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Bamaboy

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Posts posted by Bamaboy

  1. 11 hours ago, IDescribe said:

    9mm SAAMI spec is max OAL 1.169, and that's supposed to be the longest the magazine will accept. 

     

    Obviously, thr magazine isn't as fine as a thousandth of an inch, but as you ha e discovered, neither is your press or your bullets. 

     

    Generally speaking, for a standard 9mm, I wouldn't load longer than 1.160.

     

    NOW... I will also say that with the exception of FMJ, most bullet variation can be found in the nose, snd with coated bullets, the variation is even more pronounced. You are probably also using a seating anvil that seats off the ogive, which maximizes how much bullet variation shows up in OAL, but it minimizes how much variation shows up in seating depth, which is more important.  

     

    Target 1.160, and don't sweat the variation.  DO everything Sarge described to maximize consistency, but don't sweat the variation. 

     

    All that said, that is not the bullet I'd be using for 9mm major.  I wouldn't want the coating gunk in my comp, and I'd want a bullet that seats shallower.   You'd be better off with FMJ.   Lengthening OAL for a particular bullet lowers pressure, but it's not because the cartridge gets longer, it's because the bullet is seated shallower into the case.   In all probability, a typical FMJ-RN of the same weight at 1.14 seats shallower than that bullet at 1.17.

     

    You are trying to load longer to lower pressure, but you've chosen a bullet that starts you at a deficit. That bullet seats deep. 

     

    Food for thought. 

    I I loaded a 1.170 in my Glock 17 mags and it chambered. Also did it with a 1.178. Open guns perfer longer oal. And my BBI's haven't let me down yet. Follow me I'll post my chrono results when I can get to the range to chrono them

  2. 10 minutes ago, RiggerJJ said:

    Agree, would not use coated bullets for a comped gun. Nor would I use an FMJ. In both cases you will be digging crap (either coating or lead) out of the comp in quick order.

    Either CMJ or JHP...

    I have shot over 1000 rounds of coated lead through this comp and cleaned it once. All you need is a butane torch and a carbon scrapper. Takes 15 minutes. And I shoot 1" groups at 25 yards free standing. I'll keep shooting my coated lead. 

  3. 10 minutes ago, Johansson81 said:
    20 hours ago, Nevadazielmeister said:

    I am no expert, but I really like my short term experience with 3N38. It shoots really well through my comp gun and it is a breeze to clean while running Montana Gold bullets. I think I used two patches through the barrel to make it all sparkly. 

     

    One thing to think about is that even though per pound 3N38 is more expensive, the powder for each round is the least amount. So increasing that price when compared to the whole round is quite minimal. For example, with 3N38 I can get for about $28 / pound. This nets me about 777 rounds loaded at 9 grains per round. Compare that to let's say AutoComp at $18 / pound, which gets me 1,044 rounds loaded at 6.7 grains per. 3N38 is $0.036 per round and AutoComp is $0.017 per round. So a difference of only $0.018. That's less than 2 cents per round. 

     

    With the projectile at about $0.12 per round and primer at $0.028 per round, $0.02 is the smallest component to the whole mix, not including the brass, which sometimes can be less or more, depending on your source.  

    That's the kind of info I'm talking about. Where are you buying 3n38 that cheap

  4. 5 minutes ago, kneelingatlas said:

     

    These locator buttons help: https://reloadinginnovations.com/products/spill-stop-for-dillon-650-1050

     

    This picture will give you an idea of what a major charge of some popular powders under a 115gr bullet looks like:

     

    9majorsb-figure-4.thumb.jpg.e06779b7650069d648d838783144d81c.jpg.ddf4ca8afa9eff21237e1b872568c61d.jpg

     

    If you want less fill and cleaner than HS6, I recommend Silhouette, I've tried pretty much everything and I never recommend Autocomp.

    I have seen basically nothing on silhouette  how slow is it compared to HS6 or 3n38.  and im on a 124 grn bullet so not quite as much powder

     

  5. On ‎9‎/‎9‎/‎2010 at 3:47 PM, benos said:

    To improve search results, If the Topic you start is about a 9mm Major load, please include:

    9mm Major

    ... in the Topic's Title.

    be

    brian can we create a separate caliber all together for 9 major

  6. On ‎4‎/‎7‎/‎2017 at 8:39 AM, 357SIG said:

    As a rule you want to use the slowest burning powder that will make major with the case capacity you are working with. This usually will feel softer and makes the most gas to work the comp. This applies to all the open calibers but IMO more in a 9 major. The COAL is going to play a big part in how much pressure is made, seating a bullet even a slight amount deeper with the same powder charge can increase pressure a lot. There are other ways to lower the pressure spike in a particular load like the twist rate of the barrel or more free bore.

    Over many years I have seen many open guns experience things breaking and cracking from pushing the limits of what the design and material were meant to handle. The cause from these were usually able to be figured out and smiths were able to build better more reliable guns. Then came the 9 major with the rule change and the amount of guns breaking has gone way up and this is no coincidence. I think there are things that can be done to help lower the chances of breaking something in the loading of the 9 major pistols.

    what powder would you use then.  Im about to redo my load completely and not sure where to go.  I want something clean and slow but not a full case.  Im on a 650 that isn't always smooth

     

  7. On ‎8‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 10:31 AM, EEH said:

    Sarge,  let me know right after you find it !

     

    On ‎8‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 12:45 PM, Sarge said:

    Slower powder typically means more gas for a given charge. More gas means more comp effectiveness which equals flatter generally speaking.

      When you find a gunpowder that is so clean as to equal “eating off the floor” clean, please let us know. In my experience some powders are cleaner than others but none are really that clean. 

     sarge what do you recommend for the cleaner side.  and if you were buying powder today would you go 3n38 or HS6

  8. On 4/6/2017 at 9:27 PM, racer-x said:

     

    The HS-6 with 115's shot nice, really nice. Even though my heaviest loads only made 169PF. Dialed in my 115 & 124 loads with a little more powder and can't wait to work more with both at 172PF. Gotta say, at this point HS-6 with 115's is right there as the best feeling load I've tested. Primers looked nearly identical to same PF WAC loads. 

     

     

    How dirty was the hs6. I hear clean from some and dirty from others. For me CFE Pistol is extremely dirty. 

  9. 1 hour ago, xdnok said:

    For my open guns I tried 3N38 and while it was relatively soft shooting, I was having inconsistent load length due to compressed loads. HS6 was pretty good, but autocomp even better. For me choosing a load is more about how the gun reacts in recoil and the dot movement. HS6 produced more of a circular dot movement and Autocomp was by far the most consistent with small vertical dot movements in my guns.

    I've used auto comp before and don't think I was too happy. How many grains are you loading to. And what is your setup gun and bullet

  10. 2 minutes ago, open17 said:

    3N38 runs soft, flat and clean in my guns.   Downside is that it is a FULL case.   I've tried pretty

    much every powder suitable for Major 9, (and a few that were not) and I keep gravitating back

    to HS6.    

    When you say full case how many grains are you loading. And why do you keep going back to hs6

  11. 17 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

     

    You asked for a powder that would give you a flatter response -

    any slower powder will help do that.  HS6 is a little slower than

    WAC, but there are other even slower powders that are probably

    even "better".

     

    HS6 needs about 1.0 grains more than WAC (WAC runs from

    6.7- 7.5 grains) and HS6 needs one more grain, usually, but

    start low and work up slowly    :) 

    I'm thinking VV 3N38. what do y'all think

  12. 9 hours ago, Janskis said:

    I'm not sure if that is even possible with the shorty... :D

     

    But please report back if you find a solution! I'm interested to find out if it IS possible! :)

     

    My situation isn't as bad as with 3gunDQ, since I usually run several matches before cleaning my lens. Bought the RTS2 in June and cleaned it for the first time last Sunday, after a total of two big competitions and several training sessions. Minor ammo (borrowed for a new shooter) was Sellier&Bellot and major is 9,3grs of RS24

    I talked to STI sent pics of my comp and they said things look normal. They said to send pics of the build up and if it's bad they want me to send the gun in. Thinking I'm going to VV 3N38

  13. 8 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

    Load jacketed 124s softly - keep them under 138 power factor.

     

    With 147s you can go hotter. The speed of sound is 768mph - or a little over 1120 fps depending on altitude, temp, and atmospheric pressure. 1150 fps is a good target to stay under.

     

    So all of our 147gr ammo and most competition 124s are subsonic.

     

    If you don’t mind taking the can apart to chisel out gunk you can shoot poly or powdercoated bullets through it, but you don’t understand how hard it is to clean. Do it once, and you’ll buy jacketed bullets to load.

     

    If your can isn’t able to be disassembled by the user, stick to clean powders and never shoot coated bullets through it. 

    Dang. I have thousands of powder coated BBI 124's. Never thought it would be an issue

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