zeroryde
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Posts posted by zeroryde
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5 hours ago, SlvrDragon50 said:
Hopefully that is it. It is definitely the easiest fix.
By George... just got home from work and tried backing out the overtravel screw, David and you were right... it worked. The hammer drops now with the pull although when in SA I noticed that if you pull the trigger really slow and stop have way there is a chance to catch the half cock sear. It is not an issue when I just pull straight through. Thanks for reaffirming what David suggested.
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24 minutes ago, SlvrDragon50 said:
No, David is most likely correct. The sear isn't releasing the hammer which means the post-travel screw is too far out. Fitting the sear only affects the reset, not the release.
Thanks I will definitely try that out and report back. I just didn't think of that since I never adjusted it out of the box.
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I found it's actually this part
https://cajungunworks.com/product/safety-detent-right-hand-for-cz-tactical-sport/
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Hey guys, so I got my order in yesterday for the CGW race hammer with adjustable sear, T1 disco, and a bunch of other things such as the bushing and new hammer strut.
I assembled the hammer and the T1 disco on a separate hammer strut so I can have two separate assemblies so I can go back if I needed to. When I installed everything in as instructed, the hammer will not release or go down in double action or single action. It releases only when I push on the trigger bar or snap the trigger really fast.
I contacted David at CGW and he asked me of I backed the overtravel screw out of the trigger in SA yet. Which I haven't touched since I got the gun. I'm at work now so I can't try it to report back to David. But I'm wondering if any of you had to remove material from the T1 disco if that is my problem. Here are two videos of the two hammers, one stock, one with CGW and T1. Both with the adjustable sear in place.
Race hammer and t1
Stock hammer and disco
Any suggestions?
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2 hours ago, twowheels said:
zeroryde, when I change hammers alone or especially along with discos and/or safeties, I've gone to using the CGW adjustable sear. Unlike when tweaking 1911s, I am not a fan of filing safeties or sears on CZs. You don't always need to fit the sear/safety but it's just so easy to use the CGW sear and it's a beautifully made billet part. I recently did a full tune on my railed steel ambi safety compact (CZC hammer and sights, and CGW sear, springs, ext firing pin and a reasonably extensive polish) and I didn't even consider using the factory sear. It's only a few extra bucks.
Thanks for the informative replies. This is my first CZ coming from plastic guns which were easy to take apart and fiddle with. I've already done a polish and 11.5 # hammer 11 # recoil, TRS and extended firing pin. Boy is it a pain in the butt to work with taking apart and putting it back together. I appreciate the info from everyone here.
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On 4/7/2017 at 6:17 PM, IHAVEGAS said:
Dropped in a CGW competition legal hammer (10035) and a 1485-T1 disconnector. Kept original sear per conversation with CGW.
No fitting required, no issues, your mileage may vary.
Pre-travel went from about 0.13 to about 0.10. I like a bit of pre-travel so that is ok for me, I can see where others might prefer going to the extra work of installing the custom fit disco. Travel after pre travel take up went from about 0.07 to about 0.055.
None of the measurements are exact as it was hard to be precise.
As is, need to put some trigger time in & possibly tear down again and polish (got lazy), but it is not bad. Not as good as my CTS but maybe in 5000 rounds or so it will be a more fair comparison. Wondering about oem sear versus the CGW adjustable sear being part of the difference.
CGW said just the hammer is ok with the stock sear? I'm thinking of going this route as well the T1 disco with the CGW hammer, but wasn't sure if I needed the adjustable sear as well. I'm awaiting email responses from them.
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I ordered a RHT with the tek lok holes pre-drilled to go on my boss hanger. Hopefully it should just screw right on with no problems.
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Is the reduced firing pin spring czcustom or your own automatic accuracy. Still trying to determine what is the recommended spring combo to bring the DA down to at least 7lbs
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Stuart is the best. Ordered on Thursday, got mine yesterday!
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If 2011 pistols are so unreliable, why are they so popular for competition? And is the upkeep worse than running a 1911?
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Because it's a 1911 with capacity... that's all... And you know... People love 1911s... But all the 2011s I see are pretty much open class... So they're tuned to the max and then they jam every once in awhile... Which to me is too much for a duty gun.
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Don't do it! 2011s are great competition guns but not tactical guns. You don't just pull a 2011 out of the box and it's good to go. It needs gun smithing, they don't run dirty, magazines are finicky, and chambers don't like factory ammo, especially issued ammo.
It sounds good even looks good, but it is bad decision. If the gun malfunctions in a match oh well; in real life you are black stripe on a badge. Now, if you're a desk jockey get an SV!
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+1 I've seen 2011s jam during a match and all their owners clean their mags every stage.
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On 2/8/2017 at 8:38 AM, RangerTrace said:
Have they ever explained why they think they need a 12# trigger pull for 40,000 cops?
They don't trust any of us.. they think we're just Nd hazard
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Yeah, I cannot for the life of me understand the NY trigger. Your guys that shoot high scores with that setup are awesome!!
If you shoot a lot it's not that hard... Qualification is easy standard 25,15,7 yds with 50 Rd course of fire at a torso. 78 out of 100 is minimum score with each round counting as 2 pts. Lowest common denominator when you count people who got hired and never shot or care to shoot before.
My very first steel challenge match that my friend convinced me to come to, I brought my duty G19 since the only other guns I had were my G26 (off duty with the same trigger) and my HK45 which I didn't want to use up my 45s. I ended up barely finishing the last stage due to trigger finger fatigue lol. I had to switch to my weak hand.
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Hey, fellow LEO from NYC... You actually have a choice in duty? I don't even get a choice unless it's from the approved list and that's with off duty as well. Rounds have to be 15 max and all triggers are 12lbs. That's why I just stick with fantastic plastic for competition as it translates familiarity to the non comp world.
Shadow 2 and T1 disco
in CZ
Posted
Ok thanks, I did that and it works, but for some reason it still catches if were to not fully depress the trigger. like if I were slowly pulling and creeping it with a lot of trigger finger... it had a tendency to catch and act like i was trying to decock it. But if I deliberately pull the trigger in one motion it seems fine. Not sure how else to explain it or what else it would it would be to cause this. I did pay attention to the sear and the hammer hooks like you said. Seems that I have to make sure I pull the trigger in one motion to ensure I don't have premature wear. This only happens in SA too. DA is fine.