TheChef1
-
Posts
469 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by TheChef1
-
-
I doubt you be able to re-mill the gun. its already pretty deep in the slide.
-
On 5/7/2023 at 8:07 PM, BillGarlandJr said:
Interesting thing happened at a match yesterday....I installed a FS trigger on my Rival S a couple days before the match. I had taken it to the range and put a couple hundred rounds through it and everything worked perfectly. I was confident it would be safe and work just fine going forward. Fast forward to yesterday and during the final stage of the match I was shooting and about 10 rounds into the stage the trigger wouldn't reset, meaning it wouldn't release forward after a shot. I messed with it a little and it still didn't want to reset completely. Not wanting to continue with a gun that might not be safe, I stopped myself. I was able to unload and show clear, but the trigger press to drop the striker didn't feel right. I took the pistol to the safe area and upon taking a closer look, it appeared the trigger safety had somehow wedged itself inside the open area beneath the trigger. I assisted it forward, checked things for function and could not re-create the issue. Honestly, I couldn't even see how the issue came about in the first place. When the match was over I went to a public range nearby and put about 50 rounds through the gun without issue. Any of the rest of you bump into, or heard about a similar problem?
check and make sure the pin for the trigger safety is installed correctly I've had them push againt the dingus pinning them to the trigger shoe before. however its always been obvious from the start and didnt work properly at all. Maybe some debris got in there? I think id take it apart including the pin from the dingus and lube and reinstall.
That or more likely you need to file a little off the back of the dingus so it doesnt hang on the frame.
-
Use this time to upgrade to a Disdef plate. better quality and sits way lower. Disdef.com
-
On 5/3/2023 at 9:35 AM, Seoderus said:
I’m thinking about picking up a used polymer rival, it does not come with the factory holster.
Hoping to test the pistol some before investing in gear… Anybody have experience if it will fit in a comptac Glock 34 holster? Or a Glock with light holster?
i’ve use the Glock with X300 holster for a number of non-Glock pistols, but they don’t all fit. If anybody has holsters laying around and can test, I would appreciate it.
A guy on here that goes by bigtimeLarry said he’s been using his Glock 34 holster with not issues.
-
12 hours ago, ChrisDeRouen said:
I came here with a question. I just need it answered. My problem wasn't up for debate, but thanks.
He’s trying to be helpful and narrow down your problem not debate you. Canik mags don’t require tuning. Take them out of the package and use them. This issue is likely one of the things the guy you blew off asked about.
-
1 hour ago, Aiden said:
Yep definitely a lot of material to the safety. Which means you'll be fitting it regardless of what ignition you use.
But that means you'll be able to get a perfect fit to your setup.
As an added bonus, your STI sear is not modified to be fit to a safety.I went ahead and dropped it off at a gunsmith. My first time ever taking a gun to a smith but it seemed like I was going to be filing forever and I really didn’t wanna booger up a $150 safety. I appreciate all the responses. I’m glad I don’t need to change the ignition group. While an upgrade sounds nice the trigger is great so I really don’t care for the upgrade.
-
51 minutes ago, Aiden said:
I'd assume yes you need to fit the safety but as with all things 1911, "we'll see what fits when we get it".
If you're working with a first gen Trojan you might be on hard mode because they had some very questionable specs. Can confirm TheSandMan49's first gen Trojan was terrible.
Ok so I think I may have an idea what’s going on. It looks like the SVI safety has a ton of material on it. Much more than the factory and my Wilson combat high ride from a different gun. It appears there’s so much material that when the hammer is cocked and I try to push the safety on it pushes the sear up dropping the hammer. That also would explain why it’s not working in safe because the leg of the safety stays behind the sear. Here’s a bunch of videos and photos hopefully it will help explain what I mean.
this link shows the SVI safety pushing the sear up. https://imgur.com/a/8SypIPm
Pictures and videos of both safeties working and the parts on their own https://imgur.com/a/GUrDSD2
1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:See my comment above and let me know if you think I’m on to something.
2 hours ago, TheSandMan491 said:Can you post a picture of the existing safety (Prior to the SVI part), specifically the locking block, and the sear in question.
I helped a friend work on his Trojan a while back (one of the first Gen ones with the horse head rollmark) and lots of things were strangely out of spec. For example, the distance from the bottom of frame to the bottom grip bushing was way longer than any of my guns (even my 2 second Gen Trojans), and so his techwell magwell wouldn’t fit.
this Trojan also had a big Chunk of weld added onto its safety’s locking block to make it “reach” the sear to block it.
See the comment above I posted some links with pics and videos.
-
1 minute ago, Aiden said:
If you're going to be doing your own work and want it to be simple, go SVI. I've run EGW, EE (and Brazos), SVI, etc, and they all can be great. But there are minor differences between them all.
Hogrider linked a really good post that goes into nitty gritty of sear and hammer engagement. If you're feeling confident, then mixing and matching or using your preferred sear is a good option.
But if you want to just drop parts in and have a good chance of it working great, all SVI is your best bet.
Thanks ill order the SVI kit. I appreciate the help. will I likely still have to fit the safety? I noticed the right side doesnt fit into the hole in the frame so ill defiantly need to work on that.
-
12 minutes ago, Aiden said:
No. Generally speaking you have fewer headaches the less you mix and match parts in a 1911. A hammer and a sear should match each other as best they can.
Then whatever safety you use, you match it to the sear you have.
You can bag the STI ignition and safety and keep it for a backup/build/etc since it all works together.
Side question. do you think SVI is the way to go? EGW or Brazzos ive heard are good too. would it be better to go SVI since im running the safety?
-
10 minutes ago, Aiden said:
No. Generally speaking you have fewer headaches the less you mix and match parts in a 1911. A hammer and a sear should match each other as best they can.
Then whatever safety you use, you match it to the sear you have.
You can bag the STI ignition and safety and keep it for a backup/build/etc since it all works together.
ok makes sense. Yeah I was thinking to just save the STI stuff. my only thing is im lefty so NEED an ambi safety, so id run into that issue with any gun I put it in. I guess id be better off selling to a righty.
-
34 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:
IMO, if you have a 100% safe, fully functional <2# trigger, then I don't think you have a standard "drop in" fire control group. So what's it going to cost, in addition to the price of the sear, for a gunsmith to fit/tune a new sear to your existing trigger system?
I'm not sure exactly what your asking/stating.
1 hour ago, TheSandMan491 said:Can you post a picture of the existing safety (Prior to the SVI part), specifically the locking block, and the sear in question.
I helped a friend work on his Trojan a while back (one of the first Gen ones with the horse head rollmark) and lots of things were strangely out of spec. For example, the distance from the bottom of frame to the bottom grip bushing was way longer than any of my guns (even my 2 second Gen Trojans), and so his techwell magwell wouldn’t fit.
this Trojan also had a big Chunk of weld added onto its safety’s locking block to make it “reach” the sear to block it.
Yeah ill get some pictures shortly thank you.
-
19 minutes ago, Aiden said:
This sounds like a good opportunity to upgrade the rest of the ignition to SV. New hammer, new sear, all to match the trigger and safety. If you think the factory Trojan is good now, the SV will be better.
But yes, post pictures of the sear itself to rule out it being fit, and the current safety.
I just got off the phone with SVI. he said the same thing that most likely the sear was fit to the safety and not vise versa. He also recommended just getting the SVI ignition kit. Do you think I could just get the sear? $36 vs $184 makes it sound appealing to just try a sear.
-
7 hours ago, yigal said:
yes.
i always do this way in all types of guns cz and 2011/1911 guns. because if you want to replace internal parts with something else, the safety will not be damaged.
sear cost 10-20$
safety 100$-$200
Yeah the safety was $135 so I guess it’s not the end of the world if I need to fit a new sear. Although the trigger is so good right now at 1lb 10oz I’d hate to have too.
-
5 hours ago, Torf said:
No, it can be milled into the slide with the same hight as a regular slide top. This has to be done from a bar stock to mill a new slide, not on an existing slide. The depth on the cross slot on a picrail is shallower than most slide cuts for mounting plates
Then the picrail will be lower than using a EGW plate in a sight cut.
But even if it was flush with the slide it would be higher by quite a bit than a normal nice deep slide cut. Especially considering for pretty much all optics you would need to mount the optic to an adapter that can mount to a pic rail.
-
24 minutes ago, scooterj said:
Is it possible that the sear was fit to the safety and not the other way? I have seen this done before.
I suppose it’s possible as the gun is second hand but I think it has the stock Trojan internals.
1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:You may want to call SVI and see if you can exchange the safety for one with a larger engagement surface. If not, and you decide to keep it, it will need some "peening" to take up the sear to safety fit. Or in worst case, some welding to build up a new engagement surface.
https://www.brazoscustom.com/post/fitting-an-ambi-safety
HTHs
That’s a good read. Thank you. I think I’ll cave and take my first gun ever to a gunsmith. I guess I used all my luck with the SVI trigger pretty much dropping in perfectly.
-
On 4/22/2023 at 9:31 PM, Juggernaut said:
Tried to order the Zombie Pro for my Rival-S. They immediately cancelled it and said it would not work. Any recommendations for a trigger to minimize the pre-travel?
I put a sport in all my rivals including my S. You could go that route.
-
Was going to fit a brand new SVI safety I bought directly from SVI. I haven’t filed anything year. It dropped in without filing but will drop the hammer when I wiggle it and will drop the hammer when trigger is pulled in safe position. I’ve only fit one other safety before but I had to file material just to get it in and more to get it to work properly.
this one seems like there’s not enough material to start? https://imgur.com/a/Bus1uNZ
-
Too high that would be a height over bore nightmare.
-
21 minutes ago, Joe4d said:
thats the whole point people been trying to make from the git go...
why even HAVE another division, only separated by things that dont matter on the scoreboard.
Yeah in my opinion the division only makes sense if we scale back CO to be Production optics. Production rules with a dot. but first we need to fix production. 15 rounds and going back to a more strict rule set on the guns.
-
Jeff I have several Dawson and Several cheap Zenith ones. both have ran good but the dawson work with the ice magwell much better.
-
On 2/21/2023 at 1:58 PM, Racinready300ex said:
Try someone's decked out Rival with a freedom smith trigger. You're not giving up anything to a SAO gun with something like that.
but then why not just shoot CO? I have a Rival with a freedomsmith and I love it but being able to slap on a magwell and s#!tty slide racker doesn't make me want to go shoot another division.
-
11 minutes ago, telligentgunner said:
What does this do, just lighten the pull weight?
Yes and in my guns I found the plunger spring really help smooth out the pre travel. The freedomsmith trigger is the bees knees though.
-
16 hours ago, cheby said:
I do not think there is much difference.
Cool I think Ill go SVI
7 hours ago, Aiden said:I've owned both and ran both in 2011s. I used the Atlas trigger in PT Evo grips mostly. SV grips I keep it SV.
SV trigger is my favorite in terms of look. The medium curve is a good fit for me and I always end up coming back to it.
The Atlas trigger is really easy to fine tune the distance of the trigger face, but frankly I just ended up trying to match the distance of my SV curve.
I didn't have any issues with trigger bows bending but I wasn't putting really high volume though them.
I like the SVI look also im leaning towards that. thanks
-
weird im running the same setup with no problem
Milled Rival
in Canik
Posted
Yeah I use the plate from disruptivedefense for my SRO it sits much lower.