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ACree

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Posts posted by ACree

  1. I saw my share of STI's come through my business for all sorts of issues. The biggest problem that I saw with STI lately was that they have put more emphasis on production than quality. Cracked comps, cracked slides, MIM internals with visible voids, hammer and sear pin holes so badly misaligned that there was no way to ever get both hammer hooks to engage, thumb safeties with poorly cut sear engagement surfaces. STI needs to re-focus on producing a better product. With all of these small gun shops opening and producing a much better product they could stand to loose their foothold. I think we are doing ourselves a disservice when we are satisfied with it just running. 

  2. A poor job done on either scenario results in a junk barrel. However, one way gives the gunsmith the ability to have the complete barrel to properly install. I know of no gunsmith who waited to install a cone or a coned comp until after the barrel lug and hood were fit.  Its not a matter of fiddling around, it is a matter of being able to better control the variables. To each his own, but I would rather install the barrel after the coned comped was attached and not after the lug and hood fitting. 

  3. ZZT, the difference being that the new barrel will have an uncut lug and hood. So any of the errors created in the threading and attaching of the comp can still be worked out and provide for a well fit barrel. Errors introduced on the comp end cannot easily be corrected on an already cut and fit barrel. 

  4. As stated above, it will likely cost you more that just having a new comped barrel installed. You also run the risk of unforeseen problems popping up with the locking end of the barrel. If the initial turning of the barrel is not concentric, the threading  not concentric,the internal threading of the comp not concentric.... those compounding errors could cause the barrel to sit in a slightly different position thus ruining what was hopefully a well fit barrel, slide, and slide stop. I think you would be time and money, and less headache, ahead to just have a new barrel installed.

  5. The lateral dents across the two split surfaces of the lug is where the lug is slamming into the take down pin. The area forward of that dark, lateral line where the heavy contact is made is inconsequential. Take a file and gently roll the radius from the dent line down towards the barrel. Mark with a sharpie and cycle a few times and slowly progress. What you want to see is the barrel float onto the radius of the lug and come to rest on the flat before the rear radius without it slamming into the take down pin. Think of it as being in a plane and coming in for a gentles landing versus one that rattles your teeth. 

  6. Do not file the most expensive part.... I have no experience with the E2 grip - disclaimer.

     

    Start by marking the trigger bow with a sharpie and insert it backwards into the grip (bow first while you hold onto the shoe). See where is makes contact and how much contact is being made. If that fits freely, mark the top and bottom of the trigger shoe and see if it is rubbing.  Can also rub on the sides of the shoe at times. Make small adjustments until it fits and slides freely. Again, I would hate to have to make any adjustments to such an expensive part before working over the cheaper part.

  7. I have been on both sides of the 1911/2011 market as a consumer and as a past builder. I have seen some horrific work and quality standards from some big names in the custom market. It is hard for me to support STI at this time because of the problems that I have seen - poorly fitted barrels, grossly unevenly drilled hammer and sear pin holes, improper hammer hook and sear engagement, etc. There are a lot of them out there, but plenty of them are run back through a custom shop or gunsmith to have some of the issues corrected. 

  8. Stainless steel is a ferrous metal. You will be fine in having it treated by H&M. I am looking at a stainless steel gun that I sent to them to have finished and it turned out great. Non-ferrous metals are metals that do not contain iron in any appreciable amounts like aluminum, copper, lead, brass, etc.

     

    You sure that your comp is stainless steel and not titanium?

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