dfox
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Posts posted by dfox
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On 11/16/2021 at 11:27 AM, AKJD said:
The buffer retainer is removed. I believe the hammer was catching in the notch on the bottom of the TACCOM bolt which is the top bolt in the picture. I put a longer spacer in along with 4 quarters to shorten the stroke and it cycles without hanging up now.
I have the same bolt with the lock back notch. That notch catches on the hammer. When you add spacers it makes a lot more recoil. I modified my bolt and it works perfect. I will try to put a picture of it on here. You have to lay back that edge where the bolt catches. Tim at Taccom3g told me how to do it.
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Just now, dfox said:
I am running a Tacomm std ar15 bolt weighs 12.4 oz without weight using stiff spring in 1,light springs in 2&3. PF 133 with 115gr bullets.Using blue spring and no short stroke spacers. Short stroking makes it more violent. Red dot doesn’t move. Using a Taccom3g 5.25 barrel with 2 port comp and then welded sleeve to 16”. I have 4 Pcc’s with Scheels roller delay. One I shoot for steel challenge light spring only in #2 spot 105gr bullet at 75PF. With white buffer spring. Shoots like a 22LR.
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On 4/25/2022 at 2:35 PM, Racinready300ex said:
Right now I'm running 115's at 133 PF and the springs they recommend. I think it's one light one heavy, I forget exactly.
I was hoping to run into Corey before the day was over to joke with him about it. It was right between two targets and I got on the trigger just a touch early. I'm sure the RO's narced on me when he got there.
edit to add, I'm running a jp bolt which is pretty stout. I still want to play with a lighter bolt and the spring settings to see if it could be better. But a this point the season is hear and the gun is running so it'll stay like it is until winter.
I am running a Tacomm std ar15 bolt weighs 12.4 oz without weight using stiff spring in 1,light springs in 2&3. PF 133. Using blue spring and no short stroke spacers. Short stroking makes it more violent. Red dot doesn’t move. Using a Taccom3g 5.25 barrel with 2 port comp and then welded sleeve to 16”. I have 4 Pcc’s with Scheels roller delay. One I shoot for steel challenge light spring only in #2 spot 105gr bullet at 75PF. With white buffer spring. Shoots like a 22LR.
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On 11/16/2021 at 4:30 PM, LowSpeedHighDrag said:
FWIW, I had better luck with less spring strength in the buffer. Heavier spring pressure there made the recoil worse. Finally settled on 1 light and 1 strong spring.
Don’t short stroke it. It causes it to be more violent. I use a stiff spring in the 1st hole, light spring in hole 2&3. Running 115 at 1150 PF with comp shoots extremely flat the dot don’t move. My bolt weighs 11 oz no weight.
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Leave the chamber flag in during non use. The springs will take a set and it will charge easier.
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On 6/26/2021 at 5:05 PM, StripedLizard said:
Just installed the tube w/ buffer. Like the magnetic system, this system is very hard to charge. Harder actually. Will see after breaking it in how much that changes. I wish there was some sort of tool that would help me depress the rollers so that I can tune it quicker. The rollers themselves are flush with the outside of the buffer. No range time until next week unfortunately.
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On 8/9/2020 at 1:15 AM, DeChristo said:
I have it short stroked with hydraulic buffer and works well.
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
What hydraulic buffer are you using?
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On 9/6/2019 at 2:18 PM, dspring said:
A question for those who have bought the 750 already: what are your impressions and how does it compare with the 650?
I bought the xl750. And I had a xl650 I sold to get the xl 750. The xl750 does have a better priming system than the xl650. But I never really had any problems with the xl650 priming system. I do know with the new primer system on the xl750 you couldn’t set off a tube of primers like you can with the xl650. I put the snowshooze add-ons the xl650 they are on eBay and it made the 650 a lot better. The xl750 powder measure points towards the 4th station. So you can’t use a powder check and a bullet feeder on the xl750 the slide on the powder measure will hit it and you can’t move the powder measure to clear it. The xl650 you can run powder check and bullet feeder. So if you have a 650 I would just run it but if you don’t have the snowshooze upgrade I would do that. Just my opinion.
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On 8/7/2019 at 4:47 PM, DudeRick said:
I bought a 650 to get away from the 550 primer system, thats a deal breaker for me with the 750.
The xl 750 priming system works as good and better than other presses including the xl650. The priming is done on the second station not the first like the 550. I didn’t like the rotary priming on the Xl 650 because of the dumping of primers if there was a glitch. But that was just more of an inconvenience, than a major problem. If you have a 650 I wouldn’t upgrade. You might check out snowshooze on eBay he has some great add ons for the 650.
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You can run bullet feeder right after powder measure and not use a powder check.. press runs great, primer system I like a little better than the xl 650. I also bought the variable speed case feeder . I don’t see any difference in reliability over the standard. I used a Mark 7 autodrive on the xl650 and the std case feeder ran fine. On my xl650 I used snowshooze ( eBay) mods for 100.00 and it made it a great machine. I think with the snowshooze mods the xl650 is as good as the xl750 and the xl650 you can run powder check and bullet feeder with no interference. For now I am running a Hornady powder measure and everything works like I want it to. Maybe Dillion will come up with a fix or even the snowshooze guy might. Don’t think I would have upgraded from my xl650 to the xl750 knowing what I know now.
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The problem is the angle of the powder measure. When the powder slide goes back it hits the mr bullet feeder. The xl650 powder measure points in a different direction so it clears everything. The priming system works great. I’ll see about posting a picture of the problem.
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I just got a xl750 and because of the new angle of the powder measure and it’s return rod you cannot run a powder check and bullet feeder together on this machine. The new priming system is a little better but I never had a problem with the xl 650 priming system. I will have to use a different powder measure if I want to use powder check and mr bullet feeder. Maybe not a big deal but to some it maybe. Now if someone would design a tool head to use bullet feeding through a station of its own that would be ideal.
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Has anyone installed the 3rd guide rod on their evolution pro. I have one and can’t get the bracket for the bullet catch to fit back on. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Let me know how that works and where I can buy some of them.
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I have the q5 sf and bought the tti base pads +5 also bought Graham’s springs and follower and I cut off the tab for lock back and 2 out of the 3 mags only load 19 rounds and 1 of them loads 22. Any ideas I measured the base pads they are all the same? The springs are the same 11 coil. Probably something simple but I can’t figure it out?
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On 2/3/2019 at 10:23 PM, MemphisMechanic said:
Yes. That’s what I’ve been running. A tight 23(+1, if needed) to start, and 22 easily reloadable. You’ll have to grind the tab off the follower that locks the gun open but it works great otherwise.
There’s a recipe I was just turned on to by another shooter which uses a Canik mag tube and apparently gets you a reloadable 23. I haven’t tried it, and don’t know how “reloadable” it is.
23 in a Walther/TTI/Grahams320 recipe is reloadable, if you drive it in hard and distract yourself from the stage plan to ensure that it’s seated. With 22 in them the click into place as easily as a factory mag.
The recipe suggested is below. I’m 125fmj, and he hasn’t returned to answer my questions yet:
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What ammo are you using? And I would use plenty of oil during break in. I would check the ejector and extractor and look to see if there is brass marking on the ejection port. I know mine with light loaded ammo just barely clears the gun. But I have not had any jams. I haven’t had any brass particles in the gun. Something has to be damaging the brass, does the brass have marks on it?
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I have the walther q5 match sf I want a flat trigger from APEX and trigger bar but they say theirs won't work on the sf does anyone have both the plastic q5 match and the sf match? what is the difference? is it just in the trigger bar or more than that. my trigger has lots of takeup and not crisp at all.
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29 minutes ago, echotango said:
Thanks. First I sanded the texture all around and thinned sides with sandpaper on a piece of granite. Then drilled little holes all around the backstrap and roughed up the inside. After that I cleaned it up, then filled the backstrap with acraglas. Once dried I carved out the backstrap shape with a dremel until it fit her hand. Epoxy and silicon carbide and done.
Thanks
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On 3/3/2019 at 9:54 AM, echotango said:
The stock grip was huge for her. The main reduction was on the backstrap. It fits her hand much better now. Her hand goes to the red line on the last pic.
How. Did you get it that slim?
On 3/3/2019 at 9:54 AM, echotango said:The stock grip was huge for her. The main reduction was on the backstrap. It fits her hand much better now. Her hand goes to the red line on the last pic.
How did you get it that slim? It looks great.
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Does anyone know how to get rid of the take up on the trigger . Can you put a set screw at the top of the trigger to restrict travel? And if so how do you fix the trigger safety to work and what other problems will you run in to it.
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On 2/27/2019 at 8:40 AM, Kletus said:
I just couldn't get over how crisp the trigger on my original two PPQ's are and how mushy my SF trigger is. I finally decided to yank the firing mechanism (left the trigger and trigger bar) out of my 4" PPQ and stuck it into my SF. Night and day difference! Now I'm back to the light trigger with no creep that I love from my other PPQ's. I can't seem to find my trigger pull gauge, but it feels about like my P320 with Gray Guns trigger, but once you hit the wall on the SF the break is extremely crisp with no creep at all. For some reason I did have some interference between the slide and the right side of the plastic housing that holds the firing mechanism. Just a few swipes with a small file and it's gone. Turns out the lighter trigger return spring was a spring from Lodemans (sp) that was in an original PPQ 3.5 lb trigger thread. It wasn't a Springco spring as I had said before. Just a replacement trigger return spring and the FB block spring is left standard and you end up with a better trigger than on the P320 X5 with a Gray Guns kit. That's pretty impressive.
Once I swapped out the trigger parts, I didn't have quite as much issue with the trigger safety catching early as I did with the original parts. While I had the gun apart, I did just a little file work to the back of the tab on the trigger safety and now it seems to be completely reliable with the lighter spring. The trigger safety is still fully functional.
I'm carrying the X5 and the SF to the range today to get the red dots sighted in and to shoot them side by side. I typically shoot a normal PPQ with small grips installed. Once I get home from the range today I plan to do a grip reduction to remove some of the width and rear palm swell on the SF and then give the grip insert an epoxy/silicon carbide treatment.
I was honestly leaning more towards the x5 due to the trigger... but now that I have that sorted out I'm pretty excited to see if I can get the grip on the SF to fit me right.
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What 13# spring and guide rod can I use in the walther q5 match steel frame gun?
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On 2/6/2019 at 6:15 PM, Prov1x said:
Walther...lol. The glock gen 3 flat wire recoil springs work with the SF guide rod.
The gen3 flat wire recoil spring doesn’t fit the sf guide rod I tried it
My PCC is randomly going into burst mode of 2 or 3 rounds......anyone know the fix?
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
Try 2 new trigger pins I had the same thing happen and with the new trigger pins mine did that so I tried regular trigger pins and it worked fine.