Benevolence
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Posts posted by Benevolence
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8 hours ago, yigal said:
can u post few pic. of this?
Sure, attached. The lighting and shadows make it look a lot deeper than it is; I’d guess it’s about 0.005” deep at most, and less than that for the majority of it. Which isn’t great all though. I’ll post pictures after I touch it up with the mill
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I think the original galling that I caused was forcing the two together without having ground off enough material from the bottom of the slide when I was performing the lapping step. It galled at the top face of the frame (under the rails) and on the lowermost underside of the slide. I fixed it but combining the remnants of that damage and the heat distortion caused it to resurface I believe. Totally accept the s#!tty assembly, may have to spend $500 for a new frame/slide to restart but I’ll try taking just a few thousands of an inch off and see if it cleans up the damage without making it a tambourine.
Thanks all for the input.
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Wondering what the best route I should do for this. The gun has been a project gun I’ve been building from oversized parts. I have access to mill, lathe, and welding equipment (mig, tig, laser, etc.). Long story short, I galled it a bit when lapping the frame-slide together but got it to work (some galling damage remained). I had a buddy PVD coat it with CrN but I believe the temperatures distorted it, along with the hard CrN perhaps cracking and regalling it. I’m planning on milling (with fresh 3/32” carbide endmill) in the rail to just touch it up but I’m a bit concerned of making it sloppy loose. I could also tig/mig it to build the rails up and remill them to size but I’m worried about cracking or distorting the rest of the frame. Any advice?
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Naval jelly (home depot) removes rust (and bluing!!!). You can do a hot bluing with the recipe below. Adjust quantities and keep ratios. I’ve done it before and it worked very well, just use a stainless bowl over an outdoor stove and keep aluminum away. Use proper personal protection equipment to stay safe (fumes, heat, eye hazard). The lye (sodium hydroxide) heats up a lot when you add it in so do it slowly. Add DI water as needed to keep boiling temperature around 290F. Have a boiling container of water nearby to rinse the part in and get ALL of the salts off the part. After use, the bluing mixture is reusable but solidified into a weird solid/goop until reheated again. You can get the lye as drain cleaner and potassium/ammonium nitrate as stump remover at a hardware store
“5 pounds lye
2 1/2 pounds ammonium nitrate
per gallon of water
working temperature 285-295 degrees, soak 15-40 minutes depending on the hardness of the steel.
Have lots of ventilation when adding the ammonium nitrate as considerable ammonia fumes result” -
Alright, thanks for the input. I may try to do a playdough form on my gun then make an epoxy mold, and ‘cast’ an epoxy part in the mold.
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What is that grip addon for the weak-hand side of the 2011 in the picture and where can I get one?
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Wish there was a way to do this and be Production/SSP compliant.
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Wanting to use the gun for USPSA Production and IDPA SSP. I think having specific rules is fine but having "follow the spirit of the game" is not a valid answer for creating and enforcing unwritten rules.
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In the USPSA book 21.1 it says “Internal modifications which do not conflict with other clauses of this appendix are ALLOWED”. Can I remove some frame material, fill a channel near the guide rod with a tungsten/lead/steel weight (up to 27.9oz (M&p9 OFM) + 4oz) to get some nose weight? How about without doing internal frame removal? Is the answer any different for IDPA?
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Thanks all, very much appreciated! I’ll keep this in mind for a future build. I’ll work on the Indian instead of the arrow for a bit in the mean time!
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Hi all,
I built a 2011 in 40sw for limited uspsa and was wanting to make a 9mm upper I could use for major open and some cheaper plinking (with reduced recoil spring).
I was looking for a 6” slide and 6”+threading barrel that I could use; can’t find the latter. Also not sure if I could do any of those funky barrels that have a rib in the front sight area. Planning to put a Cmore mounted off the frame (90 or regular?)
I am looking for part suggestions for slide, barrel, compensator, and slide/barrel/comp profiles to match somewhat decently. Is a 6” slide a bad idea? Interested in porting if it would help in addition to a compensator but it may take me out of some 3 gun divisions so not sure.
Thanks!
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Thanks, I will look into that! I think I may have worn through the top strap shield so I need to send it in but that will give me some time to noodle on it. Thanks again.
Ive shot a coupe hundred rounds of hot stuff already
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I’m just getting into competition shooting but I have a 329PD for backpacking (my only revolver) and was thinking maybe it could be decent for competition if loaded with 240gr plated FN and trail boss to get just above major power factor (~700ft/s)? I don’t think the internals would be as nice as a 627/625 but perhaps a good into to revo?
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I would be surprised if they wore off after just a couple thousand rounds. Talking to a guy that does these coatings for multiple industries, often times people think the coating is wearing off but it's just metal being deposited onto them and covering them. That said, they are only ~5-10 microns thick (0.0002-0.0005").
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I would think you could just mill in ~0.025" deep slots in it. Just don't thin the area where the slide rail ends. No way would I weld on more material; you'd screw up the bushing hole diameter and front rails with distortion.
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Could you measure the width of the magazines and compare? I don't believe overtravel would be an issue as the mag release should be between the back of the trigger and front of the mag. You may try gradually forcing the magazine sides in if they are indeed rubbing (mark w/ a sharpie and insert and pull trigger some to see where it's rubbing).
FWIW I'd get a second opinion as I've only built one 2011.
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Been using 3 of them in my 2011 I'm building. I think on the 21st round (140mm/40sw), they get 'bound up' or something where there's no spring "tension" pushing the rounds up. If I take that round out (22 or 21st?) then it seems to do pretty good.
I've had a few where the round just "thumps" into the feedramp and doesn't go up unless forced but that may be more to do with the gun. Overall they seem to be working pretty good; I've got pictures of the follower sitting in the feed lips in here:
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As tyler2you alluded to, you typically remove material from the frame on the sides of the rails, and remove material from the bottom of the slide to get a fit. If the vertical dimension of the rails don't fit, you're going to have to find a way to remove material from your existing fit slide or create a way to take off several locations on the frame (not really feasible without a special cutter on a mill). You're also going to run into issues with the barrel lugs & link length; you don't modify the frame to fit the barrel/link, you do it the other way around.
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4 minutes ago, Bkreutz said:
I guess that might be a problem if you shoot the gun dry, I plan for never doing that in a stage, if I run it dry my stage plan is really screwed up.
Perhaps I'm wrong and just unnecessarily worrying/complaining. I'll try it as is and see how it goes. I am quite new to this sport shooting thing.
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18 minutes ago, Bkreutz said:
I'm not sure what you're worried about. The pistol is not designed to work with empty mags. If there is a problem when the mags are loaded then some tuning is in order. I use MBX mags exclusively and have not had to do any tuning.
I'm concerned about the slide wearing the follower prematurely; there's moderate marks on the followers from just a handful of cycles. I'd rather not have the slide digging into the follower every time, I may put the tiniest radius on the bottom of the slide. The follower getting dragged forward after the last round may cause issues with dropping the mag as well.
@itzjere, thanks for the recommendation. I'll start with small changes and work slowly.
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Hi all,
I'm building a 2011 based on a CK frame, STI grip, Fusion firearms slide and Kart barrel. So far it's been a lot of fun and quite the learning experience; this is my first 1911 style gun. I just put in the followers and they seem to be tilting to the side, pointing upwards too much(?), and catching on the slide when in the gun and pushing forward. MBX Extreme tubes, springs, and G25 followers; all non-slide stop.
I was planning to do the things mentioned in these two videos; is this an okay plan? Mostly just dremeling the follower and bending the springs (though it doesn't seem to do all that much, the little that I've tried on the 3rd mag).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1EclEpJc-g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLC8KEqY9Nc
From looking around, mag tuning seems to be something inherent with the 2011's. I'm mostly concerned with how the follower seems to be sitting pretty high up and forward in the mag; not sure how to correct for this.
Thanks for any advice.
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Would it be unreasonable to ask the store for a configuration of the slide/frame that is oversized and not having the ten thou clearance in those areas? Perhaps I'm making a big deal out of it though.
Thanks for the advice though; I hadn't heard the differences between where to remove material for caspian vs. STI frames.
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My understanding was that the point of getting oversized parts and 'hand' fitting them was to get near exact dimensions. Such as the 'groove' on the slide matches the rail on the frame, and vice versa; in both vertical and horizontal dimensions.
If I take 0.004" off the bottom of the slide, then the top of the frame will still be 0.011" below the 'top' dimension of the slide. The horizontal 0.755/0.760" is fine because it is oversized in that dimension and I can remove material to fit. The horizontal 0.632/0.622" is undersized 0.010" and I cannot make up for it by taking material off. Yes, the 0.755" feature will be taking up the horizontal slop (ie; the frame rails will be controlling, not the slide 'rail's), and the 0.115" vertical feature will be taking up the vertical slop.
Is it okay to want a good fit....? Or do I just get it so it works? I was hoping for a good fit.
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Hi guys, newby here. Decided I should build my first 1911/2011. I got my slide and frame in (not 80%) for the build and realized that the dimensions will make me have ~0.010" slop in the horizontal and vertical directions for the slide:frame fit. Black dimensions are 'nominal' from Kuhnhausen's book and red dimensions are actual. I know the barrel:slide fit is more important, but this seems like a fair bit. Just hoping for a sanity check on this; I already emailed the manufacturer/vendors and they seem like good folk, so I'm hoping to get it resolved.
Another thing is that I think I screwed up on the grip safety I should have gotten; it's a Wilson Combat high rise 298B on a CK frame.
Factory 9mm ammo recommendation for compensator
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
Having a tight fit on the compensator diameter will help redirect gasses up rather than just blasting by and out the front. And light as others have said