MikeBurgess
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Posts posted by MikeBurgess
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Slide Milling
in CZ
1 hour ago, bootcamp said:I would have put a plate on it. At least they put some lugs (halfassed) on it. That's important if you ask me.
I'm not convinced lugs do much of anything, what I want is the front of the dot to be incontact with the front of the cut that gives a much larger bearing surface for the recoil to act on the dot.
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8 minutes ago, CHA-LEE said:
BUT...... Two different guns having the EXACT SAME ISSUE usually = Human Induced problem. Such as your thumb(s) are jamming into the side of the slide as you shoot. This is easily verified by blacking out the side of the slide with a Sharpie Marker then shoot some drills and see if any marker is transferring to your thumb(s).
This,
It can't be overemphasized enough how much the human affects how a gun runs.
I have tested guns side by side with someone and been unable to generate the same malfunction they are getting with the only change being the person holding it.
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Slide Milling
in CZ
RMR pattern has the screws too far apart to not look like that without a plate or insert, what you show is the norm.
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Converting from 38 to 9 in most cases is just having a new barrel fit and adjusting the extractor. I have converted most of the local 38 shooters guns to 9 as they get tired of picking up brass.
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1 hour ago, Cam73 said:
That plate looks great, very clean!I came up with similar numbers and wasn’t comfortable with the .020-.025” side clearance.
Stealth arms did offer a direct mount rmr slide at about half the price of the SV unit. Didn’t see an option to get it without serrations, but maybe in the future the demand will be strong enough for a different manufacturer to step up.I talked to someone that had said they would sell a bald version of that slide if asked, I assume you would have to call them
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19 hours ago, Cam73 said:
The slide already being tri-topped might make things interesting.
For reference, I used one of the “extra thick” tri-topped Warwick slides (Shooter’s was selling them awhile back) milled it for an AOS plate (rmr) and a good part of the optic mounting screw holes on the underside of the plate are exposed when installed. That said, the slide has .030” deep panel cuts in that area.
It's the panel cuts or serrations that are the problem.
The tri-top shouldn.t be a problem as the corner should be very close to where the curved top to side corner was.
Slides are typically between .915 and .930 wide RMR mounting holes are .74 appart #6 screw is .138 so outside of threads is .878 I would happily mill threads on a slide .900 or wider without serrations.
when working on slides with serrations I ended up making custom plates to maintain a low profile and clean look.
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Welding a barrel hood up is a perfectly acceptable fix.
I built a 9 Major open gun with a ebay RIA barrel with welded and refit the hood and feet, that gun ran many thousands of rounds without issue and that barrel is still running fine now that that old gun has been converted to an LO blaster.
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If your starting with a bald slide it should be Just wide enough to direct mill the RMR pattern and skip the plat all together.
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I really like the 627 v comp so I would probably build a 929 with a similar barrel profile to that.
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I didn't read every response so this may have been mentioned already.
When tuning sear springs for action shooting AKA shooting fast sometimes. It is important to keep the sear and disconector legs in balance. If you have comparatively too much reset pressure having doubles and or drop to half cock can happen when shooting close targets fast. Basically having too much reset pressure on the trigger produces a forced reset when we relax our hands to shoot fast and the slide closing bumps the trigger back into our finger dropping the hammer, hard enough bump and it doubles lighter bump and drop to half cock.
I have fixed this issue for a couple people myself included. In most cases the final trigger weight was lower than when the issue was happening.
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one of may favorite things to watch when ROing is when a WSB allows a shooter to put their hands wherever and someone decides that hovering just off the grip like they never ever practice is the key to a killer run. I have seen this many times and more often than not they end up with a horrible grip and end up regretting it, but it is fun to watch
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I layout my dot pockets from the back of the slide. i leave just enough material to have the pocket have a back lip
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What I have done is use a pin or the solid end of a drill bit that matches the ramp radius to carefully tap the displaced metal back where it came from, on the square side I just use the flat face of a clean hammer.
Little taps and take it slow , it doesn't take much time at all.
That said if the cylinder is really bad you can buy a new one from smith. Last one I bought was under $100 and I've been able to swap them in successfully by using the old ejector in the new cylinder. Just need to double check timing and clearances
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Hopner Schumann speed sec 5 I belive
They are German I belive double alpha imported them prior to their race master line. My wife uses one and it's probably the most forgiving race holster, it's almost impossible to have it hangup on a draw,
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4 hours ago, motosapiens said:
i prefer picking up brass to picking up slide fragments, lol.
everyone near me shoots 38sc.
They do, its surprising how much monkey see monkey do is involved in this (and most other) sports.
I put a 38 barrel and comp together in one of my guns for a friend to try before he ordered another Infinity to see if it made enough difference to make picking up brass worth it, he decided no 9mm was just fine.
Around here there is 1 guy regularly and he's already asking about a new barrel.
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Just now, Maximis228 said:
Wow... that guy was lucky...
very, he even successfully argued for 1 less FTSA because the barrel was clear so by definition he shot at the target
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2 hours ago, Maximis228 said:
I have quite an interesting photo collection of broken open guns.
we had a guy last weekend fire a round after a squib with his open gun. the spontaneous disassembly was impressive. luckily it was limited to the gun and he swapped to his backup and finished the match.
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3 hours ago, VU2AKILL said:
Any experience with 38sc? Think it is easier on stuff? Roughly same powder charge but less pressure hypothetically should be kinder to parts but maybe it is the same.
not really nobody around me shoot 38, we all hate picking up brass
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1 hour ago, ddc said:
So I'm just getting into 2011's after years of sitting on the sidelines so I don't know squat...
But my understanding was that EGW was one of the suppliers of known quality parts.
Are you guys saying they don't know what they're doing as far as struts are concerned?
I guess I find that rather curious...
The tip of the titanium ones I have used is not shaped very well to fit the dimple in the top of the mainspring cap, likely they assume the smith will hand file it to a shape they are happy with, but if its not a real world performance enhancement the time spent doing it is wasted.
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5 minutes ago, RJH said:
I agree with @MikeBurgess, another way of saying it is about half as long as a limited optics gun
but the optic will last longer so there is that
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What I tell people is 9 major slides have a half life of about 25,000 rounds as in half of them will crack in by 25K some go way longer some go way shorter.
Some of this is shooter induced, run 185pf because you think its flatter or whatever your likely to not last as long as someone that runs 167 pf.
Some of this is builder induced. the better parts are fit the longer they are likely to last.
Some of this is luck of the draw.
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20 hours ago, donnyglock said:
Mike,
I really don’t know if they flex much at all. What I will say is EGW’s shape at the bottom of the strut is far less than ideal. It tends to get out of the cup at the top of the plunger and bind on the sides. Causing stress and ultimately a good possibility of failure. Extreme and others have a far better shape. Yes you can reshape it…etc but why bother with the extra time. Just buy one ready to go.
I’ve never had a guy out running his gun and a titanium strut was the answer. Lol.I agree the shape of the EGW one is horrible, I haven't been building long enough to see one fail but I like to learn from others that have.
My gripe was those saying they flex and that eats main spring energy, but when you stack springs the second spring doesn't eat the frist springs energy they both release their stored energy together, every explanation I have seen is someone explaining it as if the strut was un-stressed prior to the the sear releasing, and that drives me nuts.
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I get that they are unnecessary, and if Donnyglock says they break more that's enough for me. But I would love for someone to explain how a flexible strut would negatively affect hammer velocity?
Most seem to use an explanation that only works if we assume the strut is unloaded prior to the sear being released but that is not the case
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I agree if your going to build a 2011 start with a fully machined frame and build it with the parts you want all the way through, there is really no cheep way to build one so you may as well get what you really want. If you want into the 2011 world on a budget the Prodigy is likely the lowest cost option.
One thing on the 80% frame, having someone that's not you complete one for you means they need to have an 07 FFL (manufacturer)
Drift Sig rear sight
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Brass or aluminum punch, heat the sight up with a heat gun to about 300 degrees to kill any locktite loosen the set screw if it has one, hold the slide in a vise (pad the jaws so you don't mess up the finish drive rer sight in the direction you want to move the bullet impact, not sure what the sight radius is on a 226 but likely need to move sight about .025" for that correction.
all that said, are you 100% sure its the gun?
do other good shooters get the same impact error you are?
is the sight currently visibly off center to the left?