ryridesmotox
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Posts posted by ryridesmotox
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No. And I didn't say your advice was dangerous, I was merely being a smartass about your inability to get a simple aspect of your gun to work properly. But don't come in and muddy the waters with some asinine advice about a Henning firing pin being better. I've tried one in 3 different guns, At no point did it work better than a stock pin. It works far worse. Many others have tried them and gone back to a tanfo pin with much more reliable ignition. But hey, order a 20# wolf spring for that hammer... You're going to need it dude.
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Archer... Before you fix someone's gun over the internet... Did you get that safety working yet?
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44 minutes ago, lowball020 said:
Thank You!!!
Putting the Stock FP in, going with the 15# Hammer Spring. - to help with the freedom reliability.
I have another ammo source that loads his for appx 170pf and it came out of mine at 165.4pf and 167.1pf in two separate 4 round averages. He's going to be my source once the freedom is gone.
If you ever get chrono'd that's not enough cushion. You may ask him to reload them a bit hotter. And confirm he is using a softer primer. And seats them well
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I think your problems are primarily firing pin and primer related. I've heard, unconfirmed, that FM uses com-block primers from wolf rebranded as 'Xtreme primers"... Again, unconfirmed. Which, can be hit or miss as far as ease of ignition. Start with those two areas. By all means, run them through for practice or whatever. But switch to a known lighter primer like CCI, federal, or Winchester.
As long as you aren't running a 10lbs spring, it should light off most garbage primers with a 12lbs in single action. I've not had a single failure to ignite in single action with my gun setup the way it is... Even with a 12lbs spring. Some of my factory ammo wouldn't go off in the first hit of double action. So I went with a heavier 14lbs spring. But it really didn't help because the factory primers weren't seated properly.
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In this order... Put original firing pin in. Hammer springs won't effect pull weight in single action as much as double, run a stock spring. Plunk test the ammo to make sure it spins and falls freely from the chamber after putting a round in the chamber and tappin it with your finger, if it doesnt, ream the chamber.
Lastly, freedom uses rather hard primers, from my seperience. I've seen it not ignited by glocks... Which is ridiculous. Try some Winchester white box. Those primers are much lighter than FM's xtreme primers.
That's where I'd start anyways.
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5 hours ago, SCTaylor said:
I bet they are metalform magazines. Can you post a pic of the mags and possibly w/ out the base pad?
Only pic I have at the moment. They look like metalforms, but I'm not sure. I emailed brownells a while back and they didn't give me a concrete answer either way about extensions. The 2 on the top are Sig 8 rounders, the other one is a CMC 10 rounder.
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Thanks for that useless sarcasm. But I'm sure there are better bases than Dawson's.
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Thank God for saint memphis, without whose trials and tribulations, no one would be able to tune a tanfo unless they looked in this section and ran a search. What would we do without you
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5 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Okay. One last time: I load on a 650, and I'm not changing that for at least two years. Nor spending hours a week hand-priming.
The question all along was "what will this gun need to fire the ammo I currently load, so that it will eat anybody's reloads?"
Return to stock springs, with a polish job. That was also recommended by someone until certain posts were removed.
@mfs, go through the dozens of pages where people have answered questions a dozen times... Not talking about Taylor's, this thread is actually quite valuable for someone considering modifying the gun. The problem is, people do things wrong and then have a problem. Then are offered sound advice, which is ignored.
ETA: under no circumstance am I saying I am the one offering this advice all the time. Quite the contrary really. Usually I come in posting offensive memes and offering a sarcastic retort
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15 minutes ago, johnbu said:
Lol. yeah, it can be done. But finding the offending dimension that is out can be a chore. and fixing them is beyond most people's tool and skill set.
For mine, it was less about finding the one offending part, and more about putting everything in the same spec, piece by piece... But then, I've also assembled 1911s from bare frames and 80%ers so the tedious nature doesn't bother me so much.
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2 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Not every piece of advice. Just the ones that wanted me to run a gun that won't chew up rusty soviet-bloc primers. Because they did my thinking for me, and decided that lightweight triggers are a thing I need.
When people spoon fed you the answer 5 different times, no one was trying to get your a 1lbs break. There were 5 people telling you that you the same thing that you ignored...
Deep son... Seat then deep
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Just now, johnbu said:
Actually.... you guys are BOTH right.
Tolerance stacks are a problem and each machinist seems to do each gun randomly just a weeeeee bit different.
Polishing helps fix those issues, mostly. But some guns with identical prepping just do not ever respond to the same level. frustrating.
Just requires the proper amount of fitting to recover the stacking. If one doesn't want to or feel comfortable doing it, then the optimal setup will be slightly out of reach. I can, and have accomplished the exact same trigger in 2 different stock 2s that started out much differently from factory. One pulled 10lbs, the other would max out my 12lbs Lyman
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Good, I couldn't stand another 10 page thread about how your gun won't function While ignoring every piece of sound advice.
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You asked, don't say go fish if you don't like the answer... That's the reason, stoning and polishing enough on the hammer and sear interaction points are important.
If you'd done any amount of 1911 trigger jobs, the springs are rarely changed out, yet they have really light, crisp triggers because of hammer and sear engagement. Unless someone wants a like, sub 16 ounce break.
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51 minutes ago, B_RAD said:
My SA (Lim Pro) is the exact same. I have the same springs you have and have done the same work as you.
I don't know how people are getting a lower SA?
Polish job
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So much relies on how well you seat the primers when you go super light.
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I just got a Sig Nitron with rail in 45. Got it in trade for a tanfo stock2 plus some goodies and cash. Looking to maybe do single stack with it. It came with a pile of Sig mags and I picked up a few more on black Friday sales form sig. Came with a Dawson Ice magwell (3 side). What extended pads do you guys like for these? My only experience is in the older welded bottoms so these are my first interchangeable basepads. On reloads the stock Sig pads don't sick out far enough with the Dawson well, I find myself not seating them all the way without a second smack. They are all factory SIG mags. And they all feed fine when I get em seated.
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@IHAVEGAS Have you called ghost? That needs to be fixed by them If it's a manufacturer's fault
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I get that. But I'm just wondering how you break them. In pretty rough with my shit. Mine look fine. Unless they get abused. And plenty of people abuse their shit.
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1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said:
I really like the retention, the mag bodies are not stout enough for a klutz like me.
Did you run over then with a truck? They are mag pouches. I don't treat mine all that nicely and they hold up fine.
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I was thinking after putting it back together and dry firing... You're going to get that friction one way or the other. If you file down the bar where it contacts the slide, it will contact the under side of the sear cage. I use aeroshell on the slide rails and it seems to have cut down on it considerably. I would recommend trying that on the slide rails and the trigger bar. That way one gets about the least amount of friction possible.
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2 hours ago, IronArcher said:
https://vimeo.com/202294925
Not on mine.The movement is so small on mine that it would barely show up in video.
I also figured out what I actually think it is. I too my gun down, seems like it is the trigger bar. If you open the gun up you can see the horns of the bar. It rides under the slide. That's probably what's causing the upwards movement. The plunger spring is pushing up on the trigger bar so as to make the disco work properly. The sear, and sear cage seem to be clear of the slide.
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No idea... If I had to guess I'd say the sear. I don't have a camera small enough to fit in there and record it... And my dick doesn't take video. Sooooooo just a guess at this point.
Light Primer Strike Diagnosis....... (SORRY)
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted
I'm not going to go back n forth with you about this. I have much better stuff to do with my time. I have 2 guns that both run better with lighter springs on any day of the week. Of the last 4 I tuned, all got tested with the 2 Henning pins I have, none of them ran as well as a tanfo pin. You're gun has issues that need to be solved. After you do, let us know how you did it, but until then, you need to stop muddying the waters with false info.
Am I the end all be all for tanfos, hell no. But both of my guns run.
Anyways, I'm done with this for the night.