Leozinho
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Posts posted by Leozinho
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On 4/11/2023 at 5:52 PM, WildPete said:
Atibal CRD 3 or 6 MOA. Military discount and lifetime warranty. Just make sure you keep the sight tool that comes with
Never heard of it but will check it out. Thanks.
On 4/11/2023 at 1:35 PM, VeilAndrew said:I've picked up a handful of DeltaPoint Pros at/under $300 on the used market. If you can find the Holosuns cheaper than that (I've gotten a few 407c's for under $220), then go with the Holla-sun, but DPPs are pretty great. The adjustment button is a little annoying, but the window is nice and large.
I like the idea of a Leopold for under $300. Besides classifieds here, where are you finding optics used online. Are there buy/sell groups on FB? Or are you just looking on other gun forums?
On 4/11/2023 at 5:52 PM, WildPete said:Atibal CRD 3 or 6 MOA. Military discount and lifetime warranty. Just make sure you keep the sight tool that comes with it.
On 4/12/2023 at 7:32 AM, OPENB said:Palmetto has an exclusive Holosun, the 407A. The body and lens is the same as the 407/507C, except it doesn't have the solar panels on top. The dot is a 3moa in red. It sells out quickly, but when they have them they are $179. I put one on a co-worker's gun, and compared it to my 407C-GR. Dot is bright enough for a sunny day on a CO gun. I'd get this if I needed a cheap "good enough" dot.
Good suggestion. Submitted a Notify Me when back in stock.
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Is there a consensus on a budget RDS for dipping the toe into CO? I'd prefer a ~6 moa dot but read good things about Holosun's 8 moa circle, though I think it might be discontinued. Having never shot a dot on a pistol, I would think the bigger the window the better.
Or is the answer find a used SRO?
I rarely get to shoot anymore and might be a while before I get to get back into USPSA, so not keen on spending a lot. But a dot would be fun to play around with on the occasional range trip.
Thanks.
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I'm thinking of picking up a Canik TP9SFX since they are so cheap and look like fun, and then going down the modification road. Mods might include tungsten guide rod, tungsten in backstrap, brass mag basepads, etc.
Is is really established that they heavier weight is a positive? The effects on recoil are real and there's the 'satisfaction' of fast splits, but another axiom is splits don't matter as much as transitions, etc.
When is it too heavy?
(Mods, wasn't exactly sure where to post this. Move as appropriate.)
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On 2/23/2020 at 4:03 PM, ramnj said:
I put the Apex barrel in mine and the Apex flat trigger. use it in USPSA CO.
VERY accurate!
On 2/23/2020 at 8:15 PM, bigfish said:I have a kkm barrel that shoots good with lighter bullets. I have a apex barrel that shoots good with everything
On 2/23/2020 at 12:33 PM, NoSteel said:Apex barrel is the way to go!!.
On 2/23/2020 at 8:42 AM, saab said:I have both the first and second generation M & P pros.
An Apex barrel, in both my pistols, will shoot inch and a half groups all day long if you do your part.
Thanks everyone. For those Apex barrel recommendations-
Semi-Drop fit, or g.unsmith fit? -
I have a M&P Pro in 9mm that I purchased new sometime around 2009-2010, just about the time folks were discovering some were wildly inaccurate. IIRC mine wasn’t horrible, but not great. Folks were sending them back to S&W but not reporting much improvement. Apex and others were going to provide an aftermarket fix but not sure if that game to fruition. Seems like it didn’t.
I jumped on the CZ bandwagon early and put it aside.
I may get it back out and see how accurate it is.
Did S&W ever come up with a remedy? Do they warranty it? If so, how inaccurate does it have to be before they will fix it? (it’s a 10 year old gun, I wouldn’t be mad if S&W says I waited too long)
Is there an aftermarket barrel that fixes the problem?
thanks.
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Apologies if this has been covered -
i can pick up a P09 pretty cheap. I want to keep it basic and budget.
With a just a $88 CGW hammer and a competition spring set and basic polishing, what type of trigger pull weights can I expect in DA and SA? I don’t want to go for the full CGW kit, at least at first.
Thanks.
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Anyone tried this one? http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XAIMBCGN3LW $99 sale price for a low mass bolt carrier group.
I assume it was manufactured for the 'shaving ounces off my AR" club and not the "let's see if I can get my AR to shoot softer' club (I'm in the latter) but that shouldn't matter, right?
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I found a good deal on a Velocity 3# on another forum's classified section, so that's what I got. It will be a while before I get to wring it out.
I might try the tuning trick above on a cheap mil-spec trigger I have laying around for a different AR.
Thanks all.
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What a good value trigger?
This is not for a top-of-the-line build, so I'd like to keep the cost down. Therefore I've ruled out the Geiselles and the drop-in units (unless I found a smoking deal. Right now the best I've seen is a Velocity 3lb for $130.) I'd like to spend less, but would buy that if its the best value.
Other option is the ALG Defense enhanced trigger, but I have a feeling it's just a glorified mil-spec trigger. Plus, a quick search shows other companies are offering 'enhanced' mil-spec type triggers at lower prices.
Not sure what else is out there. The AR aftermarket has exploded in the last few years so I'm not in tune with all the available options. Let me know what else I should consider.
Thanks.
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One Shot works fine when used as directed and following the directions. Most people who have trouble don't. Make sure after you spray the cases to let them sit for about a minute to allow the propellent to evaporate. I have loaded literally tens of thousand rifle cases with One Shot and have never had a stuck case.
Your load method looks good. Use it and see where it gets you. It should load very good ammo for you but if you find a need to change something you can. I do basically the same with some different tools. I use the standard Hornady dies, as those were all that was available when we started shooting these back in 2008. They load very accurate ammo. All i did was add a micrometer stem to the seater. Those dies you have should work very well.
No need to sort by weight with either bullet or case. A primer pocket uniformer will clean the pocket as well so with one step it will clean and uniform. I used to deburr the flash holes and then I did some testing and found no difference in performance so I stopped. Just more time to put towards something useful.
You can make a dummy round with a partially sized case neck and seat a bullet a little long and put it in the chamber and close the bolt. If it doesn't feel like it's taking some effort to close the bolt then you might need to load it longer as you are basically seating the bullet with the lands. Sometimes you need to put some black magic marker on the bullet to see if it's hitting the lands but most times you can see the marks. Extract the case and then measure it. Having a comparator is nice so you can measure from the ogive which is what will first be hitting the lands. This way you know the exact measurement. I load my Creedmoor 140 AMAX about .020" off the lands, as i do all my AMAX bullets in other calibers, but factory length also shoots very well when I shoot factory ammo in matches. If you didn't want to mess with OAL just yet then just use the factory length.
Rob,
Thanks for the reply. That is a lot of knowledge that is a tremendous help to me. I appreciate it.
Out of curiosity, how many reloadings are you getting from a case, and what are you looking for to let you know when it's time to discard a case? I doubt I'll be pushing the Amax's at the highest velocities.
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My Creedmoor was good with book OALs. Work up a powder load, then play with oal if you feel like it.
What bullet do you plan on using?
I have 120 gr and 140 gr Amax to start. I've read that the 140's are the best, but I picked up the 120's at a gun show just for the heck of it.
I have one pound of Accurate 4350 to start (I know it's not as popular as H4350, but I can't find H4350).
If the brass were fired in the rifle, I would skip the full length resizing, and just move the shoulder back 5 or 10 thousandths. Full length sizing works the brass too much.
Well, already have my dies, which are FL. So I'm pretty much set there anyway.
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What are the basic steps of reloading for precision rifle? In other words, I'm not looking for the elaborate voodoo that benchrest or extreme precision shooters do when reloading. Just the basic "95%" solution.
This is for a 6.5 Creedmoor in a long action Savage with a 26" McGowen barrel. I'm using once-fired Hornady brass from some factory Hornady 120 Amax cartridges. (Fired from my rifle) I have A4350 (not H4350) powder and 120 and 140 gr Amax bullets. I'm using Hornady Custom dies (full length resizer)
I'm thinking -
- Tumble
- Lube with Hornady One shot
- Deprime and full length resize
- Trim using Lee case trimmer
- Chamfer and deburr neck with Lee tool
- Clean pocket with Lee primer pocket cleaner
- Prime using Lee Autoprime
- Weigh powder using RCBS trickle charger and RCBS beam scale
- Load powder
- Seat bullet
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Am I missing something? Any use in sorting brass by weight? Do I need to do more prep to the primer pocket, or is using the little cheap Lee primer pocket cleaner enough? Debur the flash hole?
Can I use the factory OAL length, or do I need to find my lands and back off a bit? (I don't have the specialized Hornady tool to measure when the bullet is hitting the lands, but will get it if necessary)
Thanks. I've never reloaded anything other than 9mm on a progressive reloader.
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Thanks, Cha Lee. This is strictly a DIY project. No doubt Ion-bond is better than Gunkote, but I'm going to do this with an airbrush and my kitchen oven.
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Is anyone sure of which Gunkote color Tanfoglio used on the Limited Custom (the one made available in Canada but not the U.S.)
There are several Gunkote colors in black (Satin black, flat black, gloss black, etc? There's even HK black, CR black and SOCOM black.)
Looks like either Satin or Flat black, but I have no experience with either.
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Welcome.
If you don't already know, you have an excellent monthly USPSA match in your hometown.
http://www.fredericksburgps.com/ Be sure to sign up as soon as registration opens.
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Hi
This might be a hard to describe. I may have the nomenclature wrong for some of the things I'm trying to describe, so please bear with me.
I'm using a Hornady LnL AP with a Hornady powder drop and PTX (powder-thru-expander) die.
I'm getting too much variance in how much powder it drops. Let's say I think I have it dialed in for 3.8 grains. Once in every 20 rounds I'll get a charge as low as 3.3 grains. It's noticeable in the next station, which is a Hornady powder cop die.
I'm trying to use the same force and rythm on the handle.
To make matters more complicated, I can also get higher charge (but I think have that figured out.) In order to bell the case like I want, I have had to adjust the powder drop die to the point that rotor actuates slightly when the shell plate and handle are in the raised position even if there is no case. No powder is released, but the rotor moves a ~20 degrees through its arc. That seems to be loading more powder in the metering insert. So if I'm working on setting up the OAL in the crimp and raise the handle 6 times (thereby moving the powder drop rotor 20 degrees each time) in order to adjust the crimp. Now the charge when I finally put a case under the powder drop will have increased from 3.8 to 4.2. Once I realized what was going on I was able to eliminate these higher charges by making sure that the first case through the powder drop station got emptied out, and then weighing the next three or four. Ultimately, though, it's unsafe.
1) Any idea why I might be getting an occasional low charge?
2) Is it normal to have the rotor arm actuate slightly even when there's no case there? I have to think not, as that would seem to be a design flaw. I will say adjusting the PTX isn't the easiest thing, so I'm guessing that I don't have it adjusted correctly.
I'm using WST powder.
Thanks.
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You can buy a SP01 Shadow from CZC and before it leaves I can do the action work is another option
This is exactly what I did. I bought one from CZ Custom and had Stuart change the hammer and do an action job. I'm extremely pleased with the trigger. After shooting Berettas and Sigs, I had no idea a double action could be so smooth and so light. (The SA is sweet, too.)
I let a few folks that know CZ's play with the trigger and all were very impressed.
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Leozinho> I think you are making a mountain out of a moll hill. Just use a small file to remove metal from the inside of the notch. Its best if you get a file that does not have teeth on the side so you can rest the side of the file in the bottom of the notch as you are filing the side.
Going from .125 out to .150 is a huge jump. You would need a really wide front sight (.120) to keep the light bars in balance. A good rule of thumb is to keep the rear notch width within .030 - .040 of the front sight width.
Thanks, CHA-LEE. I probably am overthinking removing a bit of metal.
I've read your post on sight ratios and it's been very helpful.
This is for a new CZ, and in fact, I have a two ~.120 front sights and two .125 rear sights. My plan is to have one pair .100 (FS) and .125 (RS) and the other .120 (FS) and .150 (RS). Then I can compare the two setups. I just have the urge to tinker a bit.
I've got a .100 FO Dawson and .140 factory rear on my M&P Pro now, and I think I went too narrow with the front sight.
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I've picked up an extra rear sight that I want to open up from .125 to .150.
My plan is to use aluminum oxide sandpaper glued to a metal ruler.
I'll work on one side until it's .137, and then move to the other side until it's .150.
I'll touch up with Brownells Dicropan T-4 cold blue.
I've got some little needle files I could use, but I think the longer ruler might make it easier to keep things level.
Any flaws to this plan? (I'm sitting in a hotel room thinking about how to do this when I get home, so don't actually have the components in front of me. I might be overlooking something.)
As always, thanks to the knowledgeable folks here that are quick to provide helpful advice.
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HI guys,
I have finally decided to buy my CZ SPO-1 Shadow instead of the Tangfolio Stock II. My question that the dealer that I'm buying it from has advised me that I should get a competition hammer & have the pistol polished.
What does this mean?
Can someone explain to me in plain english.
Cheers
Will
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=148555&view=findpost&p=1706784
Be sure to read Stuart/EERW's post right below mine. If you are going to send it off to a gunsmith (Mink, CZ Custom/Stuart/EERW, Akai) you might consider purchasing it from them from the start. I ended up going that route. Picking it up from the FFL today.
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My Mec-gar 17 rounders (blue follower) maxed out my cheap little digital scale.
Follower, spring and basepad together are .67 oz. Mag body by itself maxed out the scale at 2 oz. I know that doesn't help you, but I tried.
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cz czechmate
in CZ
Just purchased one last week and shot my first match with it this last weekend. I had NO(Zero) time to practice with it. I really like it. Trigger reset is a little longer than I am used to, so caused me to not get my second shot off. The trigger pull is excellent! I am really looking forward to competing with this gun. I say buy it!
Thread drift/
At 1:00 you shoot through the mesh fencing. (Did I see that correctly?) That's a big no go where I shoot. We did have an out-of-towner who asked if he could shoot through the road fencing which is used on walls to make them lighter and more portable, and everyone looked at him like he was crazy. He said they did that were he comes from. Maybe he's normal and we are the strange ones.
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I looked online but didn't find anything. Are there any USPSA matches in Northeast Mississippi, or more specifically near Tupelo, Starkville, or Columbus?
Thanks.
Go-to budget optic for CO?
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
There was a 407c with a 8moa circle (not dot) but its discontinued. It shows up on a lot of vendor's websites but is always out of stock/discontinued. I think it would have been a good option.