moose76
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Posts posted by moose76
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I put in a 8# spring.
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Another vote for Savior, very good bag.
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NM, just read the last line again.
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Ok so which is it??? ROUND count....or TARGET count???? That is a huge difference!!!
I misspoke, it is TARGET count.
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Where are these stage descriptions posted ? ?
I can't seem to find any anywhere.
They are not posted, never have been. They are in the match book you get at check-in.
I think he is referring to Denise's post on the round counts per stage.
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Has anyone used a set screw style gas block with the Stretch 16? I have decided that my SLR Solo UltraLite is not quite as free-floated as I would like it to be with the included Stretch 16 gas block, so I either need to grind on the screws or replace the gas block with something low profile enough to give me decent clearance. For anyone not familiar with the SLR, the internal diameter is 1.3 inches, so slightly smaller than the 1.5-inch ID Midwest Industries forearms.
If you have a Cerakoted version a set screw version won't fit. Grind away or go with an SLR clamping block
Sniper Gray Cerakote... Alas, I don't care to run an adjustable gas block on this gun, and SLR only seems to make pinned non-adjustable gas blocks. Grinding may be my best bet.
Out of curiosity, why do you say a set screw block won't fitshouldn't it still fit any .750" barrel?
The thickness of the cerakote can remove the clearance needed to slide on a set screw gas block. A clamp on gas block can be pried apart enough to slide it over.
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I like the one from JB Custom Design:
https://www.strongsidetactical.com/brands/JB-Custom-Designs.html
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Carbon Arms M3Ktube. One piece, 8 round tube with a +4 extension for 12 total. Mine has run 100% I use the Nordic follower.
http://www.carbonarms.us/Shotgun-Parts-mag-tubes-and-more/Carbon-Arms-M3KTube-8-to-12-rounds.html
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I have been using ESP Classics since the beginning of the year. I don't think I would have ever tried them had I not won a certificate for them off a prize table. But if this pair eventually goes belly up, I will spend my hard earned money for another pair. They are AWESOME. I doubt I will ever use anything else.
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20gr shot nice and soft in my Stretch 16 with low mass carrier and buffer, but I had several short strokes. 22gr ran fine, going to see if 21gr will run next.
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The 1200 fps Remington managed recoil blue LE slugs work but the same exact thing in green aka non LE don't work 100%
Same for the one we have.
Weird, I have both too, but don't remember which I have shot in the Stoeger. Wonder why/how they are different.
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Fiocchi low recoil won't run Blake's M3000.
1 or 7/8 ounce? The 7/8s run fine in mine, but so do the Rem 1 oz sluggers.
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So I have been playing around with different carriers and ordered a spare breach bolt latch and breach bolt latch pin so I wouldn't need to keep swapping the stock one back and forth. The new latch is a Benelli part for the M2. As you can see from the picture below, the scalloped cut is on the opposite side from the stock Stoeger part. Does anyone know if the cut serves a purpose, or is it just there to cut weight?
Stock part is on the left, Benelli on the right:
Edit: Hand cycling with dummy rounds produces the desired result.
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Remington STS and Winchester AA 2 3/4 dram shells run for me. Federal Walmart bulk packs run too.
B&P slugs will not cycle the action on my M3000. Going to try the Fiocchi 7/8oz next.
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Getting excited! Mike, sorry if I missed it, but is there a start time set for Saturday morning?
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That is looking good!
Final
Picture deleted for redundancy reasons, but I was about to ask how far everybody is taking the front of the loading port. I've been using Tom's pictures as a reference point, but yours is pretty aggressive, Moose. I was going to just thin out the metal above the shell catch to prevent hang ups, but is it safe to actually take it back towards the shell catch/hand guard?
I think that how far and how much metal you remove from the front of the port comes down to personal preference. For my own loading technique, I found that I needed more room at the front of the loading port to get the shell past the shell catch. I was definitely worried about taking away too much of the lip that holds the follower in. What you don't see is the 5 or 6 times I completely disassembled/assembled the gun to test how it loaded after increasing the size of the port a little bit each time.
Here she is in finished trim. Thanks to MOA for the safety and bolt release button, top notch parts. Special thanks to Mark Passamaneck at Carbon Arms for the M3kTube (Awesome!) and putting up with all of my questions.
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That is looking good!
Final
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Just worked on the loading port a bit more. Used the sandpaper attachments and they worked great. It was pretty coarse, so it did a decent job at removing material. I might try out this attachment though. What do y'all think?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-8-in-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter-9901/202263215
I started with that bit, but it loads up with aluminum quickly and stops cutting. Ended up using these for the majority of the port work on mine:
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=408
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=432
I used both 1/2" and 1/4" bands. Switched to 120 grit to clean it up, then used these, http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=511E to finish things up.
I have since removed more material from the front of the port, but this should give you an idea of the results:
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Looking at the trigger groups side by side they are identical with the exception of the lifter length. Numrich has M3500 lifters for $15.55 plus $6.50 shipping so $22.05. I think I can just cut the thumb peeler off the M3500 lifter, clean it up and drop it into the M3000 for a low cost extended lifter. That beats sending it off for welding for $60 or TTI for $80.
Am I crazy or will that work?
Thanks,
Walt
Has anyone else done this? Any pictures out there?
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You'll find more posts on modifying the FN SLP, which is basically the same gun.
I just went through the same situation. I have run a SLP for several years, but just bought a M3000 to try out. Have only run around 100 rounds through it for break-in, but so far it is running great.
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What does the melonite do for the bore? does it shoot out and just stay in the groves?
Melonite is a case hardening treatment. Two benefits are a lower coefficient of friction and increased wear resistance. Melonite is seen as in improvement over chrome lining. As chrome lining is a surface plating, to retain the original dimensions of the bore, either the bore need to be cut slightly oversized, or some material must be removed before the plating can be applied. This can cause irregularities throughout the length of the bore.
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So they all work well; if my priorities are ordered as follows, which is the best fit for me (or is it a wash)?
1. Minimal muzzle blast
2. Reduced muzzle movement
3. Reduced felt recoil
Obviously we want brakes that help us play the game, but the game is no fun if you have a splitting headache at the end of the day, so I want something that will help my gun shoot flatter but with minimal muzzle blast. I know a totally different type of muzzle device is best for reducing blast, but which of these comps is the best at it?
The Carbon Arms Gas Hog has the least amount of blast of all the comps I have tried, while still remaining very effective.
Atlas Price increase 2024
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Atlas has a website that shows pistols that they have recently shipped to dealers.
https://atlasgunworks.com/dealer-pistols