forty5cal1911
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Posts posted by forty5cal1911
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The thought entered my mind on those coatings because I had some laying around or so I thought. I have not ended up doing this because on further consideration I decided I didn't want the shine that would bring to the grip finish.
Really the big thing for me was the ease of cleaning but I've had to clean this grip a couple of times after matches and it's not bad at all. As you stated the Si02 coating will not be very durable in this application due to friction/abrasion and various solvents.
I'm opting to keep it in the bead blast finish for the time being and I re-blasted my thumb safety to match the grip.
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11 hours ago, GregJ said:
Sorry, just saw this. My CED Millinium 2 unit would not give me consistent readings, constant errors, etc, so I really was not interested in comparing the velocities, I just wanted something that would work and be reliable. I will say the velocities from the G2 has been consistent with those from the few majors I've gone to since using it.
Thanks Greg! That's what I wanted to hear.
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9 hours ago, chevrofreak said:
I had my G2 set up next to my Labradar the other day and the average velocities were within just a few FPS.
Thank you for the confirmation!
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Guess nobody's using this chrono?
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1 minute ago, Glockster1 said:
I recall the rules saying the factory firearm safeties can't be disabled. That would include the grip safety.
8.1.2.6When applicable, the grip safety may be disabled provided that theprimary safety as described in 8.1.2.5 is operable. Production andCarry Optics division handguns are explicitly excluded from thisrule (See Appendices D4 and D7, item 22.1). -
2 hours ago, Postal Bob said:
First, is your OAL somewhere between 1.180"-1.20". 2011 guns work best with rounds loaded long.
Next a good properly tuned 2011, and tuned mags, should feed anything. All my 2011's will feed equally well JHP's, FP's, and FMJ's. If the JHP's are hitting the bottom of the feed ramp, and hanging up, it means they are pointing too low when being stripped out of the magazine. Besides a magazine catch or extractor issue, it's usually a magazine feed lip issue. When a round is fed from the magazine, it should make contact with the feed ramp somewhere in the middle of the ramp. Too high, or too low, it will hang up.
This video by Atlas guns explains it best, and how to fix it.
+1 on this
I load to 1.19 in .40 and had to open my front mag lips up so that the round presents the projectile tip higher and strikes the feed ramp in the proper position. I confirmed 100% running with my MBX mags yesterday after that modification. You can use a black sharpie to color the feed ramp to determine where your rounds are hitting.
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I've found that the feed lips on these Gen 1 MBX .40 cal mags were Front .385 and Rear .390. I've opened up the front to be .397 and is definitely much better when hand feeding with no recoil system. Will see if it can run a full mag without a failure to feed today.
One thing I've learned on these 2011 platforms is that EVERYTHING requires tuning, no exceptions.... YMMV
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2 minutes ago, Shooter17 said:
Well that sucks!
Yeah no doubt! I've got a MBX gen 2 that should be in tuesday and we'll see how it runs but would really love to be able to fix my gen 1's.
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I’m having the same issue with MBX gen 1 140 mm mags when full. If I only load 1 round or a few rounds it won’t hang on the feed ramp. OAL doesn’t seem to matter as I’ve loaded them down to 1.125 and same problem.
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Greg how do you feel the accuracy of the G2 unit has been for you? I've read a lot of reviews that report inconsistent velocities. Have you compared it side by side (or inline) with your old CED?
Would also be interested in any other users feedback. I love the app capability but if the unit doesn't give accurate readings it's a no go.
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"Make Ready" you can find it in the App Store. They have a lite version for free only caveat is it doesn't have range commands and start delay.
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There are two on ebay currently.
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Amen and AMEN! Psalm 91 brother
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15 hours ago, cbrussell said:
I am liking the looks of the LSI grip. What are people coating their grips with? Anodizing, hard chrome, DLC? Any thoughts on the color? Or just leave it as stainless steel?
I've seen a lot of DLC/PVD and cerakote it seems. Also looks like some just leaving it raw. Anodizing is only for aluminum or titanium and wouldn't apply to a steel grip.
I've been evaluating what I'm going to do with mine and it occurred to me that I had a product I had used on some wheels for one of my vehicles. This product is called 22PLE and is a "glass coating" that bonds to the wheels surface and protects from corrosion and make brake dust cleanup a breeze. My experience with that was that it worked VERY well as advertised, though not particularly cheap. These "glass coatings / nano coatings / ceramic coatings" got me wanting to do some research on how they work. So I read several scholarly studies on SiO2 treatment on steel for corrosion resistance and wow the studies do show that these coating can significantly reduce the amount of corrosion on steel surfaces. All of that to say I went to the garage and rummaged through my detailing stuff and found my bottle of 22PLE VM1. Opened it up.... and lo and behold the cap was broken and it was hard as a rock in the container.
So I'm opting to stay with the steel finish but will be coating with Gtechniq C5. I'll be interested to see how durable it will be with the constant friction but it should offer quite an increase in corrosion resistance. I may start a separate thread on this.
Here's a link to a paper on SiO2 treatment on mild steel SiO2 nanocomposite coatings for corrosion resistance
Here's a link to a general about SiO2 coatings http://www.cori-coatings.be/ceramic-coating/
Keep in mind these products are primarily used in the automotive market.
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Were they the ones with the integrated magwell?
If so DSPerman http://www.dsperman.com/products/1911MW/1911MW.html
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We're on for a match this weekend. Looks to be a small squad at this point.
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@ARac40 did you ever try this on your PT grip? I feel like it would be pretty difficult to get it applied evenly in a timely manner and that removal would be a real PIA even rinsing.
I just used this kit for my LSI beavertail and it turned out great. Took me two different prep and applications though. First attempt was terribly splotchy. You can see my results here: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/278243-2011-steel-grips/?do=findComment&comment=3167320
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Got most of the blending of the beavertail to the frame done. I don't love the splotchiness that I got on the stainless blackening, looked more even prior to wiping down. But should be pretty easy fix. I also had some hot spots on the atlas thumb safeties as my hands don't have a lot of meat and are pretty bony in the knuckles. So I contoured those a little better. Ran about 50 rounds through it just doing some testing yesterday before any blending. With the front strap undercut you can really get a high and solid grip on the pistol. Makes quite a bit of difference in my opinion and this grip just feels so natural.
Update:
Was able to get a much more even finish on the beavertail. FYI if you are inclined to use the caswell stainless black don't wipe it down or rinse. Scrape it off with a card then apply oil. Matches the STI bluing perfectly.
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Just got finished fitting my LSI grip. Ergonomics are outstanding and the grippiness is perfect for me. Can't imagine going much more aggressive myself.
Since Glenn cuts them to your frame dimension fitting was a breeze. Only thing I had to do was lower the top of the inner grip bushing blocks to fully seat the grip. Going to take it out to my range today to give it a test run.
I can't say enough good things about Glenn @ LoneStar.... great service, GREAT product and really serving a niche in our community.
Am going to do some grip safety to frame blending this weekend and will be using the Caswell stainless blackening kit to match the safety to the frame.
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Love it. Looks beautiful and I'm sure shoots well.
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47 minutes ago, yigal said:
in their guns mim parts from 1.1 .2019 :
1.ejector
2. slide stop pin
3. firing pin stop plate
4. mag catch release.
5. thumb safety
6. beaver tail
new sear and disco are better quality than from EE. saw only few slide stop break in place where it catch the slide.
Thanks Yigal!
You mind expanding on your thoughts that their sear is "better" than an EE? I have always regarded extreme as very high quality and my experience is their sears hold jobs for thousands and thousands of rounds.
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Was looking at some of their parts at Shooters connection the other day as well. Would love to hear some feedback from anyone whose used any of their parts. They look to be good quality and some of their race guns do look real pretty.
Anyone know if their small parts are barstock, mim, cast?
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I'm taking advantage of some time to train on my outdoor range. Working all the fundamentals again.
All of this just as I'm getting back into the sport after a decade hiatus.
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I think so.
Anything you can do to mimic the live environment is a plus particularly if you have the ability to set up a mock stage or some of the drills in Steve Anderson's "Refinement and Repetition" book.
2011 steel grips
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
You won't be disappointed