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Posts posted by andyroth
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You can check out the classifieds subforum. What gear do you have now?
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I already turned them in. It was easy as could be. They just asked what the story was and why I wanted to dispose of them. I explicitly stated that they were not safe to shoot.I'd label them somehow, before I turned them over to anyone.
Make it obvious that these are potentially dangerous, and not
to be fired in some local LEO's service weapon. In writing.
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I gave my local PD a call and they said I could just bring them over. I'm sitting here waiting for an officer now. Will report back with how it went.
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OK new question... how do I dispose of live ammo safely? I'd rather just get rid of them than sit there and pull 250 bullets with my bullet puller
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Yep. I loaded 250.take your 3.2gr load and load a few at 1.150, then a few at 1.140, then a few at 1.130, and so on. Shoot those and watch the primers for pressure signs as you step to each shorter load.
That sounds like some excellent advice, to me.
You didn't mention how many of these short loads you made up - if it's just
a few, I'd put them into my garbage pile.
But, if you did an idiotic thing, like load up 300 of them (don't ask ) I would
follow Olliver's suggestion, above.
But, sounds awfully short to me.
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For .40 S&W I usually shoot 180gn bullets. This time around I bought 200gn bullets because I wanted to try them out.
I didn't check the OAL...
When loading my 180gn bullets the OAL is 1.135".
The new OAL with the 200gn bullets is 1.071" and the bullets themselves are 0.65"
Powder: 3.2gn Titegroup (shooting production minor)
Primer: S&B
Is it safe to shoot these? I know the power factor will go up, just want to make sure the gun won't blow up.
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Perfect that answers my question thanks guys. With you changing your guide rod and different spring weights did you have to change your striker spring or is it ok to leave that stock if I have a 13 or 14# recoils spring ?
To answer your question, you don't need to change the striker spring, it doesn't really relate to the recoil spring.
You can change the striker spring to make the trigger pull lighter by using a lighter spring. Don't go too light though or you will get light strikes on your primers.
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I thought extended mags aren't allowed in production?
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My glock 35 Cycles 125 power factor with the stock spring but it doesn't feel as soft as the 13-pound spring
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Cheaper than snap caps...
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Or buy the gun and sell the frame since you don't need it.See if you can get just the slide. You can reuse everything else and hopefully save a bunch of money. The new slide will go on your 17 or 34 since they have identical frames.
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Good Luck with that.
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See if you can get just the slide. You can reuse everything else and hopefully save a bunch of money. The new slide will go on your 17 or 34 since they have identical frames.
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Thanks everyone. Just bought a SS guide rod, 13lb ISMI spring, and gen 4 adapter from RockYourGlock. All in it was about $45 including shipping.
My hangup was that I was looking for the dual spring assembly like the one that came with the gun. I've learned that's not what I was supposed to be looking for.
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I'm under the impression that I need a lighter recoil spring for shooting a minor load in my Glock 35. I can't seem to find a listing to buy a Glock 35 light recoil spring assembly. Can someone who shoots production with a Glock 35 give me some direction on where to get this spring or if I even need it?
If so, what weight should i get? I'm thinking 14 lb.
Thanks
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Is it a coupon code to get the discount? Do you know what it is?
Black and Blue bullets offers different sizes and colors on their bullets. Ive never used them though so no comment there.+1 for the blue bullets (they are made about 12 miles from my house) I've shot about 2800 through my glock 17 factory barrel and they are great. As far as diameter goes, I have not seen any coated bullet manufacturers that offer more than one size. Plenty of cast companies do (dardas etc) but i'm not aware of any coated options on diameter.
+1 on blue bullets. Great price, they offer a discount to Benos members and in my testing are awesome accuracy wise. Once you get the dies set so youre not breaking the coating the coated bullets are great. I had terrible accuracy using xtremes. Blue Bullets were much better for me.
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Gotcha. Thanks for the tipIt de-primes on 1 and the primer does not fall off of the de-priming pin and gets pulled back partially into the case. Then it moves to the priming station where the old primer is seated by the new primer pushing against it.
Bottom line is you end up with a cartridge with a spent primer in it, which is why it doesn't go bang.
You'll learn to tell when this happens by the feel of the handle on the press...
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Hmm. Doubt it... my Square Deal deprimes on station 1...
I tried firing it a few times thinking it was just a light strike, but it never went off.
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Thanks everyone.
I shot my first 60 rounds today. Other than 1 misfire they were fantastic.
I think the 1 misfire was that the primer was seated too deeply. I'll be a little gentler next time.
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Are you using mixed head stamp brass?
Yes
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My only DQ was at an IDPA match.
The stage started out with you in snow gloves holding a snow shovel. You had to drop the shovel and gloves, draw, and fire at 4 targets as you back up to a barrel behind you with a mag on the ground behind the barrel. Reload behind the barrel, and shoot the 4 targets again from cover.
Instead of backing up behind the barrel, I spun 180 degrees, sweeping everyone watching...
Not that it matters in the slightest, but I take solace in the fact that my gun was empty with the slide locked back
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Probably more important is making sure that after you seat the
bullet and "crimp" the round, that you cannot push the bullet
into the case (shorten the OAL) - bullet setback can be a real
problem in .40 major.
How do I test that? I know it was a PITA to pull the bullet with my bullet puller when I checked to make sure the belling / crimp wasn't shaving the coating off.
I loaded 60 rounds of 4.2gn Titegroup for the range tomorrow. Have a chrono coming on Monday to start building some real data.
I'll put a round at the bottom of a mag and not shoot it for a couple of mags and see if the COAL changes.
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Just got a Square Deal B (.40 S&W) for my Glock 35.
Got the 250 rnd sample pack from The Blue Bullets (180 gn RNFP).
OAL is varying between about 1.132 and 1.136. I can't seem to get it to the same length consistently.
My question is:
1. Is this a problem? If it goes over 1.135 will something bad happen since it's out of "spec"? I assume a tad under 1.135 is fine since the load data for the powder I'm using (Titegroup) used 1.125" for their load data.
2. Is the most likely culprit inconsistent bullets, inconsistent primer seating depth, or inconsistent press/die? Visually, all of the primers look flush...
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Baseplates are the way to increase magazine size. Depending on how many more rounds you want there are different sizes. For 5 extra rounds I'd say the top 3 options are Dawson, TTI, and Arredondo. They all run somewhere around $30-40 each
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Yes. Any glock can take the same mags of any other glock given same caliber and generation assuming you are putting the bigger mag in the smaller gun and not the other way around.
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What does the icon on this headstamp mean?
in General Reloading
Posted
What does the icon next to "S&B" mean?
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