theWacoKid
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Posts posted by theWacoKid
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15 hours ago, gianmarko said:
if thats the case, is really incredible considering the price of a RTS2
producing a proper electronic board would not be that expensive, a few design changes and conformal coating or potting would go a long way towards reliability
the contacts themselves are ok, the problem is the mechanical and electrical interface with the rest.
the chip in this specific MRD is not an attiny, unless it was scrubbed of the markings.
They do tend to scrub the markings. Most of these dots all come from the same place that's why they're so similar. The v5 board in the RTS2 is finally an entirely new construction with improvements, added complexity, and still yet to be long term tested so we'll see.
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That's basically the exact same board you'll find in an RTS2 V4 and earlier. The chip is an ATtiny13A. The are multiple failure points that crop up over time and the battery contacts are rarely it. Yes, unfortunately, it's all electronics you'd expect to find in a cheap child's toy.
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Doubled.
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On 10/31/2019 at 10:26 PM, Matt1 said:
The real value of having a 2nd gun is not so you have a backup if something breaks but so you can have a “fresh” gun for matches.
So you train with one gun and then switch to the “match” gun for any match that you care about. The “practice” gun is the backup to matchy in case it does go down for some reason.
For this to work the guns really need to be identical.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI know a few guys that use this strategy. Honestly, it tends to get you into your backup at a match more than using the heavily tested beater gun you always shoot. In theory, I agree, it sounds great.
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50 minutes ago, Racinready300ex said:
Not always, as a example if you're shooting CO and Max misses his flight suddenly your % goes up.
I was at a Area match and watched the winner fall down twice during the match. Probably not his best performance but he still won and everyone else's % was based on what he did that day. It's also possible everyone just got better that day too. I don't know.
You know the beauty about that benchmark though? You tend to know its validity intrinsically. Exactly by way of the items you stated above. Can you really say that about any other benchmark?
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Recoil spring, firing pin spring, and main spring *might* get changed when the gun gets an entirely new top end.
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20 minutes ago, Specialneeds said:
Wacokid.. from your statement I should be using the largest powder drop by volume with the lowest chamber pressure? That would equate to having less recoil and more driving energy?
No, the lowest possible chamber pressure is not the goal and lower pressure does not equal lower recoil. I'm saying that, in general, more gas volume at a given pf improves a compensated gun. Just in general. A lot of the ways of doing this, thanks to physics, means peak pressure has to be lower because total area under the pressure curve must be the same for a given bullet and muzzle velocity which is what we're trying to keep fixed.
You can't have more driving energy and less recoil, it doesn't work like that. For a given muzzle velocity, the bullet will always contribute the same amount of total recoil momentum to the gun and the peak pressure is irrelevant to that.
So you're looking for a target muzzle velocity with sufficient gas volume. I say sufficient and not max, because at some point it will become counterproductive since gas also contributes to recoil. Pressure doesn't really come in to the equation other than being a byproduct of achieving this.
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47 minutes ago, Specialneeds said:
Explain please? The bigger cases provide more of each volume and pressure? These are the subjects I wanted to discuss. Not the value of 9major over various 'versions' of a tried&trued 38special.
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Compensators; they work best around the 175-180pf range? What will make the greatest use of this muzzle device? From other threads, have gathered that poppel ports work like vertical ports in a comp. However it dumps the pressure much more soon and has less surface area to work against. Alongside potential issues with jackets or coatings.
The bigger case doesn't provide gas volume, the size of your powder charge does. More case volume means larger charge for a given pf and ability to use some of the slowest powders. Larger cases equate to lower peak pressure for the same pf. If you wanted high pressure, 9 major and its smaller case with a slightly lower charge for the same pf would be the way to go.
Contrary to popular opinion, compensators do not work best at 175-180 pf. Compensators work at all pf and improve with gas volume, not pf. The higher the pf the more gas will be there, but there is a larger recoil impulse to offset. Ideally, a lot of gas with minimal recoil to offset from the ejected bullet and gas is ideal. There's a reason a lot of us load major to sub 170, it's better all around.
Popple holes exhaust gasses sooner, but therefore generate thrust for a longer period of time. It's a different feel, some like it, some don't. I do.
Open gun setups are as varied as humans, there is no consensus.
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The extreme brass that is actually brass and not "FM" head stamped with the internal step is good. However, it is thick walled and will set off powder alarms.
I had a whole batch of the stuff new and since it has reduced case volume I kept it together and loaded it with a slightly reduced charge. Works great but yes it is a little different. When a random one rolls by in my mixed brass I'll often notice it because the powder looks high. Worth a couple pf.
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2 hours ago, Specialneeds said:
To my comprehension of said device, more pressure equals more effect. 9x23 is 15-20k psi more than 38super. All with less powder. Only seems logical. By trend most tapered cartridges feed better than straight wall counterparts.
38 Super Comp can be run at those 9x23 pressures in our guns. But pressure isn't what you want anyway so it's irrelevant. Volume relative to muzzle velocity is the key item.
There's good reason 38 Super Comp and 9 major dominate open division. At the same time 9x23 works just fine, as it's basically a less popular version of 38 Super for our purposes.
It seems you have your mind made up and are hunting for agreement, don't waste your time, just start shooting 9x23 and get going.
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Sometimes mags hit the frame and sometimes they're too big front to back for the grip. Before enlarging mag catch I reshape the mag until it fits properly and clears everything. If you enlarge the mag catch hole the mag will sit lower which may be needed but once done, no going back.
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The only issue with 9x23 is it doesn't stack as well as straight walled cases in the magazine. Not a deal breaker it works fine.
You sound very similar to most who jump into this. Scared of 9 major and interested in safe book loads for major. Eventually we all realize it's very unnecessary. 9 major with slow powders is still safer than a lot of fast powder minor loads and fast powder 40 major loads. I've seen more production and limited gun catastrophic failures than 9 major. It's pretty well figured out at this point and the slow powders are more forgiving.
There are 38 Super book loads that make major and even some 9x21 loads you can reproduce in 9x19. If your fear drives you to 9x23 brass that's fine, but eventually you'll realize on your own it's unnecessary.
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Nothing is set in stone. But in general:
1) Compensated guns tend to end up best using bullets on the lighter end of the spectrum. For .355" open bullets most tend to settle on 115's, 121's, or 124's.
2) Slower powders perform better, are safer pushing ammo to major, and are less sensitive to loading variances (powder drop, overcharge, OAL, etc.).
3) 9x23 is an awesome choice, however, .38 Super Comp is slightly cheaper and straight walled which is why you see very few 9x23 guns compared to .38 Super Comp.
4) I'm partial to 121's and 124's. Spent plenty of time with 115's and they're not terrible.
5) This is all personal preference, but I would encourage you to stick with powders much slower than Autocomp, it's terrible. I also think the beloved 3N38 sucks.
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The simple answer to the question in your subject is yes, without question. The entire level of skill continues to move upward and that includes the entire field.
It's pretty crazy that as soon as one person does something that seemed unattainable, immediately many others are able to do it as well. That drives the progression of the sport.
Like konkapot stated above, if you want to move up you have to first improve constantly just to keep up with the overall improvements of everyone else and then you've got to improve even more than that to get ahead.
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2 hours ago, Chrisperkins027 said:
So what you’re saying here is that only the overall division winners matter? If that’s the case then those of us lower class shooters (the bulk of the shooters) don’t matter. If that’s the case then this becomes a sport that only the pros can compete in and would largely fall to a spectator sport. I was under the impression that the sport existed to support the love of shooting and the 2nd Amendment and to acknowledge shooters of all levels. Pretty sure if it only consisted of Ms and GMs there would be no sport.
I'm with moto on this one. And, yes, only the overall division win actually matters. That's the win, not the shooter. All the shooters competing matter, but the GM, M, A, B, C, D, and U classifications and class wins do not actually matter. It just doesn't mean anything concrete. The shooters matter, as they are the sport, but the classifications don't because it's just an imperfect side show some people have fun with.
So have fun with it as it is. No matter how many corrections are made to it it will never be perfect and the belly aching will never stop. This is proven fact.
When the match is over, you know how you did irrespective of class finish and you know the skill level of the people shooting around you. If you're worried about prize table or contingency play the classification game and cleverly select your matches. If you're worried about improving and pushing yourself, shoot the match and forget about others.
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2 hours ago, random_guy7531 said:
Hey all! So I've been having an sporadic issue in my transition to open. Namely, oftentimes (almost always on the first shot right after the draw or reload) the slide fails to go all the way forward into battery, and gets held up ~50% of the way forward (so the round is partway into the chamber, but not all the way off of the feed lips). The failure gets solved quickly (most of the time) with a quick forward smack on the racker. My suspicion is that my strong hand thumb is dragging on the slide enough to cause issues when the top round friction is at its highest (e.g. exactly in the scenarios where I am seeing problems).
I'd like to try to install a shield of some kind simply to test out this hypothesis, but I'd rather not spend the $100+ on a shielded safety only to find out that the issue is elsewhere. I've seen some thumb guards that EGW and others sell, but most of the thumb guards I've seen replace the detent plunger tube, so I am obviously disinclined to go that route. Is anyone aware of a drop in thumb shield that is relatively low cost that I can try? Conceivably, I could also just try modifying my grip, but I would prefer to not out do so, as it would require me to also relearn my grip when going back to CO (my home division).
Thanks!
Actually, the shielded safeties are the cheapest option. The best option is the legit shield, but the cost of that is higher considering the work to properly install.
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25 minutes ago, Barcode1337 said:
My dream would be integrating some ninja warrior-type obstacles in a match.
That's not the spirit of USPSA and would completely ruin the game so you'll have to find it elsewhere.
Physical activity and challenges included in a stage are one thing but an obstacle course is over the line. Let 3gun keep the dumb activities to themselves.
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Move the weight up for higher frequency and down for lower frequency.
Changing the weight will not do almost nothing as long as the current weight is many times greater than the weight of the paper target, target sticks, and shaft. Gravity controls how the bobber accelerates and that behavior is independent of the size of the weight, but how it becomes angular motion is greatly affected by the distance of the weight from the pivot.
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1 hour ago, anonymouscuban said:
Are there any matches that incorporate the stuff of yesteryear anymore? Is there a reason why we don't see stages that require more physicality? Would you guys want to see more of this?
Just a noob here asking you more experienced guys. Seems to me like these physical elements would make stages more interesting.
The game has evolved over time and will continue to do so. At this point the focus in USPSA tends to favor the quantity of shooting over some of the other aspects. However, I've still shot plenty stages this year with long runs, low ports, prone shooting, technical setups, long/difficult targets, cooper tunnels, balance beams, etc. It just depends on what matches you go to and who sets up your local matches.
The word practical in USPSA is mostly legacy and reflects how the game originated at that point in time. Today it has evolved into a true game focused on testing the ability of a human to plan and execute a task using a handgun. The practical still lives in the base of the skills: safe/controlled gun handling, quick gun manipulation, marksmanship, accuracy at speed. So the practical ability to handle and shoot a firearm does come out of the pursuit of shooting USPSA but beyond that it is a game of elevating skill where the stages provide a problem to solve as a test and not anything "practical".
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From what I see Zeros are not 2 cents cheaper than mg's, they are MORE expensive. No mg doesn't make a 147 jhp but they have a nice flat point cmj.
I shoot mostly jhp 124's and generally by retail pricing the zeros are over 10 cents, mg's under 10 cents, and pd's 9 cents. I don't believe you're saving money with zeros, you're actually spending more.
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2 minutes ago, RangerTrace said:
I'm pretty sure you knew what I meant.
Units matter.
On another note I've never seen Zeros cheaper than the jhp's I shoot. Including a big group buy where I was quoted a bulk price that didn't beat the base price from mg or pd.
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5 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
I've been very happy with the KKM barrels in my CK and Cheely pistols.
Thankfully, I've had pretty good luck getting ZERO bullets lately and since they are .02 cents cheaper than MG, I hope my luck continues.
.02 cents is $0.0002. That's saving 20 cents per thousand bullets. Not sure that'd be a factor in my decision making process.
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14 hours ago, candiru said:
Yes. All of them.
Passed equipment check at multiple USPSA majors.Haven't seen a 4g pass on a new SV big stick yet. In fact, I had to massage mine with 3g pads to get them to fit and even then it's still tight.
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7 hours ago, Big Guy said:
I know we don't have to have bullseye accuracy for our game, but my gun is loose (25 yds groups suck). I'll probably will be looking to replace it sometime next year, but for know, I'm looking for a "temporary" solution.
You've already gotten the "there are many things that can cause this problem" so I'll skip that part.
Depending on where the slide is loose, you can squeeze it in a vice and tighten it up laterally. A last resort type solution.
I will second another option given above and that is to fit up an oversized (0.203") slide stop. A loose slide is irrelevant if the gun locks up tight and consistent.
inside a MRD
in Open Pistols
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Not the first.