pete579

Well, I should've bought the bottle of 2400 that I saw late last year before I even posted my question here because I haven't seen any since. I ended up grabbing a bottle of AA9 last Friday instead since I also couldn't find Power Pistol or 300MP, which became my 2nd and 3rd choices respectively. I tested them yesterday and 14.6 & 14.8 gave the best accuracy, so I'm going to make up 18rds each of 14.6, 14.7, & 14.8 to try and narrow it down. My gut says to just set my measure to throw 14.7 & roll with it, but I had so much fun shooting them that I'm happy to do more tests. The only "down side" was AA9 apparently has flash suppressors because the only light show from my 4" GP was from the factory loads I used to compare mine to, but with as much fun as I had with the AA9 loads (literally laughing out loud after sending 6 down range), I'm ok with that. I haven't had that much fun at the range since I rented some machine guns for my birthday a few years back.

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I'm really looking forward to getting started with these. When I started this thread, I thought I'd be able to get started immediately, but unfortunately my work schedule just got crazy busy, so it'll now have to wait until next year. Thankfully that's only a couple months away. In the mean time I'm reading up on reloading for rifle. Next year is going to be fun!

Thanks for the reply. I'm really looking forward to getting started with these. (Sorry for the delay. I didn't get a notice of your comment.)

I'm gathering components to begin loading 357 for my 4" GP. I've been making reduced 38's for my wife and 38+P for myself, but sometimes you just want more power to change things up. I'm looking to make some fun shooting, full power 357's. Not too stout. Not too soft. I've heard 2400 gives a nice light show, which would be a nice change, and is always a crowd pleaser. I found a good deal last night on some Speer 125gr TMJ FN. Would 2400 for the powder with CCI 550's to get things started get me what I'm looking for? The data on Alliant's website shows 125gr Speer GDHP, 17.5gr max, 1.580 OAL, so I'm thinking to start at 16.5gr at 1.580 and work up from there. Thoughts?

Thanks zzt. TG has been working well in the 2" (38), once I got my data straight. I had just about decided buying 700X was a huge mistake until I tried it in my 45 just for kicks, turns out I'm loving it there , but in a 2" revolver I was less than amused. It worked fairly well in my 4" (38) but I like TG even more there. I'm just left wondering if there's a better powder for this particular application (2" 38). I'm running Berry's 125gr FP (38) btw.

I've been scouring the forums looking for similar information and while I have learned a thing or two, I have also found myself with new questions, but most threads are long dead. This one, while also helpful, still leaves me wondering about one powder in particular because I've yet to spot it on a burn rate chart and has peaked my interest. Alliant BE-86. Does anyone have info on it or a chart that lists it? I'm trying to find a powder that gives good performance for 38 Special in a 2" bbl. I've been using TG and recently tried 700X because one chart listed it as slightly faster burning, but with poor performance in this application, I tried looking it up again and found it listed lower, so I then compared a few charts and the confusion set in.

Well that little Windicator, aside from the ridges on the trigger face (my dremel will fix that), is a nice simple little no frills shooter. The felt recoil between it (2.5" barrel) and the GP100 (4" barrel) was negligible. My wife liked it so much she not only stole it from me but then asked me to teacher her how to reload 38's when we got home, lol. She was really good with it too. 5" group on a 6" target at 10 yards after test firing it at 5 yards. I only managed to hit the same target at 10 yards once, and it was low (at least I'm a better shot at long range...for now anyway, lol). It's no Speed Six either but it's apparently a keeper. I think what I like about the Speed Six is the double action trigger is a little lighter and smoother. It doesn't seem to plateau/stage before it breaks, so it's a much more crisp break, and the hammer is a little closer so it's easier to get a hold of without coming off target as much.

I don't notice a hump in the middle of trigger pull but it does seem to plateau just before it breaks. I'm not convinced wear will improve that and have wondered about having a gunsmith see what he could do with it. The trigger pull is a little heavier but acceptable so I wouldn't want to mess with the springs, but if it felt like it was lightened a little with some polishing of parts, I certainly wouldn't complain. I went to a gun show yesterday and ran across a German made snub. I'd never heard of it (EAA Windicator) but given the price tag on it, I grabbed it. I'll be going to the range today to see what it can do since it passed all the safety/function checks when I got it home last night.

I got my hands on a Speed Six a few weeks ago and fell in love only to learn Ruger stopped producing them years ago. Is there a current production equivalent or am I joining the cult searching the world over for a good one that's not gonna cost me an arm and leg? I've already bought a GP100 and while it's a nice gun, it's no Speed Six.

Just wanted to say thank you for all the info and advice and give a quick update. I finally had a chance to test a couple batches last weekend (started with 5 each 3.9 to 4.3, then made up 10 each of 4.0 & 4.2 and 5 each at 4.4gr, 4.5gr, and 4.6 (didn't shoot the 4.6) and went back to the range the next day. I videoed the various loads and analyzed the footage and didn't see any real improvement or difference by going hotter. They just got snappier.). I'm liking 4.2gr at 1.135" OAL and my wife is enjoying 4.0gr at 1.135" OAL. I just ordered some Berry's 124gr RN 9mm to experiment with and went ahead and bought a box of Berry's 230gr RN .45acp as well since I found some dies on this trip in a Cabela's in TX (so glad they have truck parking. I lost focus and wandered around too long which ran out my HOS so I had to take a 10 on their property, ). I can't wait to get home (6/12/15) and see what I can make with them! (God bless my wife. When I told her I found some dies for 45acp, she ran the 45acp I picked up at the range through the tumbler and then sorted them by primer size and manufacturer and is helping hunt down primers )

No, not yet.

Thanks Sarge. I would guess book data is based somewhat on SAAMI standards to give starting data since there are so many different barrels/lengths, bullets, etc and powder manufactures recommend the 10% reduced charge to try and prevent over pressure since they also don't know the barrel you're using, and book COAL seems to be the minimum unless otherwise noted so the round should feed in almost anything. They list the barrel length, COAL, primer, etc, etc, they used so less experienced reloaders can look at it and have a place to start, while guys like you that have compiled years of you're own data and loads can look at it and know you don't nessissary have to start at the very beginning if you've used something similar in the past. Anyway, to check my understanding again, only because I'm using plated, I can start with the lead data as it's written and find the longest COL that will chamber without touching the lands and fit the mag and gradually reduce COL, but with each COL reduction reduce the charge. So if I start at 1.135" and find 4.0gr & 4.2gr are good but I want to see if I can group better, I'd reduced COL maybe 0.005" to 1.130" and reduce the charge by 0.2gr to 3.8gr and work the charge back up. That way I'm gradually increasing pressure as case volume decreases instead of chasing pressure with increasing case volume? (I'm just throwing numbers around for the sake of an example.)

For some reason I'm just not understanding this. Can you, or someone else, try explaining it a different way? The reason for starting longer and going shorter (other than pressure, if there is one), or provide a source that explains this? I did a little looking yesterday but the only thing I found before I had to hit the bunk was from Nosler on setting up rifle COAL. Is it basically the same thing for pistol? I know there are some similarities between loading pistol and rifle but there's also differences, and I haven't spent nearly the amount of time looking into that, other than a couple YouTube videos and random articles I stared reading only to realize they were talking rifle. My only real understanding of seating closer to the lands is to reduce the jump but too close can cause pressure spikes too because, as I remember it being explained, it's like trying to hop a curb in your car with your tire almost touching it. It takes more effort to get started versus starting a foot back and having more acceleration. Thanks.

I would make a dummy at 1.13-1.14 and drop check it in your gun's barrel. Round should fall in, spin and fall out without any sticking at all. Also make sure they fit in the mag which I'm virtually certain they will. What are you making this ammo for? Just plinking or shooting USPSA/IDPA? Probably start at about 4.2 and work up. You will probably end up in the 4.6 range if you are going for a good minor PF load for games. You need to make more than 3 of each load to get any real useful info out of it. All of the loads I suggest will certainly cycle the gun. I would make probably 20 of each 4.2, 4.4, 4.6 and see what you think. Barrel length affects velocity. In general terms the longer the barrel the faster the bullet within reason. A given round will be faster in a 5" barrel as opposed to a 3" carry gun. Pressure is affected by the rounds oal. I use the example of dropping a firecracker in a popcan compared to dropping it in a 55 gallon drum. The smaller the space the more pressure will increase and typically velocity as well. TG is excellent powder as long as you use due diligence while reloading. Next time you order bullets get some 124/125 grainers and drop the charge to 4.0 or so. Much softer, less snappy feel than the 115's. Right now I'm reloading for my own enjoyment, to learn a new skill, and to round out my hobby a bit more. I remembered my other question while reading your comment and you seem to have already answered it. Looking at the data and knowing plated falls between lead and jacketed, I was left wondering, do I really have to back off the normally recommended 10% or could I simply start at the minimum for lead since it would theoretically be the 10% less for plated if plated data were published by the various manufacturers and other trusted data producers. The answer appears to be yes, I can start higher if I'm using plated. The reason for only 3 in each charge was simply so once it goes bang and the bullet (hopefully) leaves the barrel but the slide isn't pushed far enough to eject the case, chamber the next round, or stay open on the last round, I wasn't left with a bunch needing to be opened up and recharged. With some of the starting charges being so light, for what I perceived to be potential squibs, I didn't want to over produce for initial testing. I've read a lot of comments from new guys stating the made up 50 or 100 only to have to break them back down and try again. I figured if it didn't work in 3 it just wasn't worth a 4th, 5th or 10th until I was more in the accuracy stage of testing. With your insight and experience confirming some of my suspicions and giving me new information, I'm willing to compromise and make 10 each and I'm more comfortable starting at 4.0gr now. I'm still probably going to step up 0.1gr instead of 0.2 since I'm new though and not sure how much of a difference it will make (I will gladly let you know if you were right all along, just don't tell my wife, lol). Once I get my first range trip out of the way, my confidence level should go up, and I'll be willing to take more risks. (that really doesn't sound right but I hope you know what I mean.) Thanks for the reply!

I'm an experienced shooter that's just getting into reloading. I've done a lot of research here and on other forums, websites, books, etc while hunting down components. I've finally gathered everything I need to get started (not necessarily what I was looking for, but I believe it should work and at least get me started) so I'm interested in getting some experienced eyes on my load plan to make sure I'm on the right track. I have: Beretta 92A1 (4.9" barrel) Berry's 9mm (.356") plated 115gr RN Hodgdon Titegroup CCI SP primers Blazer once fired brass (mine from the Beretta) Lee single stage press and dies I've started making dummy rounds to get a feel for the process and to get the dies set up. From the data I've found and other information I've looked at I'm planning to start with: COL 1.110" (0.010" above Hodgdon min and 0.020" below Berry's recommendation) 3.5gr - 10% under TG min load (LRN) 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 - TG min load (LRN) 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 - TG max load (LRN) These are for function test, so I'm planning to only make 3 of each charge listed, then recharge 5 each with the most successful charges to test for accuracy and begin increasing COL to look for improvements, and continue narrowing down and increasing test loads until I find "the one" with these components. (I just realized while writing this, that this is almost like dating, but hopeful more enjoyable.) As for the COL increase itself, does 0.001" make a significant enough difference in accuracy/pressure to mess with (and make constantly) or is 0.005" enough to "fine tune" a load? (I'm using digital calipers from a previous job that go to 0.0001") Now with these being plated, I've read they fall between lead and jacketed data, so if I'm not happy with my results at max lead, do I need to increase to min jacketed COL to begin increasing into the low/mid jacketed charges or am I safe between Berry's recommended 1.130" and jacketed 1.250"? Can I safely go below 1.130" with jacketed charges? Just for my general knowledge, what effect does barrel length have on velocity and pressure? Also, I'm aware of TG not being the "best choice" for new reloaders to learn with because it doesn't fill the case enough to red flag potential double or triple charges at a glance, but I like my pistol, hands, and face enough just as they are to be extra vigilant and meticulous in my process. Aka, if in doubt, dump it or pull it, and start over. Thanks!