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Posts posted by latenightlegend
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2 minutes ago, waktasz said:
If the spring is fully stacked against it self before the slide has reached its rearward travel, you get coil bind. This is something you have to check with new springs on 2011s from time to time, as you don't want the gun to bottom out on the spring.
So I can either cut spring or make a GR that is longer to prevent this?
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5 minutes ago, waktasz said:
That makes sense then. You're getting coil bind by cramming the wolf spring onto the factory rod.
Why would that happen?
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24 minutes ago, echotango said:
Mine ran originally with a modified 1911 guide rod and wolff spring until I made my own guide rod for the ismi flat wire.
bjones beat me to it.
wtf...why is this happening to me??
Why'd you switch to ismi flat wire when wolff springs worked for yah?
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On 4/21/2019 at 6:02 PM, bjones6686 said:
For those wondering this is the link for the tungsten glock guide rod. You can only use wolff recoil springs with it because of the larger diameter. It weighs 2.7oz according to technical support at NDZ
Just a heads up, any spring other than flatwires will cause the gun to bind up when trying to lock the slide back. The slide more or less just gets stuck with a wolff spring.
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1 minute ago, HoMiE said:
Always use a either a 308 Carbine/Rifle spring on blowback AR9s.
These blowbacks rely on a strong spring to keep the bolt in battery. If the bolt "unlocks" too early, it'll cause a number of issues. You want the bolt the stay forward for as long as possible to keep the gasses moving forward behind the bullet. The longer the bolt is able to stay in the "closed" position, the less dot movement you will see. Also, the violent cycling of AR9s reek havoc on trigger pins. Slower, the better. A lot top GM shooters that run AR9s tend to run heavy bolts as well. Some even use a steel weight plug between the buffer and bolt in the buffer tube, as to slow down the cyclic rate. I noticed around .02-.03 slower splits with a weight. However, it's totally worth the trade off when the dot hardly moves.
Hope this helps ya'll
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Just now, longbeard said:
LOL.
You're the guy I knew who's been through three of them. Is that 5015 publicly available yet?
Buhahah, whoops
It's not on the website just yet, but email Brian at info@nokick.com and ask for the 5015 HD by name. He'll sell you one!
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Yah, it's a thing. I've been through 3 of them already. The new 5015 HD version they have out is much much better than the 5007. Stiffer spring and better/more resistant hydraulics
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Get the JP. 5K rounds with zero issues.
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JP GMR's, Palmetto state are some common ones.
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Max did indeed use a 10.5 Faxon, permanently attached a Taccom comp and then permanently attached a steel pipe with holes drilled in it.
I wonder where he holds the rifle with all that gas blowing to the sides and top. -
Who makes that grip?
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How does running lighter steel weights affect the recoil or dot movement?
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I have compared them apples to apples and there is a very noticeable difference. Two of my friends have the JP GMR13 rifle and we all sighted them in together. I got my rifle first, so I had already run it and found the stock buffer caused lots of bolt slamming, leading to that feeling of heavier recoil and excessive dot bounce. I put the JP silent captured spring in it and it helped relieve some of the bolt slam, and a little dot bounce. With the same ammo as my friends, I had more dot bounce with every load than they did, so I bought the same JP brake theirs came with. Problem solved. I can double or triple tap plates without the dot bouncing off the plate. I'm going to try a lighter JPSCS spring and swap a tungsten weight for steel to see if I can get the overall movement down to match our 5.55 3-gun rifles which barely have any recoil feel.
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Would you want a heavier spring to reduce felt recoil?
Definitely keep us posted about tuning the SCS. I have the same issues and ordered everyone of the JP springs.
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31 round OEM mag with Taylor freelance +10 extension. 41 round mag easily gets you through any stage. You can run a 17 round for reloads if you really fudge up. For a cheaper route, 31 round mag with a 17 rounder with 1 reload on the stage isn't awful either.
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Norinco 320 SBR'd UZI clone with Primary Arms Micro Dot on a Stormwerkz rail. Taylor Freelance +10 extension on the mag.
Whoa...that is cool!
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Get the Dawson sights MOS sights. Im currently running a burris FF3 with a set of the lower 1/3 MOS sights.
I had tried the co-witness but it was a no go for me. Found myself using the front sight when I should have been watching the dot!
The 1/3 co-witness is the best of both worlds. They will be there if dot ever fails or need help tracking/picking up the dot when shooting SHO or WHO.
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Just to note, the rep did say this was pretty much the final product as you see in the pics.
The rear sight is adjustable and has NO dovetail if for shooters wanting to change sights.
Factory sights according to the rep, are .90 front, .120 rears
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Spoke to some Sig reps at the NRA show today, they said towards July this year! MSRP is $879. They did away with the U-wall by the slide release. Here's some pics!
If anyone has any other questions, please just lmk on here and I'll ask!
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For those that didn't hear. ToddG has passed away this morning. Rest in peace brother.
F**k cancer.
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I personally prefer the fixed Dawson's. The shoot POA for me.
I started with the adj rears when I was dialing in my loads, but found the rear notch to be waaayyy to shallow. So I just called Dave and he sent me the fixed rears and all was good!
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Flip a coin for a 17 or 34.
I do prefer the 34 just for the longer sight radius.
M&P Guide rod same as Walther?
in "Other" & Pistol Comparisons
Posted
Cool, thank you!