AustinMike
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Posts posted by AustinMike
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Man, that picture of Nathan is cool!
The rollover move was pretty cool too. Chet's was more entertaining, but I didn't get it on tape!
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I had something like this happen at my last match, with an IPSC cardboard target. It was the last cardboard target to shoot from between barricades before having to move to a portal with a reload. I hit two A's on another target, 3 pieces of steel, then an A and a miss on the last target. Bugged the hell out of me - couldn't see how I could have bloody well missed the damn thing all together! I think what probably happened was that my mind jumped to the next task and lost focus as the shot went off. I may have started to move to the next target or even started going for the mag release subconsiously without a complete follow through. Kind of taking the second shot for granted since I saw the first one in or something like that.
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Not with a revolver, but here's me against a Texas Star today. It jumped out of the way on the first couple shots!
It's probably the fourth time I've shot one of these sadistic things and I just started shooting in matches a couple months ago, so I'm SLOWWWW! 
A bunch of folks wanted to shoot production today, so this was with the Glock. I haven't got up the nerve to take the 625 revolver to a match yet! 
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Sweat. I have one of his V-max holsters and love it. The watch six looks very simular.
Yeah, I debated getting the V-max, but I figured I didn't need the shirt tucking feature. The reinforced top would be nice, but I wanted the holster as thin as possible. I don't wear it without the gun in it, so it isn't going to collapse. The W-6 holds it's shape fine for drawing practice. Very high quality holster for the price!
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After a 3 month wait, I finally got a Watch Six IWB holster for my Taurus PT-145 from Milt Sparks. Very nice! Thick horsehide and perfectly molded to the gun. It's even stamped PT-145 into the leather. I tried several other "generic" holsters and they just weren't comfortable. There's truly nothing like a custom holster made for your specific gun. I forget I'm wearing it.
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I was in Target with my wife the other day and noticed a "Best of Triumph The Insult Comic Dog" DVD on the sale rack. I watched it last night and it really took the edge off a hard day at work. Hilarious! It's worth it for the Stars Wars segment alone.
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Just bought a new laptop that has a dvd burner on it so I need to get some blank dvd's. I'm wondering what the difference is/if it matters which one I get.
Probably more info than you want, but here you go:
I've had good luck with DVD+R playing in most players, for what it's worth.
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I had an older Linksys (before Cisco bought them) that I discovered was corrupting data! I found the problem when uploading a video to my web site and discovered that it wouldn't play. With some troubleshooting, I found the large file was getting corrupted somehow. I started taking traces with Etherreal and through the process of elimination discovered the Linksys was the culprit.
I work as a systems test engineer and it's fairly rare to see a switch or router mangle data and throw it out the other side with a good CRC. Totally disgusting. That ain't something you want to see if you're doing some online banking! 
Interestingly, I found a newer firmware version on their site and the problem went away. No such problem was documented anywhere that I could find. Not suprising as data corruptions are very hush-hush in the industry. I'm currently running a Cisco Linksys with built-in wireless without issue. -
I've been using Clays for a while in .45, mostly 230gr., with some 200gr. bullets. I've been shooting Ranier plated bullets, but I'm switching over to Precision coated bullets. I've found Clays to be very clean, with mild recoil. It leaves behind a little soot, which wipes off with a paper towel.
I tried Titegroup, but didn't really like it too much. Recoil is sharper, the bang is louder, the gun is dirtier, and the cases get so hot I burn myself if I pick them up to soon. In 230gr., I thought it was especially dirty and left a dusting on my forearms. It did better with 200gr. From what I've read, it sounds like Titegroup does its best in higher pressure rounds like .40 or 9mm.
I plan to try N310 in the near future to compare against Clays. My only gripe with Clays is that the large flakes MAY cause metering issues. I've had flakes work their way between the powder bar and the housing on my 550B before and jam things up. That rarely happens though and may have something to do with the weather. I unfortunately have to keep my reloading bench in the hot & humid garage. Yes, the powder measure gets emptied after I'm done and powder is stored inside!
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Sorry to hear of your loss. I remember when my grandfather passed away. I was devastated. He was the man who taught me to shoot as a young child. He always took the time to explain things to me and treated me like an adult. I remember asking him how a gun works and he went so far as to take a round from his rifle apart to show me each component! He was an honorable, gentle man. He taught me to love God, family, and country.
A stroke took his life, but not immediately. He lived for about 3 months, bedridden and unable to speak. That was so hard to see. I was living out of state at the time and didn't get to spend the time I would have liked with him in his last days, something I've always regretted. The last time I saw him in the hospital, I said goodbye before I had to go home again. I somehow knew it would be the last time I'd see him alive. Although he couldn't speak, the look in his eyes told me that he was ready to die and it was time for me to go on.
He was an Air Force veteran and served our country in World War II and the Korean war. My grandmother gave me his well-worn Bible and his trusty M1 Carbine. He gave me a lifetime of memories.
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I've been using a little USB flash drive / mp3 player for the past couple years. Mine has 512MB and it shows up as a hard drive on a computer with no drivers needed. You just drag your songs to it and off you go. You can dump data files to it too, just like a regular flash drive. The one I have is some "no name" brand (no manufacturer listed on it, that I can see.) Simple jog wheel control and limited functionality, no display on this one. Doesn't bother me. I use mine mostly on my motorcycle and it slips into a pocket on my tank panel. Looks and feels cheap, but it's still ticking after 2 years or so. It was around $100 at the time, IIRC.
Got mine here at the time, but I don't see my particular model out there anymore: http://www.komusa.com/usbmp3players.html
I think I go through cell phones like Eric goes through mp3 players. 'Course I don't throw my mp3 players for losing my connection either.
I'm surprised my Nokia still works after a year, I've abused that P.O.S. so much. 
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I keep trying to convince Mike that the best start loads for any fast powder are arrived at by dipping the case into the powder and brushing the excess off the top..... he's not buying it.....
Dipping a case...please! Everybody knows a soup ladle is the fastest way to dispense powder into a .45 case!
Just kiddin', of course!!!!!!!
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I've been shooting Clays for a while and have been thinking of trying VV N310 to see if the grass really is greener. I spent some time searching (really!) through the forum here and noticed that the load data for N310 with 230gr. bullets seems to be close to the VV load guide, but loads posted for 200gr. bullets seem WAY hot. Looks like a common load is ~4.5gr. under 200gr SWC. The VV load guide I have (Jan. 2004 pamphlet) lists a min.\max. range of 3.7-4.0gr. for a 200gr. LSWC! That's not a lot of room to play in and it seems like quite a few folks are passing the max. considerably!
Is N310 and 200gr. bullets really pushing the limit that much to make major? I've just got in a shipment of Precision coated bullets in 200gr. and 230gr. RFP. Any suggestions on good starting points, particularly for 200gr. lead, to make major with a 5" 1911 Limited 10 gun?
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I notice that at closer ranges (out to 10 yds) I have no problem keeping most of my shots in a 4 inch bull. Outside of that, they tend to drift up to 5 inches or so in an 8 o'clock manner from the bull.
I feel your pain. I totally blew an Outer Limits steel stage due to this a few weeks back, so I'm determined to lick this problem. My "trick of the day" lately has been to get my left thumb up under the frame in the nook where the trigger guard meets the bottom of the frame, with the thumb pointing at the target. This seems to help prevent gun movement and my trigger can run along my left thumb through the trigger guard, giving it a straight edge of sorts to prevent any hooking or "milking."
The other thing that I've been working on is making sure I see the front sight lift after I pull the trigger. You'll see that over and over again out here. It does work. If you don't see the gun lift in recoil from where you were aiming, the bullet didn't go where you were aiming.
Make sure you fire your gun from a solid rest and verify where it's hitting. That will put to rest any concern over equipment issues. Good luck!
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Mike - Like Hopalong said, it's a personal thing. One thing we need to know is whether you have a newer (round butt) or an older (square butt) 625.
Thanks for the info, that helps a lot. My 625 is the round butt variety.
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There is a thread or two here on the Revolver forum about grips, just do a little looking and you will find many "ideas".
Yeah, I've been poking around through the forum. Hadn't seen anything about the Compac grip. Hard to tell when window shopping on the web, but I'm wondering if it's similar in size to the Miculek grips?
Thanks,
Mike
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I'm looking around for grips for my newly acquired 625. It's got Pachmayr Grippers on there now, but I hate finger grooves. The Presentation grips look a little bulky to me. Has anybody tried the Pachmayr Compac Grips? Those look promising (in pictures.) I'm considering Miculek grips too, but I'm not sure I want wood grips. Any other suggestions for "groove-less" grips?
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I've got a cheap steel workbench that I got on sale at Sears. It works pretty good, IMO. Of course, anything works better than the old portable Midway stand that I used to use in my apartment dwelling days.
I've got my 550b bolted down on a strong mount and it doesn't move. 
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They've got great deals on Glock rebuilds at this site with full factory warranty - $365 for G17 or G22 with 3 mags. I've got a G17 on the way.
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I just bought the I-shot tournament revolver bag. I like the layout a lot and it's setup for revolver or semi-auto (mag and loaded moon clip holders.) I almost didn't buy it because of the plastic rings and shoulder strap clips. I was assured that they would replace anything that would break and supposedly any problems are few and far between. My only other beef was that the brass pouch that comes with it is ridiculously small. I bought their large bag at the same time to solve that problem. I was close to buying the SC, but it's too big to fit in my motorcycle's trunk
. The I-shot just fits! -
Well, I decided to try a Glock 17. Found a dealer with a stock of factory rebuilds and they come with 3 new 17rd. mags. These are the 2nd generation frames, which I like better (no finger grooves for me.) They have the full lifetime factory warranty. Not a bad price at $365 and I've got one on the way. Here's the link, in case anybody else is interested. Check out the Glock 17 rebuilds. He's got Glock 22 as well.
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One thing I started thinking about...the sight radius on the Glock 17 should be almost equal to my 5" 1911 and 5" 625 revolver (I think.) That might be a good thing for going back and forth between guns. The longer radius on the 34 would allow a little more slop in the sighting, that would hurt on a shorter gun. Or is that just splitting hairs at steel distances?
I'd be using just a regular Kydex holster, at least for the forseeable future.
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I've read where some people say that the longer barrels have more muzzle flip, which I'm not understanding. I'd expect the opposite with the extra weight. But then again, Glock has carved a good chunk out of the slide. What do ya'll think about recoil. Any real difference?
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I'm considering picking up a Glock to have something economical to shoot for steel competitions (and maybe occasional IPSC) so I can get out there more often. I normally shoot .45 in a 1911, but it takes time to reload and the costs run up there even with reloading. I was thinking a 9mm should be good steel plinker since power factor isn't an issue and the ammo is so cheap (I wouldn't be reloading for 9mm.) I'm thinking of either the Glock 17 or 34. The 34 feels more balanced in my hand (empty anyway.) I'm not sure that the extra barrel length of the 34 offers any benefit in steel shooting (except maybe an Outer Limits stage?) The slide and mag releases aren't particularly important in steel to me either. Is the trigger that much better? Any other compelling reasons to go with a 34 over the 17?
Thanks...
It's probably the fourth time I've shot one of these sadistic things and I just started shooting in matches a couple months ago, so I'm SLOWWWW! 
A bunch of folks wanted to shoot production today, so this was with the Glock. I haven't got up the nerve to take the 625 revolver to a match yet! 
I work as a systems test engineer and it's fairly rare to see a switch or router mangle data and throw it out the other side with a good CRC. Totally disgusting. That ain't something you want to see if you're doing some online banking! 
Interestingly, I found a newer firmware version on their site and the problem went away. No such problem was documented anywhere that I could find. Not suprising as data corruptions are very hush-hush in the industry. I'm currently running a Cisco Linksys with built-in wireless without issue.
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Try the "Cactus" approach next time.
http://www.phonelosers.org/tech_support.html