JatCarver
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Posts posted by JatCarver
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Thanks for the info. I almost bought one of these a year ago but just wasn't enogh info om them. If I was local I would have tried it out but didn't want any headaches since I'm in a different country. Ended up using a dillon with upgraded motor which is finicky to say the least. Will probably get one of these in the future once some more feed back comes out.
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On 12/5/2019 at 8:10 PM, chevrofreak said:
The Feedinator showed up. Here is a video of it keeping up with my Rollsizer at 6,100 rounds per hour.
How much have you ran so far and whats the rate of jams?
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Ordered one also, while my rf100 seems to work better than most I've had the electronics fail twice in about 20k primers which is getting old.
Looking forward to when someone designed a kit to mount it on the press, that would be sweet.
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Thanks for the input, I already had a few more of the factory 12lb coming so I'll try those again and also ordered a couple 13lb variable Wolff to try.
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1 hour ago, CZ173 said:
I had issues with a Zev glock 34 that needed all Springs changed every 500 to 1k rounds.
Get some high quality 1911 springs next
Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
What weight Wolff 1911 springs have people had good results with in the X5s?
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Anyone else get really short life from the 12lb spring that comes with the legion?
After 2k rounds and with a clean gun it doesn't have enough force to go into battery all the time.
When shooting one handed it barely goes into battery.
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I’ve had a older(back when there was only one version)mark 7 for a few years now.
I’ve mostly only ran it at 1000-1200 max because that where it seemed to work best. Always had issues when going faster.
Recently I’ve spent some time getting everything sorted out and now I can run it at 1800(actually speed, dwell and index set at 0) loading 9 minor. It actually seems slow now, everything is running so well I think it could easily go faster but my machine is not able to.
Do you guys with the 2100-2400 or even 3500 rph 1050 PRO version find that it is capable of using these speeds?
I'm considering getting the upgrade.
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I have a bunch of them and they are very convenient. Worth while upgrade for sure!
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On 4/11/2019 at 1:17 PM, Tom S. said:
Seems like every time I come to this site, it costs me money!
Fact
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Ok, so I adjusted the trigger bar springs as per that link(thanks) and no change in the issue.
I made a video of the problem.
Something I noticed. I only have to just barely pull back on the hammer for it to function in SA.
Also, if I pull back on the hammer to "set" it and then rack the slide it goes back to the same issue of needing to be set.
Any thoughts?
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20 minutes ago, mveto said:
Here is the doc I received from CGW on how to adjust the trigger bar spring
Thanks! I'll check that tonight.
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4 minutes ago, SouperMan said:
Check the trigger bar and trigger bar spring. Trigger bar too low no reset. To high no release I think.
Thanks.
Is this something that is adjustable?
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Hello, picked up a new Shadow 2 OR. Installed the "75800" kit from CGW with the add on reach reduction parts.
After assembly the trigger works in DA mode and in SA when I manually pull the hammer back with my finger.
However if I rack the slide to cock the hammer or if I drop the hammer by pulling the trigger and keep the trigger depressed and rack the slide I get a dead trigger.
If I manually pull the hammer back just a bit more it will then act as it should.
It's like the new hammer doesn't engage the slide enough to be fully cocked.
I plan to call CGW on monday but thought I would chack here as maybe this is a simple thing I'm overlooking.
Thanks
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Old thread I know.
Anyone have feed back with the springs?
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This happens a lot on the 1050s. Glad you got it sorted out.
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Did I see a video where someone replaced the pins on their Rollsizer with some kind of springs?
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For the guys using Wolff 1911 springs, are you using variable or standard Wolff springs?
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On 9/19/2019 at 10:59 PM, CDRNorth said:
Mine was 3.75lbs with the gg kit and trigger. With the Keres, it is 4.25lbs. Taken from the middle of the trigger shoe.
After adjusting the screws, there is virtually no take up and the total trigger travel is 1/8 inch.
Perfect!
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1 hour ago, CDRNorth said:
I just installed mine, last night, and it is fantastic. Have a gg kit in my pistol.
Interesting, is the pull weight still above 3lb with the GG guts? Looking to keep it IPSC production legal.
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Quick question. Is the in the guide rod in the legion that takes 1911 springs shiny stainless steel or does it have a black appearance?
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On 7/13/2017 at 11:56 AM, andersonj55126 said:
Here are a few pics of my build.
Grip by Alma
I have tungsten guide rod, base plate and optic mount from Springer.
CELTS trigger by Greyguns
RHT holster
So far I am very impressed with this gun.
Is this grip tape or carbide?
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1 minute ago, mellino19 said:
I probably should've read and replied to this more than 10 minutes after waking up.
Yes the thread pitch you will need is the same as the R1 (6-48 as mentioned) just a little longer as you said (3/4"). What I meant to say originally is that the R1 screws won't work with the DPP because of length (as we've discussed) but also the head type - R1 uses a fillister head screw to clamp the optic down in the screw hole/pocket of the optic while the DPP uses a weaver oval head so the tapered head clamps down on the optic that way.
Sorry for any confusion.
Gotcha, thanks!
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Would it not be the same thread pitch as it is when used with the R1 but just longer? Since the screw holes aren’t changing... or what am I missing?
I don’t have my X5 yet, just bought a used one yesterday and want to put a DPP on it as soon as it arrives. I have a mill.
Thanks
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So just to clarify, all that has to be done to fit a DPP on a X5 is open mill the front of the pocket forward a bit?
Sig320 X5 Legion trigger vs Grey Guns trigger
in Sig
Posted
Installed the following combo last night in a X5 legion: This legion was over 5lbs factory and quite mushy.
GG kit w/flat trigger
Factory Trigger bar spring
Apex Forward trigger bar and over travel stop
Big improvement over factory.
New pull weight is 3lb 12oz which is fine as I need 3lb + for IPSC.
Trigger shoe is moved forward which is good got me as I have big hands, always ran long triggers in my 2011's.
Less over travel
Break is much better, less mushy, better wall.
I'm ok if this setup but want to experiment with trying to get and better "wall and snap like break".
Has anyone done anything to give them more of a crisper break? I might try too file a little bit more of a negative angle interface on the striker where it contacts the sear.