rick t
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Posts posted by rick t
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My bench is solid too, I had the same problem with 45acp and cured it by a brace to the upright the collator is mounted on to the wall. Someone on here said the collator was shaking, never would have believed it but it worked!
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I don't know about Molly bullets and it would depend on how big the bevel on the base is, they say it will run plated bullets. If space was not a issue heck, yes, less moving parts means less chance of things fouling up!
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With the RCBS bullet feeder you lose a die and I like to run powder check and taper crimp die. I did run some with the RCBS die and worked fine, no problem with the bullet when it indexes. The Lee holds the bullet up in the mouth of the die, then the case picks it up on the way to seat the bullet with no loss of a die. The collator won't work with cast bullets and makes a mess out of it!
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Hope I did it right! The picture isn't that good but you can get the idea.
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I tried it and it works like a charm! To mate the two together, I just took a piece of 1/2" PVC, turned one end to fit the bullet feeder, the other to fit the tube adapter on the collator, milled a slot so I can see bullets. Turned it on and started making ammo!
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So a X-DIE is the same as a Redding full length sizing with neck bushing die with the neck tension controlled by the bushing not expander ball?
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When you use a RCBS X-DIE where is the brass going that would normally be trimmed?
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Cheap yes the only one that does what I want is the GSI and that comes in at $700. That is more than I paid for my 650 when I got it. I don't want to give up my powder check or taper crimp die.
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Real Estate on a 650 die head is too valuable to lose one position to a bullet dropper. With a Lee Bullet Feeder you would spend as much time filling those little tubes as placing the bullet on by hand. So what if the RCBS Bullet Collator is incorporated into the mix? Any thoughts? Anyone think it would work?
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On the trim dies I have there is enough neck sticking out of the top of the trim die you could back the die out a little just like with a full length sizing die and not size the whole case.
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Hi Neal in AZ do you use yours manually or have one of the Hornady or RCBS dies? I stop at the full down stroke and manually dump the powder. Worls great on 600yd stuff!
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Lee Disk Powder Measure and 550 setup with a Redding BR 30 on my 650.
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I was loading 45acp with Win. 231 and it happened to me. There was a piece of paper in the powder! Called Win. they wanted the lot number then and sent a UPS pickup for the powder and paper (it had been in the powder a long time by the looks of it). A couple weeks later I got a letter of apology with a check in it for a replacement can.
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I hope they are sending you the gauges to realign the shellplate carrier?
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I have taught alot of people to reload in the last 30 years and I tell them "No question is a stupid one if you don't know the answer" on the other hand if it is the same one every time! Check the prices on the upgrade kits and do the math. I myself would wait and give yourself the best present of your life!!!!!!!!!!
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Any spring within reason will work. I have a couple I cut from a one that is a little bigger in diameter and only one fits and works just fine. Remember it is just a return spring.
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I had a extra hopper and just J-B Welded it on top of another one with the baffles in opposing directions. I was loading 300 win. mag. and got tired of filling it every 100 rds. I did that years ago and never had a problem with variation.
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Like I said Graham they work great I still have them on my powder measures except one. I just wanted to let you know about the micrometer one it is the best. I think I got my knobs at a Sentry Hardware so check in with the nuts & bolts even in the small stores. The clerks had no idea what I wanted so I looked for myself.
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I did all that with the plastic slip on things they work and work well. Then I broke down and got one of Lee Loves (Unique Tek) micrometer adjustments for my powder bar. I was sceptical whether it would work as he said guess what it works better! It is definitely worth the $50 he charges. I have one on a rifle charge bar and will get one for a pistol charge bar when it is time to load pistol. http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1231
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I bought a 650 for my first and only progressive press. The best move I ever made!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I had the same problem years ago and fixed it the same way you did.
Rick
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I was having problems with my new RF-100. WSPM primers would get stuck under the stabilizer plate in the last inch before dropping into the tube. It appeared that the anvils were sticking against the small bump on the bottom of the "A" stabilizer plate. I carefully removed that bump, but that only led to flipped primers (I'd get 2-3 upside-down per 100).
I called Dillon and told them what happened. They sent me a new plate. I put it in and it did the same sticking thing. Knowing that not having the bump at all was causing flipped primers and having the bump was catching the primers, I decided to try a "mid-range fix".
I took a target paster and stuck it to the bottom of the stabilizer plate, just enough to lift the plate approximately .010 inch. I cut out a hole in the paster for the screw, trimmed off the excess, and re-attached it. The thickness of the paster was enough to lift the stabilizer and allow the anvils to clear.
The machine will now perfectly load a 100 primer tube in 35-40 seconds, consistently.
I thought about switching to the "B" stabilizer. That may work, but what I made by grinding off the bump was essentially a "B" stabilizer, so I don't know if I would have still had the flipping problem.
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You can put a 550 powder die and funnel on your 650 and use it to seat without removing the case from the press. ( I think it is a 550 die if that's wrong someone will corect me) I do that on my long line stuff.
Rick
RCBS Bullet Collator Lee Bullet Feeder
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
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Is that better? It is not a expensive camera but it works for what I want it for. I put a white background in to try and show more detail.