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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

TDA

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  1. It is really really easy to get sucked into the trap of seeing the sights where you want it and pulling your eyes off as you yank the trigger twice, and then you have no idea where those shots really went.

    I've been shooting about 3-4 years and just starting figuring this stuff out this year.

    Isn't that the truth!

    I was at the range this morning and someone next to me was shooting into the grass ten feet in front of them when aiming at a steel plate 15 yds away.

    I've never seen anyone pull the muzzle down that far when pressing the trigger, and then asking if they hit it!

  2. Diameter of the bullets can also have a lot of bearing on how accurate they are. For years I've been using 130 gr LSWC which mike at .359 to .360. Thought I'd try some coated and they mike .356 and are horribly inaccurate, shot some more of the LSWC and back to excellent accuracy. No crimp on either, just straighten the case walls so they match a straight edge. Same brass, same load, same primers and OAL.

    I just looked at Blue Bullets and what they they sell are .355" 9mm and .400" 40/10mm.

    Doesn't make much sense to me!

  3. Absocold, the ramp I cut is a little longer and deeper then the one you show in the picture. Sounds like that might be the problem. Maybe I'll weld and re machine it back to flat. I should have added that I'm only shooting round nose factory ammo @125ish pf. I'll try a #7 or #8 spring but with the comp. I don't know if it will cycle. I polished the ramps by hand, I didn't want to change the angle of the ramps I read that you really have to be careful with the ramps. Thanks for the info so far.

    The ramp (if you really need it) only needs to be in the center, and no wider than the disconnector.

  4. Ok so ai must ask again why not have your finger on trigger guard? I have used this technique as long as I can remember it just feels right. And I feel like I have more control.

    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

    My guess is that it is condemned by many shooters because it is subjective to finger length and is not a "universal" grip technique. Those who don't do it claim that the finger on the trigger guard "steers" the gun and can cause the muzzle to wander upon recoil. That's probably true, because their finger is just too short to wrap around the trigger guard and they end up pushing the guard to the side rather than pulling straight back.

    If your finger is long enough to wrap around the guard and pull straight back it probably works pretty well judging from some of the shooters that have employed the technique!

    I have large hands and long fingers and after reading all of the "don't ever do that" comments I immediately went to the range and tried it with my Glock 27 and wondered why I hadn't tried that before!

  5. 2.6gr of Clays with a 147gr cast bullet started to flatten the primers. I load pretty long too. I stopped there, and started backpeddling.

    What OAL was that?

    I've used 3.2 of Clays at 1.140 (RNFP) with no issues.

  6. I use the bulge buster.

    The trick is to start the case mouth up into the die while holding it with your fingers and then bring the ram up to meet it and push it through.

    Placing the case on the ram and then trying to get it to start into the die is a waste of time.

  7. That's what I do as well.

    I never leave powder in the hopper, cases in the case feeder, or primers in the magazine.

    I know how many rounds I will be loading and set the machine up accordingly.

    It seems as though a number of people leave their machines loaded up and ready to go though so all they do is walk up and pull the handle.

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