Don_B
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Posts posted by Don_B
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18 hours ago, JodiH said:
Like I said before, it almost always is a false start. Creeping is when the competitor happens to start moving the same time the RO presses the button (due to human reaction time, most movement happens at end of beep or after). If the RO sees movement before, then it's stop and start over. If the RO is not 100% sure the movement was creeping, then don't call it (as with all our other calls). We (Zack Jones and NROI) are open to member comments/suggestions on this. And yes, the same cadence for each string that we teach encourages folks to try and jump the timer. That's why a random cadence would be better, but that is not how the SCSA rules are written.
Movement after the start button is pushed is definitely not creeping!
It is quite normal for reaction time around .20-.18 seconds. You can test it yourself with a timer.
So if a competitor reacts at .18 after the button is pushed. He did not creep he reacted to the start sound. How can that be penalized?? -
A Qtip is just the right size to clean the tube. Use the plastic follower rod to push it thru. They will get quite a bit of primer residue in them.
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It is a pretty simple process to mill a frame for a ramped barrel. See if you can find someone to do that.
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In the southwest we have a LOT of dust and sand therefor if I drop a mag I will clean it. Only run a brush thru it and always run my mags dry. Any kind of lube will attract and hold dirt. Except dry lube.
At least one person I helped get onto the shooting game decided not to clean the mags. Everything went fine for a while and then random jams started. Seemed to quit when the mags were cleaned.
I consider it preventative maintenance and insurance. Bottom line is no you don't have to but you might want to. Takes about 30 seconds.
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Unless there is a new method to install the carbide yes it will wear down and lose the grip. At least that was my experience in the past. It did take several years tho.
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115 JHP in stock again.
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MG 115 JHP in stock now.
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There is another thread on here about the same thing.
Most responses were to throw them in them in the recycling bin. But someone said to get a different decapping pin.
Might be some info there if you want to search. -
Definitely don't mess with the link!
If it feeds good and is reliable there is no need to mess with it. But if it bothers you too much then file the bottom of the ramp where it overhangs. Right where the flats are.
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It depends on what size ports you are doing. On my older Infinity hybrid barrel the ports are .180. Two of those make a noticeable difference on 9 major.
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I'm sure they did it like that to have the proper headspace.
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Actually I have had this happen several times also. Just remove it and keep going. Never have figure out how it happens.
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On 7/21/2023 at 8:19 AM, IHAVEGAS said:
Can anyone expand on that? I shoot production at about 130pf with range pick up brass, much of it shot through open guns at USPSA matches.
I have found several split cases after shooting and tossed them in the scrap pile but have never detected any indication that the case splitting made any difference to accuracy or reliability. Now I load till they spilt and just don't worry about it.
What happens bad when a brass case splits in an open gun?
9 major at 170 pf and 130 pf loads are 2 totally different loads. Split cases usually don't cause much trouble in either one.
9 major requires a much stronger case. If the case is not strong enough to contain the pressures then you have a case rupture. Which is bad.
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I have been shooting 9 major for over 10 years, started when it was allowed by USPSA.
So I learned the hard way that 9 major and random range pick up brass do not play well together. I will use mixed brass for practice but with about a 145-150 pf.
For matches that require major I use known brass, Win, FC, RP, Blazer. Even this brass will bulge after a while. A roll sizer is the only way I have found to fix this.
I am very careful with my match brass, I will use once fired brass and only load it once before I use it for a big match.
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Years ago my RL1050 did it so many times even with red loctite so I finally drilled and tapped a hole and put a set screw in it to keep the bolt from loosening up.
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Gun mag warehouse has Mecgar 11rd 45 mags.
They also show 15 rd mags but out of stock. They would probably be too long. -
29 minutes ago, shred said:
Nice description & pictures Bob!
Absolutely! By a professional.
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3 hours ago, Don_B said:
I will try to get some pics later that show how and where.
Ok I tried to add a photo but as usual it is too large. If you will give me your email or phone number I will send you what I have. It is pretty self explanatory.
Also if you haven't already tried to peen it don't use an anvil!!! You will need a vise.
I have done this to several safeties and have never seen one wear out. -
I will try to get some pics later that show how and where.
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If it a small amount off you can peen the contact point on the safety and make it work.
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Available now
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They are ARE a pain!
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They had 124 JHP this morning. About 2-3 times a week I see them available around 7:00-7:15 am.
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16 minutes ago, usmc1974 said:
Holy s#!t, last 8 pounder I bought, A couple of years ago was 235. H4350
Probably bought some $35 a thousand primers at the same time!
1050s Priming Issue
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Make sure you don't tighten the nut on top of the primer tube. It needs to be slightly loose.
I put a little bit of lead in the 45 case I have on the primer rod. Fill it maybe half full.