Scottie

I’m in Charlottesville for about 6 weeks with a ton of free time and was curious if there are any ranges where a shooter can set up some targets and draw from a holster.

Thanks for the recommendation. It looks like they had their last match on 11/26 and don’t open again until March. I hope it’s not the case, but it looks like most everything shuts down for the winter.

I'm working near Wheeling, WV and was hoping to get some information on local USPSA matches. I've found some clubs on the NE Ohio Shooters website, but it looks like they are all shut down for the winter. I would definitely travel to the Pittsburgh area or anywhere within a few hours drive. Scott

I finally got around to trying it and was pretty successful. I have 6# striker spring that is 1 year old and it had no problem lighting CCI 400 primers for approximately 50 rounds of practice ammo. However, in the last stage of a match I had 2 light strikes. I think two things contributed to this: my 6# spring doesn't allow for much error and my loads are dirty, which may have caused sticking in the striker channel. I plan to try the 7# blue Glock striker spring and don't think there will be any more issues.

I will sort brass so I can control oal, but I think the Lyman size die is too loose for my AlphWolf barrel. I also don't like the idea of throwing away brass, so I plan to try a Lee undersize die. Hopefully that will work for CBC brass too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for letting me know. I didn't know what to do about it and I really don't want to use a Lee factory crimp with black bullets because I don't want to crush the projectiles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I seem to have a good idea which headstamps won't work for me, so I'll have to sort them until I resolve the issue. I'm using Lyman dies on a Lock n Load progressive.

Thanks, it's good to hear from another person with the same issue. My issues were mainly with CBC headstamp brass, but there were a handful of others that didn't chamber. I load 45 and never have an issue, so I was pretty surprised to have so many failures. I wonder if there is a DIY method for opening chambers.

I forgot to add some details. I'm using an AlfaWolf barrel for a Glock and loading BBI 147 grain FP bullets to an OAL of 1.13. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am curious to see if anyone else is having problems with certain head stamps not clambering. I just setup Lyman 4 piece dies and am using once fired range brass. I've found that certain head stamps won't chamber and I can tell which ones won't go in advance because there is increased resistance when they go through the size die. The expander doesn't work quite as well on them either and the brass is thicker. Is this common and if so, will a Lee Factory crimp die solve the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input. Next reloading session, I think I'll be cautious and load with CCI 400s and test it out in my Glock and small primer 45 in my 1911. And like 57K said, I probably don't need SRMs for my 223 either, so CCI 400s all around.

Yeah, it's probably best to just get to it. I know people have been successful with regular SRPs and perhaps that extra 0.005 in cup thickness for the magnums won't be an issue...

Thanks for the reply. I read magnum primers may be hotter as well, but that it's not much of a change in minor loads. I am mostly curious about any negative effect from increased cup thickness.

I would like to simplify reloading and use the same primers for my Glock and AR. I was just curious if anyone has experience using CCI 450 primers with a Glock or other striker fired pistol. The gun has a factory striker with a 6 lb spring.

The 'airsoft' knock off shotshell holders probably did some damage to their business as well. http://www.tbairsoft.com/shell-holder-8708q-tb1103-free-shipping-p-4884.html

I agree with rboyes about throwing out the bad magazine. I monopod all the time and never had a malfunction from it so I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter how you go about it.

I have a trap club nearby and would like to know how to set this up but I can't visualize it.

Thanks, that's one I was looking at in the past but never tried. I'm glad you have experience with a Titan because they do work well. I think I'll give the Rolling Thunder a try. I recall a youtube video on how to tune them as well.

Ok, well I don't want whatever you are using!

I am curious to see if anyone has experience with a Titan on a 223 and replaced it with something that performs as well and is significantly quieter. I know all brakes are loud, but the Titans seem extra loud. I'm just looking to do anything I can to preserve my hearing a bit.

Thanks for the information and the heads up on the LC brass. My local wally world still has ZQI M80 for $10, so I keep collecting their brass.

You bring up a good point that perhaps real world results will differ from calculations. I was just going by Hodgdon and Nosler load data, but I trust your experience and it makes sense to give it a try. I also clipped the Hodgdon data with a Barnes 110 gr projectile and the Nosler data with Varmageddon 110 gr to show why I thought it might need compressed. The Hodgdon data is with a Winchester case and the Nosler data is of course using a Nosler case. Nosler lists the Nosler case volume as 52.0 gr of water and a Nato case at 50.3.

I have a decent amount of NATO brass and very little commercial brass, so I am interested in trying compressed loads in NATO brass with lighter projectiles for my AR 308. Specifically, I would like to shoot a 110 grain bullet at a relatively high velocity using IMR 8208. On Nosler's load data, I noticed the casual mention of compressed loads at perhaps 102-105%, but no real discussion about it. Are there guidelines for max powder compression and are there any issues to look out for? The idea is to use loads suitable for commercial brass in a NATO case, which is hopefully not too crazy.

I'm not 100% on this, but I believe high power competitions at smaller ranges utilize reduced size targets to simulate shooting at greater distances. I am curious what formula is used. For example, how would someone determine the equivalent of a 6 inch round target at 600 yards, when shooting at 100 yards?

Cases would be another way to possibly save some cash. Has anyone found new steel cases for sale and if so, do they cost less than once fired brass?