ArrDave
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Posts posted by ArrDave
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Get a trigger pull gauge on your order so you can go in small increments (testing along the way).
or make your own by duct-taping a ziploc bag to a plastic coat hanger. I just keep putting bullets in the bag until the trigger breaks, repeat a couple times, then weight the whole mess (coat hangar included). It gets repeatable accurate results on the cheap for folks that only do this sort of thing once or twice.
Or use a luggage scale with a hook if you got one handy. My luggage scale was accurate enough to measure the 6 lb pull on my stock Rock Island .45 and the lightened 4.25 lb pull after I installed the C&S drop-in kit.
From what I read on the S&W E-Series, it was supposed to have a stock 4 lb trigger pull. What happened to the OP's E-series gun?
I'm supposed to receive my spings tomorrow. Between the C&S sear spring and a hammer spring kit I can hopefully bring it down into the 4's.
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DO NOT inhale the fibres from G10 material
Mick
true. same can be said of walnut and any number of woods.
So you're telling me I have mesothelioma now? I held my breath for the most part. Thought about getting my respirator, but it was late and I didn't. Hopefully I don't pay for this one later!
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Get a trigger pull gauge on your order so you can go in small increments (testing along the way).
or make your own by duct-taping a ziploc bag to a plastic coat hanger. I just keep putting bullets in the bag until the trigger breaks, repeat a couple times, then weight the whole mess (coat hangar included). It gets repeatable accurate results on the cheap for folks that only do this sort of thing once or twice.
This is brilliant. Thanks for the tip!
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I am putting in a midway order today so I'll get a guinea pig sear spring and start there. I'd honestly be happy with about 4-4.5# pull. The trigger is again "OK", not great but not bad. As far as a practice gun is concerned I don't mind having it need a little more attention to trigger pull.
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You need to understand the spring has nothing to do with how low the trigger pull can be adjusted.
What matters is the quality and geometry of the sear, disco, and hammer.
You can get jigs and correct for geometry, but you can't make the parts harder (allowing more aggressive geometry) or fit better (pin holes could be sloppy).
If you want a good trigger job, step one is to get the best ignition kit you can. C&S, SV, and EGW all make great base parts that will fit properly.
The C&S will basically drop in, assuming pins fit well. The others will need fitting, but the quality is at least as good.
Proper pins is step 2... use drill rod for perfect fit.
Step 3 is addressing the sear/hammer geometry. It's not worth doing this work at all if your parts are junk.
Step 4 is bending the sear spring to get the pull as low as you want. If you start here, you'll get hammer follow and potentially full auto problems. If you do the geometry on parts that aren't perfect fitting and super hard, you'll get these problems as your geometry wears into brokenness. That's why this is step 4, not step 1.
The best sear spring you can get is the colt part. Everybody just repackages that anyways. SV makes a titanium one, but I'm not convinced it makes any difference.
Step 5 is test like hell.
Optionally, you can replace the trigger and bow itself if the stock fit is not good. This is not often necessary, though. If your stock trigger is very heavy, you'll get doubles at low pull weights, but I don't think any manufacturer is even making heavy triggers anymore (since it's such a major safety issue).
My suggestion to you is to go buy the rest of a C&S kit (sear/hammer/disco) and then start from there. It's 99% likely you won't need to adjust the geometry with that.
On your next trigger job go buy sear/hammer stoning jigs and start with EGW parts.
If you want better than that, then you're going to need an optical comparator, so let's just not go there.
That makes sense, but the fitted/stoned kits are like $180 which are a bit out of my budget for now. I'll seriously consider this, just not right away.
The sear spring does affect trigger pull, but not 100%. One leaf of the spring pushes on the trigger bow, one on the sear so both of those springs contribute directly to trigger pull weight.
A significant part of trigger pull weight is caused by the sear pulling past the hammer hooks and in the process, deflecting the hammer slightly rearward. So the mainspring (hammer spring) as well as the sear cuts affect trigger pull.
HOWEVER:
You can't just bend the sear spring any amount you want to lighten the pull. If you get too light, you can get hammer follow.
If you want to learn about the 1911, the best books are shown below. the Wilson manual is $10 and worth it's weight in gold.
Kuhnhausen 1911 Manuals (two volumes)
Wilson 1911 Manual
That's probably a good starting point, I'll definitely check it out.
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Hat, food & beverages.
Bag or box to pick up fired, muddy cartridge cases.
Lost brass match
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Since its IDPA I would just stay home.
OK,OK shower cap for gun, garbage bag for range bag, lots of socks and extra shoes
If USPSA had local week night matches nearby worth a darn I would shoot it, can't do much of the only on weekends matches with my current family situation, I might get 2 major matches a year and a weekly week night club shoot. As it is in my area IDPA is more accommodating.
Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.
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I am shooting the Alabama State IDPA match this weekend, current forecast is thunderstorms all day... Any tips for inclement weather shooting? Going to have a poncho and an umbrella on hand, not sure about footwear... May go get some inexpensive cleats. Any other tips worth mentioning? I will be shooting a 1911 with Dan Wessons duty finish and VZ grips so I am pretty confident in my ability to grip the gun while wet and not overly worried about water hurting it. What am I missing?
Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.
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It'd be going on a S&W E series. It's not my primary competition gun, I got it to be a backup to my Valor heaven forbid it should have a stoppage. I've swapped out every part there is to swap on a Glock before, but interested in becoming knowledgeable on "real" guns. As it is the Valor's trigger is way way nicer.
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Just noticed the general gunsmithing subforum... Can someone move this?
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I'm no gunsmith, as evidenced by the title of this thread, but I'm looking at lightening the factory pull of my new E Series. Yes, I could go pay a gunsmith for a good trigger job but am excited about the prospect of doing some of this myself as I'm new to the 1911 platform and have not had either gun apart entirely yet. I've watched the videos in detail stripping and I am confident that I am capable of at least getting them apart and put back together. So the question: I'm thinking about one of these Cylinder & Slide Sear Springs and a lightened mainspring (19# to match my Dan Wesson Valor which comes stock with a 19# MS).
Is this something I can do as a hobbyist or better to just let my gunsmith take care of it?
Can you good folks point me to "the best" resources on educating myself on this?
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just got back from the gun store looking at commanders... I have to say next to the Dan Wesson the S&W E SC series felt the best. I liked the base line SC and not the performance center from a trigger perspective. Throw some grips on one of those and it's "done". Obviously didn't shoot any of them, but handled a couple different Sig carry models, the new Ruger lightweight commander, Dan Wesson CCO and VBOB. The S&W felt "lesser" than the DW but not by a whole lot. The S&W SC had an idiot mark on it already.
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Been shooting the 1911 platform for a lot of years and never had the problem..
However it is confirmed I was riding the shit out of the slide stop with my left thumb.... No idea where I picked up this bad habit. Nothing wrong with the gun at all, with any magazine... WOW...
Maybe I guess since I had the mindset to dive in competitively I was trying to get a better more aggressive feeling grip on the gun or something, and was completely unaware of what I was doing. Thanks for all the input guys something so simple completely overlooked.
Just glad you didn't spend anymore time/money fixing the gun when the problem was behind it! Super frustrating and humbling when stuff like that happens.
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I think the biggest difference between the two is single action vs. DASA or Striker in the classifier.
Most stages for IDPA are pretty much in 7-12 yard range generally and the more forgiving SA trigger really can be exploited at longer shots out at 20 yards, but those shots are typically rare in IDPA, however the classifer stage 3 it is not. At this point the difference between the divisions is about 4 points, which could be attributable to accuracy on stage 3 entirely. The big boys can all run their triggers the same so it shouldn't matter, but it is still different.
Can you drop in good SSP legal trigger kits and gunsmith fitted barrels into Glocks? absolutely, but it's more the exception than the rule.
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Is the Accu-Shadow ESP legal?
The Accu-Shadow lite is esp legal. But the Accu with the full rail is not because of the rail with the barrel bushing.
ESP actually doesn't allow full length dust covers (still). For an SP01 to be run in ESP, it has to satisfy all of the requirements for SSP, which means no mag well and if it had slide machinging it's not SSP legal...
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Some of the masters I shoot with will RWR. You can begin to move with the gun in battery while you're stowing your mag so bringing the mag up when grabbing the other can be an asset, if you're any good at it. You just can't start shooting until the mag is stowed. I started wearing "Cool Guy" Tru Spec pants because the pockets make stowing mags stupid easy to the shoots for this reason.
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A buddy of mine whom I shoot with recently won the FL state IDPA shoot SS SSP with a score of like 399. The MM ESP guy who is from the area and won in FL won MM ESP with a score of like 398. If you're winning the division above your current classification as you win your division, then you might be sandbagging, but unless you were intentionally flubbing a classifier to put you in MM I would say no. Per the rules you only get an equity promotion out of SS if you class as EX in any division, all other divisions are instantly raised to SS.
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Just wading into this and by no means an authority on the 1911 platform, but have you tried shooting it in your left hand one handed so there is no possible way you are engaging the slide stop?
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The missing question here is how many rounds do you shoot between cleans. If its only a few hundred rounds, then any "oil" type of lube will work and provide proper lubrication over that short duration of shooting. If you want to shoot several thousand rounds between cleans and still maintain proper lubrication you need to use a "Grease" type of lube on the major components, such as the Brian Enos Slide Glide.
Personally I use Slide Glide on the frame, slide, & barrel. Then motor oil on the sear & hammer trigger components. I have gone 5000 rounds with this setup before and the gun was still properly lubricated when I finally cleaned it. But I normally do a full detailed clean & relube every 1000 - 1500 just to keep an eye on how things are wearing.
One can relube a pistol without cleaning it. The lube doesn't have to last for 5000 rounds.
I'm on board with this program. Every few weeks I lock the slide back and put a drop of oil on the rails and let it slide down into the gun. I use light oils though.
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As far as practicing before an actual competition, if you can be safe I'd just go to the match. You'll find out at a match what you really need to practice on your own
This.
The things you think are really important and you need to practice may not be what you actually need to practice.
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I think the Wilson Combat magwell that attaches via the bushing screws would work well with slim grips. I've been running one on my Les Baer for a number of years now and it has been a great product. It's never moved on me or loosened up. I was skeptical at first, but didn't want to swap out the Baer MSH, so I figured I'd give it a try. My regular thickness grips stick out beyond the magwell at the center of the grips, a slim profile grip would probably be ideal. The only fitting required is that you have to recess the rear of the grips a bit to get a good fit over the hooks the Wilson magwell uses to mount.
What tool did you use to remove material from the grips? I've got one of these going on my back up gun and will need to recess the grip panels I'm sure.
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1. Yes.
2. Maybe. I tried them in my STI Trojan and they were chewed up within 200 rds. I don't use them. Some people do. You could have a problem releasing the slide from slidelock or the gun could have problems with the slide not travelling far enough to the rear.
Try them and see.
That's pretty much what I imagined. The website makes them sound like they're some revelation to the 1911 pattern pistol and you'd be a fool not to use them but I fail to see how a nylon washer could make a gun run better.
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I switch to a 1911. It took me the better part of 2 months to get back to competing with the guys I was neck and neck with, and I've actually improved on my longer shots 12-20 yds with the 1911. Slide lock reloads do hurt me a little bit as I was faster on those with my Glock but I'm continuing to improve to the point where it's negligible. Picking up better hits further down range is a welcome trade. Of course in IDPA with 18 round stages I'm stuck with 2 reloads so I won't beat my SSP/ESP counterparts, but at the same time stages set up for 3 rounds per target give me a nice clean reload after the 3rd target is engaged, so it's a wash.
More importantly, I like my gun now and it makes me want to practice more so I do so my game has improved from that as well.
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I'm replacing the FLGR in a S&W E I have on order with the WC flat wire recoil spring... which came with a shok buff. Two questions.
1. Is it CDP legal in IDPA? I've read the rules and it seems like it could go either way, if it was a mod to increase reliability of the gun, I could see it being legal, which the case could be made for it I suppose.
2. Does it do what it's supposed to? Does it reduce muzzle climb appreciably? Just seems a lot like a "Turbonator"
Obviously the course of action will be "try and see if you like it", which I plan on doing, but figure I can at least kick tires in the interim. Thoughts?
45 ACP loads for Blue Bullets 230 gr RNFP
in 44/45 Caliber
Posted
Update: Chrono'd at a match - 5.0 grains 231 with CCI LPP and 1.25 +/- .01 OAL due to brass at 812 FPS and 816 FPS - Approx 180 PF. Ambient temperature was approx 75 degrees, very high humidity
I chrono'd 4.6 grains of 231 with Federal LPP and it did not make power factor at the same COAL at approx 65 degree temp. I trust the chrono at the match better. I think the chrono at 4.6 grains was not quite on.
Either way, I'll probably be reducing to 4.8 grains of 231.
Great projectiles, very low smoke ( I don't notice any).