ArrDave
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Posts posted by ArrDave
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This is an interesting thread in the fact that it marries up with the old RN vs SWC debate on 45's. Many folks suggest typical 1911 rifling is optimized for "hard ball" velocities, which nobody really loads 230 to but near everyone loads 200/185 grain projectiles to. Sounds like CZ rifling may be optimized for NATO spec 9mm (1185 FPS), so 115's at 130 PF move at 1130 FPS are closest to that. I wonder if there is any validity to that.
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CZ 75 Compact
in CZ
We report, you decide
Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.
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locks up the slideIt will snap in the center where it contacts the barrel
If it happens at practice, easy fix, if it happens during a stage, could zero it depending on at what point
Ask me how I know
How many rounds did you have on yours when it failed?
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If you want a gun, get a gun. You've basically got a do all gun. If this year's production nationals taught us anything is it's more man than machine.
You might consider a 75 Shadow (non-SP01), then you could run a mag well, or you could go the "poor" man's route and dress up an 85C.
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I'm surprised so many people are OK with 1.5-2s, at my club most can get off a 7 yard draw under 1.5S from concealment and most of our talent is concentrated in the SS/EX range. At 7 yards assuming you practice you almost don't even need sights.
We were having drawing races goofing around after the match last week and our most competitive guys were just under 1 to about 1.2. A gamer vest from a natural start position doesn't really add much, if any time it seems. We had one guy who could pull off a 1.1 from an IWB under a T shirt, but he's an instructor for the range we shoot at and competes that way.
EDIT: All of that to say you'll pick up more time focusing on reducing transition time and position entry time than speeding up a draw.
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Out of curiosity who/what is Sig aiming the X5 series of pistols at?
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CZ 75 Compact
in CZ
The 16 round factory cz or mecgar with the factory 18 round base is what you want. Greg Cote LLC is the place to order.
That will stick out of the base of the grip. The 14 rounder with the P01 +0 baseplate works great.
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CZ 75 Compact
in CZ
I opted for the CZ 75 Compact because I don't mind an extra 4 oz of weight, wanted the manual safety, and liked the Duo Tone that was available locally. With respect to base pads, the flat metal baseplates are kind of lousy, but the P01 base pads are spectacular, another thing on the gun that will funnel your grip higher up into the frame. Greg Cote LLC sells them for like $9 apiece, couple that with a $21 mec gar mag and you're in $30 per magazine, and they're decent mags. It handles recoil very well, like a much bigger gun, and is very practically accurate. I'm smitten with mine, wish I'd started on this platform rather than every plastic one under the sun.
EDIT:
The PCR and the P01 will be thrown out there as the ones to go for because aluminum. The frame width at the slide is slightly narrower on the steel variant, which is important if you plan to go IWB, but realistically, any of them can work for IWB.
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What PF is your ammo usually? if you have a buffer I would say let it ride. I haven't seen a different running N320 and standard SPP though. Can't say anything about how it affect other powder
I'm using Titegroup right now, and yes there is a buffer. I'll just let it ride with a SPP rather than SMP.
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Oak Hill Guns has them for like $36 each.
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I have a lost brass match coming up and I have about 100 of these suckers ready to go. The consensus I seem to have read is that you us a Small Magnum Pistol Primer and go on about life. Do you goose your charge at all, or just let it ride? What's your experience?
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Thread derailment: Where can you buy a Shadow that CZ custom hasn't slicked up? Just a stock Shadow SP01? CZ Custom and Oak Hill Guns? Not on the market right this second but eyeing the switch.
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As long as you keep the trigger depressed, it will go all the way down.
yeah but it seems to impact the firing pin harder using a thumb roll vs. pinch. I just assumed folks doing the thumb block were dropping to half cock. That's what I do with my 75 Compact I carry, anyway.
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Shadow and 75 have different cuts. 75 and P-09 have the same cut. The P-09 takes the 75 mount.
As to decocking with a safety, just put your weak hand thumb in between the hammer and firing pin before pulling the trigger. Then slowly slide your thumb out as you let the hammer down with your strong hand thumb. It's 100% painless and 100% safe.
Do you do that to drop to half cock or all the way down? I know it's a different game, but IDPA specifies the hammer has to be all the way down if you don't have a decocker. The hammer pinch seems a little easier, but the thumb roll to half cock is brilliantly easy.
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But IDPA...
Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.
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Dan Wesson valor, 45, checkmate competition hybrids, dan Wesson specialist magwell, release slide with support hand as I rebuild grip (righty)
Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.
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So I have been diligently practicing slide lock reloads and I cannot get the time down, 1.5 seconds seems to be all I am capable o for now at my best. I have the most issue seating the mag and releasing the slide... I know it will take practice but I would sure appreciate some tips, videos, or drill recommendations (dry fire with dummy rounds) to get that down closer to 1.2. I have been shooting single stack (CDP really) since January and 15 mins of dry fire near daily since then.
Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.
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The Progressive Press is pretty much a "buy once, cry once" thing. If you're going to get one, get a 650 or a Hornady Lock n Load.
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I started carrying a CZ 75 compact. Got a Duo Tone and it came with some handsome checkered wood grips with it already. Shoots great, carries about the same as a G19. Technically my CZ is a full 50% heavier than my G19 was, but I really don't notice it. I never could shoot my G19 for anything, ran this sucker at a match just to see how it did, and despite the terribad stock sights I still did pretty well with it, probably 85% of running a 5" gun. That said, i feel more connected to my little CZ than I did my G19 or G17 that I carried. It's been EDC'd for the 2 months I've had it. So far so good. I was EDC'ing my back up 1911 for most of the year but the 5" barrel is just too long, wore a hole in a pair of my jeans.
It's pretty much the same price as a G19, but I still have pride for it, like I do my match guns, which I never did for any of my Glocks.
That said, the rare occasions where I do want/need a barbeque gun, the E Series stainless smith with the zebra VZ grips comes out in a leather holster. Pretty low end 1911 but the form and aesthetic I'm far fonder of.
That, and I enjoy WAY more practical accuracy from either the 75 or the 1911 platform than I ever did a Glock.
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My ESP gun only makes weight with 1 of my mags and it is so close it has to be clean when weighed... It also BARELY fits the box...
Awesome!.
My 45 is like 42.3 or so.
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When I used SWC in in my SS gun I loaded out to 1.260. I was having 3 point jams. I got my barrel throated and started loading to there and the problem went away.
I had a new shiny barrel in my gun, I just had it throated and test fired 120 rounds, no issues. Also unearthed that I'm not using enough crimp and that was exacerbating the problem.
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Which bullet are you loading ?
Blue Bullets 200 gr LSWC.
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There's flex in the shell plate on a progressive. Brass which is harder to resize flexes the sizing station side of the plate down more and results in a longer OAL. Vice versa with brass that's easier to size.OP - post a pic of a loaded round. Generally loading SWCs you should not be loading to a book length unless the book data is based on the exact mold of the SWC you're using. You should set OAL based on exposed bullet shoulder above the case mouth. You want 1-3 business cards worth of bullet shoulder exposed. There are many different SWC profiles - even for 200 GR .45 SWCs. One size does not fit all.
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I don't have some rounds handy, but I'm not at 1-3 business card lengths of shoulder... At 1.225 it just barely clears, it's visible, but not by alot. I suspect at 1.24 it would get me there comfortably. I don't have much experience loading SWC, but I do very much like the accuracy, beautiful big hole, and recoil impulse of the 200 grain projectile.
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These are set to 1.225, but due to mixed brass, some wind up a little shorter/a little longer.
I'm not sure I follow how mixed brass would affect seating depth of the bullet.
The back of the case is against the shell plate and the seating die is against the bullet, so case length should have no relevance. So how does mixed brass make a difference?
There is a variance of +/- .005 with most probably falling between +/- .003 on all of my ammo. I'm very consistent with my stroke, I really can't explain why.
What's a fair price for a LNIB stock CZ SP01 Tactical 9mm decocker
in CZ
Posted
Thats $605 shipped.