ArrDave
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Posts posted by ArrDave
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So the lock up when in battery with the 14# spring seems really, really loose. Doing the recoil spring test - it doesn't go back into battery with the Taran Rod / 14#/ DPP mounted. I went back to the OEM - it passes the recoil spring test. Right now I'm running the OEM striker spring.
- Would 4.5# striker spring help? I have some ghost ones on hand - is there one brand that's better than another?
- how important is it that the gun passes the recoil test?
- I don't believe accuracy was affected in a major way - though I didn't do any group shooting beyond zeroing and I was getting results consistent with my skill level with the taran rod.
- Does someone have a G34g5 w/ a dot w/ the taran rod and GM trigger kit - can you confirm it passes the RSA test?
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Will the GR-1 fit a 35 with SJC without modification?
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Fascinating post. And no doubt many ways are successful for some. Loved the first part of ArrDave's video, except that when he went to demonstrate he didnt do what the experts said.
I would love it if you could expand on this - in my view from the extended pod casts I believe I am barking up the right tree. All of those interviews were for any gun- not just gas pedals.
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for Carry Optics - I've tried 3 different mag bases - TTI, Dawson, and HYVE - TTI gets the nod by a wide margin - they are 23 round capacity and the profile is much more handy to grasp from the belt. The Dawson and especially the Hyve are just too big and on a 140MM base pad it just makes for a less consistent grab for me. They all will take a set to the spring pretty quick and the slide will stop locking back on empty - so be aware.
For Production - I'd look at the Dawson Precision probably - depending on sights I'd lean toward the +.100 to keep it pretty handy - I like smaller base pads but this is absolutely a preference thing and you're probably going to want to try grasping a couple of each to see if they're for you. I assume with most glock sights they would fit in the box no problems.
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New Match video - first high over all - not a deep field but good to say I've won a high overall - toppled a LIM - M to get it so that's not nothing.
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22 hours ago, wtturn said:
A bunch of valid stuff
Hwansik and I believe Avery are getting their lateral force from turning their wrists in as a result of rolling their elbows out rather than imparting lateral force with their hands - that's my interpretation of that anyway.
Having hit the range yesterday evening and a couple dryfire sessions I think I am more of a blend. To my grip the push from locking out the wrists is very important from both arms, but so is having the "drumstick" of my support hand anchored to the side of the pistol - the result of that anchoring is pulling back on the front strap of the grip. Still working on locking out the wrist on my support hand. When I do it - it feels fantastic and the gun cycles like a boss but my support hand wrist is more difficult to lock out - for whatever reason than my strong hand wrist.
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7 minutes ago, tanks said:
Except. Kim H. was talking about gripping front to back like a "C clamp", not push pull. BTW, Ron Avery has been teaching the "C clamp" method for decades.
I think the difference is nuanced - I've not taken a class with either but listened to a lot of interviews with them and probably have watched all the avery videos. Lets see if we can summon him to speak for himself. Avery - with the pliable hands method is pretty much instructing to pull with the fingers while mushing the palm of the hand into the frame, making good contact, but I don't think the palm of the support hand is putting a bunch of pressure on the firearm. I could be off base - but that's my understanding having watched the videos on it.
Chris tilley recently posted this as well - and they all sound similar enough to be talking about the same thing in different ways. -
I strung together a bunch of Firearms Nation Podcasts featuring snips from Yong Lee, Eric G, Hwansik K, and Ron Avery. It basically has me to the conclusion that a proper "grip" is entirely front to back.
I share this knowing full well there is criticism coming but I'm more interested in "figuring this out" rather than "being right" on the internet - so I post it here for comment.The executive summary is the "push pull" of the weaver is the correct grip to use in the modern Iso stance. Chris Tilley posted a video on grip basically affirming the same thing about a week after I did it. So I'm hoping to start a conversation on this. In my own shooting, pushing on the backstrap of the gun firmly, it almost feels like it's coming from my back, and pulling on the front strap, where it almost feels like it's coming in part from my shoulder seems to be netting me the best results in terms of flattening the gun as well as dot movement being balanced straight up and down. So please - weigh in with your comments. The dot returns MUCH faster if the push into the backstrap almost feels like it's from my back.
This is a video you can listen to without watching - it's long - about 26 minutes. There are time codes in the description if you want to skip my jabber in between.
So please - lay it on me - what are your thoughts on grip?
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1 hour ago, eerw said:
heavier looking slide. what material is the plate? thanks
I hope it's steel. I've had an aluminum plate give up it's threading when using the 30 inch lbs of torque my optic recommended.
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If you're going to be competitive at the top end - you probably need a 40 - so a glock 35 or 24 would be the one to use. For a limited minor gun, yours is fine - again you might find the extra sight radius of a 34 to help eke out a few more points in LTD. It's not set up optimally - due to caliber and sight radius, but it's set up adequately. you could add a frame weight to really help hold the muzzle flat - or at the very least a Jentra Ultra Heavy Tungsten guide rod. That sucker is over 2.5 oz and really does impact how the gun tracks. I have one in my g4 17 that I use for CO. In the slow mo you can see it.
I'm curious the people who are beating you - what is their classification? Who are you beating? It's rare someone 6 months in comes in and starts winning unless it's a new USPSA club and there isn't much heat at the match - not trying to diminish your accomplishment - just flies in the face of my personal experience with it.
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Romeo1 Shroud
in Sig
how much weight does this shroud add?
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I have a Pearce- which does a good job basically making a mag funnel- and a Fixxxer aluminum one- which seemed like it would hold up better but doesn’t create quite the seamless magwell effect of the Pearce- is there a better one to try?
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31 minutes ago, Sniperboy said:
I challenge you to not clean your Glock and not change your springs until something goes wrong.
The result may surprise you and frankly will "set your soul free".
I have the "not cleaning" bit down.
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5 minutes ago, TrackCage said:
Yes, I run a 13lb recoil with stock striker springs. No issue at all in over 5k rounds (probably closer to 10k)
fantastic - I didn't want to change the striker spring but read that I needed to to balance the gun.
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10 minutes ago, tdp88 said:
Unless you are running federal primers, I would leave the striker spring stock. I tried lighter springs and even with the Jager striker, I had light strikes. As far as the other springs go, change the recoil every 10k.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkCan I run the OEM striker spring weight with reduced power recoil springs?
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So I picked up the platform coming from CZ back in May. I'm getting past 5k rounds and I'm starting to realize I have no idea the change interval is.
I'm going to throw out my guesses on round count when things should change and you tell me
I'm not a big trigger guy so I don't really care what the trigger weight is - I've been running a stock set up for the first 5k rounds but recently changed to a 14# recoil spring - which I like the ejection better on - which suggested to me using a 4.5# striker spring. So keeping all that in mind this is what I'm thinking - what would you do?
Striker Spring - 5k
Recoil Spring - 10k
Trigger Spring - 10k
Striker assembly - 20k
Extractor - 20k
Trigger bar / housing - 40k
Am I at all barking up the right tree?
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been busy with life - but this has still been going on. I think where I am at now is developing the confidence to run the gun how I know I can and not being too conservative on splits and letting each sight picture settle out. Tough to really drill on that without access to an outdoor range. Still puzzling out how to lay down what's within my skillset because the "shoot as fast as you can see" isn't working - I'm too slow - significantly slower than in practice.
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i am using the gen4/gen 5 adaptor and the jentra ultra heavy tungsten guide rod i bought through NDZ
Anyone know what adapter works with the jentra ultra heavy guide rod? I have to try one of these for my CO gun
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Match video from the weekend - thoughts to come.
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Moving to Dallas very soon - can someone give me a run down on the good matches and where all the gun clubs are so I don’t try to live forever from a good gun club
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The red dot is the best shooting instructor I've had in a while. I say that not to discount the training from those I've worked with but because it provides a level of feedback on a very personal level that would be impossible for anyone to provide - namely it gives you visual cues for how the gun is behaving based on grip and stance modifications in real time. You can make changes and receive instant feedback as you pull the trigger and the gun recoils into how it affects what the gun is doing. Just this week I was rewarded with a handful of insights into my shooting through paying attention to the dot.
The first bit was the dot movement based on how I'm applying force with my support hand. I'm transitioning over from CZs, and my support hand force is very front to back and reinforces the direction of my strong hand fingers when gripping them. This is an easy grip to achieve on the Shadow 2 using palm swell grips with a rough texture, but the Glock - by comparison is flat and very slick at the top of the grip around the thumb relief (where absolutely no one should rest their strong hand thumbs). So I went with what was easy - I pinched in laterally with my support hand applying force side to side. What happened in recoil is the dot lifted up and to the right at about a 45-60 degree angle in recoil. It returned to more or less the same area - but when shooting fast the likelihood of stringing shots to the left increased a great bit. I was overpowering the gun on the left side making the gun track up and right. So I hit the range again - with the goal of seeing the dot jump straight up and down by gripping with my support hand front to back.
I set up a drill which had two USPSA metric targets completely open at 7 yards probably 5 yards apart. I consciously tried to grip front to back- Voila - the dot jumps straight up and down just like I wanted. The dot would climb to the top of the generous Deltapoint Pro window, exit the screen for a brief fraction of a second, then come right back down to where it started more or less. If it wasn't straight up and down movement it was at most it was 5-10 degrees off vertical when I would miss my grip with my support hand. At 7 yards running .22-.27 splits the shots would string vertically - depending on the timing the second shot may be a couple inches low, to darn near on top of the first shot (I need to experiment more with shot timing to make this happen consistently).
So with the dot tracking sorted out - I started playing with stance and weight bias. A recent Firearms Nation Podcast with Yong Lee kept hammering on an aggressive stance, clearly it is important to him so I guess it should be important to me, right? So I got wider than shoulders width and feet further separated front to back with all the weight over my lead foot, ran the same drill. When the shots broke, the dot jumped same as before - BUT - it didn't leave the window. The gun was recovering faster. The result was that the rapid fire shots stayed closer together. Previously with a more upright and no forward bias with my weight running the trigger as fast I could would net 4-6" of separation on the first target and usually 2-3" of separation on the second target. With a more aggressive stance I was shrinking the group of the first pair to be roughly the size of the second. But it didn't end there...
I started noticing how the gun was hitting in the palm of my strong hand. It's very difficult to put into words the sensation - but I was applying a lot of force with the web of my hand in the grip tang, and a lot of force low down on the front of the grip to get the most leverage to return the dot quickly. In high speed video I know I get some muzzle dip as the slide closes - more than I'd like for sure. Now I started trying to put a priority on hitting the bottom of the grip harder with the heel of my palm to counteract the force from the ring fingers/pinkies of both hands. Wouldn't you know it - the muzzle dip when the slide closed was reduced appreciably - the dot didn't dip down then recover up near as bad - again leading to shrinking groups when shooting fast - but as an added benefit it reduced the amount the dot would dip on sloppy trigger pulls - increasing first shot accuracy.
To test this - I backed it up to 25 yards on the plate racks - being intentional in slow fire with just 12 rounds and 12 plates I wanted to see if I could go 1 for 1. 9 for 12. BUT I did stop hitting low on the cross bar - misses were VERY close - usually just off the plate to the left.
I got a lot out of practice today. Dryfire the next few days leading into the match are going to be focused on how my strong hand palm feels on the backstrap as I present to target, how my support hand feels putting pressure on the gun, and ensuring that I get an aggressive low/wide stance. I can say definitively I've gotten more out of my practice in the last 3 weeks using a red dot than the 5 months of practice leading up to it this year. It's rapidly smoothing out the learning curve for picking up a new platform.
We'll see how this all translates to the match this weekend. Someone pay the weatherman to get all this rain out of here.
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1 minute ago, Ssanders224 said:
Yea, this. Squeeze the crap out of it. You can see the two areas where pro-grip is embedded into the silicon carbide... those spots are where the meat of my support hand contacts the gun and bares down. Those two spots probably get more pressure than any other spot on the grip.
Those are some good looking slide serrations
34g5 - Tarran Guide rod w/ 14# wolff question w/ DPP mounted.
in Glock
Posted
Point unloaded gun at ceiling - pull trigger , rack slide while keeping trigger pinned to rear. If it goes into battery without you releasing the trigger then you pass
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