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TLD

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Posts posted by TLD

    Recommend a good 1911 smith in N Illinois

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted

    I need a short trigger, more of a grip safety and a different thumb safety to make it work the best for me, not to mention some minor trigger work and a mag well. I just got my feet wet with IPSC this year and joined the USPSA, and with some help from friendly shooters have a plan for improving my equipment for limited 10.

    I put an after market short match trigger in myself and it apparently didn't fit right and bound up in a match. It's hard to shoot with a 15lb trigger pull. It's probably best to let the pro's do it.

    Problem extracting with 5906

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted · Edited by TLD

    Are you original owner ? That is a service pistol and may have been Xtra power springed, usually recoil but maybe mainspring, for a diet of +p or +p+ ammo. It could even have had one meant for a .40 installed. I would detail strip and clean everything, inspect ejector, install factory strength recoil and mainspring, look for anything that might be slowing down slide travel. Load up some standard power 9mm ammo and go from there. For a general shooting iron, 6 foot is a pretty good rule of thumb for balancing load and recoil spring/ ms .

    I'm not the original owner. I think it's not a service pistol (like new in the original box with original receipt from a gun shop in Cincinnati). No PD stamps either, but no way to tell for sure.

    I have a standard power recoil and mainspring to install. I'll let you know how it works.

    Thanks!

    Problem extracting with 5906

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted

    check your ejector... with the problem isolated to light loads that's the direction I am thinking... gun goes Bang brass comes back hits ejector, but now your extractor is tighter than normal so either due to damage to ejector or slide travel speed reduced by the lighter loads or heavy springs. Extractor hangs onto brass and sticks it back into the chamber... with the loads that do work How far away does the brass land on the ground when shooting standing should be 6 foot away.

    Thanks for the information. I didn't think to look at the ejector.

    This problem has improved with the tighter extractor. I have not installed any of the new springs yet. The brass probably lands less than 6 feet away. Most of my other autos sling it.

    Problem extracting with 5906

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted · Edited by TLD

    I thought it was the extractor so I filed it down until it has a very positive hold on the case such that it can't be shaken out. The extractor is in good shape, I installed it not many rounds ago. Still, from time to time (but less often than before) it leaves the case in the chamber and tries to feed a cartridge in, so it is recoiling all the way. The case is not stuck. It will usually fall out just by tipping the muzzle up.

    I have

    • polished the chamber and feed ramp.
    • made the extractor grip tighter.
    • I just got a new recoil spring and new mag springs (the others are of unknown age and use) but haven't tried yet
    • I have yet to have a problem with 147 grain full power loads or hot 124 grain.
    • I am aware of limp wristing, but don't think this is a primary cause

    Any advise? I'd really like to shoot Winchester value pack, but they don't work well.

    Action Shooting With Stock 1911

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    I'm just getting started in IPSC this year with a stock Kimber .45. I don't even have a mag well. I did buy 6 10 round mags and another 2 round mag holder. Other than that, it works fine and I'm having fun. I don't have the time to practice enough to be very good, so like some have offered, I shoot what I have and enjoy it.

    What Holster Are You Using For Smith 5906?

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted

    In a 4" the UM would be the cheapest but if you want a better quality Kydex holster the Blade Tech would be an excellent choice. We have Blade Tech holsters and mag pouches in stock for just about any S&W product, no 6 week wait.

    I always go the cheap route and spend extra money later. I'll check out your wares. I like the looks of the Techlock feature. I hate how hard the Uncle Mikes is to get off. I practically have to take my pants off to remove it. (not good when there are ladies at the match.)

    Which High Cap Mags For 5906

    in Gear & Accessories

    Posted · Edited by TLD

    If you're planning on shooting USPSA Production with that 5906, you're limited to 10+1 in the gun at the beep, and ten rounds in the mags afterwards. I'm not sure how IPSC Production treats aftermarket mags. If you want to shoot Limited, you could use the hicaps.

    I'll shoot IPSC with it. I would have to stay with 15 rounds for production. The 17 would still be nice though.

    Which High Cap Mags For 5906

    in Gear & Accessories

    Posted · Edited by TLD

    It is clear to me from my very limited experience this year in IPSC (I've been shooting mostly steel and "outlaw" three gun with my 1911) that it would be an advantage to have at least 16 +1 rounds to get two stages, in most cases, without a mag change assuming I don't miss.

    I have a couple Eagle 17 rounders that I got years ago from CDNN and never had a problem with light duty at the range or shooting steel. CDNN also has some Meg Gar's that seem reasonable at $20. I'm all for a bargain, but $5 for the Eagles doesn't fill me with lots of confidence over the long haul.

    I have gobs of factory 15's, but more rounds would be better. Can someone share their mag choices?

    Thanks!

    Major Pf In A Standard Ar Upper

    in Rifle - Technical

    Posted

    There are clubs that hold matches that are more "tactical" attempting to bring more martial spirit into play. 3 gun race rifles have a place, but doesn't the heavy metal divisions and combat type matches bring the whole thing back to center?

    Tactical?

    Umm...

    Have you been eyeballing what crunchies are toting around in the Sandbox these days?

    Just for entertainment value, pick which "AR15 shaped" gun is "tactical" and which is for "competition":

    - Compensated 16" flattop with dual optics and a compensator, adjustable stock, rail forend

    - Compensated 14.5" flattop with dual optics and a compensator, adjustable stock, rail forend

    I'm all for shooting bigger bullets and have been involved in the San Angelo Brain Trust in trying to figure a better mouse(gun)trap for years, but lets keep the "gamer" v. "tacticool" discussion out of this thread. Real guys are shooting real gomers in the real world with what the folks who have never smelled burning bodies call "gamer" guns even as we speak.

    Alex

    You said gamer, not me. You may also have noticed that the word "tactical" was in quotes. I'll ask my question more clearly (and again since you were obviously busy opening your can of diatribe the first time).

    Is it necessary to even consider reevaluating the scoring system to boost larger caliber rifles since there are already avenues in which guys who have affinity for larger calibers, for whatever reason, can compete?

    Major Pf In A Standard Ar Upper

    in Rifle - Technical

    Posted

    If I was needing a fast handling rifle with a bit more punch than a .223 pushin' a 55gr, I think a 1:8 bbl AR pushing a 75-77 grain projectile at 2700fps+ would be a great blend of added downrange punch coupled with all the great things AR's bring to the table.

    A SMK77 at 2700fps delivers a 207 PF at the muzzle and just over a 150pf at 300 yards.

    A 55gr FMJBT provides a 170.5pf at the muzzle, but only a 114.2pf at 300 yards. The difference here is why the .223 with a 55er up front sux in the real world at anything but CQ range. A really heavy projectile would go a really long way towards making the .223 a whole lot more effective in the world.

    The 62grain move the military made helped a tad, but nowhere near enough. If I had to rely on an AR stoked with 77's at 2700fps plus, I would NOT feel terribly under-rifled.

    BTW, this recipe is what I bring to matches as my standard fodder for any stage with 100 yard plus engagement. I additionally use SMK69's at 2800fps exclusively for CQ stages. I DO NOT shoot mousegun loads in competition ;-)

    There is such a round used in the military, but not gereral issue, yet.

    There are clubs that hold matches that are more "tactical" attempting to bring more martial spirit into play. 3 gun race rifles have a place, but doesn't the heavy metal divisions and combat type matches bring the whole thing back to center?

    But I understand, everyone shoots for THE fastest time. No one aspires to say "I won the 600 nitro express double rifle division at 12 minutes and 15 seconds." Unless, of course, he is practicing to go elephant hunting.

    Durability Of Fal Kit Guns For 3 Gun Shooting

    in Rifle - Technical

    Posted

    I like the .308 and would like to play with it in 3 gun local matches (I say play because I'm not great competitor) I searched FAL in this forum and didn't get a feel of what guys are using.

    I like to build guns myself, just because - AR's, AK's, and would like to try the FAL Imbel kits on the market now on a DSA receiver.

    Does anyone have experience with the durability of this brand kit in match shooting?

    Need To Just Make Power Factor For Idpa With .357

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted

    I've got Hodgdon's 2006 Annual Manual, and the starting load for Titegroup with 125 grain Hornady XTPs is 6.8 grains/1425 fps/36.5k CUP; max is 7.5 grains/1497 fps/41.2k CUP. Using a rule of thumb of 50 fps loss per inch of barrel, you'd get about 1125 fps from your 4" M66 (as opposed to the 10" barrel they used) with the starting load. They used Winchester SPM primers, which are the hottest available to the best of my knowledge, and aren't needed with TG. I'd use their starting load with Winchester standard primers. You'll probably be safe, and it's unlikely anyone will set up a chrono station at a local match.

    TG is an excellent powder for autos, and I used a lot of it in my revolvers, but for some reason it seems to be awfully nasty to topstraps - I've got serious flame cutting on my M27 and M67 from using TG.

    For a K frame, I suggest going to a medium-speed powder and heavier bullets. The new Unique burns cleanly at magnum pressures, and Hodgdon's Longshot works well for jacketed bullets, so those are my choices; there are lots of other good ones. I stick with 158 grain bullets.

    Good luck at your first match!

    Thanks for the information. This will probably be the only time I use those 125g bullets at a match. I don't really shoot the revolver much in matches (steel challenge and bowling pins until now) so do you think the flame cutting will be an issue for 100 rounds?

    Good info. Thanks,

    Terry

    Need To Just Make Power Factor For Idpa With .357

    in 9mm/38 Caliber

    Posted · Edited by TLD

    I don't have a chrony, so I have to load and pray.

    • I have 2400 and Titegroup and cci and winchester regular and magnum primers and Hornady XTP HP bullets 125 grain.
    • I'm shooting in my first match, indoors and no lead is allowed.
    • The TG load in the Hodgdon manual only gives about 1200 fps in a 10" pressure barrel
    • The starting load for the 2400 in speer #13 is overkill from their 6" test barrel

    Do you think the TG load will make 1000 fps it in my 4" M66 S&W?

    How far can I reduce the 2400 load?

    What would you suggest?

    I don't want to kill the safety officer with blast (or my hand) but I need to be legal.

    Thanks!

    The Tactical Excuse

    in IDPA Shooting

    Posted · Edited by TLD

    So when you guys say that you "train" and that IDPA is a game and not training, how do you train? Do you have coaches or instructors or go to the various tactical academies? How do you know what tactics to practice?

    I for one don't have the place or much time to "train" for real. I was in the army but unless I could call in arty, I was pretty much toast, notwithstanding the mighty M9 and my expert badge. :(

    I plan on attending some sort of formal tactical firearms training, but short of that, what can a guy do? I do these games because practicing handling the gun and reloading is better than not until that time.

    If anyone can point to me to materials for ways to train tactically, please do. Right now my best tactical training is my treadmill.

    Chrono Results Of .38 Special Factory Rnl Ammo

    in Revolver Forum

    Posted

    Before any of the mods ask, this isn't load data, so that's why it's here instead of there. :P

    Folks - I'm mainly an IDPA shooter. I normally load my own competition ammo, but recently ran out and wondered whether any factory ammo would make the required power factor of 125. To that end, I bought an assortment of factory .38 Special RNL ammo to check it.

    The ammo I obtained was 158 grain loads from Sellier & Bellot, Federal American Eagle, Magtech, and Winchester (actually, their loads are 150 grain). I tried to find both Remington-UMC and PMC, but was unable to locate any.

    The guns used were 4" S&W .38 Specials - a M10-5, a M10-8, and a M67-1.

    Results key: SB = Sellier & Bellot; AE = Federal American Eagle; MT = Magtech; WW = Winchester. Velocity is reported as average velocity/extreme spread/standard deviation. The result are based on a single cylinderful of ammo - I wasn't looking for statistical precision, just a ballpark idea.

    M10-5 - SB: 869/40/17; AE: 739/15/6; MT: 723/56/21; WW: 755/54/18.

    M10-8 - SB: 890/41/16; AE: 747/45/17; MT: 735/24/10; WW: 770/38/16.

    M67-1 - SB: 853/32/11; AE: 708/38/14; MT: 716/41/15; WW: 749/71/27.

    The Federal, Winchester and Magtech ammo came in about where I thought they would, and their velocities are right where I've chronographed them before in other guns. But the S&B was unexpected! It'd probably make the PF from a snubby. ;)

    I didn't check any of this ammo for accuracy or leading. I had honey-dews waiting at home. :D I can note that both M10s had at least 50 rounds of my handloads (158 grain Zero RNLS @ 850 fps) through them prior to the testing and that there was no leading present in any of the guns at the end of the testing.

    Just FYI...

    Thanks for the information. I opened this forum today in search of this exact info.

    I am going to my first IDPA next month and have agonized over which gun to use. I've decided on my S&W M66 4" because I carry a revolver (642) and I believe that practice loading and firing DA revolver under stress has to be good.

    Since this is indoors, I have to used jacketed ammo. I'll have to buy some, do you have any recommendations?

    Thanks!

    What Gun Do You Shoot In Ssp?

    in IDPA Shooting

    Posted

    Im using a Para 18.9 LDA. It can be shot in SSP and ESP and i shoot Para guns in IPSC so it uses the same frame size. I love my 1911's

    That may work at local and club matches but you may find the P18.9 LDA not allowed in larger matches. It is over the 39oz. SSP weight limit. It should be OK for ESP. I have a P18.9 single action I shoot in ESP and love it.

    I agree that the 9mm LDA is an excellent gun. I intend on getting one for USPSA Production class someday.

    I'm shooting my first next month. I'll probably use my S&W 5906 but have considerd my M66.

    Got A Wild Thoguht..want To Shoot A Revolver

    in IDPA Shooting

    Posted

    The winningest platform for SSR--if you care about that--is gonna be the 686 (6-shot version). I like a k-frame better, myself, and so shoot a 66; but the biggest diff. between both of those and the 10 is decent sights, which you would sorely miss if you shot this gun in IDPA for any length of time. The ditch-and-post is great for carry and hell for stout, but a lot harder to pick up quick--never mind the problem of adjustability.

    I'd snoop for a cheap K or L frame, 4" and adjustable, if I was shopping for an SSR gun. And yes, SSR is the cheaper way to shoot wheelgun, for sure. There ARE no cheap 625's.

    A friend of mine just sold a very nice pinned and recessed S&W model 15 for $200. It had hardly been fired but had some surface wear.

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