TLD
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Posts posted by TLD
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Managed recoil is worth a try, but it does shoot regular slugs sooo good.
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Thanks. That's what I think I arrived at. I'm going to make it work with the light loads, hope the buffer helps and an plan my next gun.
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I got an almost new standard 1100, cut the barrel to 19 inches and threaded for a choke. I didn't do anything else to the recoil or gas system and it worked fine with even the lightest loads.
The heavy buckshot loads and slugs took their toll cracking the stock after a about a thousand rounds. I installed an extra power Wolff recoil spring then had trouble cycling the light loads. Instead of opening the gas ports I reinstalled the factory recoil spring and ordered a receiver buffer which is on the way. Hopefully this softens the impact.
Any other ideas? An optimal spring weight?
Thanks
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Not trying to be a smartass, but you know they don't go in like M16 mags, right? Latch the front, then rock it rearward like an AK. It's also possible to install the spring guide upside down, leaving the "point" of the guide down at 6 instead of up at 12 o'clock, nearest the bolt.
Non GI mags may have the hole mispositioned as well.
HTH
Mark
Thanks for the information. I know these types of mag systems well, having owned AK's and Mini14's for years. Maybe the mag latch is protruding too far because I just cannot even get the latch in to the hole on the mag. I have several mags, winchester and several CMI's.
I'll try flipping it.
Edited out the smartass comment.
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I have a factory built Armscorp M14NM (semi auto) all USGI. I intend to dabble in heavy metal with it, but am having trouble. The spring guide seems to be binding causing it to be nearly impossible at times to put a mag in with the bolt open.
I've taken it apart and lubed it up, which helps, but more often than not, can hardly get the mag inserted.
Is this a common problem? Any quick fixes?
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I bought the ranch rifle model, you know to use on a ranch, went after market stock trigger job glass bed, match ammo, reloads, scope with low mount rings, and still couldnt get it to hold on an 8 inch target at 100 yards. Its got the same effective range as my $25 12 gauge yard sale single shot.
I know it will do at least 8" at 100 yards with irons.
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That is the factory stock. I added a Karsten cheek rest. Makes a world of difference. It shoots really well with the brake. Now I need to zero it and see how it groups. Really, 2moa or better will be fine. My DPMS shot 2 MOA and the only disadvantage I had was first shot hits well past 300 yards, and since I don't shoot matches like that much, not that big of a deal.Now that's a FINE looking Mini! Does your stock have more drop at the heal than the original?
Had a trigger job done on mine also, and loved it. I just sold 4, 30 round SS mags, they worked great. Had a muzzle brake on it, and it was a significant improvement. Also had 21 coats of hand rubbed tung oil on the stock (took me nearly a month to get it right!). Didn't make it shoot any better but wow it looked great.
Tar
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This is how it looks right now. Had to add the cheek rest. I don't know how guys shoot these with scopes with out one.
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I like the spring idea. I get wolf for just about all replacement springs and they work great.
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And don't say "Change it to an AR."
I recently moved to CA and will be shooting my Mini. I have a Nikon 1-4 scope, raised cheek piece and muzzle brake. Extended mag release a good idea? Any other performance mods that are inexpensive and worthwhile?
Thanks.
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Whether a fiberglass stock needs to be bedded or not, depends on the stock. McMillan stocks do need bedding. I think they may only come in a heavy match size. I'm not sure of their E2 style. GI "fiberglass" stocks are injection molded, and bonded together. Even for our game, to get the most accuracy, the barreled action should be bedded, with tension on the barrel.
Should you go with a wood stock, a straight grain birch that's been bedded and then sealed inside and out is the way to go. My M1A is in a surplus E2 stock, that's bedded, gas cylinder is unitized, rear sight is fitted. Except for the reciever and Smith Enterprises muzzle brake adapter, all the parts are GI.
Sounds like my gun, less the bedded action. What do you seal it with?
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Switching to Heavy Metal.
Do I need to bed a fiberglass stock?
If so is bedded fiberglass better than bedded wood for accuracy?
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Not sure where to post this, but I'm a beginner to shooting in California so here it goes.
I'll probably be moving to California for work. I've been reading the gun laws and understand the mag capacity and assault weapons bans pretty well I think. (although it's obvious they are not meant to be understandable)
My question is this:
I've been watching a lot of California 3 gun video on line and most people obviously have high capacity magazines for rifles and pistols and many are using so called "assault rifles". The only way I understand it can be possible is they owned the magazines and rifles before the ban and registered them.
Is this the only way? Is there some info I'm missing?
If not, this might put a guy like me who shows up with a 10 round Mini-14 at a slight disadvantage against the guy with standard capacity AR.
Thanks.
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I have been using only 75 grain bullets this year. It makes me feel better because I had a lot of them from when I thought I'd get into highpower years ago and didn't so now I don't have to buy bullets. I'd really like to shoot the 80's to buck the wind but I don't think that would make up for the single shot deficit.
When those 75's are gone I'll probably shoot the 55 grain I bought to hold off the hordes of ravaging zombies that didn't come at Y2K.
When those are gone I'm going to try to find a steel free match so that I can shoot all the Wolf I bought before a certain politician was elected because I thought that it would be hard to come by and was.
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I took it off and put a Remington competition carrier on it.
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Fixed it.
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Wow after reading the instructions on the EZ loader I may have a gunsmith install it. Most of my tools are in storage right now and it looks like it would take some time and know-how to do.
It's straight forward but a PITA. I'm still having a problem that no one seems to have an idea about fixing. Could be my gunsmithing or something else.
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If I let the bolt slam home on an empty chamber I can load a shell in the mag with ease.
When I try to top off the mag in a middle of a stage with a shell in the chamber the shell won't load. It is as if the lifter is not high enough and it jams between the mag tube and the low lifter.
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I did one. It was a pain, but works perfectly. Thanks for the sewing needle tip. I was trying to figure out what I could use in the roll pin for strength.
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OK, maybe stupid question. 20+ squads and 10 stages. How does that get scheduled?
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Is there separate scoring for major/minor for Tac pistol?
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I got the Coyote V1 competition rig.
I'll be trying it very soon.
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Let me guess.
You hadn't cut the slot enough?
Nope.
I was testing it while the barrel is out getting threaded for a choke. Without the barrel, the bolt was going too far forward not allowing the lifter to go all the way up, and by only 1/16" or so.
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ignore
I figured it out.
choke tubes
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
I used to have a cylinder bore. I had to shoot pretty stout loads with the largest shot allowed to knock down steel at any distance. Usually 1 1/4 oz. it was nice to see two plates go down at once on a plate rack. I had it threaded and only have a modified which has worked fine.
My o/u clay gun has two of each. : )