AH6IP
-
Posts
523 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by AH6IP
-
-
What Scott said.
-
SX2 is a far superior platform than a Remington for 3 gun. The Browning Gold is the Ferrari of the three.
-
Scott-
The woman who shot your gun probably caused the failure to feed by "limp shouldering" the gun, similar to "limp wristing". But cleaning is a good thing.
-
Yes, the bolt can be lightened (a little). Just remember-with most guns you can go to a lighter recoil/action spring when you do this to lessen felt recoil-the Gold you can't and still have a reliable blaster. There is no noticable gain by doing so.
-
May i suggest a Browning Gold 20 gauge? Light, low recoil, loads fast, and just a way cool gun, especially with a one piece magazine tube system. OH, just happen to have one of them babies!!! Weighs in at under 6 lbs, and damn it is fast, fast fast.
JL
-
Does your chamber have a ding/cut/scratch it it? Does it fail with all your magazines, or just one or two? Do you have the extractor O-ring in place with the spring? Are you using de-linked ammo-that will surely do it. The brass gets alot of dings and cuts in it when you break it apart. One other thing-are you using and adjustable gas block, and is your gas ring ok?
-
Edwin-
Let me add some interesting facts on your extraction problem. I too built an AR10 from Armalite. It did exactly as you described. As it turns out, they have had a bad batch of bolts/extractors a while back. Apparently the extractor cut is out of tolerance relative to the bolt face. You can find this info on Armalite's website under technical bulletins AR10 extractiion check. I called them after measuring the bolt IAW with their instructions, then sent it back to them. Got a new bolt and extractor, and have never had another problem. Before doing anything else, I would check your specs on the bolt/extractor first. It could be the root of your problem.
Jerry
-
Oddjob-
PM sent!
-
Oddjob-
what info are you looking for on the BPS??
-
So, it's a moot point for USPSA-it's a requirement while uncased, etc. Obviously, for other matches it will up to the MD, and if it makes you feel any safer, then flag your chamber. You just can't control everything-i.e.-is his bolt open or closed, hell, is it loaded? while carried around in the case? You can contingency this one for a long time.
-
Has anyone had an AD with their long guns while NOT on a stage of fire?
-
Depends on if you're running trips or duals!! LOL.
-
Blade-Tech DOH, and get an extra tek-lok belt loop system with it. You can switch it to IDPA legal with that.
-
The .300 WM started life as a M700 Sendero. Pulled the barrel and trued the action and bolt, shortened and threaded for the brake, then re-installed the barrel. The .308 was my first gun bought in 1968. A Win M70 in .243. I pulled the barrel, trued the action and bolt, and put a Shilen select SS match barrel after cutting a Palma match chamber, cut to 24". Ok, I didn't build the .50, just tricked it out a little. Badger Ordnance or TSR rings and bases and all are sub MOA guns, eating A191, A165 and A576, etc.
BTW-Yes, that is a SS 20X42 on the .50, and it holds up just fine to the big gun, always coming back to zero. Matter of fact, they are on all of them (10X42 on the .308)
-
PM sent. The problem with the Saiga's is that the well has dried up on mags and other associated pieces and parts. Until someone steps up to the plate as an importer again, it could be a real long drought!
-
Aaron-
Did you get my email reference stage and prize sponsorship? I sent it to the email address you listed in your first post.
JL
-
Dave-
It was the Nov/Dec 2003 issue. I used a small plastic scoop for the buckshot. The buckshot is to big to meter through the tube of a MEC. It is a little time consuming, but you fill up the shot cup of the wad, and then add or subtract as needed to make a level load. Use a standard crimp and you are done. BTW-I use Rem STS primers and Rem STS hulls. I like them way better than Win AA. I have never had any problems with the loads.
-
Mickster-
I wrote an article for Front Sight a while back about loading up #4 and BBB buckshot for 3 Gun. I used standard 1 1/8oz wads and Clays for 1175 fps for a real nice low recoil but very effective steel load. But it is still all about the choke you choose. IC or Lt Mod for the range you mentioned. No spreaders!
-
I think the "real" issue with this scope is-we all want to see everything we can see down range. That big a dot just covers up to much information for me, and probably for the rest of you. You can make ANY scope work for you with practice, but why make it hard? KISS principle.
-
Yep, I took a look at that one. If the glass is clear and it illuminates nicely and half as much as the Horus, it will rock.
-
Eric-
Get the Eagle Arms lower and you can get every other part from Armalite to finish off your project, to include the upper receiver.
-
Let me clarify, I meant the outer ring being a little thicker, not "larger". If they got that dot 1 or 2 MOA, and since we're on it, instead of their "holdover" pattern, just make a simple ballistic holdover for 200, 300, 400, etc. They would rule 3 Gun with that reticle in this scope, especially if they could find a way to really illuminate the outer ring for CQB stuff.
-
Nope, the dot is to damn big. And in the first focal plane.
-
What Benny said. They are made to fit the factory dovetail and work great.
As far as a ghost ring, unless you shoot a boat load of slugs, I think the fold down will work fine for you with the HiVis front.
1100 Comp Mstr Vs. Sx2 Pract. Vs. Browning Gold?
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
As much as I would love to do a conversion on everybody's Gold, let me say that getting a 24" barrel 3" model is a great way to start (even a 3.5" model). You really don't need to cut the barrel back (to hell with those that make it mandatory to have a 22" barrel), and you can add a mag extension and go shoot. Now, there are a few things I HIGHLY recommend doing to them, and polishing the bolt/carrier is one of them. That's why mine work good!