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spitboy

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Posts posted by spitboy

  1. I've ordered and received more than once this year, sometimes via winning the Powder Valley lottery (getting there at the right time ...), also by regularly checking all the major folks, also if/when any offer ability to backorder, to take advantage of that. Get on the alerts for stock, watch the threads for 'in stock powder, get some friends to hunt with you. (Powder Valley, Grafs, 3rd Generation Shooting Supply, MidSouth Shooters Supply, Midway USA, Brownells, etc.)

    If you consistently put the work in, over time you'll get some. If you don't have the time to do that, use the info above to Fetterly, he'll ship, just view his premium on items and shipping as $$ in exchange for the time you didn't have to put in hunting for it, and being able to get NOW :-)

    do you think it will be less available since VV was sold to another company? Company sale can sometimes result in supply issues...?

  2. What weight bullet?

    For 165gn jacketed and 231/HP38: almost no data. One manual--start 6.3gn and MAX 7.0gn.

    For 180gn jacketed and 231/HP38: start loads range from 5.1-5.9gn and MAX loads range from 5.8-6.7gn.

    For 200gn Jacketd and 231/HP38: start loads range from 4.6-5.6gn and MAX loads range from 5.6-6.5gn.

    I always start at the lowest start load I can find.

    I'm running 155 montana gold...I just got a Thureon defense carbine in 10mm. Want to get that rockin

  3. I don't remember where I learned this but I like it for my swage adjustments...take a case with the primer punched out. Take a sharpie black pen and color the primer pocket. Blow it dry. Swage the case and look for the black to be rubbed off. Adjust for more or less.

    I've got a video I posted on here of my press processing military brass. Check it out. The video shows a fair amount of swage effort on the shell plate. With that I've had zero issues with wcc headstamp taking CCI primers. My bro in law shoots competitive up in Lynden wa ...uses wcc brass on a 650 with no primer issues.

    When I've under swaged my results looked like the pics...

    Spit!

  4. Another misconception is that crimping is necessary to hold the bullet

    in place (not pushing back into the brass, or setback).

    That's accomplished by the sizing die, believe it or not -

    by making the case tight, the case holds onto the bullet and won't

    allow it to shorten - called bullet setback.

    Setback is dangerous. If you set your OAL at 1.25" and the bullets

    get setback to 1.15", you can increase pressure dangerously.

    As you're setting your crimp, you should try to push some bullets

    back into the case (push very hard) and then measure the new

    OAL. It shouldn't be shorter than before you pushed the bullet

    back.

    If it is, then you have a sizing die problem and the answer is

    not to increase the crimp. :cheers:

    Thanks!!

  5. Eric, I presume you're belling the cartridge case to make it easy

    to seat the bullet.

    If you don't remove the belling, the cartridge won't fit into your

    chamber.

    "Crimping" is really the wrong word here - we "crimp" for heavy

    revolvers to keep the bullet from working out with heavy recoil,

    but with semi-autos we don't really "crimp", we remove the

    belling.

    Removing the belling seems to be mandatory if the cartridges

    are to feed properly. :cheers:

    Yes I guess that is what I'm doing but I thought that was also keeping the bullet from working out under recoil.

    Thanks for the response...it's giving me a new perspective

  6. I too have a Forcht modified super 1050. I added sensors and a microprocessor to cut power in a jam or if primers powder or bullets run out. Yield about 1000 rounds an hour

    Here's it in action processing military brass. Video was cell phone so a bit distorted. Processed about 100k so far and loaded about 23k.

    In regards to 300 blk out I think the super 1050 would handle it...fun project

    How did you mount the microswitch near station 7/8? Did you just drill into the press?

    Yes drilled into the frame then tapped it

  7. If you are using the undersized .40 die that is the problem. It has a lot of resistance and you will not be able to run the press smoothly.

    Try using a standard .40 Lee die. It will get rid of the bulge and be smoother while loading.

    You cannot load smoothly with undersized dies.

    Also, try using a little more lube. I use a big Ziploc bag, pump 10 times of Dillon lube in the bag, dump brass in there, and seal/shake a bunch and then use it.

    DougC

    do people really lube 40 cal brass?...I dont lube 10mm ...never had a problem. Are you using carbide dies?

  8. Hi all -

    If no one minds me asking, what sort of electric motor are these automated systems running? Are they just general purpose 0.5hp 115v 1725rpm motors with a VFD or more specialized low rpm units? Pardon my ignorance, I don't have much experience in this area.

    I've been looking for a project to start with my father and we would like to tackle building one of these on our own. It seems I've got quite a bit of reading to do.

    Thanks!

    Here is the Specs on the motor on my auto press

    http://catalog.orientalmotor.com/item/ac-motors-gearmotors/bh-series-induction-motors/bhi62f-g2

    I have this exact motor

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