tcoz
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Posts posted by tcoz
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I use either RMR or X-Treme plated bullets and like them both equally.
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johnbu, at times I've been almost embarrassed to admit that I still tumble with corncob with everybody else wet tumbling with stainless pins or using ultrasonic but I don't want to deal with having to dry my brass afterwards. I have zero dust problem that a lot of people talk about. It's probably a combination of the media I use, the solid lid on the tumbler and the quartered dryer sheets that I throw in. I've been using the same media 2-3 times a week for over a year now and it still cleans well.
You're definitely not low volume by my standards. I load six calibers and have probably gone through half what you have all combined but I've probably loaded twice as many because I enjoy it so much. I use a Redding T-7 and load everything including pistol in batches. Gotta love it to do it like that.
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4 hours ago, johnbu said:
I don't see how the 3000 finished rounds can use the go/no go gage easier than in a tumbler.
Lol. I guess I wasn't very clear that my first concern was weeding out potential loose ones in the finished ammo. Sorry for any confusion.
I also deprime resize on the press as they are being reloaded. Yeah... I'm one of "those guys" that still hasn't converted to cleaning wet with pins, so using the gage would add much to the process currently used.
I'm also one of "those guys" who hasn't and probably won't convert to wet tumbling.
The gage can't be used on finished/primed rounds. I do a final inspection of my brass after cleaning by laying a batch (50 cases) out and rolling them. While they're laying on their side I just quickly slide the gage in and out of each primer pocket and it adds little time but then again I'm not in any hurry since I reload a lot more than I shoot.
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5 hours ago, johnbu said:
Even in the media? I was thinking of just rattling a couple hundred without media to allow any loose ones to drop out.
I stand by my original recommendation of the Ballistic Tools primer pocket swage gage. IMO, it would take less time and effort to use the gage on each case than to run them through the tumbler again. Like most everything in reloading, the time and effort required to add a process depends on how the process is integrated into your normal procedure.
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I just loaded about 2500 rounds and it only added a couple of seconds to check each one during the brass inspection process.
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You can pick up a primer pocket go-no go gauge and quickly check each one..
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When you look at .45 load data there isn't a distinction made for large versus small primer so I say it really doesn't matter. I change back and forth without adjusting.
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It's fine for the decapping pin to be below flush with the top of the die so just lower the pin a bit. It probably won't take much.
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I use a Chargemaster for rifle so it would be hard to have a mistake like this occur but that being said I still reweigh every tenth charge just to be sure. For pistol I use a Lee Auto-Drum where a mistake like this would be more common and I weigh every fifth charge.
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Try the Auto Drum and if you don't like it all you've lost is $35.
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I keep the Lee Universal Decapper in a Lee hand press for quick depriming
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I feel the LCT is without a doubt the best press for a new reloader as well as the experienced reloader who doesn't need the volume of ammo the Pro can put out. With the turret you'll have one process going on at a time so you'll be less likely to make a mistake while also learning exactly what each process does. You can let it self-index for pistol rounds and then remove the index bar and use it as a single stage for rifle rounds.
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12 hours ago, Sarge said:
Yikes! There is no way I would want to assume the liability of selling known defective reloading components. And 20 bucks for defective primers is not a good deal.
Both Everglades and Magtech are assuming a huge liability risk here. It certainly isn't worth it to me to try and save less than a penny apiece by buying these regardless of what I was using them for. You also wouldn't catch me trying to pull the rounds I loaded that had the duds after they've been "fired" at least once.
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I cant really say that theres anything special about the FCD. Like many things we reloaders do, you just try something and if it does no harm and you feel it just might help, you tend to add it to your relosding process. As I mentioned in my post I feel it might just help correct any bullet runout. I don't have a runout gauge to test this but I'm satisfied with the results I've been seeing and I'm too old to learn new tricks.
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I mentioned in an earlier post that I use the Lee Factory Crimp Die on all rifle rounds but I should explain that a little further. I can't really say that I apply a "crimp" in order to prevent bullet setback or otherwise grab the bullet tighter. I just have it set to very lightly put pressure around the case neck just to make sure that it's uniformly holding the bullet around it's circumference. I feel that if the seater isn't seating the bullet exactly straight, the neck might be ever so slightly distorted and just putting very slight pressure around it as a last step will even it out. I visually check runout afterwards and after using the FCD, I never detect any. I use cannelured bullets but would still do this if they weren't.
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Best advice as others have said is to visually check every single case for powder. Weighing finished rounds is a waste of time and can be dangerous if you don't recognize a squib and fire another round behind it.
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ruleyoutoo1911, did you notice that they also have a neck tension gauge? That's a new item that I'm considering ordering.
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X-Treme bullets
Rocky Mountain Reloading (RMR)
Monmouth Reloading
Starline Brass (IMO the best new brass at a reasonable price)
Almost every online forum has a "Classifieds" sub forum and fired brass is the the most commonly sold item
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For about $12 you can't go wrong with this go-no go primer pocket gauge. After I decap and clean my fired brass I run each case through the no go side before doing anything else. If it's brass that I haven't loaded before and may have had crimped primers, I run it through the go side and if it passes then it goes through the no go side. All if this only takes a couple of seconds per case.
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Matt, it's a sharper thinner point too, making it easier to feel a groove. Make sure that you get a metal one and not a plastic one.
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I don't cull cases if they feel rough inside, only if I can feel a groove at which time I'll look inside with an LED flashlight to verify. I found this works better for me than a bent paperclip:
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How could the store be so sure it wasn't a customer who mixed them? I'm in CCIs corner on this one.
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AMERC is the only headstamp that I chuck.
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I'm starting to feel that we're very close to seeing the prices of components bottom out. I can't imagine these bullets, for example, getting any cheaper and if you look around you can find some great prices on primers and powder as well. Every time I think I've stockpiled enough I see better prices so I buy more.
Gotta go now so I can order some more Hornady 55s from NE Reloading....
Lol. I guess I wasn't very clear that my first concern was weeding out potential loose ones in the finished ammo. Sorry for any confusion.
Unis Ginex primers
in General Reloading
Posted
Based on the number of people suffering misfires/light primer strikes, it appears that they may be slightly oversized and therefore difficult to get properly seated.