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Posts posted by Revofan
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I read the same thing but ..........nothing ?
anyone know Al ? Has an inside scoop on what’s up ?
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I was wondering the same I bought a 38sc barreled open gun and want to convert it to 9
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38 minutes ago, Rich406 said:
There is a VIP link on the Rudy project shooting team Facebook page. It varies but its usually 30-40% off.
https://www.facebook.com/rudyprojectshooting/
Thank you
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I would like to try a pair of Rudy Project glasses
are there any discount codes available?
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8 hours ago, Archangelgt said:
Kroil! I was trying to remember the name, that's what AAC told me to use to help break up the carbon on their Anodized aluminum baffles that are notoriously sensitive for cleaning.
Also another possible option is toothpaste, I used it once to clean off the carbon on a SureFire light that had a ton of carbon build up. But it did take off the anodizing to, so be sure to first try in a small area where you won't notice if does effect the finish.
I actually did try toothpaste because that’s what I use to clean The blast residue off the glass on my Cmores
it took some off but not the burnt on s#!t
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9 hours ago, Yondering said:
yes, Flitz or other metal polishes will do that, so will lead remover patches.
Fast evaporating solvents like brake cleaner and laquer thinner are not very good for removing carbon. WD-40 and other oily solvents like kerosene, diesel, etc do a much better job, but you'll need to put some elbow grease into it as well. You could try some fine steel wool, or copper or brass scrubbing pad (i.e. Chore Boy pads).
Chrome is pretty hard and durable, you don't need to worry about damaging it with most chemicals, just avoid abrasives like polishing paste, scotchbrite pads, or sand paper since all of those will change the finish.
I was thinking the same
I’ll try Brake cleaner first and go from there
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my time is limited only have time to work on Guns reloading etc on the weekends I’ll let you know what works this weekend
1 hour ago, zombywoof said:Well???
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Will it change the finish
make it looked polished ?
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I can’t speak for the new dvc
but I’ve been shooting a island barrel limited pistol and totally love itas far as a huge difference from a slide mounted site to a barrel mounted not anything significant
I agree with what others have said a steel grip would be better then island barrel and if you like the DVC grip just get one on a brozos tuned edge or get a brazos tuned dvc -
I did try mineral spirits to no avail
I’ll try some of these other ideas before ordering boartech product I’ll leave that as a last resort
thanks all
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Any other products or home remedy’s
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21 minutes ago, MikeyScuba said:
We don't have open guns but this stuff works for carbon crud
But is it safe to use on hard chrome finish ?
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33 minutes ago, echotango said:
hoppes 9 should remove most of it. I use it around my brl holes and works great.
It didn’t work I even used the foaming hoppes
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Sweet swag !!
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On 12/1/2019 at 10:07 AM, tyr264 said:
Cowboy,
Interested to hear that Sig might replace the LCI barrel. I have a M17 with the LCI, and in using it for CO, it's a pain. Do you have any info as to how easy it was to get Sig to swap barrels?
I’m interested in this as well I would like to swap mine out as well
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On 3/18/2017 at 3:25 PM, Avedis said:
As MPOM said, it is likely a timing issue. The gap on your trigger bar loop (candy cane) is opened too far. This allows the striker to be released prior to the striker block clearing. This robs the striker of a significant amount of energy, resulting in light primer strikers.
To fix it, reduce the size of the gap on the trigger bar loop. This will fix your timing issue and allow the striker block to fully clear before the striker is released.
If you have another M&P, that you know works fine, go dry fire it. It will make a crisp clicking/snapping when dry fired. A gun with incorrect timing will make more of a dull thud noise when dry fired (depending on how off the timing is).
Essentially, you are doing the OPPOSITE of this:
Yes this was my issue as well until I watched this video and I also installed an extra power striker spring
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I just bought an E2 aggressive can’t wait to slap it on
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59 minutes ago, IDAHOAASHOOTER said:
I meant magwell, not just mags. I obviously wasn't paying attention to what the f*#k I was typing.
Are you saying atlas magwell also fixes mag insertion problem?
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3 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:
What's funny is PT used to say this wasn't a problem, and the user was just "doing it wrong" etc. Then Limcat released a magwell that fixed this nonexistent problem and suddenly PT is making a similar magwell that does the same thing. They'd of been in a much better place in my eye's had they responded differently when shooters pointed this out, and then came up with a solution instead of denying it and attacking customers then copying someone else's solution.
Yup I remember reading this thread you mention
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13 hours ago, IDAHOAASHOOTER said:
Atlas mags won't stick either, and they are heavier.
As far as I know atlas doesn’t make there own mags they just tune em
so you would still have same issue with mags sticking ???
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M2i builds great guns and is a pleasure to deal with
and he knows what shooters need because he is a multi championship winner in uspsa
Sti 2011 springs and followers ?
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Sti 9/38 140 mags
What’s everyone using for springs and followers ?
And why ?
ive been Using grams for both with no issues
just want to see what other options are out there before I refresh my mags
thanks in advance