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straightravage

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Posts posted by straightravage

  1. Just got done at the range.

    I made rounds with 9.6, 9.7, 9.8, 9.9, and 10.0. I could only tell the difference with the 10.0gr. Those felt like gun was punching my hand!! All the other loads were smooth. I couldn't sense the gun was mad.

    With that being said should I keep my original loadout?

    9.6gr @ 1.235oal?

    Thanks.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. Ya... I am waitng for a good time to shoot with my Jedi Master. He has a chrono and said we will check each load. Def need to go back and remember to hit those 25 and 50yd markers. Coming from limited shooting .40, it seems like the .38SC is making a hole in the paper before I pull the trigger! Damn this gun is AWSOME!!!!!!!

  3. Finally made it out to the range yesterday. And GOD DAMN THAT DVC 38 SC IS FLIPPING AWESOME!!!!!!

    It is my first open gun, but I am in love! I ran 60 rounds through it and not one issue! Btw, my first time reloading as well. Sighted the gun at 19 yards. At 7 yard the impact point 1.3" low. I was too excited to remember to shoot at 25 and 50yds.

    So I did make 9.6gr pushing 124 jhp @ 1.235. When I shot, with a good grip, the dot bounced up to the very top of the glass. It didnt appear to go above the glass.

    After speaking with my local Jedi Master, he recommended I now make rouds and increase the grain by .1 all the way 10.0gr. While leaving it at 1.235.

    Looking forward to see if I can find the right load to keep the gun as flat as possible. It porbably wont happen since my gun has no popple holes. But i am hoping to get close!

  4. How much bounce is ok in the glass? I have a DVC open .38 SC. It's loaded with 9.6gr of 3N38 pushing a 124gr MG JHP with 1.235 oal.

    I went to sight in the optic and it was pretty on after unsung a bore sight laser. Just a little tweaking.

    When I shot, the dot stayed in the glass. It just bounced all the way to the top of the glass.

    Is that normal? Or is it good enough? If I put more powder and increase the oal, will it flatten the gun a little more?

  5. Reibtrain, I just got a STI DVC open in .38 SC. I loaded my first rounds... 124 MG JHP, 9.6 gr 3N38, 1.235 OAL.

    Can I ask why you run 1.266 OAL? Adding more room accomplishes what? and do you think 1.235 will run good in my setup? Thanks for the help!

  6. I just received my XL650 and starting setting it up. My primers are seating what seems to appear flush. Not slightly below the case.

    So this my first time reloading. I had it set up with .38 super comp from Dillon. So....here my issue, I don't think I'm pushing the handle all the way forward to the stop. It does feel like it's going all the way to the stop like it normally does when just dry running it.

    Am I being a little girl? I am using CCI small rifle primers in new Starline brass.

    Should I continue to push the handle all the way forward, it should have been set up from the factory correct, correct?

  7. Not sure if this is the place to ask, but does anyone know the trjectory for .38 Super Comp?

    I am running a MG 124gr .355 bullet pushed by 9.6 grains of 3N38 out of a stock DVC open?

    I want to sight in at 15 or 19yds, but I not sure what the trajectory would be at both distances.

    Also, which a better range to sight in at?

  8. The high primer concerns me! That should be your first and foremost situation to resolve. After that you can move to case gauging. Once you find what caused your high primer, you may also find why you may have a sizing problem.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    +1.....the high primer is more of an issue than a few rounds that won't chamber. It might just be the pic but it seems like the primer seating depth isn't very consistent in those rounds. I'd work on that first.
    I am also new to reloading. I have a 650.

    When you say he needs to work in seating the primers....is there anything different then following the 70's video on YouTube from Dillon on the 650 about setting up all the dies? I mean is there more information on just the primers alone? The more info I can get the better off I'll be.

  9. I am sure you know this but reading your first post kind of leaves it in question but the 9mm is a tapered round, the base is not the same diameter as the 38 super & sc. You have to have different dies & different shell plate. Just have a different toolhead for each caliber & the appropriate shell plate & locator buttons. Changeover is simple. Not sure though with a bullet feeder........?

    Enjoy your new hobby but take it slow & easy at first.

    MLM

    Do you know if the Dillon .38 Super dies work for making .38 Super Comp???

  10. I went to pull the trigger on the Dillon square B for .38 Super (dp20099) one website, but after looking at the manufactures website I noticed that there was another model for Super Comp (dp20115). Will the Super (20099) work for loading Super Comp.

    I went at looked at the RL550B and the manufactures website doesn't have a version for Super Comp, it just has one for .38 Super.

    But, the 650 calls out a version for Super Comp.

    Can I please get some help determining if I can buy the Square B with .38 Super? That's the best bang for buck. Id like to not spend more than $500 on the press alone.

    Thanks!

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