packeagle
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Posts posted by packeagle
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https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2017/3/7/coated-bullets-the-future-of-lead-bullets-for-handloaders/
This is the article that lead me to think WSF would be better. They loaded the same bullets with VV 340 and Power Pistol.
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I've been trying to make an accurate load for my Shadow 2 to shoot a 25 yard bullseye match once a year. I shoot rimfire most of the time but this one match is center fire only. So, I'm using my Production/Multigun pistol.
I have 125 Grain Missouri Bullet Company Hi-Tek SWC that I've worked up a reasonably accurate load with HP-38, but I think a slower burning powder may do a bit better. I picked up some WSF. I have to seat the bullets to 1.050 to load in my CZ properly. Anyone point me to some load data using WSF? Starting low, but with the reduced case volume I'd like to have some point of reference with this powder.
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I'm looking to load this bullet for my Shadow 2. The OAL that passes the plunk test is 1.045". I'm worried about case volume and pressure. I'm trying to find a starting load for HP-38. Any and all insight welcome.
Bullet:
http://missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=207&category=5&secondary=8
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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Looking to order some Rudy Rydon with rx insert. They have two options. The semi rimless plastic and the metal frames. Not being able to try them I'm having a hard time deciding. There isn't much info widely available on the inserts. I'm sure we can find a Rudy sponsored shooter to chime in.
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Looking at a Shadow 2 for USPSA Production and 3 Gun. I just started to shoot PPC and a bullseye style match for the shooting club at work. Would the Shadow 2 meet the requirements for Stock Service Semi-auto? Specifically the sight radius and trigger pull weight? Neither are listed on the CZ webpage.
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Thanks. Really helpful.
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Anyone shoot Police Pistol Combat that would be willing to answer some of my questions?
When shooting Match 7 stage 4, what is the standing shooting position. Is it standing with cover and support?
Is all of stage 4 shot in one 90 second course of fire? 18 shots, 2 reloads, 3 positions.
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This photo is worth 1000 words.
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Check that you put the spacers in properly. Flat curved flat retainer. Might help.
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When I ordered the MOA kit for my bolt release and she'll stop I removed the shell stop and this pin fell out. I believe it was under the bolt release button between the spring. It's the same depth as the button. Is is needed? The YouTube I watched on install didn't mention it.
Second, I took my M3000 in to get the port opened up. The guy opened it up down to the lettering, and said ATF requires the manufacturer's name and country designation be left intact like the S/N. Is this true? I see lots of people are cutting into it. I think I'd like to cut down farther, but being new to 3 gun don't want to over do it.
I keep catching the second shell on the top of the magazine tube when loading. Do I just need more practice or should I open the port further forward towards the magazine tube?
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Ended up getting the NC-1. Found it for $68 to my door and I can add rail sections down the road if I need it. Figured having that option was worth a bit more than the double star. Nordic seems like a reputable company in the sport. Look forward to installing it and running the M&P until I feel I need to upgrade. Honestly, I'm impressed with the budget rifle though.
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That EMR V0-E looks to be right up my ally. For the extra money I get the QD sling socket and the ability to add a front sight if needed. I've looked into their rails in the past but I didn't want to put out $160-170 dollars for a rail on a $400 AR. This V0-E must be newer.
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I'm new to the 3 gun world. I don't have much experience with working on the AR-15 platform. I am looking to get into 3 gun with my M&P 15 Sport. I have a Vortex Prism on the way and want to eliminate or shave down the A2 FSB and put a cheap free float hand guard. Looking at the Double Star Rifle Length Free Float as a cheaper option. Does anyone know if a gas block will fit under this? I'm open to suggestions on free float rails and hand guards under $100 as well.
Also, shave down the FSB or buy a low profile gas block? Seems like shaving down the FSB will take some work (read margin for error), but so will dimpling the barrel for the gas block. Shaved FSB is cheaper.
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Good info. Thanks!
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That's why I want one. Just have a FSB. And you can't co witness. As I planned with a RDS. So, I want to make sure I can shoot "around" the FSB with the 1x prism.
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I've been using a Vortex Spitfire for the past 4 years in Limited, and at least 3 years of that I haven't actually turned it on at a match as I find the black reticle to be more then enough to shoot close up targets with no issue. This year I picked up a Spitfire AR with BDC dial, I'll still keep a standard 300 yard zero but I'm going to put a 500yard mark for those stages that have real far shots so I no longer have to float the "dot" above the target. Also I might put in a 15 yard zero mark for those "bay" only matches.
Do you have a Front sight. I'm trying to keep costs down and get into factory with my current AR with A2 front post.
Astigmatism killed the idea of using a dot. -
Ended up ordering the extension tube from Nordic. Still hoping MOA will get their stock replenished. Want to buy the extended controls from them, but they show out of stock still.
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Thanks! I got you. That's good to know. That's how I read it too, but I would hate to buy a +4 extension and want longer later. Now, if I could get MOA to respond to any of my emails it would great!
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I'm new to 3 gun. My local club holds 3GN Club Series matches and I'd like to join in on the fun. I shoot a Glock 35 (15+1) for IDPA and have a 1x red dot on my AR. So I think factory division is the division I'm going to be most competitive in with my current gear. I just got a 26" Stoeger M3000 I'd like to build into a budget friendly Factory Division Shotgun. I'm looking at buying MOA precision parts and need to decide on the tube length. I was looking at the rules and it seems to say that 8 in the tube and one in the chamber at the start of the stage. At the same time it seems as if I remember seeing a lot of people going with longer tubes and topping off on the clock (possibly in different divisions). What would 8 (4+4) be the proper tube length for Factory?
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please delete was a duplicate post.
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I use this with a 180 Acme @ 1.28". Came out to 786fps out of a 4.25" M&P.
What bullet weight is this recipe on and what recoil spring weight were you using on your pistol?3.8 gr W231 - Coated bullet - very accurate, reliable and whacks the steel
Oh. I use a 14lb in my G35.
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From someone who wears a system like this almost daily, I suggest getting some type of belt keepers. You don't need many with the Velcro inner belt. I have the same problem and wear two spaced evenly on the back, and next to longer runs of pouches, but I'm going to steal the Velcro on pouches idea.
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Spoke too soon. Picked up 8lbs for $149 today. Not too bad. Glad to have it back. I'll be saving the 2bs of HP-38/Win 231 I have left for a rainy day.
THat's a good price. I saw an 8 lb jug months ago at a LGS and they wanted $180.I've shot the 3.0 of Clay's and the 3.8 of Win231. Both with 180s. I prefer the Clay's but I can't find any Clay's yet. So I've been doig the Win232 load for IDPA.
I picked up an 8lb Clays at the PA gunshow last week for $144!
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I've loaded Extreme 180s RNFP for a while. Went to Acme same profile. Didn't notice any gain or loss in accuracy between the two.
Starting load for 125 gr MBC SWC Hi-Tek
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Thanks. It's a start and it's a higher charge than I was initially thinking. My COL is .1 or more less than most of those and the bullet profile is such that I'm sure my seating depth is deeper.