[Glock 17 FTF Issue]

On 12/15/2020 at 9:23 AM, Braxton1 said:

I wish I could see this malfunction in-person.  It looks like the slide simply stopped right as the bullet nose made contact with the feed ramp and started upwards towards the chamber mouth.  That is an uncommon place for it to just "stop" like that.

 

Is there any chance that the Recoil Spring is simply worn-out?  Major .40's can be pretty brutal on springs.

 

If that's not the case, I might start looking at the magazine.  A few years ago, right after the Gen3 guns came to market, there was a factory change from a 10-coil Magazine Spring to an 11-coil.  This was done because the reliability of the gun suffered whenever running a light on the rail.  At my department, we found that the 11-coil springs were so tight, some female and smaller-statured shooters couldn't rack the slides.  Sometimes they'd even have a short-stroke malfunction in live-fire.  The mag wouldn't allow the stack to move downward to accommodate the stripper rail coming back.  We had to have them download the mags by one round.

 

I say all that to say this:  If the comp is bleeding off enough slide energy, the slide may be wanting to short-stroke on its own.  Add in a tightly-packed magazine and maybe a worn Recoil Spring, you could set up this malfunction pretty easily.

 

The cartridge is actually cocked slightly sideways, to the left. The nose is hung up on the left edge of the chamber mouth.

[Glock inc back to making 1st Gen 17's]

P80? Sounds like the initials for polymer 80, the 80% grip frame more recently sold for those who want to complete the build, add a slide and enjoy a pistol without a serial number. Just like a ghost AR lower.....

[Glock 17 FTF Issue]

Was shooting a Gen 3 G35 first as limited and later as an open gun with Carver Custom frame mounted DPP, threaded Double Diamond barrel with two slot compensator, tungsten guide rod with uncaptured factory recoil spring (17#) and a brass back strap secured magwell. Used local range reloads for several years without a problem. No data on the reloads. Shot the gun competitively for a good three years without a problem including almost two years with the reloads. I do not reload. 

 

Last year began having a similar problem with failures to feed, 2, 3 or 4 times a 250 round match. Set the gun aside after changing to lower recoil springs did not solve the problem. Photo included.

 

Have decided the range reloads that served me well for years need to be replaced since they are unknown factor/quality and I don’t have access to a chronograph. I was seduced by the price and nickel plated LAPD range brass.

 

I have the following factory ammunition in storage:

 

Armscor 180 gr, 953 FPS with predicted PF 171.5

American Eagle 165 gr, 1130 FPS with predicted PF 186

Federal Range 180 gr, 985 FPS with predicted PF 177

Federal Syntech 180 gr, 1010 FPS with predicted PF 182

 

What recoil spring should I start with, what should I look for other than the absence of the malfunction?

 

[MOS or Milled slide]

On 11/12/2020 at 2:30 PM, Cuz said:

Yeah, I know this is an old thread, but now it concerns me, so it's time to revive it.  I have a G41 slide I want to put an optic on.  But, I'm not 100% sure which optic just yet.  Is there anyone out there milling a Glock slide for a plate system like the MOS?

 

Also, who are the preferred sources these days to get a slide milled?

 

Thanks all.

 

 

I am currently looking at the Agency Optic System or AOS for my G19. Thinking about getting a G19 Gen 3 slide milled by them while retaining pristine the OEM slide with matching numbers.

 

There must be someone out there who has already gone the AOS cut route who could comment. 

 

http://www.agencyarms.com/optic-cuts

 

 

[anybody back to Glock after CZ / Tanfo ?]

6 hours ago, Mustang684 said:

Over the years I've switched around between the Witness, M&P, Glock and now STI for Limited. Every time I switched, I eventually transitioned back to my Glock 35 just because the muscle memory is there and it hasn't had any major failures.  Tried a stainless CCF frame which worked really well until it broke, experimented with a wolf frame but eventually went back to the gen3 frame. I have an Edge now but still use the G35 as my primary limited gun for matches and 3-gun. Just wish I could figure out how to stop the peening on slide and side of the barrel. Put a frame weight on it, and it seems like its getting worse.  

 

Photos of the peening please.

[Striker channel liner question??????]

I have never changed a liner, but would the brass one go in and out more easily?

[Where on the rail do you mount your Red Dot on Ruger PCC]

21 hours ago, Hihellosup said:

Using an eotech, this is my experience:

 

If you shoot both eyes open, the further back the sight is, the more space you have for your dot to exist. This is because the viewing area is larger. You can see the dot sooner when mounting the gun, and an easier time tracking it in your peripherals during transitions. The "downside" is you have more space that neither eye can see from your barrel/handguard/sight housing blocking your field of view. This is below your sightline though, so it's up to you whether you care about that.

 

Moving the optic forward reduces how much of your handguard/barrel/sight blocks your vision, at the cost of having less space for your dot to exist in your field of view.

 

Unless you have something going on like your charging handle hand slamming your optic mount, or your glass is getting smoked, shoot both eyes open and mount it as far back as you can without it hitting your face.

 

If you shoot 1 eye open, mount it as far forward as you can, because the optic housing blocks more field of view the closer it is to your eye, now that you don't have your other eye granting you vision past it.

 

Thank you. That was very helpful. My background was rifle with scope at 100 yards, typically with only dominant eye open. Since I took up USPSA with pistol and now PCC I have tried to sue both eyes open, but often find myself reverting to dominant eye only. It is hard to develop new habits. 

[Red dot for G17]

It’s an acquired taste!

[Red dot for G17]

Or

 

 

Or you can take a totally different approach, like my night match and home defense Gen 3 G17. This is an old photo. It now also sports a matching rely ALG Defense magwell. 

[Zev Optimized Barrels]

This new LCI trend (Sig P320 X Five Legion and now Zev) appears to be an attempt to meet a requirement of certain restrictive states without adding moving parts

[Ruger PCC concerns]

10 hours ago, Frozen said:

 
Failure to Eject:
  You probably have already done this, but make sure the barrel nut is snugged down tight.   Keep two screws that attach bolt to stock torqued to 65 inch pounds.    Volquartsen making new extractor.
I did not see the extractor on volquartsen web site??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That’s all part of the post that I copied and saved. No promises, just the information from a fellow shooter.

[Ruger PCC concerns]

Elsewhere in a huge Ruger PCC thread on RugerForum I read that extraction can be compromised when the takedown adjust is a little too loose. Read the whole thread and copy pasted out of it a few tidbits, of which this was one:

 

Failure to Eject:

 

You probably have already done this, but make sure the barrel nut is snugged down tight.

 

Keep two screws that attach bolt to stock torqued to 65 inch pounds. 

 

Volquartsen making new extractor.

[Ruger PC9 M-LOK Problem]

Got a Streamlight flashlight with a tape switch that mounts on a 3” segment of M-LOK rail. Installed the light on the right side (3 o’clock) and put the tape switch on the top (12 o’clock) so I could activate it with my left thumb while holding the carbine.

 

Went to the range to zero my MRO and got it just about dialed in when the section of rail with the tape switch rail came loose. Removed it and the flashlight, then shot again and was way off from the almost zero. Checked that the MRO was not loose. Went to put the section of the rail back in place and realized the M-LOK screws hit and slightly depressed the barrel. The barrel is not centered in the handguard.

 

The rail segment is from Bravo Company.

 

It appears the design of the PC9 doesn’t allow actual use of the top set of M-LOK slots.

[Super heavy guide rod experiment. 5.4oz]

Do you think there is friction between the rod and the bushing that slows down the slide? Could the springs be binding on the thick rod?

[Springs/Triggers/Sights for 34 Gen 5]

14 hours ago, earlan357 said:

The problem is two-fold.  The Glock dustcover isn't very stiff, and since it's plastic, the rail isn't as repeatable to fixture as metal.  Also, the "finger" moves in a straight line, so as the trigger rotates past 90 degrees, the finger essentially moves down the face.  If it starts lower, the "finger" will roll off the tip.  Since the trigger rolls down the face, the leverage increases.  You can see it in the graph where the lines flatten out before the break.  Calculating the effect is difficult since it's hard to get accurate measurements of the pivot points, worse with curved triggers.  I thought about using a servo to pull the trigger with an arm that matches the rotation, but nothing small enough makes enough torque.  I gave up on trying to get "real-world" numbers since everyone pulls the trigger differently and there's already so much variance between individual Glock parts/frames.  The point of the video was so someone could get an idea of how an aftermarket part might change compared to what the already have, but not necessarily predict the final result.  In the future, I want to test some claims made by internet "glocksmiths".  Some of their ideas make sense at first, but when you start digging into material science and tolerance stacking, some of their claims don't seem to be backed up with actual metrics.  For instance, anyone who claims their Glock trigger is "like a 1911" without hard data other than a few readings from a trigger pull scale.

 

Thanks for the detailed and thoughtful response.

 

It appeared from your examples that the work to move the trigger bar, depress the firing pin safety was pretty similar between the triggers, so that anything that reduced pull in your examples simply decreased the slope of the wall, making it less wall-like, and therefore, perhaps more mushy, the more the total pull was reduced.

 

Have you looked at the impact of changing the firing pin plunger spring weight? Those springs are pretty inexpensive....

[Springs/Triggers/Sights for 34 Gen 5]

Thanks for doing all that work to quantify differences between triggers.

 

You mentioned that your rig might be pulling on the trigger a little higher than your actual finger does. Certainly that would shorten the lever arm and require a little more force. I presume that means if these combinations were measured using a pull or pressure point further down the trigger, the forces might be lower. Any idea how much lower?

 

You also mentioned that pulling higher might exaggerate the differences between various trigger and spring combinations.

 

Would it be possible to redo some of this work on the parts you already have, but with the pull point lower on the triggers? Would that be more “real world”?

[G17 barrel in G19]

How much longer? Would a G19 threaded barrel with the thread protector left on do the trick?

[Favorite Sights for Matches]

Sooner or later as your eyes age* your arms will not be long enough to see the front sight in focus. Then you will recognize the benefits of a red dot sight and competing in the carry optics division.

 

The sooner you accept the inevitable and progressive aging process, the sooner you will begin to work on the new muscle memory required to work with a red dot sight instead of irons.

 

There is an argument for this transition even before aging makes its influence known. After all, the military chose some time ago to equip the troops with ACOGs, essentially none of whom “needed them” because of aging eyes. That was no small investment.

 

Nearly all my guns have red dots now. The one that doesn’t has Trijicon HDs which work as standard glowing dots at night, but in the daytime a black rear and bright orange dot front. That still works in a pinch for this 69 year old.

 

I have no experience with fiber optic sights indoors and defer to others with that expertise.

 

*this is called presbyopia and refers to the gradual reduction in your natural lenses ability to zoom from far to near vision and explains while most with age need reading glasses or bifocals then trifocals. Some shooters use “shooting glasses” where one eye is corrected to focus on the front sight and the other to focus on the target. The red dot sight allows both eyes to focus at distance.

[Zev OZ9 Carry Optics rules clarification? (aftermarket slide)]

Is there a way to ask the USPSA this question to get an official answer? We are all just guessing in our interpretations of the rules.

[What mount for standard C-more on the Glock 34?]

Sorry. Forgot to copy the link I had found before posting my response.

 

https://www.carvercustom.com/ecommerce/carver-handgun-scope-mounts/carver-glock-scope-mounts/competition-glock-scope-mounts/carver-competition-glock-c-more-mount.cfm

 

s2000red was able to read my mind over the internet and gave the link I forgot to attach.

[What mount for standard C-more on the Glock 34?]

Will this work for you? The mount clamps on the rail and stabilizes itself with a long screw through the frame in place of the trigger pin. There may be other variants on the website.

 

I have their mount for the DeltaPoint Pro and found it works great. Even took it off and put back on without losing zero. 

[Favorite optic for PCC]

Got a Holosun 503GU Elite (green circle dot) and loved it on my Ruger PCC for steel challenge. Then brought it to a rifle/PCC match, USPSA like stages with longer shots out to 50-75-135 yards for PCC and up to 350 for AR-15s. Was going great on a stage, three shots three hits at 115-135 yards and was running over to the rest of the stage where there were typical USPSA barriers and targets from 5 yards to 30 yards when the green dot went blank. Unfortunately the base was solid, so I couldn’t see the irons. Total disaster. Went over to the berm safety area with a new battery, thinking mine was dead, when it shouldn’t be since the whole set up was still pretty new. Lo and behold the circle dot was there but it was on the dimmest setting. Cranked it back up and finished the remaining two stages.  What happened? The stage was filmed and my hands never went anywhere near the brightness controls. The PCC didn’t get banged into anything either. The darn thing just arbitrarily went dim. A week or two later went ahead and moved my MRO over to the PCC and put the Holosun on an AR I rarely use. Very disappointed. Haven’t shot the MRO yet, but will miss the Holosun. The circle was great for CQB phases and the center dot was great for the long range stuff. 

[New Ruger PCC Stock & Chassis]

On 10/25/2019 at 7:22 AM, Zincwarrior said:

I actually like the older "rifle" style. The market is awash in AR style PCCs.  Plus I think it will survive better legally over the next five years.

 

This ^^^.

 

Living in California where this would be an assault weapon: telescoping stock, pistol grip, I waited for the “Gen2” with old school rifle stock, no pistol grip, but more useful M-lok handguard and added the TACCOM3g upgrade package. No registration versus featureless design issues. 

[Glock 34 gen 5 with jager guide rod]

7 hours ago, earlan357 said:

Coil bind is then the coils stack up against each other and essentially creates a solid tube.  If the spring is coil binding, the slide will not travel fully to the rear.  On a Glock, the slide's rearward motion is stopped when the slide rails at the muzzle hit the front of the frame rails.  If the slide is stopped by the spring, the impact is concentrated on the relatively thin tab of steel under the muzzle (although G34s have an extended tunnel).  To test, I stick a piece of tape on the frame and slide, pull the slide fully to the rear without an RSA, and mark the tape with a sharpie.  If the marks don't line up with the new spring installed, it's binding.

Lots of factors, ammo, slide weight, and your grip mean you'll need to experiment to find the right recoil spring weight for you.  For a G34 with 115gr range ammo (or any ammo around 130PF)  a 13# spring is a good starting point but don't get to caught up in the weight number.  The way to test recoil spring weight is to shoot the gun with your competition ammo and observe how the muzzle returns.  If it returns high, generally you want more spring weight to push the muzzle back down as the slide returns to battery.  If it returns low, then less spring.  The actual spring rating is irrelevant.  What matters is that the gun returns to the target quickly regardless of what spring ends up working out.  As mentioned earlier, if you reduce the recoil spring weight, you'll probably need to use a lighter striker spring to prevent the slide from unlocking as the trigger is pulled.  5# is considered the lightest spring a stock Glock striker can use before risking light strikes, but many people report success with 4.5# even with CCI primers.  4# usually requires softer Federal primers to ignite reliaby.

 

 

Thanks! That is way better than my answer would have been. 

[Dawson precision sight heights?]

As DWS wrote earlier and rephrased to reinforce:

 

We are individuals with varying grip, sight picture, hold, trigger pull, etc. No one guy can begin to know what is best for the next guy. 

 

Shoot your own gun, figure out your POA/POI knowing your own technique and preferences. IF you are not happy then consult Dawson for fine tuning while also considering the nuances emphasized by tha1000 immediately before me.