peterthefish
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Posts posted by peterthefish
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Perhaps you didn't read the post of yours that I quoted? "Fast". Not fastest. Not powders X, Y, and Z. Again, I'm just trying to provide a little context for those who are reading your comments.
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You will significantly exceed max pressure using fast powder and 124s. You will no doubt go +p+ before you even reach PF.
I'm just going to bring this post up under your post above to provide some context about what you bring to conversation. Titegroup is a pretty commonly used fast powder and can easily be used to make minor safely.
Your conversation with someone at Western Powders aside (assuming your recollection of that conversation is better than your recollection of your conversation with Kneeling Atlas), it's clear you're a bit green when it comes to reloading. You might do well to soak up a little more knowledge in that arena, because at the rate you're giving it away what little you have won't last long.
/PS +P+ isn't a Spec. I'm assuming you meant to say 'beyond +P'.
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Congrats. Still remember my two like it was yesterday, enjoy. It's cliche, but the time really goes by too fast.
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You can also email DAA and they will send them.
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Peter this wasn't the black boxes of AE you get from walmart or other gun shops. It was a bulk box from Cheaper than Dirt. Seeing as I ditched the cardboard box and the remaining is in an ammobox I don't remember the brand however I believe it was AE. Difference being the 5.56 AE I have purchased from wal mart ( 20rd black AE box) runs flawless never had an issue. it seems the issue has come from the remaining ammo I have from the CTD purchase. good thing it's almost gone.
The primer however is not pushing out of the case, but merely blending flush with the case and has no radius what so ever its become very flush and almost one with the bottom of the case.
Cheaper than dirt isn't exactly some dinky fly by night outfit passing off reloads as first quality ammo. You don't need to remember the brand - post a link the the product - it will be available in your order history.
The last poster got it right re: primer signs.
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I have an mpx and was told the 9mm round is to violent for the aftermarket trigger. Not sure I understand why that Is. I would like to try one in the mpx as the stock one kinda sucks
chris
Would it be fair to say you have an MPX and you were told that the 9mm round is too violent for an aftermarket trigger? -
If head space is bad the primer is most likely pushing way out of the case before the case is thrust back against the bolt, causing what appear to be pressure signs in the primer. You wouldn't be likely to get incipient case head separation signs after a single firing even of a hot load.
Post a link to the ammo you bought. AE is good quality and shouldn't be the root cause. I'd say it's more likely explained by a head spacing issue.
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They're not painted, they're anodized. The anodizing can be worn off. The silver ones are non-anodized. If you want your gear to stay looking new just use it for matches and don't practice. Your competition will thank you.
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You need an unramped bolt. I had the same issue w the same trigger. It's the bolt.
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What about winchester? How do they rate?CCIs are great but harder than S&B / Federals.
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Teh suck. Hardest to insert and they flip out of my primer slide and go flying. I gave away 3K of them after switching to CCI / Fed.
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i came to the office monday morning after a weekend out of town to find that the usps had left a pistol that was shipped to my ffl on the front walk about 5' from the door. I would had never known it was there had someone taken it. needless to day i called the post office and told them about it.
Should have been sent signature required...
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Thanks for the replies. For those who start at low ready, do you still use a timer?
Yes. I'd personally drop .5 secs from the par for a low ready.
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CCIs are great but harder than S&B / Federals.
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If your goal is 95% of points and you avoid Ds, Mikes, and NSs, you need to hit 75% Alphas shooting major, or 90% shooting Minor...
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Grabbed an Arredondo +3 - looks goofy, fits fine, less severe on the palm when smacking the mag home.
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I just did mine. Well, didn't totally replace, but flipped it over (the bottom was degraded since I usually leave it half full). Got it started, then turned it over and whacked it on a piece of plywood until seated square.
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I only ever see them in stores at Cabelas. Picked up 5K a couple weeks ago.
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That's kind of what I figured. How is it getting consistently accurate powder throws with 3.6 gr of the e3? I forget, stick, flake, or ball?
Flake. I have to take out my powder baffle to get you most consistent throws.
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But not friction.Wouldn't the cart roll at different speeds for different shooters (e.g., a 250 lb adult vs a 90 lb junior)?
Gravity works the same for every one.
Rolling friction coefficients for hard wheels on track are so low weight is for all intents and purposes negligible.
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...shim for the powder measure so it wouldn't rotate,
Tell me more about this? My only squib ever came about when my powder measure unlocked and got pushed up instead of dropping a charge in one case before I noticed. Now I check it every time I refill the primer tube but if there's a permanent fix I'd be happy!
Also, Hornady (and RCBS) CS have been great to me too. They don't brag about No BS but they sure deliver on it.
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Wet tumble. No pins unless it's rifle brass that I trimmed (they deburr case mouth).
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DQ or
Did he break the perf?
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I use 4.9 GR under a 180 SNS at 1.170. Makes 173 out of a 5" barrel. Probably do a ladder from 4.8-5.2, and figure out OAL from 1.165 - 1.120 for what passes plunk and feeds the best.
Fastest powder with lowest charge weight?
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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Boy, I better throw out the N320 and TG I use to make major in 40 with then, since there's no way I'm getting any real good velocity safely. To say nothing of my N310!