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peterthefish

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Posts posted by peterthefish

  1. I'd like a priming system like the 1050 where the depth is set. However, not all cases have identical size primer pockets, so if you have the machine set to seat .003 below flush and the case / primer combo can't handle that, it's managed via shell plate flex or the case rim gives. Instead, use a spring (heavy duty / 50K cycle life) to give first, so we can minimize adjustment to seating depth.

    Beyond that need one more stage than a 1050 to run a powder check before the bullet feeder.

    Must be easy to automate.

  2. Hazmat and shipping makes for expensive primers at 5k.  But it beats being completely out.  



    I think the 5K limit may be Federals. I've bought more than that in one go from PV recently (CCI SPP and SRPs). Add some powder and it evens out.
  3. Look for dirt and debris inside the tumbled brass. Found caked dirt in one case which would have caused an outrageous overpressure. Also try using a Lee Factory crimp die to avoid bullet setback.



    Looks like overpressure / weak brass to me. The Lee Factory Crimp die is more likely to cause setback than it is to stop it, especially with cast bullets. It will swage the bullet and brass down with sizing ring but the brass will spring back to an extent - the bullet not so much.
  4. Fair enough, but just to illustrate my point, what percentage of alphas do you shoot?  Less than 95? Less than 90?  That would piss me off. Others would say that if you're hitting that many alphas, you're going too slow.


    Shooting 90% of alphas means you're shooting 95%+ of points available unless you're racking up Ds or penalties. If you're shooting more points than that and you're not an elite shooter you are likely moving too slowly to maximize your score. It's not hard to shoot all As on most stages. Doing it quickly on the other hand...
  5. I think you'll find those bullets represent a poor value (vs coated or jacketed bullets sold by firms that cater to reloaders) but looks like a good start.

    The bullets probably cost $.12 - $.14 each, vs less than $.07 for coated or about $.09 vs Precision Delta JHPs.

  6. Aside from the fact that the heavier charge will have slightly more recoil as noted above, the gas will also most likely be at higher pressure when the bullet leaves the barrel for the heavier charge. This means more muzzle blast which can also be perceived by the shooter.

    I'd be surprised if the difference between the two loads was not noticeable while working up loads, but in a match you'd probably never notice the difference.

  7. Race gun problems. Whenever I load the gun from an empty chamber the first shot hits low and right. About 3-4" off POI at 50'. It seems to be worse with some bullets than others. Below is a target showing the problem with PD 124s at about 1.155". When I shot another 5 rounds after taking that pic, the first shot was again low and right, touching the low right hole you can see.

    740c19ace95aa2f7f7f46a2d290184a4.jpg

    Any thoughts on what might be causing this? I mean it seems apparent that the slide isn't going into battery when being loaded the same way it does when it's cycling from firing, but I'm lost for a more specific explanation.

  8. Why?

     

    What you should learn is that when there is a jam, be superbly deliberate about visually checking the charge level in the next half-dozen  rounds afterward.

    When loading, I give each case a lazy partial glance most of the time. As long as they aren't empty or overflowing (depends on powder you use, obviously) then I know the Dillon measure is ticking away properly.

    After a jam occurs, I get hyper vigilant for about 30 seconds.

    So far I've loaded 50k or so on a 650 without ever loading a squib or a double charge.



    This. When I have a jam I pull the case under the powder measure and make sure the one under the bullet feeder is not double charged. Throw all the cases? Just don't make sense.
  9. My feelings are double charging, a bad batch of Ti that was the wrong alloy (ie alpha alloy instead of alpha-beta alloy), manufacturers rely on certifications from material suppliers so it is possible of a mix up. Or a cylinder that was never heat treated after it was annealed for machining. Titanium is a hard material to work with and is easily screwed up. With S&W the way they have been in recent years not only is a manufacturer defect just "possible" its "probable" .



    A double charge was at fault in the first case, and likely the second. The probability of a materials defect in an S&W revolver is much closer to 0 (by orders of magnitude) than the probability of a double charge.

    Don't confuse errors made by $12/ hour assemblers with manufacturing defects that you clearly have no experience with.
  10. Ty seems to have done a LOT of work and research, listen to him. 

    My 627 with 38 short colts love the 160 RN, and are ok with lighter jacketed but doesn't like lighter lead/plated bullets.  But a 929 might like lighter weights due to twist and bore size.  But save yourself time, listen to TY.



    The 929s definitely seem to do better with long bullets.
  11. D&L Shooting Supplies. Got their name by inquiring through CZ sales. 



    They have some sweet guns. Saw a 9mm Valor there for $1400 the other day - they stock a lot of DWs (probably part of the CZ relationship). They had a new and used Havoc in 9mm the other day.
  12. Never tried it without the pins.  Seems like it would kind of defeat the purpose of getting really clean, new looking brass. 

    Do the primer pockets and insides of the cases still get clean with no pins?



    Still looks new outside. Primer pockets and inside of cases get clean enough. The small amount of carbon that remains works as a lube.
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