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Posts posted by Iowashooter
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Are you loading dueces or quads?
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Ryan could you please post a picture of the finished product.
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Also I like to practice feeling the reset of the trigger on all my semiauto's. I stay on the trigger through the shot and then release and feel the reset and prep and squeeze again. It creates enough lag time for me that I won't outrun the bolt. For me this aids in accuracy in rifle and pistol, but is probably futile with the shotgun, however I like to have the same fundamental accross platforms. To see this in perfection watch some of Jerry Miculek's Youtube videos with his slo-mo cameras he still almost outruns the gun. but just as the bolt locks up the hammer falls.
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I aslo use the burris P.E.P.R. mount and I like it alot as well, provides great eye relief and a solid mount at a great price.
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I currently shoot a tac30 I have no issues with it so far. There are some amenities that I do like abot the mtac such as the dial for the illumination opposed to the button etc. Although for the money the tac30 was tough to beat. I like the reticle but it is tougher on precise long range then hash marks
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AK's do it, MSR's do it. That is why there is a forward assist on MSR's if the rifle isn't all the way in battery the hammer will fall on the bolt and not the firing pin. If you watch Tom Knapp (R.I.P.) in some of his videos he talks about outrunning the gun and this is what he is referring to (Tom Knapp shot Benelli's). It also allows a user to release the sping tension on the hammer if storing for an extended period without dry firing. You walk the hammer down on the bolt as opposed to dry firing. Now every gun has a different point at which the hammer will actually fall, and this will equate to the likelihood of a malfunction happening. I can't say it happens on all guns but I know it isn't a rare thing. With a bolt gun you can even squeeze the trigger as you close the bolt and that will walk the striker down without dry firing.
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When you say miter saw do you mean coping saw. I think a miter saw would be pretty rough? The attchment is a coping saw. Just trying to be extra clear so noone ruins there forend
A miter saw works excellent for this. I used a miter saw, a Dremel, a file and sand paper. Then rub some oil on it and it almost looks factory.Mark, how do you cut the forearm back? Would you use files or sandpaper on a Dremel? I've yet to find a how-to on this.
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I also called my deaker for a quote, and he quoted me $1335.
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Mark could you post a link here I can't find your page on my cell
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If you google the SKU 81029 you will see some online retailers have their prices listed at about 1350-1450. I am looking forward to seeing one in person.
Versa max fast firing "bill drill" - is this a "defect"
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
Well with the Vortex warranty it won't matter. Not to mention he probably has 6 NIB on the shelf behind him in the intro.