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Posts posted by neckbone
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You can adjust most of the slam out of the powder measure (not all) by increasing or decreasing the spring tension on the failsafe arm. Play with the spring tension and you should be able to smooth it out a little....
DougC
The bent-in part of 17838 part caught on mine (when changed over to .45) and made a slamming return condition. It's pretty smooth now and the only major thing I did was adjust more spring tension into it like Doug here has suggested. At first I thought the bent in part was supposed to cause a slam to settle powder. Not sure what other purpose it would serve.
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Getting ready to load cast bullets in my .45.
Does anyone know the diameter of the STI bore?
Thanks
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I fondled a SA RO yesterday, and it felt very similar to the Trojan. Very nice piece.
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I hate the greasy smear marks they leave on my hood and grille. Spandex threads are hard to get out of the swing mirror joints, too.
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I'm new to .45's.
What bullet weight is suggested for IDPA?
Need to order some, but unsure what weight.
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I decided on the STI Trojan.
Thanks for all the suggestions....which were good.
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On the leading edges of the base plate in my G34 gen 4 are worn to where the plating is peeled back exposing the copper.
The photo is poor, but the problem can be seen a little.
Is this a normal wear for 2k rounds down range?
http://s303.photobucket.com/user/rag_18/media/G34/100_2745_zps9747c6d1.jpg.html
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Would like to pick up a .45, but want something that would be usable in IDPA.
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It is with an uncleaned barrel (hundreds of rounds through it) using 4.8 grs Unique under a 115 plated RMR bullet.
It seems the barrel warms and the velocity drops off. Not strange in itself, but more severe than expected.
The first round or two in Benchrest Comps is fired into the bank, just to get the barrels attention. But there, we are grouping 0.200" in 5 shots.
I don't think what I'm seeing with my pistol is affecting accuracy that much. My extreme spread on 10 shots runs 40 to 70 fps warmed up. The powder drop on my Dillon varies 5% which is about the velocity variance.
Pistols sure are different from precision benchrest. LOL
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I been working up a load for a G34 gen4 with RMR 115gr plated bullets and Unique powder (OAL = 1.145")
A load of 4.8 grs averages out at around 1,150 fps +/- 30 fps. PF = 128,800 to 135,700.
Look good to you guys?
The velocities are much higher than what the manuals predict !!
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While testing loads with a crony in low 40* weather I notice that the velocities drop significantly after the first mag is shot.
The Glock 5 1/4" barrel's first clip is 40 to 50 fps higher than the remaining shots.
I expect this, but not to this degree.
Is this a normal thing?
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where can Powder River triggers be found?
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Jshuberg , your above comments/instruction has made things right. Placing the weak hand thumb base rearward reduced the flip and resulted in nice return to battery. Had a good session at the range this afternoon. Thanks to all.If the gun is moving in your hands, and your holding it at least as tightly as you hold a hammer when pounding in a nail, the problem isn't grip pressure, it's hand placement or grip uniformity. It doesn't take very much grip strength to keep the pistol from moving in your hands. If you need a death grip to keep it from moving, your hands are wrong. You should look to solve the problem where the problem actually is, rather than solving all control problems with "I need a stronger grip". You should be running a thumbs forward grip, where the meat of the support hand fully contacts the pistol where your weapon hand doesn't. This will likely result in your support hand being canted forward more than your weapon hand. There should be physical contact completely around the entire grip of the pistol, and your grip strength should be uniform on both sides. The more surface contact between your hands and the pistol, the less pressure you need between your hand and the gun to provide sufficient friction that the gun won't move under recoil. The majority of your grip pressure should be between the back of your hands, where they mate together and contact the back of the pistol. If you are primarily using your fingers to apply grip pressure to the gun, the back can more easily move under recoil. The muscles of your fingers are also very weak compared to the muscles in your hands, wrists, and forearms, so relying on finger strength can cause shaking and fatigue to occur faster. When your main grip pressure is between the meat of the base of the hands at the rear of the pistol, you maximize the physical contact on the gun. Finger pressure simply locks it in place. When the back of the gun is very solidly held in place, and you pre-tension your wrists forward towards the recoil pressure, your hands become a spring. You should be able to fire a round, and have the gun come back to where it came from without any additional muscle movements or effort. This isn't all about grip strength, it's about hand placement, and uniformity of pressure around the grip. Hope this helps.
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If the gun is moving in your hands, and your holding it at least as tightly as you hold a hammer when pounding in a nail, the problem isn't grip pressure, it's hand placement or grip uniformity. It doesn't take very much grip strength to keep the pistol from moving in your hands. If you need a death grip to keep it from moving, your hands are wrong. You should look to solve the problem where the problem actually is, rather than solving all control problems with "I need a stronger grip". You should be running a thumbs forward grip, where the meat of the support hand fully contacts the pistol where your weapon hand doesn't. This will likely result in your support hand being canted forward more than your weapon hand. There should be physical contact completely around the entire grip of the pistol, and your grip strength should be uniform on both sides. The more surface contact between your hands and the pistol, the less pressure you need between your hand and the gun to provide sufficient friction that the gun won't move under recoil. The majority of your grip pressure should be between the back of your hands, where they mate together and contact the back of the pistol. If you are primarily using your fingers to apply grip pressure to the gun, the back can more easily move under recoil. The muscles of your fingers are also very weak compared to the muscles in your hands, wrists, and forearms, so relying on finger strength can cause shaking and fatigue to occur faster. When your main grip pressure is between the meat of the base of the hands at the rear of the pistol, you maximize the physical contact on the gun. Finger pressure simply locks it in place. When the back of the gun is very solidly held in place, and you pre-tension your wrists forward towards the recoil pressure, your hands become a spring. You should be able to fire a round, and have the gun come back to where it came from without any additional muscle movements or effort. This isn't all about grip strength, it's about hand placement, and uniformity of pressure around the grip. Hope this helps.
Although the movement has been reduced, the return to battery isn't as good as I would like, or expect. I wasn't sure I had the hand placement thing correct either.
A trip to the range today may be in the works and I'll incorporate your description of hand placement and see how that works.
Thamks
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Ok, we are making progress.
I cut two panels from a grit coated stair tread (home depo) and attached to the gun grip. My new front sight (FO) from Dawson arrived and I installed that. I like the narrower post and the red stands out in sunlight very nicely.
Cranked out 200 rounds at the range and saw improvement. Weak hand was solid. Strong hand needed to reposition slightly for proper trigger finger position after several shots.
I'm looking for the best grip tightness. Too much causes sight movement (shaking) and too loose lets the gun shift. I'll find what works.
Sight recovery improved to where double taps were not embarrassing. At 15 yards I was hitting 'down zeros' with respectable split times; not fast , but ok.
So, the muzzle flip seems somewhat tamed due to the help from you folks. Many thanks.
Now practice, practice, practice......
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I fired over 300 rounds today.
I concentrated on "what was happening" during recoil.
Keeping the eye on the front site through recoil was not possible because it lifted so high.
Also found that the gun was rotating (up) in the support hand grip to where the hand had to be re-positioned (re establish the grip).
I knew that would be the case.
Your strong hand it doing the work of "holding the gun in recoil". I think you need to get to where the support hand is doing that work.
Yeah, you called it. I couldn't grip with the left hand hard enough to stop the slip and rotate. I will be picking up some grip tape today. More pressure with the right hand helped quite a bit. Pro-grip stuff sounds interesting, toothguy. May look into that.
Thanks.
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Looking at 45's.
Any thoughts on this piece?
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I fired over 300 rounds today.
I concentrated on "what was happening" during recoil.
Keeping the eye on the front site through recoil was not possible because it lifted so high.
Also found that the gun was rotating (up) in the support hand grip to where the hand had to be re-positioned (re establish the grip).
This was corrected somewhat by moving the hand forward to where the base of the left thumb was pressed against the right hand finger tips. This would keep the left thumb from sliding on the grip surface as much. May need better friction surface.
What helped a return to battery and less muzzle flip was increasing the right hand grip pressure.
When trying to speed up the second shot there is a tendency to anticipate recoil with the predictable flinch. Had to fight that off.
Overall, I saw improvement, but it does not seem natural just yet.
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Thank you.
Have printed it.
Will study/use.
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I know, use a better grip. I have beat that one to death.
Nah, you have work to do yet.
Agreed. The above posts have convinced me. Heading to the range today to focus on many of the suggestions.
Thank guys.
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My G34 muzzle flips up too far for fast recovery and rapid second shot.
I see other shooters with mild flip and more straight back recoil.
I mentioned the lack of flip to a steel shooter at a match yesterday and he pointed to someone else who's gun and ammo he was using.
The other fellow said it was his magical load. It wasn't proper for me to pursue the issue with a match in progress.
So, I ask the question. What loads increase/decrease muzzle flip on a 9mm?
I didn't think it made that much difference.
I know, use a better grip. I have beat that one to death.
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I was a very, very, hard core smoker (3 packs/day) in 1977. A one on one session with a hypnotist and I haven't had a smoke since. I was awake and aware the whole time. He suggested that if I choose to stop smoking, I would not suffer withdraw.
IT WORKED.
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Dawson Precision .245" tall X .125" wide fiber optic front sight.
Dawson Precision Part No. 528-021 Warren Sevigny rear sight with .150" wide notch.
Thanks, that gave me a toe-hold.
I like the Dawson FO 160H x 125w.
My stock rear sight is 150. It has elevation and windage adjustment...no sense changing that.
Looks like it may be a good combo.
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New shooter to IDPA w/G34 gen 4.
I would like to replace the sights with Dawson set; green FO front with plane iron rear.
But there are so many choices that my head is spinning.
Anybody with a suggestion?
Lubricating main shaft 550b
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
They need lube??