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Fureio

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Posts posted by Fureio

    Brand New STI EDGE, is this what $2200 pays for?

    in 1911-style Pistols

    Posted

    I read a book on how Japan took a large chunk of the US car market away from Detroit by concentrating on the best quality product they could build and accepting lower profits in the beginning until they had a good chunk of the market.

    It worked so well for Japan partially because Detroit was arrogant & lazy, I'm not sure that describes STI.

    and because union labor costs 10X what japanese labor does...

    STI won't lose the market to any of the niche builders any time soon. The STI aluminum grip is less than $300.00 everyone elses is more. The STI frames are right about the same price as any of the alternatives. You buy an Edge or Eagle or Trojan and have issues you send it back and they fix it. Your slide cracks after a couple years and the fix it, then they re-finish the gun and tune it up. You get an almost new gun out of the deal for FREE... These new start up type guys probably have not even thought about building up warranty reserves. STI has had a fe QC problems lately but they are standing behind everything they have ever sold. Having to deal with very picky customers will be fun for the start up guys... My gun rattles... did you shoot it? No, it rattles... Is it broken? No, it rattles... OK, send it back... we will pay the freight both ways and take a look at it...

    I have to disagree with you here. Let's bring things into perspective. $2200 is NOT a drop in the bucket. It's an investment. You are opting into a high end product with the reputation that places it above the rest. The reason shooters agree to pay an exorbitant price is to gain a product that is placed above the typical $800-$1500 mass produced 1911.

    It is NOT unreasonable, selfish, or picky to expect what you pay for. Personally - If i wanted something with tool marks and loose slide fit - I would go with a lower priced option.

    OP is very just in his frustration, STI markets their pistols in a manner that puts their products on par with custom built guns.

    Have we forgotten that the $3-$8k price range pays for 1 semester of tuition for college? Granted it's not Harvard - but it's definitely not something the average US worker earns easily.

    Am I over crimping my rounds?

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    Really good idea to check your OAL for your gun with any particular bullet - just drop the

    bullets into your chamber and see how they fit - could be the bullet catching the rifling.

    Thanks for the suggestion. The bullets haven't made it into the pistol yet. This snug fit happened when i slid the bullets into a case gauge. The OAL test passed but i had to push the bullets into the gauge to have them fit all the way. Length isn't the issue, its the width that felt tight. That's why i thought going with a tighter crimp would help.

    Am I over crimping my rounds?

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    I use Berry's plated round nose bullets sized at .452. rounds enter snug friction caused by setting the bullet put striations on the side of the bullet.

    Have you tried seating the bullets just a little deeper?

    Seating? Do you mean OAL? I set that at .125. That seems to be the standard OAL for 45 acp.

    Am I over crimping my rounds?

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    I pulled the bullet and noticed that there was a ring on the bullet, but the plating wasn't pierced. Is this ok, or will i experience FPS loss or loss in accuracy?
    You're fine. As long as you don't break the plating it will be fine. As mentioned above, you may not be belling the case enough which might be why your bullets are getting a little marred. I load a lot of Berrys and if I pull a bullet the only way you know it was loaded is the faint line where it was crimped.

    Thanks. Reading this, i may just bump the crimp to .470 with the case measuring .471 before it gets sized (flared). Is it a better idea to just bring the crimp back to the exact measurement the case was before flaring?

    Am I over crimping my rounds?

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    1) Did you size the case? Yes.

    2) Did you expand and flare/bell the mouth of the case? Yes. Apparently i need to bell it out more. I didn't want to overdo it and overwork the brass.

    You need to flare the case mouth enough that the bullet being seated never touches the case mouth. I understand, the problem is that this setting is hard to observe while looking at videos.

    3) The crimp needs to be just enough so the round will drop in the barrel and fall back out. I don't like to crimp so much as to mark the bullet. The crimp isn't going to help hold the bullet and you don't need to damage the bullet.

    4) Have you chamfered the cases inside and out? If not, the case is likely to have a sharp edge that can dig into the bullet. You only need to chamfer a case once. Yes. The bullet didn't appear scratched nor were there indentations. What I saw looked similar to drawing on a wall with crayons, only this was with gun powder residue.

    Dillon DVD

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    I bought a XL650 from Brian a few months ago and wished I had purchased the DVD. If this isn't your first press, you probably won't need the DVD. If you are like me, and bought the 650 as your first press - GET THE DVD! Youtube is full of moans groans and unboxing videos. There isn't a video that explains how to set up from start to finish.

    The paper manual assumes you are seasoned reloader and doesn't explain things from a brand new reloader perspective.

    The manual I got with my press is out of date. Dillion has changed the angle of the bullet feeder support arm that holds it in place. The bullet plate is installed differently on the strong mount. The optional strong mount puts the press on top of your bench.

    One last tip - If you decide to get the strong mount... DONT mount it to the center of the table. You won't have enough clearance to fully lower the roller arm. You want to mount the strong mount no more than 1.5 inches back from the edge of your bench.

    Am I over crimping my rounds?

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    I use Berry's plated round nose bullets sized at .452. Currently. I'm using Winchester once fired brass and a Dillion XL650. Before i sized the brass, I measured the business end of the brass at .471. (Measuring at the very end of the opening) I set the crimp die resize to .471. Using the DIllion Case gauge, i notice that the rounds enter snug and dont just slide in and out of the gauge freely like the factory ammo did before i shot it. I pulled the bullet and noticed that the round had some marring - no plated material removed, no dents or damage to the round. I noticed that the friction caused by setting the bullet put striations on the side of the bullet. No harm. Berry's plated bullets aren't manufactured with canneleure in place. Crimping to 471 causes no indentation or piercing of any kind on the plating.

    Reading posts on crimping on these forums, most people recommend a crimp from .468 to .470. I chose to crimp to .469. The possible issue is that this crimp causes an indentation, or a slight canneleure on the bullet sides. I pulled the bullet and noticed that there was a ring on the bullet, but the plating wasn't pierced.

    Is this ok, or will i experience FPS loss or loss in accuracy? I'm currently doing load testing and want to ensure I don't botch the test batch.

    Berry's 230 gr Plated RN / Bullseye / mixed brass / WLP primers

    in 44/45 Caliber

    Posted

    I wanted to make sure this recipe is safe, as the COL looks way too short.

    I went with 1.20 COL - Since I am using a mix bag of brass from Federal, Winchester, and Remington once fired bass - the COL variance is anything from 1.19-1.22

    I am starting my load testing at 4 grains and going all the way to 5. 10 rounds per .2 grain bump. Since this is the first batch of rounds going through my XL650 - and the COL looks shorter than any round i've put through my 5 inch barrel Kimber - I wanted to see what you all thought. Thanks for any input you may have

    Any suggestions for 9mm Major loads in a Glock?

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted · Edited by Fureio

    Pete, sounds like you are confusing 9mm minor with 9mm major.

    The powder and bullet you describe would make a GREAT 9mm minor load - not a

    very good MAJOR load.

    You want a slower powder and lighter bullet. :cheers:

    I appreciate you taking the time to point me in the right direction. It's not so much that I am confused, it's that I still need to do a lot of reading :D

    My understanding was that the heavier the weight, the easier on the recoil. It makes sense that a bigger bullet leaves less room for powder. I'm sure I can get the local supplier to quote me on 124 gr copper plated RN.

    Any suggestions for 9mm Major loads in a Glock?

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted · Edited by Fureio

    I've been researching threads on this forum for a month now and can't say I am any closer to figuring out what load to use for a compensated (major) G17 racegun I am having Zev build for me.

    Here is where i stand:

    • Decided to go with Winchester small pistol primers. I may use Federal primers as they are softer. I am concerned about light strikes since I will be using the Zev lightened striker/firing pin.
    • Whenever I actually find a supplier who has powder in stock, I will begin building a loading using WSF or N320. Right now the only powders i'm finding are IMR and AA #2. From what I understand, AA#2 isn't a good powder for a comp'ed race pistol since it burns too quick. What are some good powders for a major comp G17? I read this thread but there isn't much data on the particular load i'm looking for. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=164439&hl=%2Bbest+%2Bpowder+%2Bfor+%2B9mm+%2Bmajor+%2Bpf#entry1830569

    • I cant seem to find a local source for Berry's 147 grain bullets. I may just go to a local lead caster and have 147 gr RN made. I am not sure if I should load lead or Copper jacketed rounds. Is this weight ideal or should I start development with 124 gr rounds? What's the determining factor on choosing the type of bullet to go with?

    I use as Dillon XL650 with all the trimmings. I am finding a lot of great data searching the forums, I'm not finding a lot of data for my specific situation.

    Thanks for any suggestions - including the reminder that search is my friend :goof:

    Pressure signs on brass

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted · Edited by Fureio

    I see a lot of posts and replies on these forums referring to pressure signs on brass.

    As someone soaking up as much info as i can on reloading - what do the pressure signs look like on brass?

    I plan on reloading major for 9mm out of a G17.

    Thank you in advance!

    www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=128959

    Search function is your friend.

    Thanks for the suggestion. As a beginner, I had no idea that primers bulged out of their pocket under high pressure. The thread you linked can only be found if a newbie already knows that primers go flat under high pressure.

    Thank you to the other respondents. Great info. That 38Super.net write up is excellent!

    Issue with brass ejected from Kimber Stainless Target II

    in General Gunsmithing

    Posted

    My primary range gun is this awesome looking gun. I'm wondering if the dings i'm seeing on the spent brass is normal.

    When I shoot my Glock 21, the brass doesn't have any dings. When I shoot WWB out of the Kimber, right around the middle of the brass, there is always a ding, sometimes there is an outright dent.

    The one and only time I shot Tul Ammo Brass Maxx out of it - the recoil was way more violent than normal and the brass was way more dented than normal.

    Is this normal? What can I do to fix this issue so brass isn't dented when ejected?

    Pressure signs on brass

    in Miscellaneous BEginners

    Posted

    I see a lot of posts and replies on these forums referring to pressure signs on brass.

    As someone soaking up as much info as i can on reloading - what do the pressure signs look like on brass?

    I plan on reloading major for 9mm out of a G17.

    Thank you in advance!

    Which Gen for an Open Glock?

    in Glock

    Posted · Edited by Fureio

    I ordered my open gun using a 4th gen G17 core.
    When it comes down to it, Both versions will work. If you want a Gen 3 style recoil spring and uncaptured guide rod, just get a reducer ring.

    http://www.glockworx.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=923132&CAT=3689

    With this ring you can use any Gen 3 uncaptured titanium guiderod and an ISMI spring of your choice. The factory spring is the most significant core upgrade to the Gen 4. If you want to go uncaptured and want the widest variety of aftermarket parts that have been tested with time: Gen 3.

    Few things to consider. Are you a lefty? Gen 4 for the ambidextrous mag release.

    Are you getting stippling? No? Gen 4 for the more aggressive factory stippling. Yes? Either will work.

    Some will tell you that the Gen 4 is unreliable because of an issue with the captured recoil spring back in 2011. That issue has since been resolved. Get the version that's available at your local small gun shop and at a price you feel is mutually fair.

    Edited: Grammar.

    KKM Match G34 Brass

    in Glock

    Posted

    Thats what the brass looked like out of my G21 (45 acp) when I last fired WWB. It's really dirty but no smoke cloud. I don't know if they moved to a new powder, WWB wasn't THIS dirty this when i shot it last year.

    Really weird problem with netbook

    in PC & Other

    Posted

    So if i understand you correctly - when you scroll your web browser - the center of the webpage stays put and the bottom of your display shows the web page scrolling?

    Have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling your display driver? Let me know if you still need help with this.

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