chopps
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Posts posted by chopps
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Best advise I can give is to just take out the flare and leave it. If it "plunks" into your barrel, it's perfect. If you want a number, I think I remember a .469 the last time I measured using starline brass and Hornady 230 FMJ RN.
That is what I remember .469
Thanks fellas.
Also my C.O.L. was going to be 1.250 in a colt commander +/- 10 thousands.
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Going to start loading .45 and I use a 0.377 for 9mm but wanted to get some feedback on a .45 ?
Thanks folks
I see alot of load info here but have not run across that yet. Other than 0.460 and just want to verify that.
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Just ordered 2k of these
BRY19324 BERRYS 9MM (.356) 124 GR RN-DS (1000)They also have 115 grain and others FYI
Just thought I would pass it on to the people who always help me with questions
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Yes, the underlined sentence is correct.
Thank you sir !!
PS
mcracco,
may have to get me one of those to Thanks to you also for the tip.
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The cases in your pic appear to have been reamed, not swaged. It could have been done with a case mouth chamfering tool, or a primer pocket reamer most commonly used on 223/5.56 military cases.
All you really need to do is remove the little lip that held the primer in place, it's not really necessary or desireable to reshape the whole primer pocket.
Thats what I had thought just the top where it would settle in place and the 650 pushs it up in tightly.
It was just odd he told me to run it in till it stops wherew then the primer falls in and out freely
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I've seen the effects of a overly swaged primer pocket.
Depending on the pressures of your rounds you're using (9 major in the instance I saw) the primer will fall out before or after you fire a round.I just shoot at the range and ocassionaly at the IDPA. If the recipe says 4.4 to 4.8 powder I generally settle in between at 4.6 to be safe on a 124 RN bullet with HP38.
Quick update,
I swaged a few with it and with only barely getting the die in the hole the primers sit on top of the rim nicely ( sits flay on the inner rim ) and seats well.
Now I was at the range today and talking with a guy there and he said " run the die all the way till it bottoms out and its done" well I did that on one brass casing and the primer was loose enough it would fall out. Funny thing is that this guy is real good at shooting and loading but this peice of advice was 100% wrong for my dillon 600.
Like I said when I just run the die in enough to spread it at the top the primer hole so it just barely sits in there
then the press seats as tight as it can be after swedgeing.
Does the above sentence in bold/underlined sound right to the rest of you loaders ?
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Those in the photo look like nothing those I have swaged with my 600. The 600 I have came with two swage rods, large and small. Use the small swage rod for 9mm, 223 and others using small primers.
You are not reshaping the primer pocket, only removing the crimp which is a very small ring at the open end of the primer pocket. Done properly you will not see a dramatic difference in the primer pocket.
That makes sense those I found on the range and I thought that they were way overboard. The way I am doing them is like you say very unnoticeable but the primer will just barely sit in the hole level ( upside down of corse just see how far in go's in ) and the 650 push's it in.
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I have alot of the WCC brass and going to send a bit of it off for swaging but wanted to play with some of it on my dillon 600.
When swaging are you just trying to get the primer to sit in the cup where it slides in or do you want it kinda a bigger radius ?
Some that I have that is already swaged ( range pick ups ) has a much bigger radius than what I have done that seems to sit in the cup and slde right in.
I am matching brass up so its the same that I am checking VS what I am doing.
Just seems to me the smaller the swage the better but I have no idea really.
Would be nice if some one could post a pic of a few unswaged and a few swaged beside each other for reference if possible.
Also in the dillon 600 kit kit there was 3 dies and I assume its the medium size one we use on 9mm ?
Thanks for any and all help from this group.
Does the below pic as far as amount of swage look right ?
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To bad yer not across the road I'd just trade ya for commerical, my 1050 doesn't care about crimps
Wonder what it would cost to swap you shipping wise.
Maybe I will check into it next week and see for shits and giggles
You must have read over the "across the road" part........... To old to go to all the bother to go to town to ship...............
Ok
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To bad yer not across the road I'd just trade ya for commerical, my 1050 doesn't care about crimps
Wonder what it would cost to swap you shipping wise.
Maybe I will check into it next week and see for shits and giggles
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I can run it through one of my 1050's for you. Figure it will take about 8 hours. 2 cents a case sounds about right, comes out to about $20 an hour. If you are interested PM me. Too bad you already deprimed it, we could have done it all at once and saved you some time.
I'll let you know thanks
PM sent
Thanks Sarge
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Will dig it up later tonight
Thanks Sarge !!
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Try TJ Conevera.....
Thanks Doug, I called them and they said there way to busy to take anything on like that. Thanks again for the tip.
Buy a 1050, reload all the brass, sell it for 80% of what it cost, and your are GTG.
To late for that now.
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why are you swaging all 9500 ??? Are all brass crimped? You do not need to swage if it is the most common brass like WIN, RP, PMC, etc...
Its all Military brass "Wcc" and out of 500 so far alot needed it plus hate wasting primers.
why are you swaging all 9500 ??? Are all brass crimped? You do not need to swage if it is the most common brass like WIN, RP, PMC, etc...
probably got some surplus 9mm military brass.
Yes sir I did and thought it was processed but It wasn't
I can hook you up with a forum member who did a bunch for me if you decide to go that route.
Yes Sarge, please share that info with me I have deprimed it all and not sure about how long it will take me to swage it
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Bought a dillon swager now I have to do 9500 rounds
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It would probably help if you location was noted maybe just maybe someone would lend you the tool.................
Ahh your quite right sir my bad.
I live in Atlanta,Georgia
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pockets swedged for a reasonable price ?
Got 9000 and don't want to buy the tool to do it but will if needed.
Thanks
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Is your FNH barrel marked “Invector”? If it is, these are the standard Win-Choke tubes. These tubes are the same as / interchangeable with the Mossberg Accu-choke tubes used in the 500/590/930
If your barrel uses “Invector Plus” tubes the bore diameter is larger (than the standard Invector bore) and those tubes are different (not interchangeable with standard Mossberg tubes)
Thanks
I have the 18 inch slp with standard invectors not plus. Just have a gunsmith here with the tools to thread winchester barrels and want to get my mossy 590 threaded with the same tubes as my FNH wich by what I see there the same as winchester threads.
Again thanks to all who helped me in this question
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winchester ones ?
Reason I ask is I am going to thread my mossberg and want to use the same ones.
Thanks
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Just ordered 3000 9mm FMJ from Precision Delta for 297.00
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Are you guys just replacing the seating dies? or the whole dillon set for the Lee's carbide dies?
I just replaced the seating die but bought the crimp die to so if I got a wild hair later I could replace it to. I like the adjustement knob on both whereas no tools needed to fine tune them. I bought mine direct from lee they have the seat die instock but not the others they said.
ebay has them at a good price for those interested.
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WST works very well with BayouBullets or Precision molly in 9 mm, with jacketed bullets 125gr it is a bit snappy. I have shot a lot of 125gr Zeros with WST, the oal and pay attention here was 1.145 and 4.6gr of WST with WinSPP. This will get you to 130-135pf depending on the speed of your barrel, don't push beyond this with this powder. Yes, that is a warning, at a shorter oal less powder!
Do yourself a favor and get some N320 it is the perfect choice for 9 mm 125gr Jacketed.
4.5 to 4.8gr of IMR7625 makes a nice shooting load as well.
What about IMR 4756 ?
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My Lee dies are old and yes the bullet seater adjustment is black plastic. My 9mm dies are 25 years or older and at that time the seater adjustment was black plastic. I can provide a picture for all non believers or young whipper snappers that are younger than these dies.
Heck I believe ya just never saw one is all.
I am a little more than twice as old as your dies
loading zero 147 gr jhp and looking for some info...
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
I have hp38, sr 4756 and was wondering if anyone here has a good conservative recipie and c.o.a.l for these powders ?
if not what are some suggestions I have heard longshot/ pistol powder of 4.4 grs and c.o.a.l of 1.120 but never used either of those.
Normaly I just do 124 gr with hp38, universal clays or titegroup but 147's are kinda new to me. Now I have loaded 147 truncated ones with 3.5 gr's of universal clays and had good luck but can't find universal clays right now.
Any help will be appreciated.