chopps
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Posts posted by chopps
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1 hour ago, TRUBL said:
Lee Factory crimp dies have always been your friend
I use the lee seat and crimp. So much easier to use and adjust.
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1 hour ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
I bet you'll find that the 0.377" is better than the 0.380".
Matter of fact, the 0.380" may not chamber.
Too much crimp - poor accuracy;
Too little crimp - FTF.
If you're not having any trouble at 0.377" (and I gather you're
not), I'd leave it alone.
BUT, be interested in your conclusion if you try it.
As everyone has mentioned, you really don't "crimp" a 9mm,
just remove the belling so it's straight. Neck tension holds
the bullet in place.
That's what I am trying to accomplish is to make it strait with no crimp. I'll also put my V3 magneto speed on it to check speeds for shits and giggles.
It will work/fit in my barrel and dillon chamber checker but sits a little high in my egw chamber checker.
Guess i'll find out in a week or so. I think one of my problems was my data was out dated and my oal was short by 0.25 thousands or more and to close to top of powder charge on this particular load and maybe that was part of my problem.
Been focused on rifle for a few years and neglected my pistol loads so basically F****d up all on my own. Bah perfect storm I created.
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I normally just try to experiment and find out myself but that does not always work so wanted to ask this time.
I'm loading a 9mm 147 Gr zero hp with 3.3 to 3.4 grains of Hodgdon universal clay's @ 1.100 oal and 0.377 and going to try 0.380.
Loaded up 16 and they all fit in barrel and dillon case gauge but sit up some in the EGW case gauge. I realize the EGW is tight and the dillon might have a little give so before I go out and test these kinda wanted some of you guys experience to see if I'm wasting my time. When I shoot rifle I see the difference with crimp and not sure that applies with pistols but what do it know.
TIA
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Primer stop switch.
Just ordered one and this I needed !!
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Talked to CCI tech department and they said there is no way to tell other than in the box they come in other than pulling the anvil out and measuring them that way.
No color difference in the foil under the anvil also they could be in a white, grey or black tray.
That's a hell of a way to do things IMO.
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blairmckenzie 1 , I am loading 223 , 69 grain HPBT with 24.5 grains of Varget. The box they were in said magnum in little red letters but other than that the box looked just like the 400's and now I need to buy more and not sure what the heck I had.
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Ok I have a question about something I commented on earlier can someone verify this,
CCI #400 Primers Vs CCI #450 Primers.
I may have got some miss labeled so here we go,
On CCI's website it says the #400's are yellow and the #450's are blue and are they refering to the color inside the primer ?
I had a box that was colored Blue and said small rifle primers "magnum" in little red letters but, when I deprimed one of the ones I loaded with them it was yellow inside so now I am not sure if the were really Magnums and just regular small rifle ones. Can someone who has both check out the 2 of them side by side please ?
Thanks -
Alliant AR-Comp powder is not the same as Hodgdon Varget, they aren't even made in the same country let alone the same manufacturer.
They are both extruded stick powders that work very well for .223/5.56 but can be a little difficult to meter.
I kinda figured that and thats why i asked here. Plus the load data on allient vs hodgdons was not the same so i knew something did not add up.
Thanks
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By the naked eye it looks the same ( other than a little shorter ) and have had a few tell me its the exact same powder but, wanted to ask here and see what experiance if any some of you have had with it.
TIA
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See, now that was pertinent information that SHOULD have been in the first post...
It's a bit like asking a mechanic why your car doesn't run, and having him go through all the things it could be, then telling him that the engine has a hole in the side where a connecting rod went through.
Thanks for the help.
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What powder are you loading? Are you with specs for that round?Doesn't look over pressure to me. Flatted primers would not have that bevel on the outside of the primer pocket.Each different manufacturer has different hardness of brass. Google the chart that's floating around the internet.I reload on a Dillon 550, doing each round individually so that I can feel the neck tension when seating the bullet. If loaded correctly, and not to maximum, the brass will last a long time. Case neck splitting from over working the brass is my signal to toss out the brass.Larger flash hole could cause initial overpressure, since it will ignite the powder intensely, working like a magnum primer.
Varget,
yes well within specs of the load per sierra, lyman and hodgdon.
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Ok,
it just looked to me that the 24.5 looked like they were flat or pancake and wanted to make sure was all.
Going to set my powder at 24.4 to account for 1/10 th of a grain varience when loading with my dillon 650.
I Don't mind loading each one and measuring it separately but sometimes just want to let the press do its thing.
Going to toss that brass as it was the 2nd load after factory and was resized a few times and experimented with.
Got some Remington brass I just shot and will do the final accuracy and pressure test with it on 69 & 77 grain.
Thanks to all for the info and answers.
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Yes i did them before i had a press probaby a year before hand. The 24.2 s look ok to me to but the ones i was really concerned about were the 24.2 to 24.5 ones.
Trust me i would never do the punch thing again and i did that a year prior just messing around thinking i would never use them but i figured they would be ok for a ladder test.
Now in hindsight i am not so sure.
I have some once shot remingtons now that i will redo the latter part of the test again from 24.0 to 24.5 just trying to maybe understand what happened is all.
Thanks
On a .223 got slightly enlarged would it flatten/pancake the cci primer like so ?
Reason i ask about the enlarged primer pockets is i punched these out before i got a press with a small pic/punch and on a few i had to work to get the punch out of the brass a little on some as it went to far in them unfortunately which now i know better to. Now i use my dillon press to get primers out.
Wait a second, you removed the primers by taking a punch through the case and hitting the primer out and the punch got stuck? If the punch got stock, I assume it was hanging up on the primer flash hole (not on the primer pocket) which would potentially enlarge the hole to some extent.
Honestly, the primers in your first picture don't even look flattened to me, nothing I would give a second look.
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Both days ammo was stored in basement nice and cool and maybe 10 to 15 degrees cooler today.
Reason i ask about the enlarged primer pockets is i punched these out before i got a press with a small pic/punch and on a few i had to work to get the punch out of the brass a little on some as it went to far in them unfortunately which now i know better to. Now i use my dillon press to get primers out.
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Oh this was the 2nd time the brass was loaded and it was shot out on a remmy 223 1x8 twist barrel. I shot the same plus higher loads a few days back and saw this on primers from 24.8 and up but none on 24.5 and below. Today i saw it on the pics and kinda baffles me now.
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On a .223 got slightly enlarged would it flatten/pancake the cci primer like so ?
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Any idea where to get some at all the same headstamp at a reasonable price ?
Thanks
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This helps get it to within one thousands
I think Uniquetek would dispute that endorsement.
Do powders like Varget meter better through a standard drum style powder measure or the Dillon slide style?
Well before i started use it i was 2 maybe 3 tenths off and since i have been using it i am about 1 maybe 2 tenths off now so thats what i see.
Now maybe it was something else before i started using it but its alot closer now.
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This helps get it to within one thousands,
http://www.uniquetek.com/site/696296/product/T1231
edit: This helps "me" get it to within one thousands or very close.
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What bullet, primer, and brass are you planning to load?
69 gr sierra matchking, cci small rifle primers, once shot black hills ammo by me and varget powder.
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It really depends on what you're trying to accomplish.
Re: Pretty accurate gun for the range not perfection but acceptable.
I go through some pretty rigorous load development for my bolt rifles. It pays off in the end, but how much gain for the additional development is the question.
Re: i shoot paper at 100 yards and below and steel at 300 thats all my range offers.
I have the time, so it's worth it to me. What are you trying to accomplish here?
Re: Some good skills so i can build on them when i go to range is about it.
I have a sierra load manual and going to use there load data to start with because they tested with 1/8 twist , same length barrel as i have and varget which is what i am using.
Figured it was a good point to start with so far.
If you answer those questions, I can help you develop a plan.
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I am using the wft trimmer on a drill. Its pretty close when it trims i just gave up on exactly 1.750 and settled with 1.752 because i could not hit it just right always more above or below and just settled.
The big varience is on one shot brass after its been sized not trimmed yet.
A remmy .223 bolt gun.
Is really something to try to achieve or just move on and do what sierra or hogdgon says in the reload data ?
Without measuring your chamber, I don't know definitively, but I could almost guarantee you 1.752" is fine. How are you trimming? That's fairly inconsistent.
What kind of gun are you shooting? That will dictate what kind of jump you can have and/or want. If you're shooting a bolt rifle, then you may be able to get away with it. If you're shooting an AR, you will not likely be able to get anywhere near the lands before hitting max magazine length.
That is NOT how you measure the lands. Buy one of each of these items:
http://www.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-OAL-Gauge-Curved-1-Each/
http://www.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-Load-223-Rem-Modified-Case-1-Each/
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23.3-26.1 according to Sierra
Totally my bad/error I should have said bolt gun and not left it open to interpetation of what kind of .223 Sorry.
Sierra has diffirent data for a bolt gun I found.
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Ok,
I have been trimming my brass but hard to get exactly 1.750 I seem to get 1.752 ( on 1 time shot brass afer sizing and trimming ) alot and "assume" that will be fine if most here agree ?
Also I get some that are 1.748 to 1.750 ( without trimming after being shot ) and again "assume" its fine to load as is, is that right or toss them away like the ones at 1.745 and lower ? Now If I keep them & load them check them after being shot twice and trim if needed of corse which will be a pain in the rump of corse LOL
2nd question
Alot of people ( hunters mostly ) have told me to get the bullet close as I can to the land (I thinks its spelled ) and measured mine and its 2.286 total length of bullet right as it stops in barrel so, question is when I am loading my .223 it says COAL 2.235 which is about .50 thousands short is that something I should try to fix by increasing the COAL and increasing powder by maybe a 10th of a grain per .10 thousands or am I trying to split hairs and wasting my time ?
Measured my land by leaving a bullet way out of the brass and cycling it a few times to see where the length was in the end.
Thanks for all the help in th eprior post about powder loads to group.
Anyone experimented with the crimp tightness on a 9mm
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
Thank you
Now I can be exact