Overscore
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Posts posted by Overscore
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You can ELIMINATE that spent primer bin altogether in about 3 minutes.
Take a .44 SPL or MAG shell, drill out the primer hole to the ID of the shell (or close to it), then loosen the bracket that holds the bin. Slip the .44 shell under the bracket, and tighten it back up. Apply some 3/8" clear vinyl hose and a bucket underneath and you're done. Put your spent primer bin on the shelf.
Yes, at some point I'll probably wind up doing this, but the issue remains that the requirement for such a solution is kinda ridiculous. It's not as though Dillon is unaware of this issue.
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How are people spilling primers all over the place with their 650's???
When I load, I do one hundred rounds at a time and run the press til it runs out of primers.
When the primer tube is filled up again, I put a bigger L shaped allen wrench in the bottom of the casefeeder "gate". Then I cycle the handle 7 or 8 times, until I see the first primer start to come around inside the primer disc/wheel/carousel. Then I remove the allen wrench, so the cases can start dropping again. VOILA! no UNused primers dropping out of the carousel and sliding down the "ski jump".
I meant the spent primers. They fly all over the place with the factory design. I built a lip around my spent primer cup with electrical tape, and it's fine, but it makes me wonder why Dillon doesn't just update that little bin to be a bit taller.
The unused primer ski jump is also a pretty faulty design, IMO, but it's rare that I have occasion for a primer to go unused, so I guess it doesn't get my goat as much.
That is an interesting thing, deliberately running out of primers. I load 100 primers into the machine and then fill up 10 primer tubes so that I can load 1100 rounds without having to play yard-chicken with the primers for an entire loading session.
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I also don't particularly care for the combination of powder and belling. I decap and resize all my brass as a separate process, so that does mean that I could separate belling and powder, but I suppose it hasn't gotten my goat enough yet for me to actually make this change.
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These are good things to hear. I don't want to feel any sense of buyer's remorse here, so hearing about Hornady's own little annoyances somehow makes me feel better.
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It's an interesting variety that exists in this shooting world. I'm currently in the mode of being accurate enough to hit reasonably sized targets while on the clock, while also being able to shoot and load as much as possible while still being a good husband and father to two kids. There is this whole other world out there of that slow fire with goals of accuracy, where people can start to see the differences among powders and primers. That is years away for me! When my kids are grown and I am able to live at a more reasonable pace, this is definitely where I'll be, and I look forward to that. Until then, my favorite primers are the cheapest ones and my favorite powder is the in-stock one!
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Best advise I have.
I love it.
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When I decided to get into reloading, which isn't really all that long ago, one of the obvious decisions to make was which press. A variety of factors lead me to a choice between the 650 and Hornady Lock n Load. My primary shooting friend has the Hornady, so that was my deciding factor to go with Dillon, the logic being that we both get to become familiar with both while paying only the price for one.
What I've come to suspect is that Hornady deliberately designed their LnL press in response to the pros and cons of the 650, which is a wise move on their part if so. Here are my observations that make me think this.
- People complain about the 650 spewing spent primers all over the place (which is absolutely ridiculous, quite frankly), so they went with the "community" fix for their design.
- Dillon has that index-no-matter-what design for their primers, where as Hornady figured a way to only feed the next primer if something took the current one away. This is a far better experience.
- Those little locator buttons are not the world's favorite design, so Hornady went with the springs.
- The removable tool head concept on the Dillon is nice, but it's also pricey, and the solution of those tool head stands seems like a half-implemented afterthought. Hornady went with their lock and load design to achieve a similar level of flexibility with much less cost and with a more manageable set of implements to store.
- The square tubing for the case feeder is a superior design to the round tube with yet another set screw.
- The half-step indexing allows for smoother operation, meaning not having powder fly out all over the place (which is also absolutely ridiculous).
- Also, the no-BS warranty is pretty much across all brands now.
I'm sure that if I used the LnL for a year, I'd discover its comparable list of quirks, because everything is going to have it. But, from what I currently know, the LnL seems to be like a 650 with the design flaws fixed. This is why I'd like to see Dillon respond with a new design and let them have the better mid-price progressive press that fixes the flaws in the Hornady for a while.
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Thanks all. I'm using 55 grain bullets, and I loaded them to 25 grains, which filled the case up quite a bit. This rifle loading is such a different world from sitting down and cranking out a thousand 9mm as an evening task.
I have just a one pound can of Varget, so it won't last long. After that, I have 8 pounds of N335. Perhaps that will be more Dillon-friendly.
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I've loaded nothing but 9mm on my 650 since I got it about a year ago. Now I finally have everything I need for .223, and I will load my first rounds today. Or, I should say that I THINK I have everything I need.
For the powder, I'm using Varget and following their specs, which is 27.5gr if I remember right. (I will verify this before loading!) IIRC, there are two different powder bars that one can put in the powder feed assembly. For this volume, do I use the larger one? I got the "deluxe" quick change kit, so however I setup this powder dispenser is how it will remain, permanently dedicated to .223 loading.
Thanks
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Whoa, I wish I had paid more attention and realized that the Tula primers were in stock and so much cheaper. Thank you Steve.
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Use Tula primers, save money.
Yes, I don't understand why people prefer certain brands of primers. Of course, I don't do any long range precision shooting, and focus more on the IDPA and 2-gun world, so as long as the primer ignites the powder, I don't care where it came from.
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$39.99 was the going price at Cabelas in Hamburg, PA for 1,000 CCI 400 small rifle primers just a few weeks ago. You can get them cheaper online, but then there's the hazmat charge. I'll typically order 10,000 at a time and split the order and hazmat with a friend. It would currently cost $31.50 per 1,000 to have 10,000 shipped from Midway with the $27.50 (IIRC) hazmat charge.
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I miss the Grinder Mill in Silver City, NM.
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Here is something that I've come to hate, or at least dislike, and that is the other shooting forums that exist. Without naming names, there are two others that I use, one which is local to my state, and another that is universal. I've come to realize that the difference between those forums and this one is that the people here are into SHOOTING. The stereotypical person on the other forums is more into having guns and being "tacticool." It is very similar to the people who buy Jeeps and then just put a bunch of aftermarket stuff on them to make them "cool" vs. the people who buy them and then go out driving in the Pine Barrens every weekend and upgrade things for functional purposes.
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I can definitely see how it happened. I often tighten the shell plate bolt down until there is resistance in indexing, and then back it off. Of course, each time I do that, I'm probably weakening the indexer. Maybe I should subscribe to monthly deliveries of them.
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Hey, thanks for that reply, Brian. I'm on hold with Dillon now.
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I have never purchased any brass, and hope that I never have to. Generally, I load ammo for two purposes, practice and matches. So, if I get the occasional round that doesn't chamber or fire during practice, I'll take that as the downside to the benefit of being able to mass produce my ammo faster. For match ammo, it all gets individual attention, and for 9mm, gets the fancy copper jacketed bullets, as opposed to the cheapest possible lead that I can find.
So would I be correct in saying that you're buying and firing new ammo and keeping the cases? Or?
Dog
No, all range brass.
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I have never purchased any brass, and hope that I never have to. Generally, I load ammo for two purposes, practice and matches. So, if I get the occasional round that doesn't chamber or fire during practice, I'll take that as the downside to the benefit of being able to mass produce my ammo faster. For match ammo, it all gets individual attention, and for 9mm, gets the fancy copper jacketed bullets, as opposed to the cheapest possible lead that I can find.
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Found the culprit. I am very glad that I ordered the spare parts kit when I got my press!
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Look at the steel part that the primer anvil sets on (below the ram on the right side of the machine) and check for a primer or other crap in the pocket it forms with the casting.
If there is nothing there can you measure the stroke you get from a reference point on the ram to a reference point at the top of the machine? Photos might also help for comparison to others when you do this.
Thanks. I think I'll just take the entire primer system off and see if that changes anything. I hadn't thought of any possible primer assembly causes.
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Thanks Sarge. No, I didn't clip the spring and am looking to avoid that route for some irrational reasons that I don't know. And no, nothing under the shell plate.
I think I need to just take everything apart and clean and inspect everything to make sure there isn't some tiny "hangnail" I'm not seeing. I tend to use my press in modes, one of which being decapping mode, which I just went through. I decapped about 5,000 9mm, which of course means that approximately 2500 spent primers shot anywhere BUT the spent primer cup. For all I know there is a spent primer wedged somewhere.
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All,
There have been many threads about the indexing on the 650, the jarring that causes powder to jump, thrust bearing upgrades, cutting springs, etc., etc. My latest problem is somehow related to one or more of these things. The thing refuses to consistently put the ball under the shell plate into the detent without my having to jiggle the handle or nudge the shell plate manually.
I've tried various tightnesses on the shell plate bolt, which didn't seem to have any effect. I tried the thrust bearing upgrade, which also had no effect. I also switched to a different shell plate, and this also didn't have any effect. The little hammer shaped piece that pushes the shell plate in its rotation does not look irregular in any way. I've also tried greasing the underside of the shell plate as well as the ball on the spring under it.
Does anyone have any other suggestions of things to try? It's quite hard to load in quantity without being able to get into any sort of dependable groove.
Thanks
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It's sort of like your own personal slot machine, but instead of quarters you get a bullet everytime you pull the handle.
I love this.
My 1050 mods
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Wow, that is nuts!