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FWSixgunner

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Posts posted by FWSixgunner

  1. I recently picked up a 3" 64-3 that I plan to run as a BUG.

    Only problem is my old eyes don't pick up that stainless ramp blade real well.

    I've replaced FS blades on adjustable-sighted Smiths before, but never a fixed sight gun, so I'm wondering what options may be out there for a higher-visibility blade. The sight is pinned through the rib, so it should be a breeze for a competent smith to replace.

    I'd like a post/bead blade, a bit thinner than the factory ramp to give more light.

    Suggestions?

    Thanks!

  2. The heartache and expense of flushing poor quality parts out of cheap guns is not worth the savings on price of purchase. I'd highly recommend saving a bit longer. The sport is expensive, and going home after the second stage of a match because your gun doesn't run is a huge waste of money. I am not saying you need to buy a Les Baer, but I would consider the RO or similar the bare minimum to start the sport. Your consumables will quickly eclipse the purchase price of the gun. A Spartan (which is similar to the RIA, but with better internals) or an RO would be great choices, and both companies stand behind their guns.

    If you get the CZ75B and go the production route, you will likely get tired of people telling you that you should have bought an SP01 Shadow.

    If you want a Spartan, better buy one soon. I heard STI is discontinuing it.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. Oh that makes sense in a twisted American business way

    Don't blame us Yanks! It was the British

    holding company Tomkins that owned S&W and cut the deal with the Clinton Administration (that's not political comment but fact.) and nearly destroyed the company. The stock dropped like a ton of bricks due to consumer backlash. That's what allowed Saf T Hammer to buy it for around 10% of it's pre-political-deal value.

    It had nothing to do with being in Massachusetts.

    When Lear-Siegler sold to Tomkins in the late 80s,, they became the third in a series of holding companies that knew nothing about the firearms industry. Ruger made a bid at that time as well.

    I was not aware Saf T had sold the company and mandated continued use of the locks. The continued inclusion of the locks makes much more sense now. I had always assumed the stock holders were afraid due to the negative publicity.

    I saw a comment about a 12.5 lb trigger. First, that's not bad for a stock out of the box revolver if it's smooth & doesn't stack. The Bangor Punta guns of 70s were much worse, IMO. The MIM parts are much more consistent. than those "hand fitted" parts the purists pine away for. A lot of hand fitting is code for loose manufacturing tolerances.

    Second, there probably is no production DA that will have a satisfactory trigger out of the box. They pretty much all need some tuning,

  4. Then, range buddy Mike, a near-GM in Limited, went all Ruger and is wearing me down further. At this very moment, he's skulking about the Cheeseland forests with a GP100 looking for a venison-chili provisioner. With some staggering handloads in the thing. Want to say 300gr somethings hauling along at 1400fps.

    300-grain @1400 from a .357? You'd better find a new range buddy.

  5. I have been able to buy pretty much every type of powder I have wanted in the past six months (load 9mm, .223/5.56 and 300BLK) either on-line or at local gun shops. I have purchased these:

    • Vihtavuori N320
    • Hodgon Titegroup
    • Alliant E3
    • Hodgon Clays
    • Accurate Arms #2 (although haven't seen any recently)
    • Accurate Arms #5 (although haven't seen any recently)
    • Accurate Arms #7 (although haven't seen any recently)
    • Winchester 231
    • Reloader 15
    • Accurate 2230 (although haven't seen any recently)
    • IMR XBR8208
    • Vihtavuori N133
    • Vihtavuori N135
    • Accurate TAC (although haven't seen any recently)
    • Accurate 1680 (although haven't seen any recently)
    • Hodgon 110
    I regularly see these locally (even in the past week) although I don't use them:
    • WST
    • WSF
    • IMR PB
    • Winchester 296
    • Winchester 748
    • All sorts of Alliant (1 and 8 pounders) showed up recently.
    • All sorts of IMR powders (mostly 1 pounders)
    And a whole bunch I am forgetting.

    You didn't happen to find the Clays online, did you? If so, WHERE???

  6. You can lock the wrists somewhat by tensing your forearms. This naturally tenses the hands somewhat since the forearm muscles controls the hands.

    That plus a tight grip locks the wrists as much as they can be locked.

  7. I dry fire my DA revolvers one-handed against a white background. No aim point, just practicing trigger control, but it's easy to call shots against the white background.

    I fully cycle the cylinder 10 times, swapping hands between each for a total of 120 (6-shot revolver)

  8. There is always NRA Bullseye if everything else fails. Won't do anything for speed or movement, but, toughest accuracy test. Then there is also IHMSA - long range accuracy test - although I'm not sure where any matches are now being held close to Dallas area.

    Arg, Bullseye! I'd have to blow about $3000 on 3 new guns to watch paint dry!!!

    I used to shoot NRA "hunters" pistol silhouette and small bore rife. I never saw anything resembling a real "hunters" pistol. On the line:-). I've done plenty of long range pistol shooting, and laying back in that Creedmore position looks, well, like seething they wouldn't have allowed on TV back I'm the 50s:-). But like you said, no IHMSA around here.

    DA shooting is what does it for me these days.

  9. FWSixgunner, what setup are you using for SSR?

    You mentioned no full bore race revolvers, does that mean you are wiling to buy another gun or just use what you have?

    Yes I'm willing to upgrade to say, a performance center gun, not much over $1000. Moon clips look very attractive.

    I am currently running an M-66,Safariland 568 holster and Comp III SLs.

    BTW, other guns include a 6" 66-3 and a 4" 24-3 (.44 spl)

  10. I just started IDPA SSR and am already disillusioned. I guess it's better than nothing , but I don't carry, I'm just lookin for a fun revolver competition. I picked IDPA SSR because it didn't require a new gun. But the whole concealed carry thing puts kind of a damper on it for me.

    So, what else is there; USPA? Steel Challenge (sounds fun but I'd definitely be a one-gun shooter.). ICORE, though I can't find a match anywhere the DFW area. Same with bowling pin.

    What would equipment needs be? No full-bore race guns, but a 6xx PC revolver would be fine.

  11. The S&W 627 ( 8 shot 38 ) is new hotness for USPSA. As for cheaper, there will probably be some good deals on used 625s in the near future.

    Are you saying folks will be dumping their 625s to buy 627s, 929s, etc?

    If so, sounds like time for me to break open the piggy bank.

  12. I actually own a Herters .401 Powermag. It's a strong and quite accurate gun, but I don't believe it could be converted to .41 Magnum without replacing (or reboring) the barrel, which would be cost-prohibitive. The .401 Powermag uses .40/10mm bullets, which are obviously smaller in diameter than the .410 bullets used for .41 Magnum. So even if you managed to ream the cylinder to accept .41 Magnum ammo, I really don't think you would want to be shooting .410 bullets down a .401 bore.

    FWSixgunner, what you may be remembering is that you can make .401 Powermag ammo out of resized .41 brass. My .401 Powermag ammo is made with resized .41 Mag brass, handloaded on a Dillon 550 using a .41 Mag shellplate and .40/10mm dies.

    Thanks for the info. Yeah, that was decades ago. I only recalled the .41 mag came into play somewhere.

    What'd they do for bullets before the 10mm? 38/40?

  13. I made it twice in the past

    twice very strong alergic reaction at the wood or wood conservant

    (grade fever and rash, intravenous corticosteroids and calcium)

    attachicon.gifgrip_trim2.jpg

    for the future I will use

    https://www.cromwell.co.uk/images/product/TFF/962/TFF9623831B_0.jpg

    Tropical hardwoods and especially anything in the rosewood family (which includes coco bolo and ebony) are notorious for causing allergic reactions. They're loaded with oils & silica.

    Gimme good ol domestic hardwoods any day!

  14. What would a person use to work on the hogue rubber grips? I need to take off very little material where my strong hand thumb knuckle sits. I dunno how to get the rubber smooth after cutting a smidgen away.[/quote

    Pretty much anything that will remove wood. I dunno about smoothing rubber, maybe just progressively finer sandpaper to 600 grit silicone carbide.

    I used a bench grinder 36 grit wheel to reshape some UMs (Uncle Mikes, or as I like to call them, Ugly Mothers). That was some bulk rubber removal that started with a utility knife. They've been replaced with Hogue JMs. I don't do rubber anymore.

  15. I'm having trouble getting the palm of my shooting hand in contact with the grip when drawing. I end up gripping with just the fingers & heel of the hand.

    Grips don't matter. I'm currently running Hogue JMs on my M66.

    My draw technique is to start with the thumb & web of the hand over the top strap (high grip) to get my hand oriented on the grip, then roll the rest of the hand over the grip.

    Should I just draw then set the grip when my hands meet?

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