djcantr
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Posts posted by djcantr
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If you want a 13# hammer spring, go to Wolff Springs' website and order the 13# hammer spring for the Beretta 92, it's the same spring. Although I like a fast hammer, so I use an 18# spring; a light hammer spring is a good way to lighten a DA pull, but on SAO, a race hammer and polished internals is the trick. My trigger is 1# 10oz with the 18# spring; sure I can get it lighter with a lighter spring, but it feels sluggish/mushy.
The fixed rear makes an awesome slide racker, so if you change yours out I WANT IT!
#14 recoil spring is just right for me, the 11# worked fine in practice, but the shit the bed in an outdoor match, so I don't risk it.
I tried the Sprinco and didn't like it, but to each is his own.
Congrats on the TS, enjoy.
I've been using the rear sight as a slide racker. I like that function of it so I doubt I'll be changing it out.
What hammer do you suggest? My trigger pull is the same as yours at 1 lb 10 oz. I have it adjusted down so the total movement of the trigger is just .15" with reliable function. What can a different hammer do for me?
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Well lets begin
The TS comes with wooden cheecks, iron black front sight, plastic magwell.
What you can do is:
front sight . Oh yeah and put the green fiber optic- the green fiber looks very good on red popper.
http://czcustom.com/...FibreRod-2.aspx
* Don't chaneg the rear sight- the popper will be identical in the view
*the chekers are different and you should choose them wisely
http://czcustom.com/...ve-checker.aspx
http://czcustom.com/...tic-Rubber.aspx
* magwell- you will have to cut the grips acordign to magwell
http://czcustom.com/...gwelllarge.aspx
* get a mainsprign from CGW
http://www.cajungunw...pring_kits.html
HS-12000 - CGW's custom wound 11.5# hammer spring, recommended only for use with extended firing pins. NOTE: Not recommended for use with the OEM firing pin spring, see RP-FPS, CGW's matching reduced power firing pin spring
* get a long firing pin
http://czcustom.com/...dfiringpin.aspx
* sport hammer- will change the triger geometry, if you have small hands- the trigger will be closer ( you will have to adjust the screw in the trigger )
http://czcustom.com/...er-TS-IPSC.aspx
you can also put flat trigger - this is your own prefferences
http://czcustom.com/...roduct-132.aspx
a large safety- the large pedal is awsome - it will prevent your hand beeing cut from factory safety
http://czcustom.com/...isafetylhs.aspx
if you want that recoil soft- get a sprinco buffer/shock reducer
http://www.sprinco.com/recoil.html
19056 CZ-75 Standard IPSC - Tactical/Sports .40 S&W only (Use with Factory or Buffer Tech Polymer Buffer) (Not available for 9mm models)
and yes - the slide stops are breaking ( with factory ammo) after ~ 6K shots. I use sprinco recoil reducer and 17 pound recoil springs
Thank you for the suggestions. So far, I've installed a stainless guide rod, 14# recoil spring, 11.5# mainspring and extended firing pin. I have 12#, 13#, 14# and 15# recoil springs. Haven't done any testing with them, just put in the 14#. I will probably add the fiber optic front sight you suggested as well as the oversized safety. How much modification does that magwell need to fit in the box for LImited with the factory rear sight? While I'm only shooting in local matches that don't check pistols in a box, I'd like to remain legal for my own mind. We talking just a little bit of filing on the bottom of it? A couple hundredths or more like 1/8"?
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I have some Bear Creek bullets that should be here in the next day or two. Ordered last week.
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Does that case look consistent with one that had a normal case head separation or one that was fired out of battery? It sure looks like the case is blown and bulged pretty far down the case towards the mouth. I'm not experienced in this, just thought a case head separation wouldn't go that far down the case.
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Ditch the pro 1000. I started on it because my father had been given one as a gift , then gave it to me. I loaded for .45 and was getting squibs left and right. It was dropping low charges every 4th or 5th round. I would get rid of that pro 1000 in a hot minute and get nearly anything else. Most people here will say dillon , that's what i have . but the rcbs, or hornady are much better products then the pro 1000.
Mine needed a little clearancing on the arm that the chain attaches to that pulls back the charge disk. I no longer have the problem you described but still look into each case to look for no, low or double charges. They can be a little finicky but with some tuning they work. Still going to upgrade to a Dillon down the road, though.
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Tuning CZ mags
in CZ
I've now shot about 500 rounds or so through these four mags. No failures to feed, so I'm not really concerned about the feed lips.
I had tried putting 21 in all of the mags and seating them on a closed slide. I could do it, but it required a very hard push and then the mag release was very hard to push in to release the mag. They were so close... I decided to do a little tweaking. I measured the depth of the mags and they ranged from 1.2725 to 1.275 down the length of the mags. I carefully squeezed them a little, measured, tried them, squeezed a little more, measured, tried them until I could seat them with 21 rounds and a normal tap with the palm of my hand to seat the mags. I ended up with them measuring 1.268 to 1.271 down the length of the mag. It was a miniscule change, but made seating the mags much easier. I did have to squeeze back down the width of the mag just in the mag catch slot area a tiny bit. Mags drop free perfectly.
Safety note: I wasn't chambering ammo during these tests but I did remove the firing pin from the pistol while I was checking the seating of mags that contained live ammo.
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I had previously loaded 180 gr Montana Gold JHPs with TiteGroup to major in my G35. Now that I'm no longer shooting a polygonal rifled barrel I'm going to try some Bear Creek moly coated lead bullets.
Pistol is a CZ Tactical Sport. I didn't check to see how long I could load in the chamber because it seems the length is restricted by the magazines. My 1.135" OAL loads now feed perfect but doesn't look like I could go much longer in the mags. I currently just have HP-38, Bullseye and TiteGroup on hand. I'd prefer working up a load with TiteGroup as I have the most of it.
Do you guys have any recipes for a 1.135" OAL major load with 180 grain Bear Creeks loaded with those powders?
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When u make up some dummy rounds, mark them in a way that you will never mistake them. And always keep them separate from any other ammmo. I'm sure you do this. It's in case someone reads this. Lol
Calling shots, if you have a place you can shoot. Set up a small 6 to 8 round stage. Nothing crazy. just where you have to move to ingage each target. Then shoot it. ULASC, then think of where your sights were when the shots broke on each target and see if you can recall your shots. The more specific you can recall your shots the better the shot calling. I do this once in a while when I get sloppy. I should do it everyday? Lol. Good shooting!
Good point on the dummy rounds. Any time I'm using dummy rounds (previously has just been shotgun) I make sure there is no other ammunition in the room. I'm sure someone, somewhere has had an AD in their living room when they were practicing with dummy rounds and a live round got mixed in.
I'll try your tips on shot calling. I've made up some portable PVC target stands. Closest range is an hour away but my gf's mom has a small amount of land I can setup temporary targets on and shoot. I need to order some cardboard targets and then I'll be set. I honestly think I need to work on my draw and get it nailed down before I practice much more on live fire. Don't want to drill any more bad habits into my head.
I shot Steel Challenge today. Scores aren't up yet but I think I did fairly well. I'm honestly not sure how I hit half of the plates. I just followed the front sight until I got up on the plate and squeezed the trigger. Thought for sure I was running too fast to hit most of them but kept hearing the steel ring so I kept pressing on. Once I figured out that I needed to ignore the sights on the large plates on the Smoke and Hope stage and just point and shoot I squeezed out a 3.4x string and a 3.20 string with my CZ TS and major PF .40 S&W. Felt pretty good about the improvement and some good trigger time.
What about my movement in the video? When I don't have to plant my feet I like to keep moving but I'm not really conscious about exactly what my feet are doing. Is that something I should work on refining later once I get the basics down?
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He didn't intend to hose you but he did. That is where you have to take it back and get things right in your head. "resetting" by taking a grip and clearing things in your head will help.
Make sure that you are practicing correctly. Get Steve Anderson's first book and Seeklanders video's. There is not much worse then practicing incorrectly.
Your tip for doing a reverse draw of sorts after making ready is a good one. I'll try that and keep my hand on my pistol longer as you suggested. The RO certainly wasn't trying to throw me off there. He's a real nice guy. Looking back, though, it did get in my mind. After he asked me if I was shooting production my mind instantly started thinking about how I couldn't possibly be shooting production with a SAO pistol and mags loaded to 20 rounds. It distracted me from thinking about the stage.
I ordered Steve Anderson's books last week due to recommendations I kept reading here. Should be here this week and then I'll get busy reading. I'll have to check out Seeklander's videos. Thanks.
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1st stage. Get the non shooting stuff done quicker, i.e. non-shooting movement and your reload. On the last array, it looks to me like you could have set up a little more to the right and backed out a bit from the barriers and shot that whole thing in one place instead of doing the little steps that you did. Nailing the reload quickly on your first step would help this.
Your draw needs more work, on the second stage, you missed your weak hand grip. You will be able to take care of this in DF.
One trick is to holster your pistol after "make ready" and leave your hand on the grip, having a full and perfect grip, just like you would do if you were doing the worlds most perfect draw. At the same time put your weak hand where it meets up with your pistol before you push out. For me it is toward the gun, just off my mid-line, touching my belly. Basically, do the reverse of a draw after "make ready".
On the second stage the RO kinda hosed you on the start, asking you all of that. You don't need that in your head, especially the long time just standing there without marking your pistol with your strong hand. If that happens again, where he says something, just put your hand on your grip again and reset yourself. On the 3rd stage, your hands were dangling there for quite awhile before you got the commands.
I leave my hand on the grip for a little while, letting my body know what a perfect draw feels like, then I assume the starting position. Time enough where the RO is usually waiting on me, wondering if I am going to assume the position or not and wants to "get things going". He will give you the "are you ready" pretty quick after that. I try to stay away from just posing there forever waiting for the RO to do his thing. You were waiting there for quite a bit at one point, with your hand off your gun for a long time. It is like standing at the plate holding the bat up forever while the pitcher goes through the signs, waves them off, goes through some more signs, checks the runner, etc., etc., all the while you are there holding the bat up in the air. Sometimes you need to control the situation a little bit, instead of calling a time out, you are just kinda taking over the timing, making sure the RO starts you promptly, as soon as possible after you assume the position.
The reload you pointed out could have been a lot better. I might make up some dummy rounds with no charge or primer to load in mags to make the weight realistic and practice my reloads in my living room. You're right that I could have not gone as forward in the last array in that stage and not had to back up for that last target. I was a little over zealous in moving up there quickly and went too far. Didn't realize that mistake until you pointed it out.
Working on my draw is a good point. I just got this pistol on Friday and was working on drawing Friday night. I watch a Bob Vogel video linked to in another thread here and saw where he brings his weak hand up and puts his index finger under the trigger guard and then rolls that hand into place. I practiced that a bit. In the second stage I wasn't thinking to try to do that, but that's what I think I did and was very, very slow at it and didn't roll the hand much. I'll be working on my draw a lot. Might get a lot of living room holster wear on this pistol pretty quick.
Your tip for doing a reverse draw of sorts after making ready is a good one. I'll try that and keep my hand on my pistol longer as you suggested. The RO certainly wasn't trying to throw me off there. He's a real nice guy. Looking back, though, it did get in my mind. After he asked me if I was shooting production my mind instantly started thinking about how I couldn't possibly be shooting production with a SAO pistol and mags loaded to 20 rounds. It distracted me from thinking about the stage.
Thanks for the awesome tips, guys! Great stuff for me to work on. I really appreciate it.
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For calling shots, just shoot and watch your front sight. Shoot into the berm at nothing. Focus on what the front sight is doing. Is it going straight up them straight back into the rear notch? Im sure others will have things to add. But when you call your shots for me it was like someone turned on a switch. Cool stuff.
How are your hits? You looked quick, almost out of control, almost but not.
If that's your sixth match, you are doing well. There is alot to learn. Dryfire & Good shooting!!
Thanks for the tip on calling shots. I'll try it. I also think once I can really nail a consistent grip then the pistol will recoil consistently and I'll be able to call them better. My grip sucks now so each time I grip it, it recoils differently. I might change out the front sight to a fiber optic to help me see the front sight and track it better as well.
My hits were ok in those stages, except for that stage I ran 9 seconds through the ports. I had just made up my mind I was going to push myself fast and I went too far. Below are the stats for the stages on video, in order of appearance in the video:
Class Division Points Penalties Time Hit Factor Stage Pts Stage %
U Limited 99 0 14.62 6.7715 74.8247 68.02%
U Limited 58 0 17.63 3.2898 51.3550 85.59%
U Limited 67 20 9.20 5.1087 43.0029 43.00%
First stage had 110 possible points. Second stage 60 possible points. Third stage 100 possible points. Can't believe I shot 85% on the second stage. I felt so slow. The third stage really killed me. I think if I would have ran it in 11 seconds I could have shot around 95 points and done much, much better. Lesson learned.
Thank you for the input.
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This was my sixth USPSA match. I was shooting a G35 but picked up a CZ Tactical Sport yesterday and the trigger is lighter and shorter than I'm used to. You'll see the surprise shot in the third stage of the video. Seven stages today but I only got three on video.
First stage was probably my best mix of speed and accuracy. I made makeup shots on two targets I didn't need to. I need to work on calling my shots.
Second stage was where you had to engage the three different types of targets each from a different box. Had a few misses on the plates/poppers.
Third stage I just tried to run too fast for my skills. The third target I shot at was higher than the middle target and I missed it. Really, at three yards I missed it. I was already thinking about the next targets and failed to dip back down to raise the POA through the port and missed. The next shot was a surprise shot as I went beyond taking up the slack as I was used to shooting my G35.
Critique me. I know I need to work on my splits and calling my shots. What other specific things do I need to work on to improve?
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Horrible shooting, but just got my Tactical Sport in my hands today. Setup a 6" swinging plate about 12-15 yards away and went at it.
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Tuning CZ mags
in CZ
Thank you guys for the input. What about the feed lips? The mags don't all have the same measurement and a couple vary from front to back between the feed lips. What width should I tweak them to?
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Tuning CZ mags
in CZ
I searched and didn't find any information on tuning CZ mags. I did, however, find a good thread on tuning STI mags. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=141880 I have a new CZ Tactical Sport on the way that will be here Friday. Have everything ready to go, including some mags with CZ Custom extended base pads and Grams followers and springs. I wouldn't do any tuning until I test it out first, but want to know where to start if I need to.
I have a few questions:
Do CZ mags generally require tuning, specifically CZ Tactical Sport mags?
In the thread I linked, the OP stated he likes to set the feed lip spread to .388 +-.004. Should that same spec be used for CZ mags? Two of my mags measure .380 and .382 evenly across the depth of the feed lips. Another mag .379 at the front and .383 at the back. Fourth mag .379 at the front and .384 at the back.
I can get 20 rounds in these mags very easily. I can fit 21, but I'm really, really cramming in that last round. Will these likely loosen up or may they require a little squeezing in a vise like the STI mags in the linked thread?
Are there any other modifications or tweaks that CZ mags might need?
Thanks
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Oh... So there's hope that I can drill out the dimples on my 10 round .40 S&W mags I have coming with the pistol...
Nope, ten round .40 mags have a short body and a big plastic block for a base pad, whereas ten round 9mm mags have a full length tube with a dimple which can in fact be drilled out. However you're in luck, Exile Machine sells full cap mags to shooters in restricted states disassembled into parts kits and they recently got a shipment of TS .40 mags.
I'm not in a restricted state. I just ordered the pistol with the 10 round mags for restricted states because that's all I could find in stock. Already have the factory 17 round mags in hand.
But, thanks for clearing up that the 9mm mags can in fact be drilled out.
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I don't think you can drill out the dimples to get to full 17 round capacity in the magazines. Those 10 round mags have inverted ribs that go down the length of them that would surely effect the capacity of the mag. You might be able to drill out the dimples and get more rounds than 10 in there, but not 17 I don't think. Only Tac Sport I could find came with 10 round mags and it's on order and they're taking a long time to ship so I don't have the 10 round mags in my hands to look at. Just going by the picture. I went ahead and ordered 4 17 round mags with extended base pads to use for competition and figure I'll use the 10 round mags for practice.
I believe a Blade Tech DOH holster with the DOH portion removed is approved for IDPA. I would think you'd need to buy a different holster for each pistol unless going the CR Speed route and those aren't legal for IDPA.
For mag pouches, the CR Speed pouches are popular for USPSA and can be adjusted to fit many different mags. Not sure about those for IDPA as I don't really shoot it.
I should have mentioned the Tac Sport is in 9mm. The ribs that go down the length of the mag are there for both the 10 round version and 20 round version. I imagine they use the same magazine for the 9mm and 40, but put in those ribs for the 9mm to take up soem "slack" or space that would normally be there when using the 9mm instead of the 40...
Oh... So there's hope that I can drill out the dimples on my 10 round .40 S&W mags I have coming with the pistol...
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I don't think you can drill out the dimples to get to full 17 round capacity in the magazines. Those 10 round mags have inverted ribs that go down the length of them that would surely effect the capacity of the mag. You might be able to drill out the dimples and get more rounds than 10 in there, but not 17 I don't think. Only Tac Sport I could find came with 10 round mags and it's on order and they're taking a long time to ship so I don't have the 10 round mags in my hands to look at. Just going by the picture. I went ahead and ordered 4 17 round mags with extended base pads to use for competition and figure I'll use the 10 round mags for practice.
I believe a Blade Tech DOH holster with the DOH portion removed is approved for IDPA. I would think you'd need to buy a different holster for each pistol unless going the CR Speed route and those aren't legal for IDPA.
For mag pouches, the CR Speed pouches are popular for USPSA and can be adjusted to fit many different mags. Not sure about those for IDPA as I don't really shoot it.
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Are there any other sources for Grams Engineering mag springs and followers? I emailed them Monday morning and still have not received a response. I've tried calling several times on various days and various times of the day.
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Thanks for the info, guys. I'll check out Grams springs. I'll also look for an extended firing pin. Even if it functions well now, I like to have spare parts on hand.
As to the 16/17 capacity, maybe the mag bodies are the same but there's a slight difference in the base pad? I guess I'll find out when they get here.
Glad to hear my current load should work fine. I also use Titegroup, 4.7 gr with a 180 gr JHP from Montana Gold.
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I shoot USPSA Limited with a G35 currently. I've been thinking about a 2011 but don't have the skills to justify the cost of a custom 2011. I have a couple CZ firearms and really like them. Yesterday I ordered a Tactical Sport in .40 S&W. Now, I have a ton of questions.
The only one I could find in stock came with 10 round mags. I've ordered two mags from CZ Custom and two direct from CZ. Both have the same part number but CZ Custom lists them at 17 rounds and CZ at 16 rounds. Are they the same mag?
I've ordered four extended base pads from CZ Custom. They're out of stock on the springs and followers they recommend. Are there substitute springs and followers I should look at or just wait until theirs come back in stock?
I ordered a stainless guide rod and 15 lb recoil spring. I wasn't sure what spring weight I should try for the mainspring. Looked like the most popular was 13 lb and CZ Custom was out of stock. Is that the weight I should look for?
I reload and have a bunch of .40 S&W I loaded up for my G35. I loaded to major PF and used CCI primers and an OAL of 1.135". I'm hoping these will function in the TS. What loads are you guys using in your TSs?
I ordered a Blade Tech DOH holster as well. I have some CR Speed pouches I had already ordered and a comp belt.
What about sights? I like a fiber optic front sight.
What parts should I stock up on to keep in my range bag?
Thanks for any info!
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Are split cases the main thing one should be looking for in .40 S&W? I'm looking for split mouths on cases as well as any defect further down in the brass. Loaded up 1,800 rounds the other day and found one with an odd defect in the brass. It was about 2/3 the way down the case, about 1/8" long. I'll see if I can get a pic in the next couple days. It was odd.
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I ordered lanolin from a pharmacy. Used 1 ounce lanolin to about 6 ounces 91% alcohol. Had to warm the bottle up a bit in hot water but it worked well. Each time I've needed case lube I've had to warm it up a bit and then it's good for the rest of the day. Letting it sit for a couple days seems to allow the lanolin to separate and settle to the bottom. Rewarming it gets it ready for use again.
Tips welcome
in Video Training Tips
Posted
Not yet. I'm going to try to take one this summer if I can get the time off.