dpollard
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Posts posted by dpollard
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I am getting my 650 set up to load for the 300 blackout and was shocked to see Dillon wants an arm and a leg for their die set in this caliber ($174). I have a set of RCBS dies for resizing and seating (no crimp) and a separate LFCD. I am running into issues with the sizing die body staying in place. I found I had to put the lock ring on the underside of the die plate on the press as I did not have enough room to grip the threads on the die on the top side of the die plate. By putting the lock ring on the underside of the die plate, I find the die body threads into the press further and further (nothing on top to hold it in place). Do others have this same issue? Looking for input, seems like a jimmy rigged system the way I have it. Are there other die brands that work better in the 650?
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They said it may fit on some 1911's and not others. They did not go into detail as to why.
Did PT mention why it may not work with a 1911? I have theirs on a 2011 and just can't imagine why it wouldn't work.
Jon -
Thank you for all the replies. This gives me some options to look at.
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Egw
Expensive but works great
This one?: http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=product&id=150
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What are all you lefties out there using for ambi safety's that function reliably and hold up to repeated use? I have found the STI ambi safety and the ED brown ambi safety to fail after a very short time. The linkage just does not seem to be strong enough to withstand the disengaging it from the right side. After a while the tolerances get so loose the safety will be pressed completely down but not disengage it.
I have a Phoenix Trinity in my 2011 and it has been the only one that has been reliable. I have an STI Trojan on the way and I am looking to put in an ambi safety but when I spoke to PT on the phone they said it may not work in a 1911 platform. Looking for other options...
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^^^^^^^^^ +1 on this.
Savages are typically very accurate right out of the box. The nice thing about Savage is once you have the action you can easily swap barrels for difference calibers later on. Shilen and Criterion both make excellent match grade barrels that are pre-fit for Savage actions, you literally just unscrew old barrel and screw new one on. Does require an action wrench and barrel nut wrench along with head-space guages but both can be had for just over $100, maybe less if you buy used.
You do not have to spend $3,000+ to get into a long range gun. I am into mine about $1200 and it shoots great. I already owned a Vortex Viper scope so I put that on and it has served me well out to 1K yards. I do not shoot competition but enjoy shooting long-range.
I know remington has a cult like following with the Rem 700, but I humbly suggest you get online or into local shops and look for clean used savage with the accutrigger. They are definitely ugly, but I think they are one of the best values in rifles. I picked up a new 10 FLCP-k for dirt cheap (one advantage of shooting lefty). Put on a Vortex HS-T (same glass as PST but without the IR. If you don't need FFP its way cheaper). and a set of Forster dies and it is an honest half moa rifle. If I do my part and the wind is right it will dip into the .20's for a 5 shot group.
Keep in mind that your rifle is only as good as its weakest point. Don't skimp on your rings and bases!
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I have used them with zero issues in my STI.
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I have the Vortex Viper 4-16 SFP. Not exactly what you're looking at but the magnification is the same. It has worked well for me out to about 950 yards but I found that when I stretch much beyond 1000 I wish I had the extra power. If I were you I would go for the higher magnification, you can always turn it down if mirage become a problem. I am not sure if there is much, if any, difference in the glass between the Viper line and the PST line, that to me would make more of a difference than power range.
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can you please expand on the 'issue with the frame at the top?' my deal with impact-resistant glasses is they're just too tight against my head (all corners of the lenses/frame). I realize that reduces the chance of stuff getting in or to my eyes, but I fog up tremendously and then can see nothing which doesn't help my scores all that much. would be awesome to find a pair that had more of a sunglasses - looser fit and thus had some airflow.
I too have the problem with fogging. The pair I linked in my OP has vents cut into the lens, which I am hoping will reduce or eliminate the fogging issue. It is very frustrating to fog up right in the middle of a stage.
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Oakley is releasing a new shooting specific model soon. It's called the "tombstone" looks pretty nice.
The lens change out on those is slick! Makes me wonder why Oakley didn't tell me about those yesterday. I specifically asked if they had a shooting specific pair.
Any idea on a release date and MSRP?
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Does the 5197 actually fit the XDM 5.25? Safariland' website says they are not compatible.
Fits like a glove.
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I really appreciate all the replies.This really helps narrow down things for me. Don't want to over complicate this but gotta start somewhere. I'll check these out.
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I have the shooting specific Prizm lenses and love them.
Can you elaborate on this? I didn't realize they had a shooting specific lens but would love to know more.
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I've got a credit with an Oakley dealer that I plan to use toward a pair of Oakley shooting glasses. Upon looking at their website I was quickly overwhelmed by the amount of choices. Almost too many to make a decision. Is there a model in the Oakley line that is more conducive to shooting than others? I live in Idaho, desert climate, mostly sunny during the summer. Right now I am looking at the pair below but I am open to suggestions:
In addition to the lenses in the picture they come with a clear set, which I thought would be good for overcast days.
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I've got a brand new Safariland model 5197. Never been used and I just sold my xdm 5.25.
I've also got the mid-ride universal belt loop I'd sell with it. The holster is $34 new and the belt loop is $20 + shipping.
How about both of them for $50 shipped to you?
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New to the 2011 platform. I shoot limited class in USPSA and I am currently having an STI 2011 built.
I am looking at getting a holster for it but need some advice/input on types of holsters. The 2 I am looking at are the Safariland 014 and the LimCat. What are the advantages/disadvantages of having the barrel support (Safariland) vs no barrel support (LimCat)? Is it purely a matter of personal preference?
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New to the 2011 platform. I shoot limited class in USPSA and I am currently having an STI 2011 built.
I am looking at getting a holster for it but need some advice/input on types of holsters. The 2 I am looking at are the Safariland 014 and the LimCat. What are the advantages/disadvantages of having the barrel support (Safariland) vs no barrel support (LimCat)? Is it purely a matter of personal preference?
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TTI gets my vote as well.
Just set 4 of them up with TTI guts and STI stock tubes and I get 21 no sweat.
I got my tubs from Dawson precision and the guys from TTI direct.
Hit the rep up on here to see if you can get a discount code too.
Goon luck.
How do I locate the rep? Shooters Connection is sold out of the basepads (as of last night). I'd like to get some ordered. My gun should be complete pretty soon and I want to get practicing with it, loads developed and any issues worked out before mid-March, which is my first match for the season.
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Thanks for all the replies. This will definitely get me on the right track.
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. Make sure to sign up for the forum discount
How do I go about doing that?
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I am new to the 2011 platform and have some questions regarding mags.
I shoot limited division in USPSA so I am looking to get about 20-21 .40 rounds in each mag. Most factory mags I see for sale list s17 rounds. To increase capacity is it just a matter of swapping factory internals with different bases, springs and followers? I am currenlty leaning toward TTI internals and flat base pad. Good choice?
Where is a good (read inexpensive but not sacrificing quality) place to buy just the 140mm mag body?
Thanks in advance.
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The culprit ended up being that I had the wrong charge bar in the powder hopper. Changed it out, slowed down a bit and it ran flawlessly. I did also end up having to take down the press and give it a thorough cleaning as the powder had gunked up the priming system to where it wouldn't rotate. Once that was cleaned up, and after I found the locater tab spring that went flying across the room, all was well.
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I was mistaken when I said the medium bar. I must be using the small one. I appreciate everyone's input. I will recheck the charge bar and also wait longer to let the powder drop.
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I just purchased a conversion kit to begin loading for .223 on my 650. I have not loaded rifle on it before and am running into an issue.
When trying to set the powder charge to 24.5 grains I have maxed out the adjustment and am only getting to 21 grains.
I'm using Ramshot Tac for my powder. I will also note that powder is spilling everywhere when charging a case. Something seems to be really off somewhere but I don't know where to begin to troubleshoot. At first I thought perhaps I have the wrong charge bar in the measure but if I'm getting 20 grains that shouldn't be the case. I read that the medium charge bar should throw from 10.0 grains to 40-45 grains. The amount of powder that spills does not constitute 19 grains so it's not a matter of losing a few grains, as mentioned, the charge bar is maxed out.
Loading 300 Blackout on 650
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Thanks for the replies. I thought about using the lee lock rings as they seem to get a bit more grip. I'll try that out and see what happens.