dpollard
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Posts posted by dpollard
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I'm not worried about powder supply anymore, at least not for now. Every time I go to my local sporting goods stores the powder supply seems to have grown. Not to the point of them having everything in stock but certainly better than even 6 months ago. If I keep my eyes open I seem to find more powder than I need. Although, it is harder to pass it up when I see something I need. I was able to score 8 lbs of VV N320 this last spring and it has lasted me all summer and hopefully into next spring. Luckily I have a great local shop that supports local shooters and when they get a shipment of powder in the shooting community gets first crack at it.
My biggest concern is the price has gone up due to limited supply and I'm wondering if the retailers will keep it elevated (even once supply picks up to "normal" levels) knowing what the consumer is willing to pay. I certainly pay more per lb now that I ever have.
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Going to see it next week with some buddies. Looking forward to it.
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I plan to switch to MIL/MIL just so I can learn faster with their input.
Yes, and no - it depends on what you are getting for input. If all you are getting is, "Go up three clicks.", then you aren't really learning all that much.
If you want to really learn, I mean really deep down learn, then the angular measure you are using shouldn't matter. You need to get comfortable with both systems and the math and even with English vs Metric measurements. Comfortable to the point where you can be a spotter for someone else and have it not matter what they are using.
Your mileage may vary. Offer not available in all states.
You make very valid points and I agree. I should clarify, I believe it would be easier to learn the finer points if there is someone there that has gone before you teaching you the same material. Again, I'm still new to this so nuance may be lost on me but there is only so much I can learn by reading. I learn by reading and then going out and doing. If I'm the only guy shooting MOA then it is hard to have people teach me MOA in the field if all they know is MIL.
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Finished building this past spring. Has a 650 and a RCBS Rockchucker. Works great!
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Give me a second to get my flame suit on......okay....I'm ready. When I first started shooting higher volume pistol I bought a Lee Pro 1000. It's small and simple to use. You will find PLENTY of people badmouthing it online, however, I found it to be a very productive press once I took the time to get it set up properly. I loaded up close to 10,000 rounds with it, no problems. I have since upgraded to a 650 but don't over look the Pro 1000.
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I simply use a production die set. Not sure of a need for a competition die set for pistol.
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Got into shooting USPSA consistently last spring. Met some great people who have helped along the way and look forward to getting great advice on here.
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Commercial real estate
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Went out with a buddy this weekend and had a chance to use one for the first time.Nice units. I hit at 906 yards, first shot! It was also my first time shooting long-range. Excellent unit, just a little too pricey for me.
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This advice comes from another new shooter to the long range game. I am currently using an MOA/MOA scope. My advice for you is to use whatever the other people you shoot with use. Most of the guys at my range shoot MIL/MIL so I feel like it's harder for them to help me since they are using different system. I plan to switch to MIL/MIL just so I can learn faster with their input. I think either system is fine, both are effective if you take the time to learn it.
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Figured I would put all three together for people to see size comparisons.
You sure you're not just showing off?
Nice looking glass. -
Nice looking rifle. I just finished a build in a .260. I have been very impressed with the H4350 using 140 gr Hornady Match Bullets. They were the first combo I tried in load development and was lucky enough to find a winner! Had a chance to take it out this last weekend and shot to 906 yds. I got about the same velocity you are getting. Again, great looking build and nice groups.
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I used it exclusively for the first 2 years of shooting my .40. Had zero issues with it. A lot of people bad mouthed it but I don't know why. I'm on my 5th or 6th firing with it, still going strong.
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I am working up a new load with my M&P 40 with new bullet and powder. The pistol is the standard size, 4.25" barrell. I shot some paper and realized some (about 10 out of 200) of my bullets are tumbling/keyholing. Looking for ideas on what could be causing this. My components are as follows:
Powder: 5.1 grains Vihtavuori N320
Bullet: 180 grain xtreme RNFP plated
Seated: 1.127"
Velocity: 918 FPS
Crimp: .421" (10 bullet average) - ranges from .420-.422"
Bras: Mixed
Primer: CCI 500
When I was setting up my crimp I pulled a few bullets and the case left just a slight indentation around the plating but did not break the surface so I don't think I'm overcrimping.
I've never had this happen to me before (loaded about 8,000 rounds for this pistol). Any input, ideas, suggestions...? I recently switched to the plated bullets from moly-coated lead. Some have suggested tumbling/keyholing is caused by undersized bullets, not having a clean chamber etc...heard many theories. Hoping you all can give me some solid advice. -
Thanks for the replies. I'll try to turn the nut upside down and see what happens.
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I broke down and bought a Dillon XL 650 today. I went to adjust my dies beginning with the resizing die first. It is an EGW-U (undersizing die), which is supposed to remove "Glock bulge". When I raise the ram to screw the die into the press I can get the die far enough down but it's so deep the lock ring will not grab the threads on the outside of the die to engage the lock ring and secure the die. Are there any fixes to this? is this a normal issue with this press/die combination. If it matters the die is for 9mm but I am also planning on loading for .40 as well with the EGW-U die.
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There is no alternative. Just go ahead and send me your brass, I'll take good care of it. In all honesty, there are many options that work as described in previous posts. For me personally, I use the EGW Undersize die. Works flawlessly. I think people tend to overplay the "glocked" brass issue.
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I bought the basepads from Speed Shooters and also bought the springs from them. I beleive they were ISMI springs and they did not have the bends in them to hook into the follower. After I sent the basepads into TT and they returned them to me I noticed the springs had bends in them and were hooked into the follower. I'm wondering if TT switched out the power springs I ordered and replaced them with different ones or if the bent the ones I sent in. I don't know...I just ordered a brush so for the next match I will clean the mags everytime they hit the ground and see if that fixes the problem.
Are you still having issues? Keep in mind, Speed Shooter's doesn't use the springs that we make with the pad ( which is why the spring was different ).
The issue seems to have been fixed with the newer springs installed by TTI. Just wish I hadn't spent $40 on power springs that don't work.
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Thanks for getting back dpollard. I have heard that Power Pistol is really loud and a lot of muzzle flash, is the 7625 the same? What is your recipe?
I am shooting a G35, just btw.
Thanks!
I'm using 5.7 grains, which is max in my load book. There was no load data published in my book for lead bullets so I took the jacketed data and dropped it 10% (both minimum listed and maximum listed) I worked up to 5.7 grains this with a chrono starting around 4.2 grains. I plan to back it off a bit to get a little lower on the power factor.
I find it to be a bit softer than Power Pistol. Never really notice muzzle flash with either powder.
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So I have the ability to buy an #8 jug of this locally, and was wondering a similar question. I am a fairly new reloader so I want a safe load, would you consider this to be a pretty forgiving/safe powder to use?
I am currently using IMR 700x and hate it, it meters terribly and is smoky as all hell with 180 gr cast lead.
Is this going to be less smoky than the 700X? Is it fairly soft for limited?
I'm in the same boat except I have 8lbs. I'm loading at 1.18 oal and there is no data for that oal.
I'm assuming you haven't had a chance to load and chrono it? I've found several load recipes via Google search but you never know on those. I have some load date in my Lee book but for jacketed bullets. I don't recall if you're supposed to use less or more powder for moly-coated lead bullets, if any change at all...
Have either of you guys done any loads yet to try it out? I would appreciate hearing your first hand experience.
I did a few searches on here and saw people loading it in everything from shotguns to anything minor to open guns... it seems versitile which I like. I would much rather be able to just stock one powder for 9 minor, 40 minor, 40 major, 45 (in the future) and 9 minor (again, in the future).
Sorry for all the questions!
I found a load with it that I am happy with. It is running about 173 power factor. I don't notice any difference with this load than with my load using Power Pistol.
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Think I've heard of a lot of people using this for open guns, slower powder real blasty from what I hear, haven't heard of anybody using it for lim major.
Is this considered a slower burning powder? Seems like it's a relatively fast burning powder to me, according to this chart: http://www.frfrogspad.com/burnrate.htm Not discounting what you're saying, just trying to learn.
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Thanks for all the replies. I will replace the striker spring and the recoil spring, as a few people have suggested to me to do. I have been using CCI primers with no issues for the first 6,000 rounds. A few others have also suggested I switch to a softer primer.
For my own understanding...why would a new, softer, brand of primers fix the problem? From looking at the primers the striker is barely hitting the primers but seems to me that's not the primer's fault, but rather the striker not engaging properly. Do the lighter triggers cause the striker not to fall as hard on the primer? Just curious on the mechanics of the gun...
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I put the mags back to stock today and put about 40 rounds through the gun with no failure to feeds. However, I did have 3 light primer strikes again. I am thinking I may have 2 issues. 1 - the new trigger may be causing the light primer strikes? 2 - the magazine are causing the failure to feeds. I will go with your approach and put it all back to factory and add one upgrade at a time until the problems surfaces again. Thanks for the input.
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I'm hoping this is the right section for this topic. I have a S&W M&P .40. It has about 6-7,000 rounds through it. It is all factory parts with the exception that I put an APEX FSS trigger in it and added Taran Tactical Basepads to he magazines, both changes about 1 month ago.
Before these changes the gun ran flawlessly with my hand-loaded ammo. However, after these changes the gun has began to mis-feed quite a bit. Today at a USPSA match I had 3 rounds with light primer strikes. I'm trying to narrow down what my problem may be. Some have suggested that since I have so many rounds through the gun it may be that I need to replace the recoil spring (again, original factory part in gun now). Since I did these changes at about the same time the gun started malfunctioning it makes it a bit more difficult to pinpoint the problem.
Do any of you have suggestions on where to start to diagnose my issues? What would cause light primer strikes? I cleaned every mag that hit the ground in between stages today...
Any and all input greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Nice looking glass.
Falling ammo prices.
in What I Like
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+1 ^^ LOL. I had actually never even considered buying factory ammo, just always assumed hand-loading was cheaper. The prices you quoted for your components are reasonable too. Although hand loading is fun, I may need to take a closer look at buying bulk, loaded ammo.