torrentuser

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When it comes to seating 224 Valkyrie bullets, couldn't you use a 223 Remington seating die? I have the Redding Competition Dies for 223Rem and I want to make sure that I don't have to buy another seating die. Thanks in advance.

F-Apple...

The AX338MC Twist rate: 9 3/8s : 1 so I think it was really designed to push the 300gr pills. I have the: http://www.forsterproducts.com/catalog.asp?prodid=700448&showprevnext=1 They only make a full sizing die. May be good for the first shot but afterwards, with my fire formed brass, wouldn't I want a neck bump die? Does everyone full size after every shot? I understand that is pretty stressful on the brass. -Torrentuser

Good Day! I recently purchased an AX338MC with a 27inch barrel and live in Silicon Valley, CA. I plan to target shoot from 800 to 1600 yards. I intend on building a ladder for myself during load generation. Here are my details: 8lbs. of RL33 Lapua Brass, 100count Sierra Match King 300gr, 500 count CCI Large Rifle Magnum Primers #250 According to the RL33 site: Alliant Powder - Reloader's Guide 338 Lapua Magnum 300 gr Sierra Match King Lapua 3.68 24 Fed 215 Reloder 33 97.5 2,748 97.5 grains should be good. What is strange is they don't have a safe and a max grain count. I think I should treat 97.5 as the max and reload up to it. Am I right? I was thinking of doing a ladder of the following: 93.5gr 94.5gr 95.5gr 96.5gr 97.7gr (5 rounds each) [Expensive huh!?] Is that nuts? I have a controlled 200 yard range that I was planning on using, but I'm afraid I'll just be putting them through the same hole and not see any widening / contracting of my groups. What distance would you recommend building a ladder on? Any greater and I'll need to go out in the wilderness (BLM Land). It won't be controlled and I probably shooting prone instead of on a bench. --------------- What to do with my brass? So these are brand new... I opened the box and could smell Finland. Do I full length size these? Do I just shoot them, assuming they are in spec out of the box, and get them fire formed to my barrel? What case prep is required for brand new Lapua brass? You guys are the authorities! Big thanks in advance! -torrentuser

Flatland, I am sorry to hear your tale of woe in regards to the inaccuracies of the powder measure. I got the Imr 4064 specifically because I heard it metered very well. I get that a progressive press provides for a quantity of rounds but I bought the best in the Dillon to get a more accurate / precise load in the equation. I will endeavor to find ways / means to move the balance further to precision. -Torrentuser

Thanks Jack, I am looking for more of your kind of serious advice. -Torrentuser

I am brand new to reloading. I have a Forster Co/Ax for precision .308 and yesterday I bought a XL650 from Brian to load 9mm, 38 Special, 357 Mag, and .223. I have all I need to make some ammo. This weekend, I'll likely start. Let's talk .308 for now because it will be a week or so until the XL650 is installed and ready to go. I have a Remington 700 .308 20inch AAC that I plan to shoot this out of. The brass was first shot out of this rifle. I even attached a picture of it. So I have my trusty Lyman book with safe loads and max loads. I have once fired Winchester brass, deprimed, and clean. I have 175gr Sierra MatchKing BTHPs. I have 8# of IMR4064. Lyman says to start with: 39.5 grains of powder and a max of 44grs of powder. The premise is that I need to find a load that my rifle likes, the goal is not to blow it up and injure myself. So I started to think, what do I do. I was thinking of starting out and making 4 rounds at 39.5, and then 4 rounds of 39.6, and then 4 rounds of 39.7, etc. Then I would go to the range, get my trusty Chrono out, and shoot a 4 round group, get speeds, capture my group lengths, and check my cases when I got done. Then magically it will come to me that (for example) 39.8 grains or 40.1 grs shoot great and tada, I haver the recipe that I will make for as long as I have the gun? Am I naive? better stated... I am naive... right? How should I approach this? I scoured the FAQs and I didn't read anything about building a load. Also, not in my reloading Handbook except for the following on page 95 of the 48th edition: All this simply gets you through the door to the party. Now the fun starts and we get to make some noise. Shoot this ammo carefully from a bench rest to evaluate accuracy. Try moving the powder charge up a little at a time to see if groups tighten or open up. If you are not at maximum, keep going because sometimes they will open up with a change and then close tighter as you move the charge weight higher. Watch the standard deviations on your chronograph to see if they are getting smaller or larger. Smaller is good as smaller standard deviations usually indicate more accurate ammo. But larger, particularly a rapid jump with just a small change in powder charge, might indicate that pressure is at maximum. Sometimes large standard deviations can be reduced by changing primers. Particularly if you go from a standard to a magnum primer. However, reduce your powder charge 5% if you do because the magnum primers will cause a jump in pressure. Once you have the best powder charge, experiment with bullet seating depth to see if accuracy is improved. Move the bullet in .005-inch increments and shoot to see if accuracy gets better or worse. That isn't all that helpful. Can you guys add some of your own experience on how I should begin or how you would approach it. -Torrentuser aka Lox