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MrWallace

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Posts posted by MrWallace

  1. I've noticed a problem that I've been developing (or have had and just didn't know it?) where lately, I'll approach a stage with a good idea of how I want to run it, where my reloads are, etc... But then once the timer goes off, it seems like all I'm doing is trying to race the clock.

    I can't figure it out and it's really frustrating! We used to have an old saying of "going through the motions" and it basically feels just like that. I know that I need to focus on getting my accuracy down and I think it's slowly getting better with practice, but I'm still frustrated.

    Anyone have the same issue? Any one have any possible resolutions?

  2. I read the brazos article as was suggested and made the changes to the slide stop as was stated, though I'm sure I'm going to be getting a nitro fin or something of the sort soon anyways.

    When I get the magazines in, I'll modify the followers as well. Thank you for the suggestions!

  3. I've searched a bit, albeit probably not as much as I could have, and didn't define what I'm looking for. What I'm trying to figure out is if I'm going to have to use .40 long or not.

    I'm in the final stages (at least I hope so!) of fitting my .40 STI and was wondering if I'm going to have to shoot .40 long or if I'll be able to use regular .40? I haven't reamed the barrel yet and didn't know if that was something I should be aware of when I do ream it? I understand this may be a gun smithing question but thought I'd ask here first before posting in that section.

    Thank you in advance!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. That is the question... or at least that's been one of the millions of questions running through my mind as I build out my limited STI pistol. The question I've been asking myself as I spend hours searching and reading is why do some people not want their slide to lock back after the last round, while others do? Is there an advantage to the slide not locking back? I mean, it seems that it's mostly shooter preference, but I'm curious if not having it lock back helps cycling or something like that.

  5. Tactical Texture- that is a mighty fine pistol there! I work with Robert and am actually excited that I stumbled over this post! Hope it's shooting well for you!

    If anyone else is looking into one of these fine pistols, I highly recommend them! Also, if anyone that gets one is interested in having work done to it, The Sig Armorer is always ready and willing to do the work!

  6. I run these and I love them! As stated try can be a bit of a pain to get situated but once you get them where you want them they rock!

    I bought them because I was able to get 5 for $100 shipped (via Amazon) and they work out perfectly with my bladetech belt.

    While the DAA ones would be my first choice, these are a good alternative for half the price.

  7. Hello all, I am working on moving into the limited division and the pistol setup aside (I'm shooting an M&P Pro .40 5") I have a few questions in regards to setting up the mags.

    I've done a bit of searching and while I've seen it mentioned, I can't really find anything for setting up M&P mags for limited. I know that I need to get extensions (I have some of the TTI ones on order) but I've read somewhere that I should cut down the followers? Is there anyone that can point me in the right direction that would tell/show me what all I need to do to them? How much does this really help out or is it something that is really necessary for me to do?

    Thanks in advance!

  8. Honestly, with what you'll want to do to the pistol and the parts that you'll want to get to do that, you'd be better off going with the normal 5" long. The only real differences between the Pro series and the regular 5" (as far as internally) are that the Pro comes with performance center parts AKA they change out the sear, the plunger spring, and so entires they change out the trigger spring for one a couple pounds lighter. Externally, the Pro series comes with fiber optic sights and a blacked out rear while the regular model comes with either tritium night sights or just regular white dot sights. Oh, the Pro also has "Pro Series" engraved in the slide... So there's that...

    But if you're at all interested in changing up the trigger, you could get the apex forward set sear and trigger kit and all of that would be replace anyways (and for not much more than you'd pay for the Pro series and you'd have a better feeling trigger!).

  9. How many rounds have been fired through the pistol? Would you be able to duplicate the issue and take some pictures for us?

    I'd say before you start to really change anything up, to do like mike said and pull the extractor out and give it a good cleaning, as well as the slide where the extractor is. Then go test and see if it's still giving you issues. M&P's

    Aside from that, it could be a number of things. Maybe those few rounds were loaded differently, your recoil spring could be going out, your extractor spring could be going out, your extractor might be going bad, as you said maybe you picked up some 9 major cases and they slipped through on your measuring stage. It could be a lot of things, but I'd suggest starting with the easiest stuff and moving forward from there.

    Good luck and keep us posted!

  10. If you're interested, I work at The Sig Armorer (a gunsmith in the north Texas area), and we handle a decent amount of M&P work. Whether it be for competition or carry, we'd be more than happy to handle any of the work you need or would like done to your M&P! Check us out at www.thesigarmorer.com and if you would like a reference, Toyotafrank here on the forum can tell you all about the work we've done for him.

    That being said, I'd recommend the aluminum or polymer FSS and trigger kit. The price difference isn't too great and the aluminum trigger feels awesome! As for a spring kit, the FSS and trigger kits both come with new trigger springs and new sear springs so you wouldn't have to buy a spring kit unless you wanted to change out your striker spring.

    For internal parts, I'd say you'll want to eventually put a different barrel in there, as well as polishing up the contact points and what not. I'm not sure what the rules are for 3-gun but if its the same rules from normal USPSA pistol matches, then depending on your division you may want to rethink what all you're doing to the pistol.

    Good luck, feel free to message me with any questions!

  11. I work at The Sig Armorer shop up in Denton and we are now offering M&P trigger jobs and other M&P gunsmithing as well. Based on what you're going to be using the pistol for, we reduce the values of the take-up, creep, overtravel, trigger reset, and pull weight to produce the best possible trigger for you.


    So if you're still in need of a good trigger job, or would like to just check out some of the work we've done give us a call or you can send me an email/message and we'll work out a time to get together.


    www.thesigarmorer.com

  12. After looking at the 2012 USPSA Multigun Rules online, it appears to me that the only difference between the tactical division and the limited division is that in tactical you are allowed a max of one optic on the rifle, regardless of magnification/variable powered, while in limited you're allowed one non-magnified/varibale powered.

    Does that mean that in limited you could technically have multiple optics on the rifle, as long as one is non-magnified/variable powered?

    Also, aside from what's in the USPSA rulebook, is there somewhere that has a list or a description of what is/isn't allowed to be changed/modified on a pistol for the limited division?

    Thank you in advance for the help!

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