[Pop Holes In Kkm .40 Barrel With Comp]

Leo,

One of the problems that you may have had with your last HS6 experiment was compensator efficiency. If the comp chambers or ports are not properly sized, or efficient, the extra gas built by the slower powder does you no good, and actually does more bad. You need to vent the majority of the gas upward or outward to keep it from exiting the final baffle hole.

I have been the route of 10mm major before and know that the slow powders do work in that caliber, if you have a decent combination. We actually had .45 caliber open loads that performed very well at the lower pressures.

Catch me this weekend and we can discuss this at length.

Leo (the other Leo)

Tim, Eric, and Leo (the 'good' Leo)

You all have given me some good ideas to help me get started on the 'pop holes' project! Leo and Eric, I hope to see you both this Sunday if I can fix the magazine catch spring and get the Glock working again.

My Thanx to all for your responses!

Leo (aka the 'bad' Leo)

[Pop Holes In Kkm .40 Barrel With Comp]

flexmoney is right. The HS6 will require more powder, filling the case and should cause enough gas pressure to operate the comp as it was designed. TG is a good limited power, but not so good using a comp. It burns too fast. The slower burning powder will still be burning when it reaches the comp. I personally use 7.0grs. of N340 vv. behind a 165gr. JHP zero. I am using a 6 port stormlake barrell. I am getting a 192 PF.

Flex and RStandley:

Several months ago I tried 10 grains of HS6 pushing a 135 Berrys bullet through a Stormlake 6 port barrel. It made a PF of around 175, but I did not like the feel of the recoil. I prefer the feel of the 155 bullet, so I'll definitely try the HS6 with a 155 bullet. Thanx Flex and RStandley!

I would still like to get input on how to port (drill holes) in the KKM barrel with comp. So, if anyone has experience with this, I would greatly appreciate your input.

Leo

[Broken Magazine Catch Spring]

Leo

Those springs crack after a lot of use.

I asked Fred at the indoor range replace mine. I think I even gave him a new replacement for the one out of his box of parts. Just takes a small screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Once I got the new one in my G35 it was obvious the old part had been getting weaker for the previous 6 months at least.

Hey, Eric:

I'm glad to hear the spring is replaceable. I'll see if Fred can help me replace it.

I hope to see you shoot your new 38 Super at Ruskin on Sunday!

Thanx for your quick response, Eric!

Leo

[Broken Magazine Catch Spring]

Fellow Glockers:

Last night while shooting a stage at our Tuesday night mini-match, the magazine catch spring gave up the ghost. The magazines dropped out of the gun about as fast as I could put in a fresh one.

At first I thought it was the oversized JP mag release button that I installed about a year ago. However, after I removed the button and mag catch I discovered that the spring itself is broken, or weak, or lose, . . .or something? I practice reloads several times per week during dry fire practice.

There is almost no tension to it, and will barely hold a full mag in place. I've never removed or replaced this small spring that sits about half way down on the inside of the grip. In appearance it somewhat resembles the pointed end of an ejector rod. Is it replaceable? How does it come out?

Any advice on fixing/replacing this is greatly appreciated!

Please don't tell me that I have to send it back to the factory.@$%#^*!?

Many Thanx!

Leo

[Pop Holes In Kkm .40 Barrel With Comp]

Fellow Glockers,

I need your help! In order to further reduce muzzle flip I want to add some pop holes to my model 35 Open gun that has a KKM barrel/comp.

Currently I'm getting a 181 Power Factor (1167 FPS) using a 155 grain bullet with 5.7 grains of Tight Group. No signs of excessive pressure. I know that by adding pop holes I will lose some velocity, so I want to be sure that I can still safely make major PF . My questions are:

1. How many pop holes?

2. How large?

3. Should they be side-by-side in rows of two

4. Should they be single holes one behind the other

Anyone that is using a similar configuration. What is your loading receipe?

Any and all advice is most welcome.

Leo

[Storm Lake Barrel]

Greetings, Flexmoney, et al:

I have a couple of questions concerning the Storm Lake (SL) barrel.

I have a Glock 35 (.40 caliber) with a SL conversion barrel in 9 mm caliber. The SL barrel extends about 1 inch beyond the slide and has a total of 6 ports (pop holes). I have tested it with Winchester White Box and it seems to funnction well for minor PF. My set up includes a Docter dot sight, 14 lb wolf recoil spring and Vanek trigger. This combination shoots very flat and accurate.

I'd like to use this set-up in IPSC Open division using 9 Major loads. Can I use this set-up which includes the stock Glock slide and SL barrel for 9 Major loads? Is it necessary to replace the stock Glock slide with an after-market one? Is it possible to safely make major PF with so many ports (pop holes)? Any recommendations for bullet weight, powder type/and amount?

Any other advice and insight is most welcome.

Thanx!

I have a couple of glocks shooting stock stides shooting major. The slide (35) is not the issue they are plenty strong. I would take a hard look at the amount of support in the storm lake barel . Although they make a decent product I havent seen any thing they have produced with the material needed at the case mouth to support repeated firings(brass) of major 9 You might get away with new brass or once fired . go beyond that and look out for a 6'oglock rupture. The only barrel I know of and trust is the kkm gunsmith fit in 9 mm . made for 17 slides only . I wish it were better news but i would be carful with this set up.

Johnnie

Thanx for the detailed explanation, Johnnie! I will heed your advice and not shoot 9 Major out of this barrel. It definitely seems like the gunsmith fitted KKM is the way to go!

Thanx!

Best way to tell is to build up your loads toward Major and test for signs of pressure.

I'd try HS6 with 124g or 135g bullets.

Flex,

I recently tried a 135 Berry's bullet with 10.0 grains of HS6 for a 169 PF. There were no signs of excessive pressure, but I personally didn't like the feel of the recoil. Today I tested a new load using a 155 bullet with 5.9 grains of Tight Group. I like it much better than the 135 bullet. I need to chrono it and hope it makes major. I find I'm losing a lot of velocity with the 6 pop holes on the storm lake barrel. I guess I need to part with the $ for a KKM barrel.

I've learned a great deal through this forum.

Many thanx for your response, Flex!

[Pic Request]

I've just joined this site after about 2 years of lurking. I'm really interested in competing and already have a Glock 35. What I am interested in is seeing how people in this forum have modified their pistols. I would really love to see some pictures of everyone's favorite Glock blasters. I know mods are based on personal preference and practicality but I need some input on what mods you made and your reasons for doing so.

I'm familiar with the Vanek, Novak,and RS triggers and plan on an RS trigger based on reviews and price. When I have the wherewithall to do so I will probably upgrade depending on my performance with the RS.

Your input will be greatly appreciated and most valued.

Below are two pics of my 'poor man's' Open gun. I made most of the mods to experiment shooting the Open division without spending too much $. It's a Glock 35 modified as follows:

* Storm Lake barrel with 6 pop holes

* Docter red dot sight

* Vanek Trigger

* Wolfe 14 lb recoil spring

* T. H. E. brass mag well

* JP large mag release button

* Arrendondo mag extension/springs

Regards,

[Storm Lake Barrel]

Welcome to the board. Sounds like a nice set up that you have. I did a simple search under 9mm major and found a bunch of threads. This one might give you some insight into your question.

You might find this thread helpful: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...48&hl=9mm+major

If you hit the search button you can search all forums or you can search a specific forum like the 9mm/38 reloading board that will have some good threads for you to consider.

Have fun with your project and again, welcome.

Rick

Thanx for the link and for your welcome, Rick!

I found some more info by doing a search (as you suggested) on Storm Lake Barrel. However, I'd still like to hear from anyone who may be using a ported Storm Lake barrel for 9 Major.

Thanx again, Rick.

[Storm Lake Barrel]

Greetings, Flexmoney, et al:

I have a couple of questions concerning the Storm Lake (SL) barrel.

I have a Glock 35 (.40 caliber) with a SL conversion barrel in 9 mm caliber. The SL barrel extends about 1 inch beyond the slide and has a total of 6 ports (pop holes). I have tested it with Winchester White Box and it seems to funnction well for minor PF. My set up includes a Docter dot sight, 14 lb wolf recoil spring and Vanek trigger. This combination shoots very flat and accurate.

I'd like to use this set-up in IPSC Open division using 9 Major loads. Can I use this set-up which includes the stock Glock slide and SL barrel for 9 Major loads? Is it necessary to replace the stock Glock slide with an after-market one? Is it possible to safely make major PF with so many ports (pop holes)? Any recommendations for bullet weight, powder type/and amount?

Any other advice and insight is most welcome.

Thanx!

[Top Ten Drills]

As a new competitive shooter, I've been searching / reading about training drills. I've compiled several (including some mentioned here). Here is my first attempt at a collection. Comments / suggestions are welcome.

http://www.woodfam.com/forums/Collection_o...e_Drills_v1.pdf

Ryan

Ryan,

Many thanx for posting your collection of drills. I printed them and plan to use some of them in the near future!

Regards,

Leo

[Tigger Control]

"Secret mantra: "Loose the tension (grip is firm), Float the finger (interface with trigger bow only), Track the sights (omit this for a dot and replace with "Project the ball"), Snap the eyes (to the next target, array, position)."

Crusher, thanx for your reply!

In the beginning I used a ' death grip,' but I'm fairly certain that I have removed any excessive tension especially from my strong hand and trigger finger. However, your post reminds me that I still have a great deal of tension in my upper arms, shoulder, and neck.

I like your secret mantra and will be using it! It's a positive way to remind yourself to do everything right. I promise, I'll keep it secret.

Warm regards,

Leo

[Tigger Control]

Thanx for your prompt reply, Brian!

I experimented with pulling the trigger while watching TV last night. In just one session of repetitively pulling the tirigger slowly at about 2-seconds per pull, I have increased my awareness and feel of the trigger pull. I can tell this drill will help me!

BTW, I found where you describe this drill in your book under 'Trigger Contol" on page 83. I read and highlighted this paragraph about a year ago , but forgot about it because I have been working on the following paragraph that deals with how to cure the flinch.

Again, many thanx for your reply!

Leo

[Tigger Control]

Any suggestions welcome!

I have been shooting about 2 years. I am a D shooter in Limited 10 and more recently in Open. My old eyes can see the red dot a WHOLE LOT better!

I'm using a metronome (music tick-tock device) ocassionally for dry-fire practice and to determine how quickly I can pull the trigger without disturbing the dot. I find that the fastest I can pull the trigger continuously without disturbing the dot is only about 2 pulls per second. At 3 pulls per second the dot moves quite a bit, and at 4 pulls per second the erratic dot movement indicates 'mikes' or D hits at best. Pulling the trigger at this speed also causes 'trigger freeze.'

I currently dry-fire about an hour per day, 4 days per week. I include pressing the trigger at least twice with every single dry-fire practice drill, which include draws, indexes, transitions, reloads, shooting on the move, moving into and out of a 3-foot box, etc. I have incorporated practice drills from this forum as well as some from the Anderson book and the Matt Burkett web site and video. Overall, the dry fire practice has helped me to improve quite a bit!

It seems that I have improved in all areas (including accuracy, draw, movement, reloades, transitions, etc.), but I am still shooting at a top speed of only about 2 shots per second (I think this is called "splits?") in live fire and during a match. When I try to push beyond this my accuracy suffers greatly.

How can I increase my ability to pull the trigger quickly while not disturbing the sights?

Any suggestions or insights are most welcome!

Leo

[drop in trigger jobs by Dale Rhea]

With 14 out of 26 not firing...that's not the trigger job. Something is broke. I'd suspect the ammo.

Flexmoney, you're correct. My problem of light strikes with Dale's trigger turned out to be a defective ISMI 15 spring. I installed a new spring and fired about 400 - 500 rounds. Upon removing the spring for cleaning, I noticed that the spring had compressed, losing about 20 - 30% or more of its original length. It was several inches shorter than my buddy's identical 15 lb spring.

I contacted ISMI via telephone, and learned that ISMI thinks that one batch of springs (mostly 13, 15, and 17 lb) was not properly heat treated. The fellow I talked with was quite helpful. He instructed me to send him the defective springs for immediate replacement.

With a good spring, the Dale trigger now runs fine, so there is nothing wrong with the Dale's drop-in trigger that I installed in my G-35.

BTW, Flexmoney, I've learned a lot from your posts! I printed and put your recent post "Kyle's Flinch Breaker - 101" into my range bag. I've read these same concepts in BE's book, but it helps me to see them again....and again....and again ...Duh!?

Flashooter

[drop in trigger jobs by Dale Rhea]

Any dirt or lubricant in the firing pin tunnel can cause malfunction such as light strikes and misfires.

This trigger job will require periodic maintenance. After several thousand rounds the contact surfaces will need to be polished in order to restore that “like new” feel.

Regards

Dale

Greetings, Dale and fellow Glockers!

Many thanx for your clarification concerning the confusion about adjustment, and your reminder to clean the firing pin tunnel!

I 've been using your 2.5# drop-in trigger kit and it has functioned flawlessly for about 1,500 rounds. However, today I experienced 10 light primer strikes (primer did not ignite) out of 200 rounds. Also, the trigger gradually began to feel much heavier, loading up toward the end of the pull.

I field strip and clean all of the visible contact surfaces (connector, cruciform, bar, etc.) after each practice, but I've never cleaned the firing pin tunnel. Guess what? After thoroughly cleaning the firing pin tunnel, the trigger has returned to its original light, smooth pull, and the light primer strikes appear to be corrected. I had only 20 rounds left for a brief test fire, so I don't know for sure. I was surprised to learn that a slightly dirty firing pin tunnel could make such a huge difference!

I also experienced what I think is an unrelated problem by installing a 13# spring. On several instances, the slide would not fully close into battery. It lacked only about 1/4 inch or less. All it needed to go into battery each time was a very gentle push on the back of the slide. I've gone back to a 15# spring, hoping that this will fix it.

I hope the problems don't reappear at my weekend match tomorrow morning!!

I'll let y'all know how it goes!

Leo

[Glockmeister reset kit]

Hi, Chris.

That's a great explanation of how the Glockmeister trigger reset works! I recently bought one. Like you, I found the pull a bit too heavy. In fact, after dry firing for a couple of sessions, the pull became heavier and even started to bind/stick. I added a few drops of oil and the pull smoothed out and reduced by a couple of pounds. Now it's almost too light!?

Ron, I'm also new to Glocks, and I find the Glockmeister tirgger reset very useful for dry fire practice. It does not perfectly replicate the feel of the normal trigger, but it's close enough to be helpful.

Regards,

Leo

[Steve Anderson's Dry Fire Drills]

Greetings, Steve & Phara.

This is my first post, after lurking for a while. I'm a newbie. After about 6 months of shooting, I recently recieved my 'D' classification in Limited 10.

Steve, I received your Dry Fire book a few days ago and have not been able to put it down. First I read it from cover to cover, and then I created an indoor dry fire "range," using scaled-down, miniture IPSC and paper plate targets, since I have only 10 feet of space to work with. In the past I did some limited dry fire practice, but I was not approaching it correctly, and not doing enough of it. Your book spells out everything that a beginner needs to know!! I've learned more from your book in the last 4 days, than in the last 6 months on my own. I've been dry firing the drills from the book very slowly for now without a timer.

I also ordered a Club Timer from BE, and I'm very eager to get his Beyond Fundamentals as part of the special deal.

Phara, I saw Steve's turn/spin technique on the video, and it's definitely not an about face! I know, since I'm retired Air Force. BTW, Steve, your Bill Drill on the video sounds like FULL AUTO!!! Waay Kool.

Steve, thanx for a GREAT book and fast response!

Flashooter