Flashooter
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Posts posted by Flashooter
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Bill-J; Stage 3; Pinman, Jtaliani --
Many thanx for the photo and to all for your helpful input!
I was totally off base what I typed before. For some reason I was thinking that from the factory it had only 2 screws and then the rear sight screw.
But in reality when I got the gun out of the safe... There are 3 screws and the rear is a dovetail (Im getting old....)
what I did was flip the sight base around backwards, because I did not like the way it overhung the barrel. So I was only using 2 screws. And to combat that I drilled a hole in the ruger logo because that is where the third hole will line up if you flip the base around.
I think it makes for a much cleaner look.
Sorry if I caused any confusion!!
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I want to mount a C-More on my new Ruger Mark III for Steel Challenge rim fire open. Does anyone know if the C-More Railway model will fit on the stock rail that comes with the Ruger Mark III? If not, what mount do I need?
Thanx!
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Then what you need is this combo:
Allchin Ruger C-More mount
C-More Slide Ride or Railway
Black Dog HMK-01 Holster
The Allchin mount will place the C-More as low as possible, unless you get one of my 90 degree laydown mounts (not available to public yet). the holster will perfectly fit a 22/45 or Mk series with the Allchin rail and the optic as long as you don't have a VQ slip on comp on the barrel. If you have a TS Pac-lite upper and their screw on comp that will fit ( Tactical Solutions sells the holster).
The holster fits a Buckmark with the Allchin rail and C-More also.
Does anyone know if the C-More railway will fit on the stock rail that comes with the Ruger Mark III? If not, what mount do I need?
Thanx!
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I have a quick skills assessment test for you guys. Think of this like a fast way to measure where your skill level currently is for USPSA shooting.
Thanx Ben!
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I recently began spraying Pam in the comp and found it does help. I'm also about to try Dillon Case Lube as suggested earlier in this thread. However, here's a link to another product (PB Blocker) I just ordered that is supposed to minimize lead buildup in the bore. I'm hoping it will also help to minimize lead build-up in the comp. I'm shooting FMJ's that very quickly build-up lead in the chambers of the comp. I'll report how the PB Blocker it works. The PB Blocker is also sold by Dillon.
PB Blocker home page: http://pbblocker.com/
PB Blocker review in Glock forum: http://theshootingbench.yuku.com/topic/1170
Well here goes,(ridicule if you want), a long time ago I read spraying the comp w/Pam or equivalent will aid in carbon removal. I sprayed mine shot a match and cleaned w/#9. Sprayed w/Pam, shot and cleaned etc... Hmmm, this is really easy to keep clean. Is it the Pam? Don't know but I have clean comps.
Comps??--Yep, got 2 G34 open guns.
If it works, keep it up right? I might just have to give this a try the next time I give my comp a good cleaning.
Joe W.
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GO GET'EM Cliff!!!!
Your Florida home-boys are rooting for you!
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One other note.. due to the shutdown of google video I have to overhaul my website. Some things may not work properly for awhile. Sorry about that.
Ben--
I'm a relative newbie, and your website has been very helpful to me. It's one of the best free resources available. Your written material combined with demo videos is easy to understand. I just watched your 'Dynamic Exit/Entry' video and a light bulb finally came on!
For some reason the importance of shooting as you exit a position and how to do it never fully registered until now; but your video and demo did it.Thanx for so graciously sharing your knowledge with the shooting community!!!
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FWIW, this firing pin does not have holes or anything cut out of it. It appears totally stock. Thanx for everybody's input!
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What really helped for me was the drill of shooting as fast as you can into a backstop while looking at the front sight. No target. I think it's part of Matt Burkett's timing drill or something. It helped with both the flinch and the blinking.
Using good hearing protection definitely helps too.
js82, yes, the Matt Burkett drill is very similar to Flexmoney's suggestion. I've only had a chance to try it a couple of times but it's helping already!!
I'm also using double ear protection. Thanx for your reply. -
Inserting "dummy rounds" will not help with a flinch. If you take a very experienced shooter and insert a dummy round in his mag you will see him push the gun when it fails to go off. This is from a conditioned response to recoil. A flinch occurs before the gun fires, not after.
Singlestack, I think you're right. The randomly inserted dummy round helped to make me aware of a flinch which occurs before the gun fires but didn't really help to correct it. The technique posted by Flexmoney in this thread is what's helping the most. Thanx for your response.
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Well that is the thinnest part of the firing pin, and it might have been stressed to the point of breaking. That looks like an awfully clean break, at least in the pictures...
Did you notice any problems before? Do you know how it happened? I'm thinking that the face was sitting on the cruciform just a little bit sideways and torqued it instead of going straight down and forward, but is that even possible?
Pro-Pain, yes, it's a very clean break. I don't know what kind of firing pin it is and it never gave any symptoms prior to the break. I have no idea what caused the break.
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Have never seen that before. Wonder if Charlie would send a replacement. Might not hurt to ask.
Thanks for sharing.
Soundwave, thanx for the tip. Charlie graciously offered a replacement but I already had one, so it was no problem. Charlie is a super guy and I still like his products!
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Oops! The file was too large. I had to reduce the file size. Here it is attached.
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Has anyone seen a firing pin break like this!? Kinda weird*#$%!?
It's a G35 with a trigger Charlie Vanek installed about 5 years ago. It's got about 5k rounds through it. I replaced it with a stock firing pin and did not notice any change in the smooth, light trigger pull; still works great!
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This thread is extremely helpful! I've been away from shooting for 5 years due to health issues. Upon recently returning to the sport I quickly developed a terrible flinch and these tips are helping me to deal with it. One tip I'd like to add is the old standby of randomly inserting inert dummy rounds among your live rounds to help curb the flinch.
My sincere thanx to Flexmoney and everyone who contributed to this thread.
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Flashooter, the piece of folded paper/card stock will be slipped in where the breechface and the rear of the barrel hood contact each other. This keeps the action slightly out of battery so the striker spring is compressed when the trigger is pulled but the striker will not be released. I've found that using a thin piece of plastic, like the material the clasp for a loaf of bread is made of, works well. Just size one so it fits into the breechface and you're in business.
RH
RangeHooligan, thanx for your detailed description, explanation and tip about the bread clasp! Even a caveman like me can understand it. I will definitely give this a try.
Thanx for your help!!
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Can't say if it's junk.
I personally have no use for any "dry fire kit".
Seriously, a little piece of paper shoved between the barrel hood and the frame works just fine for dry fire practice.
Jim
Jman & Kevin C,
I can't figure out how to position the paper. Do I place the paper between the hood and SLIDE or the hood and FRAME? Do I shove the paper with the gun assembled or do I remove the slide and barrel? I assume I cut the paper to the width of the hood, but how thick is the paper? I feel like an idiot but I can't figure it out.
Thanx in advance!
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Hello, fellow tennis elbow sufferers.
I want to offer something that seems to be helping me. After quite a bit of research, including this BE forum, I found this web site that offers a form of self-treatment: http://www.webtennis.net/tennis-elbow.htm The cost is only $27, so I'm giving it a try.
I've had severe pain in the elbow of my strong arm for the last couple of months, and it's getting worse. I shot the Florida state match last month wearing an elbow strap, but still with a fair degree of pain.
I've had to stop all shooting including dry fire.
I've been using the self-treatment method available at the web site for only two weeks, and very gradually I'm beginning to feel some relief. The thearpy consists of heat, massage, stretching, strengthening, and ice apllied in a specific manner and in a specific sequence. I bought a vibrating massager to more easily do the self-massage.The treatment is very similar to what I received from a professional physical thearapy clinic years ago for a serious automobile injury.
I'm hoping that my progress will continue, so that eventually I can return to this sport that I enjoy so much! The other alternative is surgery, but hey if it's good enough for Jerry Miculek . . .!
I'll post an update on my progress in the next couple of weeks.
Warm regards to my fellow tennis elbow sufferers!
Leo Garcia
Tampa, FL
I have this awseomely painful (in a good way) stretch for the rotator cuff that has helped me clear all the shoulder problems I've had.I'll see if I can get it written up in a way that makes sense, and post it.
BBerkley--Yes, please post it. I may want to use it as a preventive measure. Unfortunately, over-use stress injuries are a hazard of our sport especially for us senior and super senior shooters.
Regards,
Leo
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you might try taking a few hundred rounds and a timer out to the range ... set up three targets(about 7-5 yards ) and shoot each one twice including transitions ...working on cadence ...make your splits and transitions close to the same. then try relaxing your right hand after you have shot it a few times. I like about a 30% right 70% left hand grip. I thought I had a good grip until lately when I found that I could shoot .15 splits and transitions by relaxing my right hand and using my left more.
with all that PRACTICE YOU WON'T be in D LONG ! keep it up !
C38
Hey, C38 --
Your drill sounds like a good way to focus on relaxation, similar to the Bill Drill, or Matt Burkett's "Timing" drills. I'll give it a shot (pun intended). Guess what? I got my C card this month.
All the dry fire is beginning to pay off.Thanx for your response!
Leo
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Just to update my post on "prepping the mags" while loading them up for stages of fire:
Today I cracked the basepad of my STI's 170mm mag
It's a factory STI pad, apparently it's more brittle than Glock pads, Scherer pads, Arredondo pads, Caspian Hicap pads, and Taylor Freelance pads, all of which have taken the beating I put on them without breaking.
Probably shot it that way for one stage, caught it before another stage, no malfunctions. Traded the basepad from my stoker mag onto the 170 & kept on going.
Hey Eric,
Congratulations on today's overall win and on winning 3 stages. You da man!
Leo
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Hi, Kevin.
After test firing Anthony's Glock with your trigger work, I'm totally convinced of your Glock Armorer skills. Your trigger approaches the quality of my Vanek trigger!!
Eric has abandoned the Glock camp in favor of a 38 Super (how could he!?). Since you and Anthony won't be there, the Glock contingent will definitely be thin. BTW if Anthony's son receives a rattle toy it needs to be in the shape of a Glock!
See you guys soon!
Leo . . .aka the 'bad Leo
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- Then, just take some needle nose and pull the spring straight up and out. There is nothing special holding it it, just a press fit.
Flex and Eric:
I've got good news! And it's got nothing to do with the gecko.
With Fred's help and a bit of luck, I was able to remove the entire spring in one piece. It was cracked and just barely holding together. See the photo below. I'm glad that I didn't end up with one broken piece of metal embeded deep in the plastic and inaccessible. It pulled right out just like you both said.
With the new spring installed, it feels quite different. Like Eric said, it weakened so gradually that I was not aware of how loose it had become.
Looks like I'll be at Ruskin this Sunday.
Thanx, y'all!
Leo
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Flex is right about trying a slower powder this link might help you also: 165 power factor The article is about 6 years old but it still applies. Also, if you did not like the recoil with the lighter bullet you might not like ports in the barrel. Ports will make the gun shoot flatter but work the comp less and make the recoil come straight back - to a certain extent this is the same thing that using lighter bullets does. The gun shoots flatter but the recoil is snappier.
Bob,
I read and printed the article. It's a big help to this newbie!
Many thanx!
Leo
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Actually, they aren't Poppleholes unless I do them. If someone else does them they can call them anything they want except "Poppleholes".
Flex and Bob:
The explanation and photos of the Short Gun at the Brazo'a link is very informative, but it also leaves me drooling . . . .
Thanx for the link and the search suggestion!
Leo
For some reason the importance of shooting as you 
I've been using the self-treatment method available at the web site for only two weeks, and very 
All the dry fire is beginning to pay off.
My dry fire training tool
in Training Techniques
Posted
Great idea!
Do you have to cock the hammer each time you dry fire in order to use the laserlyte pro trainer?
For example, with a Glock one would have to rack the slide after each pull of the trigger. Is this correct?
Many thanx for sharing!