LGator

Sorry I didn't know this was a taboo term. I'll try to refrain from this in the future. Mark Perez, this was a limited Vickers stage. I guess I should have started with a downloaded gun. This is the kind of information I wanted to know. Thanks. For the record, this club has a realistic shoot house that is used each match. There is a 120 second par time and scoring is limited vickers count. I ran the house in about 48 seconds at the last match and most shooters can complete the house in time. So the MD knows how this stuff is susposed to work I think he just had a brainfart on the string we've been discussing. -Luther

Yes, this part of the rulebook was complied with. I'm forgot to mention that in my earlier post. When running people I'd tap them on the back to let them know time was up. This club is small and made of old IPSC shooters who are tired of doing all the legwork and getting volunteers isn't easy. The last guy was a great MD but got burnt out after 5 years. The current MD volunteered and this is what we got. I help out as much as I can, I am a CSO and help run stages, but I live 2 hours away and can only do so much. I emailed him some stage designs, as have others, but he likes things his way, kinda. I should email him some more. When running new shooters I often find myself apoligizing for a poorly designed stage. Anywho, it was a challenging stage that really made me think. I just wondered if there was a better way to do it. -Luther

Kinda; it would be draw, 6 shots, reload, switch to strong hand only and fire 6 more shots. I considered it to be an el prez w/o the turn, a long transition and a goofy reload in the middle. I thought Master IDPA el prez's were in the 8's. Either way it was above 7 seconds. Our MD likes to keep us on our toes and pushing our limits I guess. I was just happy to complete the reload. -LG

Last weekend at my local IDPA match our new MD threw us a huge curveball. The first stage had 6 targets, three on the left with about one foot between them, then a distance of about ten yards then another three targets on the right with the same spacing between them. (visual below) X_X_X____________X_X_X firing lines String one was fired at the 15yrd line. From concealment draw and engage each target with one round before end of the 7 second par time buzzer. Any shots over time were pasted. This went well for myself and most other. String three was fired from the 5yrd line. From concealment draw, switch gun to weak hand and engage the targets with one round each before the same 7 second par time. Again, this went fairly well for me, though my hits could have been much better. The second string was fired from the 10yrd line and was the real kicker. From concealment draw and engage each target, then do an IDPA legal reload (no speed reloads), then switch to strong hand only. Many people didn't even think this was possible. I think it was about the limits of human ability for this game. I figure a 1.5 second draw, .5 second transitions, 2 second reload and .5 second transitions puts you around 8.5 seconds. If you could do it faster than that you'd be able to do it in time, but that was a long gap between targets. I knew I couldn't do it in time so I gammed it to my best abilities. I did a slide down speed reload and got 7 shots fired while incuring a procedural. My Jedi-master friend skipped the reload and just switched to strong hand only. He got off 8 shots in time and incured a procedural for not doing the reload. Would there be any better ways to game this? Well, other than actually being able to do it in 7 seconds. It was a challenge and there was much whining about it throughout the day but I still did very well and had lots of fun. -Luther

Hello again. I backed the overtravel screw out a hair and from what I can tell it is working 100% now. I'll put lots of loctite on the screw when I'm sure that it is in the right spot. I'm just happy I didn't need to mess with grip safety. Thanks for the help.

Hello all. I have a series one Kimber classic target 1911 that is giving me a headache. This is my game gun for IDPA CDP and will be my limited 10 IPSC gun when I get enough free time to shoot IPSC matches. Anywho, I recently dropped in a Chip McKormic lightweight trigger and adjusted the sear spring tension for a lighter trigger pull. I've never noticed this before but everyone once in awhile the trigger "binds" up. (like one random time out of 25 shots, dry or live fire) The trigger pull is about 3lbs but when it "binds" it easily tripples that amount. Sometimes if I pull hard enough the hammer will fall, other times it won't. If I let the trigger forward and pull again the hammer will fall with the typical trigger pull. Keep in mind this is always when the trigger is fully pulled, not partially released forward from the fire position. I initially thought it was the trigger, since that was the last ( and only ) thing changed in the firing system. The rear bow of the trigger looks good, has no sharp edges and can't see what it would bind on. The next idea was that the grip safety wasn't disegaging. I put a mark on the saftey where it will allow the gun to fire and when the trigger binds I looked at the GS and it is well within the zone where it will allow the gun to fire. Oh, I did adjust the trigger for overtravel and then lock-tited the set screw in place. I thought the screw was moving on me, but this is happening to inconsistantly to be the overtravel re-adjusting itself. I don't think it ever did this with the factory composite trigger, but I didn't shoot it much that way. I guess my next step will be to reinstall that trigger even though I despise it's squishy feel. I just wonder what is going on here. Any thoughts or ideas will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. -Luther

Hello all. I was fighting with myself recently on how to afford a IDPA ESP 1911. I wanted a .38 Super from a decent name brand manufacturer. I looked at two main options. The first option was to buy a $450 Springfield Mil-Spec and then add all the stuff I wanted, like a grip safety, ambi safety, better sights, trigger job, FLGR, mag well and re-cut the front strap higher. I don't remember the exact cost total, but I think all said and done it was around $1100 for this option. Option two was to buy a new Kimber II in .38 Super and not really do anything to it. The cost of this option varied depending on what gunshop I went to but it was still around $1100. I was thinking this was the better way to go since I could just start shooting it and not have any work to do to the gun, but it meant waiting longer to save the money. Dollar wise the two were about the same. Unfortunatly I found a used series one Kimber Classic Target for $500 and I couldn't refuse to let it at the gunshop. This means I have another CDP gun (which I didn't need). I guess the moral to the story is keep shopping around, you can find some good deals if you look for them. Good luck. -LG

Hello All! I experienced the same problem with my fullsize Kimber this past weekend. I'm running a 12lb spring on top of a Cominolli buffer. The slide lock wouldn't release the slide without pushing down pretty hard. I sanded the buffer down to a thinner dimension and I could slingshot the slide again. Unfortunatly the buffer died after less than 300 rounds and chunks of it were everywhere inside the gun. I'm not sure I want to bother with one again. It does make the gun shoot slightly different, but I don't think it is worth the hassels, especially if I need to change it every 250 rounds. -LG